THE 



IORTH¥EST COAST; 



OR, 



THREE YEARS' RESIDENCE IN WASHINGTON 
TERRITORY. ,^^^ 

By JAMES G. S W A K 




WITH NUMB^-OXiS- ClTjfSiS-T B A T I O N S. 

HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 
FRANKLIN SQUARE. 

1857. 



|V« 



7^ 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand 
eight hundred and fifty-seven, by 

Harper & Brothers, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District 
of New York. 



!^-\ 



t/ 



XL 



'^c. 



1%^ 



TO 

THE HON. J. PATTON ANDERSON, 

THE FIRST UNITED STATES MARSHAL AND SECOND DELEGATE TO 
CONGRESS FROM 

WASHINGTON TERKITORY, 

01:1)10 tXlork is Uespectfullp Inscribei^ 

BY HIS FRIEND, 

JAMES a SWAN. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The intention of this volume is to give a general and 
concise account of that portion of the Northwest Coast 
lying between the Straits of Fuca and the Columbia 
River — a region which has never attracted the explorers 
and navigators of the Northwest, since the times of 
Meares and Vancouver, sufficiently for them to give it 
more than a passing remark. 

The fine bay north of the Columbia (Shoal- water Bay), 
which was discovered and named by Meares in 1789, 
and surveyed by Lieutenant Alden, of the United States 
Coast Survey, in 1852, was actually passed through by 
the boats of Wilkes's Exploring Expedition, who merely 
mentions the fact, without considering the bay of suffi- 
cient importance either to give it a passing notice or 
even place it on his chart. 

At the present time, when every thing relating to the 
Northwest frontier is looked upon with interest, and par- 
ticularly the country around the Columbia Eiver, Gray's 
Harbor, and Puget Sound, it was thought that some later 
information than can be found in the works of Ross Cox, 
Lewis and Clarke, and Irving, would be acceptable, both 
to those persons desirous of emigration to the region west 
of the Rocky Mountains, as well as those who already 
have friends in the Territory. 



VI INTRODUCTION. 

To make the work of interest to the general reader, I 
liave been obliged, while endeavoring to bring forward 
each subject worthy of interest, to condense and confine 
myself within certain limits, so as not to elaborate too 
much any one topic. 

I have, so far as possible, only related such circum- 
stances as have come under my immediate observation ; 
and, whenever I have been obliged to deviate from this 
rule, I have invariably given credit to the proper source, 
and have been particularly careful to endeavor to be ac- 
curate as to date in matters of historical information, nar- 
rating all facts, whether as regards my own personal ad- 
ventures, or tales of the Indians, or anecdotes of the set- 
tlers, in a simple manner, and in the order of their oc- 
currence ; consequently, most of the narrative will be 
confined to the immediate Pacific coast, and to descrip- 
tions of Shoal-water Bay during my residence of three 
years. 

In all matters relating to the Indians, I only give an 
account of those I have lived with^ the Chenooks, Che- 
halis, and one or two tribes north of Gray's Harbor. 

Having lost a valuable collection of notes, made dur- 
ing my residence among the Coast tribes, I am unable to 
give the interesting legends and mythological tales I 
should have done, and which might have been of interest 
to many persons ; still, enough has been written to give 
a general idea of facts concerning the Indians of the Bay 
which have not before been mentioned, with vocabularies 
of their language and specimens of their music. 

I take this opportunity to acknowledge my obliga- 
tions to the Hon. J. Patton Anderson, Delegate to Con- 
gress from Washington Territory ; Henry R. Schoolcraft, 
LL.D., of Washington City; J. Carson Brevoort, Esq., 



INTRODUCTION. VU 

and Professor W. Gib"bs, of New York ; John M'Mullen, 
Esq., Librarian of New York Society Library ; Dr. J. G. 
Cogswell, Librarian of the Astor Library, and Mr. Poole, 
Librarian of the Boston Athenaeum ; also, Hon. William 
Sturgis, and William Tufts, Esq., of Boston, for valuable 
information, and assistance in enabling me to refer to 
such works of history, voyages, or statistics as were nec- 
essary while writing. 

A2 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Voyage from San Erancisco to Shoal-water Bay. — Brig Oriental. — 
Passengers on board the Brig. — Ship a heavy Sea. — Mouth of the 
Columbia. — Quantities of Drift-wood. — Cross the Bar at Shoal-water 
Bay.— Heavy Sea Page 17 

CHAPTER n. 
Discovery of Shoal-water Bay by Meares in 1788. — His Description of 
* it. — Indians come out of the Bay in a Canoe. — Thick Fog. — Meares's 

Long-boat Expedition to the Bay. — Attack by Indians. — Vancou- 
' ver's Description. — Alden's Survey. — First Settlers. — Description of 

Shoal-water Bay... : 20 

CHAPTER m. 

Hussell's House. — Description of Toke and Suis. — Russell tells the In- 
dians I am a Doctor. — Style of Medicine. — Salmon Fishing on the 
Palux. — Old Cartumhays. — Our Reception at his Lodge. — Camp on 
the Palux. — Duck Shooting. — Great Quantities of Salmon. — Falls of 
the Palux. — The Devil's Walking-stick. — Singular Superstition of 
the Indians 33 

CHAPTER IV. "^ 
Wreck of the Willemantic. — Joe the Steward and his curry Stews.— 
Climate of the Pacific. — Causes of the Mildness of Temperature. — 
Quantities of Rain. — Early Spring. — Method of learning the Indian 
Language. — Captain Purrington clearing Land. — Immense Trees. — 
Indians' Small-pox. — Indians die. — Russell sick. — Tomhays sick. — 
Queaquim dies. — ^Solemn Scene 43 

CHAPTER V. 

Arrival of Indians from the North. — Description of the Oysters and 
Oyster-fishers of Shoal-water Bay. — Hospitality of early Settlers. — 
Joel L. Brown. — Captain Weldon. — Winter in Oregon 59 

CHAPTER VI. 

Stony Point. — Visit of Walter and myself to the Memeipse TilUcums, or 
Dead People. — ^Basaltic Boulders. — Indian Tradition respecting them. 



X CONTENTS. 

— ^Legend of the Doctor and his Brother. — The Giants build a great 
Fire to heat Stones. — They boil out the Bay. — The Doctor finds his 
Brother in a Fish's Belly. — Bear-hunt on Stony Point. — Bartlett kiUs 
the Bear. — Method of burying the Dead. — We find a Mummy. — Rus- 
sell sends the Mummy to San Francisco. — Opinions of scientific Per- 
sons respecting the Mummy. — An instance of another Body being 
preserved. — I get capsized at Stony Point. — -Take a Claim on the 
Querquelin River. — Description of the Claim and our mode of Liv- 
ing. — Method of Canoe-making. — Seal-catching. — Method of catch- 
ing Fish. — Indian Food. — Description of the Roots and Berries. — Sea 
Otter. — ^River Otter. — Beaver. — Furs Page 67 

CHAPTER Vn. 

Visit to the Columbia River. — Our Troubles vs^hile crossing the Port- 
age. — Description of the Beach around Baker's Bay to Chenook. — 
Scarborough's Hill. — Captain Scarborough. — The Priest's House at 
Chenook. — Bill M'Carty or Brandywine. — Salmon-fishing at Che- 

^ nook. — Splendid View of Mount Saint Helen's. — Description of the 
' Salmon and of the Fishery. — Indian Customs on the first Appear- 
ance of Salmon. — The present Remnant of the Chenook Tribe. — 
Description of Chenook Village. — Its favorable Location. — "Washing- 
ton Hall, Esq., the Postmaster. — Indian Lodges. — A Description of 
the method of building them. — Our Return home, and the funny 
Scenes we passed through. — Old Champ and his Fish 97* 

CHAPTER Vm. 

The Country of the Columbia.— Discovery of the Columbia. — Gray's 
Harbor. — The Coast north of the Columbia. — Fuca Strait. — Puget 
Sound. — Geographical Errors in naming Places. — Excellent Harbors. 
— Mount Olympus.— Separation of Washington from Oregon.— The 
Columbia and its Tributaries. — The Dalles.— Wappatoo Island. — 
Heceta's Voyage.— Attack by Savages.— Point Grenville and De- 
struction Island.— River St. Roc— Vancouver.— Sloop Washington 
and Ship Columbia. — Captain Gray. — Lieutenant Broughton and the 
Brig Chatham.— Account of the Outfit of the Ship Columbia in 1787. 
— Captain John Kendrick.— Gray discovers the Columbia.— Building 
of the Adventure at Clyoquot 117 

CHAPTER IX. 
The Oystermen celebrate the 4th of July.— A Speech and a great Bon- 
fire.— Arrival of Emigrants.— Colonel H. K. Stevens.— Fishing-party 
on the Nasal River.— We go up the River to an Indian Camp.— Meth- 
od of catching Salmon.— We catch rotten Logs.— The Colonel falls 
overboard.- A Chase after a Salmon.— Indian Style of catching 
Trout. — Thei«Medicine to allure Fish.— Immense Quantities of Sal- 
mon in Shoal-water Bay.— Wreck of Brig Palos.— Description of my 



CONTENTS. XI 

House.— High Tides.— Quantities of Wild-fowl.— A Gale of Wind, 

Heavy Kain. — The Gale increases, and blows down our Chimney. 

— Damage done by the Storm.— Narrow Escape from being killed by 
a falling Precipice.— Arrival of Indians.— Pepper Coffee.— Ludicrous 
Plight of the Natives.— Their Superstition.— They try to shoot a 
Ghost.— They are scared by a Pumpkin Lantern.— Poisoning Crows. 
— Method of preserving Cabbages from the Indians.., Page 133 

CHAPTEE X. 

Old Suis relates about the Indians of the Bay. — A Description of the 
Coast Indians. — Writers apt to confuse the Reader in Accounts of 
Indians.— General Appearance.— Dress of Women.— Dress of Men. 
— Smoking. — Fondness for Ardent Spirits. — ^Whom they received the 
first from.— Gambling.— A Description of gambling Games.— Orna- 
ments. — Description of the Howqua or Wampum. — Method of ob- 
taining the Shells. — Evidences of Wealth. — Great Weight of Ear Or- 
naments. — Position of Females among the Coast Tribes. — Duties of 
Women. — Various Manufactures. — Lodge Furniture. — Ancient 
Method of Cooking. — Bread-making. — Peter's Method of making 
Bread. — Time of Eating. — Slaves. — Fondness of Indians for their 
Children.— Method of flattening the Head. — Flat Head a mark of 
Aristocracy. — Reception of Strangers. — Reception of Friends. — Sin- 
gular Custom. — Great Newsmongers. — Polygamy. — Customs toward 
•young Girls.— Singular Superstition.— Fasts. — Religion.— Heathen- 
ism 151 

CHAPTER XI. 

Doctors, or Medicine-men. — Simples used as Medicine. — Polypodium. 
— ^Wild-cat Hair. — An excellent Salve. — Disinclination of Indians to 
impart Information in regard to their Medicines. — Necromancy of 
the Doctors. — Sickness of Suis. — Sacodlye, the Doctor, and his Mag- 
ic. — Old John, the Doctor, and his Method. — John removes the 
Devil and Suis recovers. — Old Sal-tsi-mar's Sickness and Death. — 
Description of the Burial, — Funeral Ceremonies. — Death Songs. — 
Change of Names on the Death of a Friend. — Meaning of Indian 
Names. — Superstitions and Ceremonies. — Effects of Christianity. — 
Missionaries. — The Indian Idea of the Christian Religion 176 

CHAPTER XIL 

Amusements. — Games. — Children's Amusements.^— Imitate the Priest. 
— Readily learn Needle-work. — Fond of Singing. — Songs. — History 
of the Chenooks and Chehalis. — Difficulty of understanding the Le- 
gends. — Creation of Man. — Origin of. Coast Tribes. — Evidences of 
Emigration. — Tradition of a Junk wrecked at Clatsop Beach. — Bees- 
wax found on the Beach. — Remarks on the various Theories respect- 



Xll CONTENTS. 

ing the Origin of the Indians. — Lewis and Clarke's Names of Tribes. 
— The correct Names of the Tribes. — ^Former Tribes of Shoal-water 
Bay. — Evidences of great Mortality among the Coast Tribes. — The 
reeling of the Indians respecting the Dead.— Meares's Account of 
the Nootkans being Cannibals. — Vancouver doubts the Truth of 
Meares. — Indian Dread of Skulls. — Anecdote respecting their 
Fears Page 197 

CHAPTER Xni. 

Trip to San Francisco* — Captain Smith and his Goggles. — ^We get near- 
ly wrecked by reason of the Fog on Captain Smith's " Specks." — Ar- 
rive safe at last. — Return to the Columbia in Steamer Peytona. — 
Port Orford. — Captain Tichenor. — Cedar of Port Orford. — Mouth of 
the Columbia. — Not so terrible as generally represented. — Arrival at 
Astoria. — History of Astoria. — Captain Smith, of the Ship Albatross. 
— John Jacob Astor. — Ship Tonquin, Captain Thorne. — Ship Beaver, 
Captain Sowles. — Ross Cox's Description of Astoria. — Loss of the 
Tonquin. — Ship Lark. — Astoria sold to the Northwest Company. — 
The Raccoon Sloop-of-war. — Brig Peddler. — Ship Isaac Todd and her 
Passengers. — First white Woman. — Death of Mr. M'Tavish. — Resto- 
ration of Astoria to the Americans. — H. B. M. Frigate Blossom sa- 
lutes the Flag. — Various Expeditions, &c. — First Emigration. — Jes- 
uits. — ^Present Appearance of Astoria. — Military Road, &c 215 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Cross the Columbia to Chenook. — Meet Fiddler Smith. — ^We start for 
Shoal-water Bay with Captain Johnson. — Johnson falls overboard. 
— John Edmands. — Ox-team Express. — Get stuck in the Swamp. — 
Captain Nichols and his Whale-boat. — The Fiddler and myself take 
Passage. — Safe Arrival. — Another Start for Astoria. — Detention by 
Storm. — General Adair, of Astoria. — Canoe Adventure with Peter. — 
Sturgeon-fishing. — Salleel and his Sturgeons' Heads. — Johnson's 
Lake. — A hard Walk. — Toke in the Mud. — Brook Navigation. — In- 
dian Method of making Fire. — Rate of Speed home. — Strawberry 
Expedition 239 

CHAPTER XV. 

Visit to the Queniiilt Indians with Winant and Roberts. — Cross the Bay 
and camp with the Indians. — Carcowan and Tleyuk. — Trouble on 
starting. — Arrival at Gray's Harbor. — Armstrong's Point. — Difiiculty 
with Caslahhan. — Sam fires at Caslahhan. — A Settlement. — Swarms 
of Fleas.— Our Camp. — We proceed up the Beach. — Adventure with 
a Bear.— Reach the Copalis River.— Wreck of the Steamer General 
Warren. — The Current north of the Columbia. — Appearance of the 
Coast. — Point Grenville. — Arrive at Queniult. — Peculiar Variety of 
Salmon. — Indian Tricks. — I am taken sick. — Old Carcowan wishes 



CONTENTS. Xlll 

\ to have me killed. — Description of the Queniults. — Start for Shoal- 
water Bay. — Indian Hospitality. — Bird Feast at Point Grenville. — 
Style of Cooking. — Heavy Surf and a Capsize. — We proceed through 
the Breakers. — Arrive at Gray's Harbor. — A Feast. — Fine View. — 
Eeach Home Page 250 

CHAPTEE XVI. 

Arrival of Winant and Roberts. — An Election. — Our first Justice, 
Squire Ch^np. — Big Charley. — First Court in the Bay. — Constable 
Charley makes an Arrest. — A Trial, and a celebrated Verdict. — 
Another Arrest and Trial. — Joe locked up in a Hen-house. — First 
Vessel built in the Bay. — Bruce Company. — Uncle Ned. — Captain 
John Morgan. — Monument of Oyster Shells to Russell. — Hay-e-mar. 
— A Trip up the Whil-a-pah for Salmon. — Walter's Point. — Sam 
Woodward's Claim. — Roaring Bill. — Ancient Mariners. — Old Chille- 
wit. — Night Fishing. — Lively Time. — Start for Home. — Shoot a 
Lynx. — Otter Shooting. — Charley sees tlie Memelose or dead Folks. 
— Singular Occurrence. — We get rid of Charley. — First Trail from 
the Cowlitz. — Lime-kiln for burning Shells 277 

CHAPTER XVH. 

County Line. — Jury Duty. — United States Court at Chenook. — The 
Court-house. — Grand Jury. — Trial of Lamley for killing an Indian. 
— Grand Jury Room very Fishy. — Witnesses. — Captain Johnson. — 
His funny Address to the Court. — He throws himself on the Mercy 
of the Court. — Captain Scarborough. — Bill Martindill. — The Cap- 
tain's Advice to Bill. — The District Attorney and his Address. — ■ 
The Counsel for the Defense quotes from the " Arabian Nights." — 
He gains the Case. — Captain Johnson's Vinegar Speculation. — 
Johnson's Death. — Death of Captain Scarborough. — Fidelity of an 
Indian Squaw. — Return home. — Sharp Work in a Canoe. — Adven- 
ture with Caslahhan 292 

CHAPTER XVm. 

Language of the Indians. — The Jargon. — Different Methods of spelling 
Words by Writers. — Difficulty of rightly understanding the Jargon. 
— How a Language can be formed. — Origin of the Indian Language. 
— Remarks of Mr. Squier. — Irish-sounding Words in the Chehalis 
Tongue. — An amusing Parable. — Views of Mr. Duponceau. — Re- 
marks of Gliddon. — Resemblance between Chehalis and Aztec 
Words. — ^Facts relative of Indian Journeys south. — Mrs. Ducheney's 
Narrative. — Difiiculty of Indians in pronouncing certain Letters. — 
Cause of the chuckling Sound of the Northwest Languages. — Per- 
sons apt to misunderstand Indian Words. — Dislike of Indians to 
learn English. — Winter Amusements. — Tomhays and the Geese. — 
Arrival of Settlers. — Doctor Johnson. — The Doctor and myself act 



XIV CONTENTS. 

as Lawyers in Champ's Court. — Strong Medicine. — ^Kohpoh mistaken 
for a 'Coon. — Visit of the Klickatats. — Christmas Dinner on Crow. — 
Baked Skunk. — Fisherman's Pudding Page 306 

CHAPTER XIX. 
Indian Treaties. — Invitation to be present at a Treaty on the Chehalis 
River. — Journey to the Chehalis. — Various Adventures. — We reach 
the River and encamp. — A lively Scene going up to the Treaty-ground. 
— Description of the Encampment. — Governor Stev6ns. — Whites 
present. — Indians. — Uniform of the Governor. — Colonel Simmons. — 
Story-telling. — The Governor backs up my Stories. — Judge Ford. — 
Commissary Cushman. — The Treaty. — Indians will not agree to it. — 
Number of Indians in the Coast Tribes. — Tleyuk. — Governor takes 
away Tleyuk's "Paper." — Indians have no Faith in the Americans. — 
The Conduct of the Hudson Bay Company contrasted with that of 
the Americans. — We start for Home and encounter a Storm. — Che- 
halis River. — Adventures on our Journey home. — Colonel Anderson's 
Adventures 327 

CHAPTER XX. 

The Whale.— Toke in the Whale's Belly.— Blubber Feast.— Doctor 
Johnson and myself as Counsel. — Higher Law. — Champ's Decision. 
— Loss of Schooner Empire. — Captain Davis. — Captain Eben P. Ba- 
ker.— M'Carty's Child among the Indians. — Her Rescue. — Feelings 
of the Indians toward Whites. — Remarks on the Indian Character. — 
They can live peaceably with Whites. — Course adopted by the Hud- 
son Bay Company toward Indians. — Suggestions about a System of 
Sub-agencies.— Correct Views of the Hudson Bay Company respect- 
ing Indians.— The Conduct of the Company toward Americans. — 
They do not wish Americans among them.— History of the Hudson 
Bay Company and their Proceedings toward Americans. — Cause of 
the Outbreak among the Indians.— Gold Mines.— General Palmer.— 
General Wool.— Remarks, &c 360 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Description of Washington Territory.— Face of the Country.— Mount- 
ains, Minerals, Rivers, Bays, and Lakes.— Objects of Interest to the 
Tourist.— Falls of the Snoqualmie.— Colonel Anderson's Description. 
—Anecdote of Patkanim.— He forms an Alliance with Colonel Mike 
Simmons.— Constructive Presence of Colonel Simmons at a Fight.— 
Productions of the Territory.— Governor Stevens's Remarks.— North- 
em Pacific Rail-road.— Military Roads.— Public Spirit.— Appropria- 
tions by Congress.— Judge Lancaster.— Population.— Advantages to 
Emigrants.— Whale Fishery.— Russian Trade.— Amoor River.— Van- 
couver's Views on Climate.— Winter of 1806 in Latitude 56° North.— 
Salmon, 1807.— Closing Remarks.— Letter from Colonel Anderson. 
— Advice to Emigrants 392 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



1. Map of the Western Part of Washington Territory, compiled by the 
Author from the U. S. Coast Survey Charts, and from the Map of the 
Surveyor General at Washington. 

2. Frontispiece. An Encampment of Lieutenant Peter Puget, while 
making his Exploration of Puget Sound. From an original Sketch by 
John Sykes, one of Vancouver's Draughtsmen. 

3. Vignette on Title-page. Territorial Seal. The Motto, Al-ki, is an 
Indian word, meaning hereafter, or by-and-by. 

4. C. J. W. Russell's House and Indian Lodge. From an original 
Sketch by the Author Page 32 

5. Camp on the Palux. From an original Sketch by the Author 37 

6. Indian Implements. " " " " "39 
7 and 8. Flowers. These are drawn one third their natural size 47, 48 

9. Forests in Oregon 52 

10. Oystennen waiting for the Tide ^ 61 

11. Bear-fight on Stony Point. Sketch by Author 71 

12. Querquelin River, and Residence of J. G. Swan. Sketch by 
Author. Toke's Lodge on the right of the Cut 75 

13 and 14. Canoes. From the Original in Possession of the Author. 
The Head or Bows of all these Canoes are to the left hand on the 
Cuts 79, 80 

15. Otter Hunt 93 

16. Salmon Fishing at Chenook. Sketch by Author 106 

17. Medal of Ship Columbia 131 

18. Indian Cradle. The Child in this Cut is elevated from the cra- 
dle, so as to show the method of compressing the Head, which would 
not be seen in its real Position, where nothing of the Infant is visible 
but its Face 163 

19. Method of Burial. Sketch by Author 187 

20. Port Orford Rock 218 

21. Fight on Battle Rock 221 

22. Queniult Village. Sketch by Author 262 

23. Point Grem-ille. " " " 269 

24. Inside of Indian Lodge. " " 331 

25. Camp on the Treaty Ground. Sketch by Author 336 

26. Outside of Indian Lodge. " " " 339 

27. Blubber Feast 361 

28. Medal of Lewis and Clarke 407 



^asiimgioii ana Oregon xerntories. 
I found, on joining the brig, that there were several 



THE NORTHWEST COAST, &c. 



CHAPTER I. 

Voyage from San Francisco to Shoal-water Bay. — Brig Oriental. — 
Passengers on board the Brig. — Ship a heavy Sea. — Mouth of the 
Columbia. — Quantities of Drift-wood. — Cross the Bar at Shoal-water 
Bay. — Heavy Sea. 

During the fall of 1852, having received an invitation 
from my friend, Mr. Charles J. W. Eussell, of Shoal- 
water Bay, to make him a visit, I determined to accept 
his kind offer, and accordingly secured a passage on 
hoard the brig Oriental, Captain Hill, which was bound 
up the Bay for a cargo of piles and spruce timber. I 
had always, from my earliest recollections, a strong de- 
sire to see the great Eiver Columbia, and to learn some- 
thing of the habits and customs of the tribes of the 
Northwest. This desire had been increased by the visit 
of a chief of the Clalam tribe of Indians from Puget 
Sound, who arrived at San Francisco, where I was then 
residing, and who received a great deal of attention firom 
me during his visit of two or three weeks. 

This chief, whose name was Chetzamokha, and who 
is known by the whites as the Duke of York, was very 
urgent to have me visit his people. Subsequently, on 
his return home, he sent me a present of a beautiful ca- 
noe, and a bag containing a quantity of cornelians, which 
are found along the shores of the bays and rivers of 
Washington and Oregon Territories. 

I found, on joining the brig, that there were several 



18 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

passengers bound to the Bay, and I concluded, as they 
were all captains of vessels, we should have a very pleas- 
ant time. There was Captain Hill, the master, Captain 
Pratt, the mate, and Captain Baker, Captain Weldon, 
Captain Swain, Captain Eussell, and myself for passen- 
gers. I believe, with the exception of myself and the 
cook, who was called Doctor, every one on board the brig 
had held some office. I was the only one addressed as 
Mister, and, as Captain Baker remarked, it was quite re- 
freshing to have one person on board without a title. 

We left the harbor of San Francisco about noon on 
the 20th of November, and the old brig being very light, 
we were tumbled about in a lively manner while cross- 
ing the bar, where there was a tremendous swell running 
in from the southwest. However, we suffered no dam- 
age, and soon found ourselves on our course with a fair 
wind. We continued on in this manner for three days, 
without any thing occurring of interest, and the monot- 
ony of the scene only broken by the stories of the com- 
pany of captains, who, sailor-like, never let slip an op- 
portunity of relating a jest or an anecdote. On the 
fourth day, being in the latitude of the Columbia River, 
the wind came out ahead, and blew with violence from 
the northwest. This soon raised a heavy sea, and the 
brig could make but little progress. On the evening 
of the 24th, while standing by the cabin table with the 
captain, looking over the chart, we shipped a sea which 
stove in the window of the cabin (which looked out on 
deck), knocked me clear over the table, drenched the cap- 
tain, put out the lights, and set the whole cabin afloat. 

The other passengers had turned into their berths, 
where they lay telling stories, and they were most in- 
tensely delighted with the adventure. The steward soon 
came, who lighted the lamp, swabbed up the floor, and 
set us to rights. The next morning we found ourselves 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 19 

about thirty miles to the westward of the Columbia Riv- 
er, from which a huge volume of water was running, car- 
rying in its course great quantities of drift-logs, boards, 
chips, and saw-dust, with which the whole water around 
us was covered. During the freshets in this river, the 
force of the current of fresh water discharged from it is 
sufficient to discolor the ocean for sixty miles from the 
coast. 

The wind continuing to blow from the northwest, we 
beat about till the 28th, when, running in-shore, we made 
Cape Shoal- water, the northern point at the entrance to 
Shoal-water Bay. A heavy sea was breaking on the 
bar, and no opening presented itself to us. Russell, who 
was acting pilot, felt afraid to venture, and wished to 
stand off; but, by the time he had made up his mind, 
we had neared the entrance, so that it was impossible for 
us to turn to windward, and the only alternative was to 
go ashore or go into the harbor. 

Every man was stationed at his post — Captain Hill 
and one man at the wheel. Captains Swain and Russell 
on the fore-yard, looking out. Captain Weldon heaving 
the lead, the sailors at the braces, and Captain Baker 
and myself watching to see the fun. The breakers were 
very high, and foamed, and roared, and dashed around 
us in the most terrific manner ; but the old brig was as 
light on them as a gull, and, without shipping a drop of 
water, passed over and through them all ; and after run- 
ning up the channel about two miles, we came to an- 
chor in smooth water, and found ourselves safe and sound 
in Shoal-water Bay. 



20 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 



CHAPTER 11. 

Discovery of Shoal-water Bay by Meares in 1788.— His Description of 
it. — Indians come out of the Bay in a Canoe. — Thick Fog. — Meares's 
Long-boat Expedition to the Bay. — Attack by Indians. — Vancou- 
ver's Description.— Alden's Survey.— First Settlers.— Description of 
Shoal-water Bay. 

Shoal-water Bat lies north of the Columbia Eiver, 
between Capes Shoal-water and Disappointment. Cape 
Disappointment is in latitude 46° 16^ north, and longi- 
tude 124° 01' west from Greenwich. And Toke's Point, 
or the extreme northwest point of Cape Shoal-water, 
and the northern shore at the entrance of Shoal-water 
Bay, is in latitude 46° 43^ north, and longitude 124° 02" 
west, making the distance from the entrance of the Co- 
lumbia Eiver to that of Shoal-water Bay twenty-seven 
miles. 

Cape Shoal-water and Shoal-water Bay were discov- 
ered by Lieutenant John Meares, commanding the East 
India Company's Ship Felice, of London, on Saturday, 
July 5th, 1788. Meares, who had been to Nootka, and 
other trading-posts north, for the purpose of collecting 
furs, had left a part of his company to build a small 
schooner, and was proceeding to the south to explore the 
great river discovered by the Spanish navigator Heceta 
on the 15th of August, 1775, and named by him Rio de 
San Roque, or River of St. Roc, and which was after- 
ward entered by Captain Robert Gray, in the ship Co- 
lumbia, of Boston, in 1792, and named by him the Co^ 
lumhia, Meares writes, "At noon our latitude was 
47° 01' north, and the lofty mountains seen the preceding 
day bore east-northeast distant seven leagues. Our dis- 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 21 

tance might be four leagues from the shore, which ap- 
peared to run in the direction of east-southeast and west- 
northwest, and there appeared to be a large sound or open- 
ing in that direction. By two o'clock we were within two 
miles of the shore, along which we sailed, which ap- 
peared to be a perfect forest, without the vestige of a 
habitation. The land was low and flat, and our sound- 
ings were from fifteen to twenty fathoms, over a hard 
sand. As we were steering for the low point which 
formed part of the entrance into the bay or sound, we 
shoaled our water gradually to six fathoms, when break- 
ers were seen to extend quite across it, so that it ap- 
peared to be quite inaccessible to ships. We immedi- 
ately hauled off the shore till we deepened our water to 
sixteen fathoms. 

" This point obtained the name of Low Point (now 
Leadbetter Point), and the bay that of Shoal-water Bay, 
and a headland that was high and bluff, which formed 
the other entrance, was also named Cape Shoal-water, 
The latitude of the headland we judged to be 46° 47^ 
north, and the longitude 23/)° IV east of Greenwich." 
(Vancouver makes the latitude of Cape Shoal-water 46° 
40^ north, and longitude 236° east, while Captain Al- 
den, of the United States Coast Survey, makes the lati- 
tude 46° 43^ minutes north, a mean which is most prob- 
able to be correct.) " The distance from Low Point to 
Cape Shoal-water was too great to admit of an observa- 
tion in our present situation. The shoals still appeared 
to run from shore to shore, but when about midway we 
bore up near them in order to discover if there be not a 
channel near the cape. We accordingly steered for the 
mouth of the bay, when we shoaled our water to eight 
fathoms. At this time the breakers were not more than 
three miles from us, when it was thought prudent to 
again haul off. From the mast-head it was observed 



22 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

that this hay extended a considerable way inland, spread- 
ing into several arms or branches to the northward and 
eastward. The back of it was bounded by high and 
mountainous land, which was at a great distance from us. 

"A narrow entrance appeared to the northwest, but it 
was too remote for us to discover, even with our glasses, 
whether it was a river or low land. We had concluded 
this wild and desolate shore was uninhabited ; but this 
opinion proved to be erroneous, for a canoe now came 
off to us from the point with a man and a boy. On 
their approach to the ship they held up two sea-otter 
skins ; we therefore hove to, when they came alongside 
and took hold of a rope, but could not be persuaded to 
come on board. We then fastened several trifling arti- 
cles to a cord, and threw them over the side of the ship, 
when they were instantly seized by the boy and deliver- 
ed by him to the man, who did not hesitate a moment to 
tie the otter skins to the cord, and waved his hand as a 
sign for us to take them on board, which was according- 
ly done, and an additional present conveyed to him in 
the same manner as the former. 

" These strangers appeared to be highly delighted 
with their unexpected treasure, and seemed at first to be 
wholly absorbed in their attention to the articles which 
composed it. But then their curiosity was in a short 
time entirely transferred to the ship, and their eyes ran 
over every part of it with a most rapid transition, while 
their actions expressed such extreme delight as gave us 
every reason to conclude that this was the first time they 
had ever been gratified with the sight of such an ob- 
ject. * * * * During the time we had been lying 
to for these natives, the ship had drifted bodily down to 
the shoals, which obliged us to make sail, when the ca- 
noe paddled into the Bay. 

" It was our wish to have sent the long-boat to sound 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 23 

near the shoals, in order to discover if there was any 
channel, but the weather was so cloudy, and. altogether 
had so unsettled an appearance, that we were discour- 
aged from executing such a design. Nothing, therefore, 
was left to us but to coast it along the shore and endeavor 
to find some place where the ship might be brought to a 
secure anchorage. 

" On the morning of the sixth, the wind blew firom the 
north, with a strong, heavy sea. At half past ten, being 
within three leagues of Cape Shoal-water, we had a per- 
fect view of it, and with the glasses we traced the line 
of coast to the southward, which presented no opening 
that promised any thing like a harbor. A high, bluff 
promontory bore off us southeast at the distance of only 
four leagues, for which we steered to double, with the 
hope that between it and Cape Shoal-water we should 
find some sort of a harbor. 

" We gave the name of Cape Disappointment to the 
promontory." 

Meares having failed to discover the Columbia, or, as 
it was then called by Heceta, the San Roque, steered for 
the north, and entered Fuca Straits, and being anxious 
to procure some farther information and knowledge of 
the people of Shoal-water Bay, he fitted out his long- 
boat, and manned her with thirteen of his men, with pro- 
visions for one month, intending to send her down to 
the Bay ; but the boat was attacked while in the strait 
by the Indians, and the project abandoned. 

Vancouver writes that in 1792, "after leaving Cape 
Disappointment, we made Cape Shoal-water, and en- 
deavored to enter Shoal-water Bay ; but considering, 
from the appearance of the breakers, that the harbor was 
inaccessible to the ship, and having a fair wind, we sailed 
on to the northward." 

Although Shoal-water Bay is laid down on the charts 



24 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

of Captain Cook and Captain Meares, in a pubKcation 
November 18, 1790, bj J. Walter, No. 169 Piccadilly, 
London, on which the mouth of the Columbia is laid 
down as Deception Bay, yet it is not laid down on any 
subsequent publication till since the survey of Captain 
Alden in 1852. The probable reason is that Meares, 
having failed to discover the great river San Boque, or 
Oregon, concluded that it found its passage to the Pacific 
Ocean through Fuca Straits, and has so laid it down 
on his map ; and the subsequent discovery by Captain 
Gray proving the inaccuracy of Meares's chart, it was 
thrown aside altogether, and his account of Shoal-water 
Bay considered fabulous. 

In 1852, Lieutenant Commanding James Alden, in 
the United States surveying steamer Active, made a re- 
connaissance of Shoal-water Bay, and on October 4th of 
the same year, in a letter to the superintendent of the 
coast survey, he writes : " We have made a reconnais- 
sance of the entrance to Shoal-water Bay, and all the 
northern portion of it, comprising an area of about one 
hundred square miles. The remainder, which we were 
prevented from examining for want of time, is a broad 
sheet of water, from four to five miles wide, extending in 
a southerly direction to within four miles of Baker's Bay, 
Columbia River, and is shut out from the sea by a nar- 
row peninsula, which commences just behind Cape Dis- 
appointment, and runs due north some twenty-five miles, 
forming at its terminus the south point of the entrance. 
It is fuU of shoals, as its name implies, but there is plen- 
ty of water among them, and they are generally bare at 
low water. They are easily found, and quite accessible. 
The land is well timbered, and I suppose there is plenty 
of it sufficiently good for agricultural purposes. At 
present there are no whites in the Bay, except a few 
who are employed in collecting oysters for the Califor- 
nia market." 



THREE YEAKS AT SHOAL-WATEK BAY. 25 

The next morning after our arrival I went ashore with 
the rest of the passengers to tlie house of ISir, Russell, 
with whom I intended to remain for a short time. I 
found a few other settlers in the Bay, who were located 
there (as was also Mr. Eussell) for the purpose of pro- 
curing oysters for the market of San Francisco. It 
was during the year 1851 that the first oysters were in- 
troduced into the San Francisco market by Mr. RusseU, 
who was then engaged in trade at Pacific City, at the 
mouth of the Columbia River, and who carried them 
down in the steamer from Astoria. Sometime in the fall 
of the same year Captain Fieldsted entered the Bay in a 
schooner and obtained the first load of oysters ever taken 
to San Francisco. 

A few settlers then came at intervals to locate them- 
selves ; and on my arrival there were the following indi- 
viduals, who constituted the only white inhabitants of 
the region, viz., Charles J. W. Russell, Mark Winant, 
John Morgan, Alexander Hanson, Richard J. Milward, 
Thos. Foster, George Gr. Bartlett, Richard Hillyer, John 
W. Champ, Samuel Sweeney, Stephen Marshall, Charles 
W. Denter, A. E. St. John, and Walter Lynde. 

There were also a few persons engaged in cutting 
timber on the banks of one of the streams emptying into 
the northeast part of the Bay, and who had engaged to 
load the brig with piles for the San Francisco market. 
Their names were Brown, Dousett, Simonds, Chatwick, 
and Tothill, but they all left in a few months. 

While the brig was taking in her cargo, I went with 
Mr. Russell to examine the Bay. I found it to be, as 
Captain Alden has described it, a broad sheet of water, 
fuU of shoals, through which the different rivers running 
into it have worn deep channels, where, at all times of 
tide, there is a good anchorage and plenty of water. The 
principal river is the Whil-a-pah, a fine stream empty- 

B 



26 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

ing into the Bay at its northeast corner. This river, to- 
gether with the Necomanchee or Nickomin, and two or 
three small creeks running into the north end of the Bay, 
have formed a fine beaten channel, which is known as the 
North Channel, and is the principal entrance to the Bay 
at present used by the vessels trading there. Farther to 
the south, the Palux or Copalux Kiver runs through the 
shoals, and joins the North Channel near the entrance to 
the harbor. About fifteen miles south of the Palux the 
Marhoo or Nemar, and Achaitlin or Big Kiver, join their 
waters with those of the Nasal, a noble stream, and these, 
together with the Bear Kiver, Tarlilt, and sundry small 
creeks and brooks, have worn the deep and excellent 
passage known as the South Channel. At low tide the 
flats and shoals are all bare, and the water rushes through 
the channels with great velocity, making an attempt to 
stem the current, either in boat or canoe, a very labori- 
ous, and, at times, dangerous experiment. 

The shoals are covered with shell-fish, among which 
the oyster is the most abundant, and constitutes the prin- 
cipal article of export. Several varieties of clams, crabs 
of the largest size, and of a most delicious flavor, shrimps, 
mussels, and a small species of sand-lobster, are in the 
greatest abundance, and furnish nutritious food, not only 
to the different tribes of Indians who resort to the Bay 
at difierent seasons to procure supplies, but also to the 
white settler, who is thus enabled to greatly reduce the 
expenses of living when compared with those settlements 
on the Columbia Kiver and interior where provisions of 
all kinds are usually scarce and high. 

The waters of the Bay, and all the streams that enter 
into it, are well stocked with fish. Salmon of several 
varieties abound, and are taken in great numbers by the 
Indians for their own food or for trading with the whites. 
Sturgeon of a very superior quality are plenty, and form 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 27 

a principal item in the stock of provisions the Indians lay 
bj for their winter use. 

The rivers and mountain streams abound in trout. 
Flatfish, such as turbot, soles, and flounders, are plen- 
ty, and in the spring, innumerable shoals of herring visit 
the Bay, and are readily caught by the Indians, either 
with nets, or in weirs and traps, rudely constructed of 
twigs and brush. 

The shores of the Bay, with the exception of the west 
or peninsular side, are mostly composed of high banks 
of a sandy clay, intermingled with strata of shells and 
remains of ancient forest-trees that for ages have been 
buried. The faces of these cliffs are generally perpen- 
dicular, particularly when washed by the waves of the 
Bay ; but in some places they gradually descend to the 
water, having a level space, covered either with grass or 
bushes, close to the water's edge. The peninsula is a 
flat, marshy, and sandy plain, elevated but a few feet from 
the water level, and covered, as is also the whole region 
around the Bay, with a dense growth of gigantic forest- 
trees, principally spruce, fir, and cedar, with a few speci- 
mens of maple and ash, and black alder, which here 
grows to a tree. 

There are three islands in Shoal-water Bay ; one, at 
the North Bay, called Pine Island, is a small sand-islet 
of some four or five acres in extent, covered with low, 
stunted pine-trees and beach-grass. Some of the oyster- 
men reside on it, as it is near the channel and the oyster- 
beds. 

That portion of the Bay from its northern extremity 
to the southern point at the mouth of the Eiver Palux 
(called Goose Point) is termed the North Bay, and all 
to the south of Goose Point, South Bay. About seven- 
teen miles south of Goose Point is another island, called 
Long Island, some six or eight miles long, but narrow, 



28 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

and not over a mile and a half wide at its greatest width. 
This island is covered with a thick forest, except in a few 
places, where there are small prairie patches, very rich, 
and easily cultivated. The timber, however, is of little 
account, and would scarcely pay the labor of clearing. 

South of Long Island is another small islet, called 
E-ound Island, from its shape. It is small, not over 
two acres in extent, and covered with spruce-trees and 
bushes. 

The various rivers running into the Bay are not of 
any great length. The Whil-a-pah, which is the long- 
est, is navigable for vessels drawing from twelve to fif- 
teen feet of water twenty miles from its mouth, and for 
boats to within a short distance of the Cowlitz River. 
The Palux and Nasal are only navigable for large ves- 
sels for a few miles from their mouths ; but all the riv- 
ers, large and small, run through tine prairie-land, exceed- 
ingly rich. That portion nearest the Bay is liable to be 
overflowed once or twice during the highest tides of win- 
ter, and are termed tide lands. This overflowing is, 
however, of no detriment, although the water is salt, as, 
wherever the lands have been properly cultivated, they 
have yielded heavy crops. 

These prairies are all covered with grass of an excel- 
lent quality, making good grazing for stock, or a nutri- 
tious fodder when cut and made into hay. 

Elk, deer, and antelope are very plenty, and find ample 
sustenance at all seasons of the year. The other wild 
animals which abound are black bears, wolves, lynx, pan- 
thers, and in the streams are otter and beaver. There 
are also raccoons, foxes, rabbits, skunks and squirrels, 
minks, martens, and a singular species of rat, called the 
bush-tailed rat {Neotoma Drummondii). This animal is 
of a very mischievous nature, seeming to take delight in 
collecting all sorts of things, and conveying them to its 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 29 

nest ; instances are known of great confusion being oc- 
casioned among settlers at the sudden disappearance of 
articles whicli were afterward found hidden away by 
these rats. I have found in an old boot, that had been 
laid away during the summer, coffee, beans, dried apples, 
nails, ends of cigars, old pipes, and a variety of other 
loose trash, which were not lit for food, and could only 
have been collected for mischief. 

The feathered tribe are numerous, and during the sea- 
son flock hither in clouds : white and black swans, white 
geese, Canada geese, brant, sheldrake, cormorants, loon, 
mallard ducks, red-head, gray, and canvas-back ducks, 
teal, curlew, snipe, plover, pheasant, quail, pigeons, and 
robins. During the summer months pelican are plenty, 
and go sailing round in their heavy, lazy flight, occasion- 
ally dashing down into the water in the most clumsy 
manner to catch a fish, and at all times an easy prey and 
an acceptable banquet to the Indians, who swallow their 
coarse, fishy, oily flesh with the greatest avidity. Innu- 
merable flocks of gulls of various species are constantly 
to be seen, and at times, when attracted by any quanti- 
ties of food, appear like clouds. These birds, also, are 
readily eaten by the Indians, who never are at a loss to 
find means to appease their appetite. 

Porpoises and seals are plenty in the Bay, and the lat- 
ter are very easily killed either with spears or by shoot- 
ing. Their flesh, particularly the young ones, is very 
palatable, and their blubber makes excellent oil, which 
is eaten by the Indians. Whales are frequently thrown 
ashore on the beach bordering the Pacific during the 
winter and spring months, and their blubber forms an 
important article of diet with the natives. The salmon, 
seal, and whale oils form the same important part of the 
domestic economy of the coast Indians as lard, butter, 
or olive oil do with the whites ; and the Indian who has 



30 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

not at all times in his lodge a good supply of oil or blub- 
ber not only feels very poor, but is so considered by all 
his acquaintance and friends. 

Shoal-water Bay, as a harbor, will be of great import- 
ance to Washington Territory as soon as its advantages 
are known and the country becomes settled. The en- 
trance to the Bay from the ocean is very direct and eas- 
ily found, and the excellent chart by Captain Alden en- 
ables vessels of a light draft of water to run in at all 
times of tide. There is always, at the lowest stages of 
tide, from three to three and a half fathoms of water on 
the bar ; and as the volume of water discharged from the 
Bay is never so great as from the Columbia, there is not 
so heavy a swell or so dangerous breakers as may be 
found occasionally at the Columbia's mouth ; while the 
distance between the entrances of the river and bay, be- 
ing only twenty-seven miles, makes it a ready and safe 
harbor of refuge for vessels that, from storms and heavy 
breakers, dare not risk crossing the bar of the Columbia ; 
and I have known of several instances where vessels 
have availed themselves of the opportunity. 

As a fishing-station, this bay presents many advant- 
ages. It is directly and immediately on the whaling- 
ground, and small vessels can be fitted out for a cruise 
and placed in the right position as readily as the former 
whalers of Nantucket, who performed their voyages of a 
few weeks or months in sloops or small schooners. By 
establishing a trading-post where vessels could obtain 
supplies, which can always be speedily replenished at 
San Francisco, a fleet of five or six schooners, of a hund- 
red tons each, could be fitted and maintained for less 
than the cost of a three years' voyage for one ship from 
New Bedford ; while the ease with which the oil could 
find a market would enable the capital employed to make 
many returns before a ship having to make a voyage 
round Cape Horn could possibly be heard fi'om. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 33 

Codfish and halibut abound on this part of the coast, 
and an important and lucrative business in that branch 
of industry might be readily established. The ease with 
which communication can be had with San Francisco by 
means of the mail steamers at Astoria renders the Bay a 
more desirable locality than points farther north, while 
the dangers of the entrance are far less than at the Co- 
lumbia. 



CHAPTEE III. 

Knsseirs House. — Description of Toke and Suis. — Eussell tells the In- 
dians I am a Doctor. — Style of Medicine. — Salmon Fishing on the 
Palnx. — Old Cartumhays. — Our Reception at his Lodge. — Camp on 
the Palux. — Duck Shooting. — Great Quantities of Salmon. — Falls of 
the Palux. — The Devil's Walking-stick. — Singular Superstition of 
the Indians. 

Russell's house was the only frame building at that 
time in the Bay, and was used by him as a trading-post 
as well as a dwelling. His business was collecting and 
shipping oysters to San Francisco, and he consequently 
employed a great number of Indians to work for him. 
Near the house was a large lodge, owned by an old chief 
named Toke, who, with his family and slaves, had taken 
up their abode, although his own place was across the 
Bay, at its south side, near Cape Shoal-water, at a point 
known as Toke's Point, a name still retained by Captain 
Alden on his chart. Toke had been a man of a great deal 
of importance among the Indians, but advancing years 
and an inordinate love of whisky had reduced him to be^ 
ing regarded as an object of contempt and aversion by 
the whites, and a butt for the jests and ridicule of the 
Indians. But, when the old fellow was sober, he was 
ftiU of traditionary tales of prowess, and legends of the 
days of old. He was also one of the best men in the 

B2 



34 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 



J 



Bay to handle a canoe, or to show the various channei 
and streams ; and often afterward I have called his serv- 
ices into requisition, and always found him faithful and 
efficient. 

His wife, Suis, was a most remarkable woman, pos- 
sessing a fund of information in all matters relative to 
incidents and traditions relating to the Bay, with a 
slirewdness and tact in managing her own affairs uncom- 
mon among the Indian women. The other Indians, who 
were working for Eussell, and who belonged at some dis- 
tance, either among the Chenooks at the south, or the 
Chehalis and Queniult tribes at the north, were camped 
around the house in little tents made of mats or their 
canoe-sails. 1 

Eussell, who had a good deal of the romancing spirit 
of the Baron Munchausen in his composition, and who 
wished not only to appear great in the eyes of the In- 
dians, but to make them believe all his friends were of 
importance, introduced me to these savages as a cele- 
brated doctor, a fable which my utter ignorance of their 
language prevented my denying. However, by the aid 
of a medicine-chest of his, containing a few simple drugs, 
I went to work, and soon effected some wonderful cures. 
The most celebrated and potent medicine was a mixture 
of aqua ammonite and whale oil, prepared in the form of 
a liniment. This was effectual in curing headaches and 
rheumatic affections of various kinds. The patient was 
first required to smell the medicine, which was afterward 
rubbed on the affected part, and then faith was expected 
to finish the cure. This was a very popular medicine, 
and was considered, from its pungency, to be very potent. 
The rest of my stock of medicine consisted of nearly a 
pound of dried boneset herb, a couple of pounds of flow- 
ers of sulphur, and a pound or so of salts. My stock in 
trade was on a par with my stock of information ; but 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 35 

great faith on the part of the Indians, with their most 
excellent constitutions, enabled me to perform my duties 
to the great satisfaction of all parties. 

It was not long, however, before what was at first a 
mere jest on Russell's part turned out more real than 
either of us anticipated ; for the small-pox breaking out 
among the whites and Indians, I was obliged to render 
my services in a far more important and trying manner 
than I ever expected. A full account will be given of 
that sad time in another chapter. 

As we had brought up barrels and salt from San Fran- 
cisco for salmon, it was proposed by Russell that we 
should go out on a fishing expedition, although the sea- 
son was very far advanced, and the fish had nearly done 
running for that year. Accordingly, he procured five In- 
dians, and, taking two canoes with us well stocked with 
provisions, we started for the Palux River, about four 
miles to the south. We went up the river about ten 
miles, where we found there were three forks or branch- 
es — one running to the southeast, another, or the middle 
fork, to the east, and called Tomhays River, from an In- 
dian who lived at its junction with the other branches, 
or north fork. This Indian, whose name is Cartumhays, 
and certainly one of the greatest liars and thieves I ever 
saw, continually talks about his great honesty. " No 
lie, Tomhays," "great chief," "good man," are about 
the only English words he knows, and which, parrot-like, 
he constantly repeats when addressing the whites. Tom- 
hays had long been among the whites, both with the 
Hudson Bay Company people at Chenook, or with the 
settlers at Astoria, and is pretty generally known to ev- 
ery person around the mouth of the Columbia River; 
and being, withal, a shrewd fellow, had picked up quite 
a number of ideas of the white men's style of living. 

It was to the lodge of this worthy that Russell direct- 



36 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

ed our Indians to proceed, ''for," said he, "we shall 
have to pass over a big snag up the river, and we may 
as well wait till near high water, when we can haul over 
the canoes much easier ; and, besides, old Tomhays will 
give us a good cup of coffee and some nice broiled sal- 
mon." We soon landed, and were received by a yelp- 
ing pack of dogs, who were repaid for their civilities by 
sundry blows from sticks and stones, indiscriminately 
bestowed by our copper-colored attendants as a sort of 
largesse, as the heralds of the knights of old threw purses 
and handfuls of coin among the retainers of the nobles 
whom they were about to visit. 

The noise made by the dogs and Indians called out 
old Cartumhays, who, after giving vent to his disgust 
and indignation at the treatment his hounds and curs 
had received, invited us into his lodge, which was situ- 
ated up the hill a short distance from the landing. 

He soon prepared a meal, and gave us a nice cup of 
coffee, which he ground in a hand-mill that he had un- 
doubtedly stolen from some white person. 

We remained an hour with him, when, finding the tide 
to be about right, we started off, and proceeded up the 
north fork about a mile, where we came to the snag, which 
was an immense spruce tree fallen directly across the I 
river. We soon hauled the canoes over, and proceeded 
up three quarters of a mile farther, where we went ashore 
and camped. The river at this place runs through a deep 
mountain gorge, and at that time, at low tide, was but a 
shallow stream, very narrow, and easily forded. The win- 
ter rains had not fairly set in, or we could not have camp- 
ed where we did, for in the rainy season, and in times of 
freshets, the water comes tumbling, and foaming, and 
roaring down that narrow pass in a fearful manner. Our 
camp was easily made. The bushes were cut down, 
and a couple of forked poles stuck into the ground, hav- 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 37 




CAMP ON THK l^ALU-S. 



ing another pole laid parallel across their tops. From 
this ridge-pole a boat-sail we had with us was hung, so 
as to form a sort of roof to keep off the dew or rain, and 
in front of this was kindled a fire. 

While we were getting the camp ready, two of the In- 
dians went to catch some salmon for supper, while I took 
my gun to try some of the ducks that were flying through 
the gorge in myriads. The great spruce and fir trees 
on either side of the river threw their long branches so 
as to interlace with eacb other quite across the stream, 
forming not only a dense shade, but obliging the wild 
fowl to fly within such circumscribed limits as to be 
easily shot. It was nearly dark when we had finished 
the camp, but before night the Indians had caught a 
dozen fine salmon, and E-ussell and myself had killed as 
many ducks. Our supper was soon prepared, Eussell 
and myself eating duck, which we cooked to suit our 
taste, and the Indians confining their attention to the 
salmon, of which they ate inordinate quantities. 



38 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

After we had smoked our pipes and built an enormous 
fire, we rolled ourselves in our blankets and went to sleep, 
from which we were awakened before daylight by the 
rush of wings of the ducks and other wild fowl getting 
ready for their morning meal, and the splashing of the 
salmon in the river. I was thoroughly roused up by the 
report of a gun, fired off, as I thought, close to my ear. 
It proved that one of the Indians, who had waked before 
the rest, discovered a couple of sheldrake in our camp, 
feasting on the remains of our last night's supper. He 
stealthily reached over to where I was lying, and took 
my gun, which was beside me, loaded, and shot both the 
sheldrake at one discharge. The noise, of course, roused 
us all up, and we at once commenced preparations for 
the day. 

The implements used by the Indians for catching sal- 
mon were a hook and a spear. The former is in size 
as large as a shark-hook, having a socket at one end 
formed of wood. These hooks are made by the Indians 
from files and rasps, which they purchase of the traders, 
and are forged into shape with ingenuity and skiU. The 
socket is made from the wild raspberry bush (Rubus 
spectablis), which, having a pith in its centre, is easily 
worked, and is very strong. This socket is formed of 
two parts, which are firmly secured to the hook by means 
of twine, and the whole covered with a coat of pitch. 
Attached to this hook is a strong cord about three feet 
long. A staff or pole from eighteen to twenty feet long, 
made of fir, is used, one end of which is fitted to the 
socket in the hook, into which it is thrust, and the cord 
firmly tied to the pole. When the hook is fastened into 
a salmon it slips off the pole, and the fish is held by the 
cord, which enables it to perform its antics without break- 
ing the staff, which it would be sure to do if the hook 
was firmly fastened. The spear is a flat piece of iron 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 41 

with barbs made of elk horn, and fastened in the same 
) manner as the socket to the hook. This spear-head has 
also a line attached to it, which is fastened to the staff in 
a similar manner as the hook is. The spear is general- 
ly used in shallow water, and the hook in deep water at 
I the mouth of rivers, before the fish run up the streams. 
' Although the river was filled with salmon, and the 
banks literally piled with the dead fish killed in attempt- 
j ing to go over the falls, yet, the season being so far ad- 
vanced, there were comparatively few i^allj prime ones. 
The salmon, after casting its spawn, grows thin, and the 
flesh loses its bright pink color. The fish then is of lit- 
tle value either to the whites or Indians. Our Indians, 
who were well skilled, started up stream to commence, 
as their custom always is to go up the stream, and then, 
j letting the canoe float down, catch the fish as they pass. 
I As the tide fell, the Indians left their canoes and waded 
i in the stream. We joined them, and such a splashing 
1 and dashing I never before witnessed. I caught seven 
and Russell about as many, when, getting tired and thor- 
! oughly wet, we went back to the camp, and amused our- 
I selves shooting ducks. When the Indians were tired, 
I they came in, having been about four hours at work, and 
I during that time succeeded in killing over a hundred fine 
jj salmon. After we had eaten our dinners we started up 
|l the stream to see the falls, which were a few miles dis- 
j tant. We found this rather a rough job, as the bed of 
j the river was full of fallen trees, old logs, and rocks. As 
we approached the falls, we had to clamber up the steep 
I sides of the banks, which were covered with a growth of 
shrubbery similar in appearance to sumach, and having 
its stems covered with sharp thorns, which readily pierce 
the flesh, and sting like nettles. The name given to this 
most villainous shrub is the Devil's walking-stick. Be- 
fore we got into a position to see the falls, we had both 



42 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

received several tumbles and got our hands full of the 
prickles. However, we felt repaid for our trouble. The 
falls are a succession of cataracts from ten to twenty feet 
high, and the whole fall of the river is some two hund- 
red feet. Although there was not much water, the 
scene was fine, and, could it be viewed when the river 
was full, must be magnificent. We did not remain long, 
but scrambled back to camp, where we arrived just in 
time for supper. It was our intention to have remained 
several days, bu^ the Indians, from some superstitious 
ideas, refused to fish any more. 

One of their superstitions is that the spirits of the 
dead are always hovering about the homes they left on 
earth, and when they are displeased with any of the do- 
ings of their relatives or friends, they make known their 
presence in various ways ; and when the Indian thinks 
there are any of the " dead people" about, he will, if away 
from his home, leave the place he may be at, or, if in his 
own house, will take measures to drive off the spirit, ei- 
ther by firing a gun or getting the medicine-man to work 
speUs. Our Indians, it appeared, had heard the whis- 
tling of a plover the previous night, which I had also 
heard. They said it was a dead person. Russell told 
them it was a bird. No, said they, birds don't talk in 
the night ; they talk in the daytime. But, asked Eus- 
sell, how can you tell that it is the "memelose tiUicums," 
or dead people ? They can't talk. No, replied the sav- 
age, it is true, they can't talk as we do, but they. whistle 
through their teeth. You are a white man, and don't 
understand what they say ; but Indians know, and they 
told us not to catch any more salmon, and we are afraid, 
and must go back to-morrow. 

And, sure enough, they did get ready in the morning, 
and no promises of reward that Russell offered them 
would induce them to stop one minute after we had done 
eating breakfast. 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 43 

As we proceeded down the river on our homeward 
course, we startled myriads of wild fowl, and had some 
fine shooting. The Palux E-iver, from the junction of 
its three forks to its mouth, some eight or ten miles, runs 
through fine prairie land and marshes covered with lux- 
uriant grass, furnishing excellent grazing for stock. Ves- 
sels of four or five hundred tons burden, and drawing 
eighteen feet of water, can proceed up the river two or 
three miles, and find every facility for loading timber, 
which is very easily and readily procured on the banks 
or up the various creeks and small streams emptying into 
the main river. 

We reached Russell's house about noon, and, after hav- 
ing had our fish cleaned, we salted and packed them in 
barrels. 



CHAPTER IV. 



Wreck of the Willemantic. — Joe the Steward and his cuny Stews. — 
Climate of the Pacific. — Causes of the Mildness of Temperature. — 
Quantities of Rain. — Early Spring. — Method of learning the Indian 
Language. — Captain Purrington clearing Land. — Immense Trees. — 
Indians' Small-pox. — Indians die. — Russell sick. — Tomhays sick. — 
Queaquim dies. — Solemn Scene. 

The brig sailed for San Francisco shortly after this, 
and Russell being obliged to leave for Astoria on busi- 
ness, I remained alone in charge of the house and store, 
,L with no companion but the family of Indians. 

I did not remain so long, for the schooner Willeman- 
tic having been wrecked in Gray's Harbor, eighteen 
miles north of us, we received her crew, who were divided 
round among the settlers. Captain Vail, her owner, 
with the mate and crew, went down the beach with the 
different residents ; Joe, the steward, came and stopped 
with me. Joe was a Dane, but had lived some years at 



44 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

Sumatra, where he had learned to be ati excellent cook, 
and was particularly fond of curry, which he could pre- 
pare to perfection ; and when he left the wreck, he man- 
aged to save his bottle of curry, which enabled us to have 
many a savory mess : curried ducks or geese, venison, 
bear meat, oysters, or fish ; and when these failed, he 
would get up a dish of curried beans ; every thing but 
our coffee or bread was sure to be seasoned with curry. 
However, Joe was a capital fellow, full of his sea yarns, 
and, what with his curries and stories, we managed to 
pass off the short days and long nights very pleasantly. 

There had been a fall of snow, although the weather 
was not very cold, and we amused ourselves in making 
paths. The climate is very mild, and never so cold as 
in the same parallel of latitude on the Atlantic coast. 
This is a fact noticed by all the writers on the Pacific 
and Northwest Coasts that I have seen. Ross Cox, who 
was employed by the Fur Company at Astoria, writes 
that " the climate on the Columbia River, from its mouth 
to the rapids, is mild. The mercury seldom falls below 
the freezing point, and never rises above 80°. Wester- 
ly winds prevail during the spring and summer months, 
and are succeeded by northwesters, which blow pretty 
freshly during the autumn ; October ushers in the south 
wind and the rain, both of which continue without inter- 
mission till January, when the wind begins to bear to 
the westward ; but the rain seldom ceases till the termi- 
nation of April." 

In Greenhow's " History of Oregon and California," 
he remarks, " The countries on the Pacific side of North 
America differ materially in climate from those east of 
the great dividing range of mountains situated in the 
same latitudes, and at equal distances from and eleva- 
tions above the ocean. These differences are less within 
the torrid zone, and beyond the 60th parallel; but in 



THKEE YEAKS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 45 

the intermediate space, every part of the Pacific section 
is much warmer and drier' than places in the Atlantic or 
Arctic sections under the same conditions as above ex- 
pressed. Thus the northwesternmost regions of Amer- 
ica appear to be as cold, and to receive as much rain and 
snow from the heavens, as those surrounding Baffin's 
Bay, or those in their own immediate vicinity in Asia. 
But in tlie countries on the Pacific side, corresponding 
in latitude and other respects with Wisconsin, Canada, 
Xova Scotia, and Newfoundland, tbe ground is rarely 
covered with snow for more than three or four weeks in 
each year, and it often remains unfrozen throughout the 
winter." 

Mr. Lorin Blodget, in a letter to the National Intel- 
ligencer, published about the first of January, 1857, says 
of the climate on the Pacific coast : 

" Not only the extreme limit at the 49th parallel is 
warmer than Washington for the winter, but a distance 
like that from Paris to Aberdeen must be passed over, 
beyond the extreme limit at the north of Pugefs Sounds 
to find a winter as cold as that of this city, Washington. 
The winter at Puget's Sound is warmer than at Paris, 
the mean being 69 J ° at the first, and 38° at Paris ; and 
the winter at Sitka is warmer than that at Washington 
(30J° and 36° respectively), notwithstanding they differ 
18 degrees of latitude, or nearly 1250 miles, in position 
on the meridians. Aberdeen, in Scotland, is somewhat 
warmer, having a winter temperature of 39°, though at 
the 57th parallel." 

Again : "At Washington we were taught by the ex- 
perience of last winter — and the opening of the present 
winter repeated the lesson — that the rivers and naviga- 
ble waters here may be closed by ice for months in suc- 
, cession. Vegetation is dormant for several months, and 
in this respect the condition is practically similar from 



tl! 



46 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 






New York to the north of Georgia. This city is near 
the 30th parallel, and San Francisco is nearly at the 
38th ; yet, at this last-named city, it was remarked as 
singular that roses and flowers were cut off temporarily, 
as they were in the early part of the last winter, though 
they subsequently recovered their freshness ; and through 
February and March the temperature was as soft as that 
of the south shores of the Mediterranean. At Puget's 
Sound, in Washington Territory, ten degrees of latitude 
farther north, the winter was still mild and open, and the 
grass in constant growth. Continuing along this course 
to Sitka, ten degrees of latitude still farther north, it was 
yet, doubtless, much warmer than at Washington, since 
the average for the winter is warmer, and the changes in 
extreme years are there very far less." 

My own experience goes to prove the truth of the fore- 
going remarks, and the cause of this mildness is to be 
attributed to the fact mentioned by Cox, that the wind 
blows almost invariably from the ocean. During the 
winter months the wind is generally from the south to 
the southeast, veering at times to the southwest. These 
winds, blowing from the tropics, bring with them warm 
rains, and it is only during the winter season that thun- 
der and lightning accompany the rain, and these only 
during the most violent storms. The only severe cold 
is felt when the wind blows from the northeast, and 
whenever it gets in that quarter the effects are precisely 
the same as the northwest winds in the Atlantic states ; 
but I have never known excessive cold weather to con- 
tinue longer than twelve or fourteen days, when the wind 
will return to the south, and a warm rain brings on a 
general thaw. 

It is these facts with respect to the climate that make 
a residence in either Oregon or Washington Territories 
so desirable ; and the remarkable fact should not be lost 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 



47 



sight of, that, although Washington Territory is in the 
same latitude as Nova Scotia, yet the climate is as mild 
in winter as Pennsylvania, nor is the heat of summer so 
oppressive as in the same parallel east of the Kocky 
Mountains. I have seen the thermometer, during the 
hottest day I ever felt at Shoal-water Bay, reach 95°, 
but it was but for a few hours, and, as Cox remarks, it 
rarely exceeds 80°. During the winter the rain falls in 
the most incredible quantities, but it does not, as has 
been asserted, rain without intermission. A storm will 
commence which will last a week, some days raining 
violently, and accompanied with heavy gales of wind. 
These blows wiU last perhaps twenty -four or forty- 



inlf 



COD- 
0(1 

on 3 
'lost 





ON-BEBST, OB WISJ) BABPBSBBT (RubllS ^teCtObUs). 



48 



THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 



eight hours, when it will kill, and the rain subside into 
a gentle shower, or mere mist and fog ; then perhaps it 
will clear off, with eight or ten days of iine, clear weather. 
The spring commences much earlier also ; and I may- 
mention at this time, in evidence, that on the 10th day 
of March, 1853, while making a botanical collection, I 
gathered the blossoms of the wild raspberry (Rubus 
spectablis), the fruit of which is ripe in June, the wild 
strawberry, the Trillium (Dikentra formosa), and various 
other small flowers ; while in the month of my arrival, 
December, 1852, 1 collected and preserved the blossoms 
of the Sallal (Gaultheria Shallon). 




SAiiLAL {Gaultheria Shallon). 



THREE TEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 49 

What part of the country east of the Eockj Mount- 
ains, in the latitude of 46^ north, can be shown where 
flowers bloom from March to December ? But to return 
firom this digression. As I had not much to amuse my- 
self with, and being desirous of learning the Indian lan- 
guage, I went frequently to the lodge to learn to talk. 
There were several young men and boys who aided me, 
and, in particular, one named Cherquel Sha, and by the 
whites called George, who had been employed for a long 
time in a small steamer on the Columbia, and could talk 
English pretty well. George was very sick, and had 
often come to me for medicines, and had formed a great 
friendship for me. He would sit by the hour, either in 
the lodge or at the house, repeating words which I would 
write down to enable me to remember them. I found 
at first the Indians were inclined to tell me wrong, but I 
adopted a plan which proved effectual to enable me to 
get correct information, which was this : I would repeat 
the word slowly until I had a correct idea of the sound, 
then would write the word so that when any other white 
man saw it he could pronounce it and produce the same 
sound. Thus I knew that I had correctly spelled the 
word. Then I would at some other time pronounce the 
word to a different Indian, and ask him what it meant, 
when, if he explained it as the first one had, I knew my 
spelling and explanation were correct. By this method 
I soon obtained a vocabulary which enabled me to con- 
verse readily with them. These Indians were of the 
Chenook tribe, although some of them belonged to the 
Cliehalis tribe, on Gray's Harbor ; consequently they 
talked either language fluently, I shall refer in another 
chapter more fully to the tribes of Shoal-water Bay. 

Eussell, after an absence of a few weeks, returned, 
bringing with him Captain James S. Pumngton, for- 
merly master of a whale-ship, and who, for forty years, 

C 



50 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OB, 

had been engaged in the whaling business. Captain 
Purrington had been at work on the Columbia, and had 
lost all his labor by two successive freshets, and he con- 
cluded to try his hand in Shoal-water Bay. Russell 
was desirous of making a garden, and we all went to 
work clearing up a spot near the house. This was not 
so easy a task as might be imagined. The proposed 
garden was occupied by some thirty or more immense 
spruce-trees, from six to eight feet in diameter, and over 
a hundred feet high. 

These immense trees, falling from time to time, make 
a walk through the forest very difficult, and at times 
dangerous. I was out one day with Captain Purring- 
ton, a few months afterward, to examine a piece of land 
on our claim, when we came to an open space appar- 
ently quite level, and covered with dead wood, moss, 
and a fine growth of raspberry bushes laden with fruit; 
While we were engaged picking and eating the berries, 
all at once the captain disappeared. I called out for 
him, and directly heard a faint halloo, as I thought, underj 
ground. Directly after, down I went, and then founc 
that the place was a small ravine about thirty feet deep?! 
over which the trees had fallen in every direction so as 
to completely cover it over, and these, in their turn, had 
been covered over by an accumulation of limbs, branch-i 
es, moss, and at last by the bushes. The falling of tl 
trees had been evidently caused by some whirlwind yeai 
previous. I asked the captain if he was hurt. "No,' 
said he, "I came down as easy as if I had lit on a feath-| 
er bed ; but if you have a match about you, pass it to ! 
me, and I will soon let daylight into this heap. I don't 
like the idea of burning up all those nice berries^ but I 
have a great curiosity to see how this place will look 
when it is cleared up." The old man soon kindled a 
blaze, which very materially altered the appearance of 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 53 

the face of the country before it was put out by the rain. 
We were fortunate in escaping without injury ; but the 
experience was useful, for, in our future explorations, we 
were more careful where we went. 

The enormous growth of the timber trees on the Pa- 
- cific coast, from California to Hudson's Bay, has often 
been written about. Ross Cox writes : " The general 
size of the different species of fir far exceeds any thing 
east of the Rocky Mountains, and prime sound pine 
(spruce) from two hundred to two hundred and eighty 
feet in height, and from twenty to forty feet in circum- 
ference, are by no means uncommon. A pine tree dis- 
covered in Umpqua county, to the southeast of the Co- 
lumbia, measured two hundred and sixteen feet to its 
lowest branch, and in circumference fifty-seven feet." 

Ross Cox speaks of these trees as pine, but he is mis- 
taken ; for, with the exception of a scrubby growth of 
the Pinus palustris, found directly on the sea-coast, I 
have never seen a specimen of pine from the Columbia to 
Fuca Strait. The timber is white and yellow spruce, 
red, white, and yellow fir, hemlock, cedar, and yew. Oak 
is not found on the immediate range of the coast, but is 
plentiful on the Columbia, and in the region of Puget 
Sound. A fine quality of ash is also found in those lo- 
calities. Lewis and Clarke, speaking of the immense 
size of the trees near Astoria, mention a fir two hundred 
and thirty feet high, and one hundred and twenty feet 
of that height without a limb, and its circumference twen- 
ty-seven feet. These trees are not to be confounded with 
the great trees of California : they are a distinct species, 
and are known as red-wood trees, and the wood bears a 
resemblance to Spanish cedar. But the growth of Ore- 
gon and Washington is like the spruce, fir, and hemlock 
of the State of Maine. 

We soon, with the aid of some of the settlers, made a 



54 THE NOBTHWEST COAST; OR, 

havoc among the trees, and in a few days most of them 
were cut down. News now came that several vessels 
had been wrecked on the coast, north of Cape Disap- 
pointment, and Enssell and the captain, with several oth- 
ers, started off to render assistance, leaving Joe and my- 
self once more to make and eat curry stews. It is one 
thing to cut down a big tree, and quite another to clear 
it away ; but, by the time Eussell returned, we, with the 
help of the Indians, had cleared away all the branches, 
leaving the trunks of the trees ready for the saw. The 
wrecking party was absent a week, and brought, on their 
return, a quantity of boards from the wrecks, which were 
much needed, as at that time there were no saw-mills 
in the Bay. They reported that the small -pox had 
broken out at Clatsop, south of the Columbia. Russell 
was in great fear lest the Indians should bring the dis- 
ease over to Shoal-water Bay, and remarked that if he 
thought it would come, he would at once leave for San 
Francisco, for he dreaded the small-pox more than any 
other complaint, although he had been vaccinated. 

Joe and the captain now went to work to cut the trees 
into logs, which we then blew open with powder, and 
then with beetle and wedges reduced the blocks small 
enough to handle, and then piled them round the stumps 
and set fire to them. We usually kept these fires going 
all night, and the light these tremendous bonfires made 
could be seen for miles. The Indians enjoyed the fun 
of piling on logs and making a blaze, and every evening 
were sure to gather round and have a frolic. We had 
two young Indians, brothers, working for us, He-yal-ina 
and Que-a-quhn^ funny, lively fellows, always in good 
nature, and the smartest and best Indians I ever saw. 
Que-a-quim, the younger, was a great favorite with us 
all, and, when we had a gang of Indians at work, could 
always, by his pranks and fun, keep them pleasant. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 55 

This young fellow took delight in perching himself on a 
log every night near tlie fire, and, pointing out the differ- 
ent constellations in the starry heavens, would tell me 
the legendary tales of their mythological belief. At such 
times his demeanor was entirely changed, and, gazing 
upward with a wild and excited look, would impart his 
information in an earnest and solemn manner, that showed 
how deeply he was interested in his subject. 

The winter was now wearing away, and the snow had 
all disappeared, although January had not quite gone, and 
every pleasant day the sun shone out warm and bright, 
giving token of an early spring. While we were thus 
engaged in clearing up land and burning trees, a party of 
Indians from Chenook arrived, consisting of oldCarcum- 
cum (sister of the celebrated Comcomly, the Chenook 
chief mentioned in Irving's Astoria, and also by E-oss 
Cox), and her son Ellewa, the present chief of the Che- 
nooks, with his wife and two or three slaves. They 
made a camp on the beach near the house, where they 
lived under a little old tent. They had been to the 
wrecks, and among other things found was an India- 
rubber pillow, which Ellewa had filled with some kind 
of spirits he had also procured at the same place. He 
and his squaw, Winchestoh, managed to keep drunk 
for three or four days, when, their liquor giving out, 
they were obliged to get sober. As it commenced to 
rain, they were very miserable, and Ellewa requested 
Russell to allow the squaw to lie down by the fire in the 
house, which he did, and the same day Ellewa, with old 
Carcumcum, returned to Chenook. At supper-time I 
gave the squaw some tea and toast, and remarked that 
her face and neck were covered with little spots like flea- 
bites. I said to Russell, " This woman has either got 
the small-pox or measles." "Oh I" said he, ** don't 
say that, for I would never have had her in the house 



56 THE NORTHWEST COAST ; OR, 

if I suspected any such thing." "Well," said I, "we 
shall see." 

Soon after supper I went to bed, as did Joe and the 
captain, leaving Russell writing. About nine o'clock he 
called me to come down, for he thought the woman was 
dying ; and, sure enough, when I got down stairs she 
was entirely dead. We laid her in the store, and the 
next morning the captain and Joe made her a coffin, and 
after we had put her in we carried her about five hund- 
red rods from the house, and, having dug a grave, buried 
her in a Christian manner. 

Some ten or twelve days after this Russell was taken 
with a violent pain in his head and back, and had to 
take to his bed. Joe and the captain also were attack- 
ed, but very slightly, however. They all attributed their 
sickness to severe colds, but I knew that in Russell's 
case it was something more serious. I did not dare tell 
him, as I knew it would only frighten him ; nor did I dare 
tell my fears either to the captain or Joe, or any of the 
other settlers ; there was such a panic in the minds of 
all, that I knew the bare mention of small-pox would 
drive them all away from the house, if not from the Bay. 
I could not leave, as there was no vessel in the Bay at 
the time, nor would I leave during his illness, although 
I could easily have gone to Astoria ; so I made up my 
mind to do what I could and keep my own counsel, which 
I did so effectually that Russell did not know what was 
the matter till the fever had passed and he was nearly 
blind, and the captain and Joe did not know what ailed 
him till he was nearly well and all danger had passed. 
Joe was so scared that he ran off the same day, but the 
old man complimented me on my caution, and said that 
he could then account for the violent attack he had ex- 
perienced, and which he thought was a severe cold. 

As soon as Russell was able, he went to San Francis- 



THREE TEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 57 

CO, leaving me in charge of liis affairs. His cousin, Wal- 
ter Lynde, had insisted on seeing him while he was sick, 
and he was taken next, and I nursed him through, but 
his attack was very slight. 

Several cases occurred among the other settlers, but 
mostly Indians in their employ, and several of the In- 
dians died. I thought my hospital duties were at an 
end, but the hardest, case was yet to come off. Poor 
Que-a-quim was taken with the unmistakable symptoms, 
and, rather than have him in the lodge with the other In- 
dians, where I was afraid the infection would spread, I 
had him brought over and placed in a comfortable posi- 
tion in the chamber near my bed, where the captain and 
myself did all we could to make him easy. During his 
sickness, old Cartumhays, whose wife had just died of 
the smaU-pox, sent for me to go to his house on the Pa- 
lux, as he had the same complaint. I accordingly went, 
and found the old fellow in his bed making great lament- 
ations. After a little time he pulled out from a chest a 
package of about a dozen different kinds of medicine, 
that he had either begged, borrowed, or, more probably, 
stolen. He said he was very sick, and wished me to 
help him. 

Judging, however, from the presence of five or six 
empty whisky bottles that his complaint was not a very 
dangerous one, I recommended him a dose of salts, to be 
followed up with half a cupful of sulphur and molasses, 
to be taken instead of preserves or sweetmeats. The 
prescription in his case was happily effective, and in. two 
days he was well. 

Poor Que-a-quim, however, grew worse. He had, be- 
sides the smaU-pox, an affection of his liver, which had 
troubled him a long time. He knew he should die, and 
told me so. His brother, to whom I told this, remark- 
ed, "Well, if he wants to die, he will die." He then 

C2 



58 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

brought into the house, from the lodge, all the little prop- 
erty of his brother, consisting of a few shirts, a blanket 
or two, and some few trinkets, with a request that they 
might be buried with him. The day Que-a-quim died, 
we felt satisfied, from appearances, that such must be the 
case, and the captain remarked, "He will die this even- 
ing at high water ;" and at nine o'clock, just as the tide 
began to ebb, he died. 

Now, then, was a job before us. The Indians would 
not have any thing to do with the body, nor would we 
let them, for fear of their taking the infection, neither 
did we feel disposed to remain all night with the corpse ; 
so the captain procured a piece of old canvas, and, wrap- 
ping the body up in several blankets, taking care to in- 
close all the things which had been brought in from the 
lodge, the whole was then sewed up in the canvas, and 
the corpse lashed on to a board, and launched out of the 
chamber window by the captain, while I received the 
body from below, and laid it on a barrel till the captain 
came with a lantern and two shovels, when we took up 
the corpse, resting the board on our shoulders. Poor 
Que-a-quim ! he was not very heavy, and we soon reach- 
ed the spot where but a few weeks before we had buried 
the squaw. It did not take us long to dig a grave in 
the soft sand, and we soon laid him beside the wife of 
Ellewa. 

" We buried him darkly at dead of night." 

The little clock in Russell's house struck twelve as we 
closed the door on our return. 

The time, the place, and the occasion gave rise to the 
most solemn feelings ; neither of us could speak a word. 
But the old captain, who had seen many a scene of death, 
and assisted often in launching the bodies of his ship- 
mates into the blue waters of the ocean, could not refrain 
from shedding a tear to the memory of the poor Indian 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 59 

lad, a tribute of sympathy in which I most heartily 
joined. This was the last case of small-pox I was called 
on to attend, and I trust I may not be obliged to pass 
through such another trial, feeling perfectly satisfied with 
my acquaintance with that most disgusting and conta- 
gious disease. 



CHAPTER V. 

Arrival of Indians from the North. — Description of the Oysters and 
Oyster-fishers of Shoal-water Bay. — Hospitality of early Settlers. — 
Joel L. Brown. — Captain Weldon. — Winter in Oregon. 

The weather was now propitious for prosecuting the 
oyster-fishery, and hundreds of Indians came to the Bay 
from Chenook and the tribes at the north. Some of 
the Indians came as far as the region round Puget 
Sound. These wandering beings begin to grow restless 
when the winter approaches its termination, and, as soon 
as the wild geese make their appearance, the Indians are 
ready to start on a tramp. I do not knoAv, nor do I as- 
sert, that the flight of the wild-fowl and other migratory 
birds is any sign by which the Indian governs his move- 
ments ; but I have noticed that they generally commence 
operations about the same time. 

These Indians, during the summer months, resort to 
Shoal-water Bay to procure clams and crabs for their 
own eating, and oysters to sell to the whites. The 
Shoal-water Bay oysters are difierent from the oysters 
on the Atlantic coast, and very much resemble, in taste 
and appearance, the English Channel oysters, having the 
same strong, coppery taste. This is acquired, not from 
any presence of copper, but because they grow in beds 
on the mud flats, instead of growing, as the Atlantic 
oysters, in clusters on rocks or on a hard bottom ; and 
what is called a coppery taste is simply a strong, fishy, 



60 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

salt-water flavor, which, however, is driven off by cook- 
ing. 

These oysters are found on the flats and in shoal wa- 
ter, in different parts of the Bay, and are readily pro- 
cured, either by collecting them by hand at low tide, 
when the flats are bare, or, in the deeper water, by oys- 
ter-tongs, rakes, or dredges. The best method is by 
using the tongs. When the tide is nearly out, the boats 
and canoes start for the oyster-beds, where they wait till 
the water is gone, when they go to work picking up by 
hand into baskets, which are emptied into the canoes. 
These hand-picked oysters are the best, as they are all 
good ; those taken by the tongs, being half shells, have 
to be carried ashore and culled over, and then put on the 
beds. Each oysterman has a bed, which is marked by 
stakes driven into the flats, and can be reached at any 
time, either by foot at low water, or in boats at high 
tide. 

As the tide rises and covers the flats, the boats and 
canoes begin to creep ashore ; and as soon as they arrive 
at the beach a lively time ensues, trading, measuring, and 
shoveling the oysters, and for an hour or two all is bus- 
tle. This over, the day's work is done, and the Indian 
goes off to eat and lounge away the rest of the time till 
the next tide, and the white settler to work in his garden, 
or do what work is necessary to be done round his house. 
The arrival of a schooner from San Francisco is a time 
of general excitement, and particularly at that early time 
■when I first arrived, for, as we had no opportunity to 
replenish our supplies except by the schooners, the ar- 
rival of one was a matter of moment. 

After each one had procured what few stores he had 
sent for, the day of loading would be designated, and then 
each man exerts himself to the utmost to get as many on 
board as he can. The scows, boats, and canoes are load- 



I 



d!;il,|lll 




i 



THREE YEAES AT SUOAL-WATER BAY. 63 

ed at low tide, and, as soon as they float, they start off for 
the vessel. First come, first served, is the motto, and a 
bustling scene ensues.* 

The schooners carry from twelve hundred to two thou- 
sand baskets of oysters, and some have even taken four 
thousand baskets ; but it is not considered safe to take so 
many at once, as the bottom ones are apt to die on the pas- 
sage. These vessels are loaded with great dispatch ; and 
often I have known a schooner to receive a load of twelve 
hundred baskets, the cargo all paid for, and the schooner 
under weigh in four hours from the time she begins to 
load. These oysters bring, on an average, a dollar a 
basket alongside the vessel, and, as the exports from 
the Bay are about fifty thousand baskets per annum, 
which are paid for in gold on the spot, it can be seen 
that there is quite a circulation of specie among the 
hardy oystermen of Shoal-water Bay. They are not, 
however, exempt from losses, for the year of which I 
write proved very disastrous to several who had shipped 
oysters to San Francisco on their own account. The 
Bruce Company, consisting of Messrs. Winant, Morgan, 
Hanson, Milward, and Foster, lost several cargoes, the 
oysters dying on the passage ; and Russell, and a com- 
pany who reside in San Francisco, lost between them 
some eight or ten thousand baskets of oysters, which 
were destroyed by the skates and drum-fish. While in 
Shoal- water Bay, during the winter of 1853-4, every one 
of us lost our oysters during a heavy frost that lasted 
three or four days. 

The early settlers, whose names I have already men- 

* In 1855 there -were employed in the oyster trade in the Bay, 

1 schooner of 20 tons, capable of carrying 600 baskets oysters ; 
28 boats, " " 2200 " " 

21 scows, " " 1980 " " 

13 canoes, « « 670 " " 

5450. 



64 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

tioned, were some of the most hospitable men that could 
be found in any part of the world. Their isolated posi- 
tion, far from any other settlement (the nearest being at 
Chenook, some forty miles distant), seemed to knit them 
together in a common bond of brotherhood, and each 
seemed to vie with the other in acts of kindness to every 
stranger that might visit the Bay, either from motives of 
curiosity or to become permanent settlers. As emigrants 
were now coming in very fast, the hospitality of the wor- 
thy settlers was often put to a severe test, and it was not 
till after so many persons had arrived that it was im- 
possible to provide for them without remuneration that 
these hardy pioneers consented to ask for pay from those 
seeking for food and lodging. 

Among these emigrants arriving was Mr. Joel L. 
Brown, who, with a party, arrived in the Bay, and took a 
claim on the Eiver Palux, where lie intended erecting a 
store for trading purposes, and formed a town. Mr. 
Brown and his associates had cut a wagon-road on the 
portage, crossing from the Bay to the Columbia River, 
and quite an interest was excited by him among the 
emigrants of Oregon to make Shoal-water Bay their 
home. But, before his plans were hardly commenced, he 
died at his house on the Palux, lamented by every one 
with whom he was acquainted. Mr. Brown was a man 
of energy and perseverance, and, had he lived, would 
have made a fine settlement, and undoubtedly induced a 
large emigration. Some of the persons who came with 
Mr. Brown were, Samuel Woodward, Henry Whitcomb, 
Joel and Mark BuUard, and Captain Jackson. Mr. James 
Wilson and his family settled at the portage, and afford- 
ed assistance to the travelers going or coming to the Bay. 
The same season Captain Charles Stewart amved, and 
took a claim at the mouth of the Whil-a-pah Biver. 
Captain David K. Weldon, with his lady, also came from 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 65 

San Francisco. Captain Weldon erected a fine house and 
store at the mouth of 4he Necomanchee or North Riv- 
er, and, together with Mr. George Watkins, erected the 
first saw-mill. Mrs. Weldon was the first ladj who came 
to the Bay to reside. The settlers now began to come 
in fast ; but, as it is only my object to speak of some of 
the pioneers, a further mention of names will be unnec- 
essary, except as they may be used in the course of the 
narrative. 

Although it has been stated that the winters in Ore- 
gon and Washington are milder than in the same paral- 
lels east of the Rocky Mountains, still it must not be 
supposed that a winter's residence in either territory is 
attended with the delights of a tropical climate. 

The rains are very violent, and at times are attended 
with heavy gales from the southeast. From the high 
latitude of Shoal-water Bay, the days are very short, 
and but little out-door work can be done, and the settler 
finds it a difficult task to pass oiFthe long, stormy nights, 
unless with the aid of books or some useful in-door em- 
ployment. At such periods it is very difficult and dan- 
gerous to cross the Bay, and communication with the 
Columbia is very rarely attempted, and it is only the 
direst necessity that will compel the settlers to procure 
supplies from Astoria; consequently, every one, at the 
time I refer to, depended on the oyster schooners to bring 
them up their supplies of provisions. The winter of 
1852-3 was a hard one for the oystermen. They had 
supplied themselves, as they supposed, with sufficient 
provisions for the winter, but the unusual calls on their 
hospitality from new-comers straitened their means so 
that they were reduced to pretty short allowances ; but 
they did not complain. Those that had not an abund- 
ance were cheerfully supplied by those that had, and as 
there appeared to be a sort of pride that no stranger 



66 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

should suppose them in want, they managed to change 
and shift their commodities so as .to get through the win- 
ter without any difficulty. If one man ha-d a little more 
flour than he needed, he would exchange with a neigh- 
bor who had a surplus of pork ; and another, who might 
have an extra barrel of beef, would get a few potatoes or 
onions from some one else ; so with rice, sugar, molasses, 
coffee, or tea. Nothing mean or niggardly was known 
among these people. Their hospitality was the theme 
of remark all over the Territory, and the oyster-boys of 
Shoal-water Bay were looked upon as a community of 
generous and noble-hearted men. 

This founding of an infant colony on our extreme 
northwest frontier was no holiday work, neither was it 
child's play. The emigrant, come which way he would, 
either by land or by sea, had to endure much toil, priva- 
tion, and hardship, and when located in his new home 
had nothing but work, and hard work at that, to make 
that new home a comfortable abode. When we consider 
those families who have struggled their way over the 
great wilderness of the west, where every mile is marked 
by the grave of some unfortunate and perhaps much-loved 
one — who have had to endure the perils of the hostile 
savage, of sickness or starvation, but yet have manfully 
pushed on, and now have opened out that beautiful and 
fertile region, which is a common wealth to our whole 
country, should we not allow that they who are but the 
wards of Congress have a right to look to that guardian 
of our country to bestow upon them its assistance with 
no niggard hand ? The wealth of Oregon and Washing- 
ton has scarce begun to be developed ; but when the vast 
importance of those territories is appreciated, it must be 
admitted that every dollar expended by the nation for 
their support or defense is money well applied, and which 
will make a hundred-fold return. 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 67 

Early writers speak of the beauty and fertility of 
Washington Territory. In 1792, Vancouver, in remark- 
ing of the country around Port Discovery, Admiralty 
Inlet, and Puget Sound, writes : 

"To describe the beauties of this region will on some 
future occasion be a very grateful task to the pen of the 
skillful panegyrist. The serenity of the climate, the in- 
numerable pleasing landscapes, and the abundant fertil- 
ity that unassisted nature puts forth, require only to 
be enriched by the industry of man with villages, man- 
sions, cottages, and other buildings, to render it the most 
lovely country that can be imagined, while the labor of 
the inhabitants must be rewarded in the bounties which 
Nature seems ready to bestow on cultivation." Lewis 
and Clarke, Ross Cox, and others, also remark favorably 
upon the region. That it is destined ere long to be of 
vast importance to our interests in the Pacific must be 
apparent to the most casual observer. 



CHAPTER YL 

Stony Point. — Visit ofWalter and myself to the Memelose TiMcums, or 
Dead People. — Basal tic Boulders. — Indian Tradition respecting them. 
— Legend of the Doctor and his Brother. — The Giants build a great 
Eire to heat Stones. — They boil out the Bay. — The Doctor finds his 
Brother in a Fish's Belly. — Bear-hunt on Stony Point. — Bartlett kills 
the Bear. — Method of burying the Dead. — "We find a Mummy. — Rus- 
sell sends the Mummy to San Francisco. — Opinions of scientific Per- 
sons respecting the Mummy. — An instance of another Body being 
preserved. — I get capsized at Stony Point. — Take a Claim on the 
Querquelin River. — Description of the Claim and our mode of Liv- 
ing. — Method of Canoe-making. — Seal-catching. — Method of catch- 
ing Fish. — Indian Food. — Description of the Roots and Berries. — Sea 
Otter. — River Otter. — Beaver. — Furs. 

Before Russell returned from San Francisco I had 
several walks with his cousin, Walter Lynde, who, being 



68 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

very fond of collecting curiosities, was always ready for 
a tramp. One day we took our hatchets, determined to 
explore the heights of a promontory called Stony Point, 
about an eighth of a mile south, on which were said to 
be a number of old canoes and other Indian remains. 
The place was considered sacred, and no Indian ever 
ventured there. Their usual superstitious reverence, 
and fear of any thing belonging to the " memelose tilli- 
cums," or dead people, prevented their ever going near 
the spot. Stony Point is a narrow strip of land, or rath- 
er sandy clay, with a little soil on the top, extending 
into the Bay some three or four hundred rods. It has 
been washed away by repeated storms, so that now it is 
not more than ten rods wide, perfectly precipitous, with 
an elevation of some sixty feet from the water. It is 
approached either by a path from the end next the Bay, 
or from its junction with the main land. At that time 
it was thickly covered with spruce-trees, and a thick un- 
dergrowth of vine maple, sallal bushes, vines, and other 
obstructions ; and as at the time of our visit no white 
man had ever had occasion to go upon it, we expected to 
have quite a job. This promontory rests on boulders 
of basaltic rocks, which have been washed bare as the 
waves of the Bay have encroached on the clayey soil of 
the Point. These rocks are remarkable from the fact 
that they are the only rocks of the kind that are to be 
found in the Bay. They appear at some period to have 
been subjected to the action of fire. The Indian tradi- 
tion relating to them is that, ages ago, a celebrated med- 
icine-man or doctor, accompanied by his brother, came 
from the north on a visit to the Bay for the purpose of 
obtaining clams. One day, while wading in the water 
for crabs, the brother of the doctor fell into a deep chan- 
nel, where he was seized by some great sea-monster and 
swallowed. His lengthened absence from home caused 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 69 

much anxiety, and the doctor, by his divination, ascer- 
tained what was the cause. At that time giants, or strong 
men, lived in the mountains near the Bay. These the 
doctor caused to bring huge stones, while he himself col- 
lected great firs, dried spruce, and other trees wherewith 
to build a great fire. When this was done, the stones 
were piled on the top of the wood after the present meth- 
od the Indians have of heating stones for cooking pur- 
poses ; and, when the wood was burned down, the red- 
hot stones were thrown into the Bay, which caused it to 
boil so violently that the water soon evaporated. The 
doctor then seeing the great sea-monster, killed it with 
his club, and, ripping its belly open, released his brother, 
who very joyfully proceeded with him to Chenook, 
where, after performing sundry famous cures, they gave 
offense to some person more potent than themselves, who 
changed them to stone. Two rocks near Scarborough's 
Hill, at Chenook Point, are still shown as the doctor 
and his brother. As every thing about the region de- 
notes volcanic action, there is no doubt that the origin 
of the tradition was some great convulsion of nature, the 
account of which has thus been handed down from gen- 
eration to generation, clothed with the ideal imagery of 
the Indian's mind. 

These rocks were also the scene of a bear-hunt at a 
later period. Two of the oystermen, George G. Bartlett, 
or, as we used to caU him, Tom Bartlett, and Stephen 
Marshall, were one day going round the Point at about 
half tide, when a large portion of the rocks are bare, 
when they discovered a half-grown cub on the outer 
rocks, and, hastily hauling their boat ashore, they got 
between the bear and the land, and attempted to catch 
him. Steve had a boat-hook, with which he manfully 
approached the animal, who felt not a little surprised at 
his position. Tom had an oar. Their object was to 



70 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OB, 

drive the bear into the water, and then keep him off shore 
till he was exhausted, when they hoped to secure him. 
But Bruin was not to be so easily taken. After wast- 
ing about an hour and gaining no advantage, Stephen 
rushed up to give the animal a punch with the boat- 
hook, but he slipped when close up, and in a second the 
bear broke the boat-hook to atoms, and tore the frock off 
Marshall's back, who roared out most lustily for Bartlett 
to aid him. The bear, however, did no more damage, 
but let him go, which he did in a hurry, never stopping 
till he had reached his house, screaming and roaring all 
the way, " Turn out, boys ! turn out ! Tom Bartlett has 
been killed by a bear at Stony Point!" This roused 
up the men of the beach, who ran to Bartlett's assist- 
ance, and found him coolly tumbling the bear into his 
boat, having shot him with a revolver. Marshall was 
often rallied on his running away, when he always re- 
plied, " Well, boys, but I was scared, that's a fact!" 

Walter and myself, after a deal of cutting among the 
vines and bushes, came to the old canoes, which had 
evidently been there many years. They had been used 
as coffins for the dead, according to the usual custom 
of the Coast Indians, who place their dead in canoes, 
which are elevated on four posts, and resting on hori- 
zontal bars running through holes mortised in the tops 
of the posts. 

While thus engaged, we attempted to clamber over 
what we supposed to be a small mound, which was cov- 
ered with wild currant bushes. As we took hold of 
these to aid us, they gave way, and we discovered the 
mound to be an old canoe of large dimensions, which, 
years before, had fallen from its perch in the air, and had 
been overgrown by moss and bushes. On turning the 
canoe over, we discovered under it a small canoe con- 
taining the body of an Indian in a complete state of 



I 



I 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 73 

preservation. It looked like a dried mummy. In the 
canoe, also, were the skeletons of two children, and a lot 
of beads, brass wrist -rings, and other trinkets. We 
took out some of the ornaments, and covered the whole 
up as we had found it. This mummy was afterward 
visited by every man nearly in the Bay, and several 
months or a year afterward it was boxed up by Eussell, 
who claimed to have discovered it, and shipped by him 
to San Francisco, where it excited the wonder and ad- 
miration of the quidnuncs, and learned opinions and 
lengthy dissertations were delivered to show that the 
North American Indians understood the process of em- 
balming bodies ; and one writer went so far as to assert 
that the veins of this specimen had been injected with 
pitch. Now my own opinion is simply this : the man, 
at the time of his death, was much emaciated, and being 
placed in a current of pure air, that is always fresh at 
Stony Point, had simply dried up ; and this opinion is 
based on the fact that, during the summer months, all 
along the Pacific coast the air is very pure and dry. 
Meat, when placed in the open air, where there is a good 
circulation, does not putrefy, but dries. I have also 
made diHgent inquiry among the Indians, who have in- 
variably assured me that they knew of no preserving 
process, and they thought as I did, that the body had 
dried. There is a peculiarly preservative quality in the 
land round the Bay. It abounds in silex, which is held 
in solution, forming petrifactions of various kinds. Ag- 
ates and cornelians of great beauty are common, and 
many fossil remains are to be met with. 

Some time after this, a young Indian died near my res- 
idence, and was placed by his relatives in a large cam- 
phor-wood chest, and buried in the sand, where the body 
remained one year, when it was taken up to be reburied 
across the Bay, and on opening the chest, the corpse was 

D 



74 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

found as perfect as the day it was buried. Now, if I 
had sent that specimen to San Francisco without com- 
ment, the wise men and philosophers would have been 
as badly puzzled as they were by the mummy. 

I had one more incident occur to me at Stony Point 
shortly after this. I was going through the rocks with 
a barrel of beef in my canoe during a heavy squall, when 
a sea struck her, and she capsized, and the barrel and 
myself were thrown overboard. I managed, fortunately, 
to get on the rocks, and got hold of the canoe as she 
came drifting past, righted her, and paddled her round 
the Point into calm water, where I bailed her out, and 
went to the house for a dry suit. I found the beef at 
low tide the next day. 

Eussell having returned to take charge of his own af- 
fairs, the captain and myself concluded to take a claim, 
and try our luck at the oysters, which were then selling 
at a good price, two dollars per basket being asked and 
obtained. 

Old Toke, learning my intentions, offered to show me 
a good place, and taking his canoe, with Peter, a young 
fellow in his lodge, to assist, he paddled me to a little 
stream called the Querquelin, or Mouse River. This is 
a creek emptying into the Bay about two miles south of 
Russell's house, and half way between it and the Palux. 
I had frequently passed by this river without supposing 
there was any thing more than a mere brook. Quite a 
cove making in at that point, the distance from the usual 
direct line of boats passing up or down the Bay to the 
mouth of the creek was so great, that no one, unless they 
had especial business, ever thought of going in there, 
and I was astonished to find a fine stream, about two 
hundred feet wide, which ran close under a precipitous 
cliff, a hundred feet high, covered thickly with spruce 
and fir, and at the water's edge with black alder. On 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 77 

the other or north side of the stream was a fine level 
prairie, containing five or six acres of marsh, and as many- 
more of elevated land above the reach of the highest 
tides. Two acres of this land was clear of trees, and 
had been formerly the site of an Indian village. Back 
of this cleared spot, a fine grove of spruce trees shelter- 
ed the place from the north wind. The western side 
was open to the Bay, with a clear view of the Pacific, 
and of the two entrances to the Bay. The river wound 
round this point in the form of a horse-shoe, and then 
threaded its way through a rich prairie for eight or nine 
miles, when it forked into two small brooks. This place, 
from its peculiar position, had always been a favorite res- 
idence with the Indians ; but the chief having died, the 
village was deserted, the houses burned down, and the 
whole grown over with rose-bushes, blackberry vines, 
wild gooseberry, and a most luxuriant crop of nettles 
and ferns. 

Toke told me that the Indians were afraid to go back 
there to live on account of the dead people ; but if a white 
man went there they would go back too, for the dead 
people, 7ne7nelose tillicums, were afraid of the whites. I 
was very much pleased with the locality, and on my re- 
turn agreed with the captain to move down there. On 
the first of May we took possession, and I was perfect- 
ly delighted with the place. As no saw-mill had then 
commenced operation (although Captain Weldon was at 
work on his), we had to do as well as we could for a 
shelter. The brig Potomac being then in the Bay, I 
I purchased of the captain a spare topsail, with which we 
made us a famous tent, or sail house, as the Indians call- 
ed it. It was a very comfortable place, and we soon 
commenced operations. Although so early in the season 
as the first of May, the nettles and ferns were three feet 
high. However, we cut and slashed among them, get- 



78 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

ting most woefully stung, and in the course of a few 
days, had a place cleared away large enough to plant 
some potatoes, squashes, beans, and other vegetables. 
The soil was the richest. kind of loam, but it had a great 
many shells in it, and there were heaps and mounds of 
shells containing thousands of bushels, the accumulation 
of years of the refuse of the Indians. The ground was 
full of all kinds of insects, bumble-bees, spiders, ants, 
beetles, cut - worms, and caterpillars, which, however, 
wanted only a year or two stirring-up to be banished. 
We soon had a garden planted, and now turned our at- 
tention to oysters. As soon as the Indians found the 
place was inhabited, they flocked there in numbers, and 
we had our hands full of trade. They preferred coming 
to us, as the place was easy of access at all times of tide, 
and, in case of any gale, their canoes were perfectly safe 
in the smooth water of the river, which was not so down 
the beach with the other settlers ; for at high tides, in 
storms, the swell of the Pacific would roll into the Bay, 
making quite a surf on the beach, often smashing up 
boats and canoes, and creating considerable damage. 
Among the Indians who came to the Bay to work was 
a chief of the Queniult Indians, a tribe who live on the 
banks of a river of the same name, which empties into 
the Pacific five miles north of Point Grenville, or about 
sixty miles north of Shoal-water Bay. This tribe is 
considered a very hostile race by the other Indians, and 
numerous massacres have been committed by them on 
the white traders in earlier times. The chief, whose 
name is Kape, was accompanied by two of his sons and 
a large party of his people. He came in a large canoe, 
which he wished to sell me, and as I wanted one of that 
description, I purchased his. The old fellow remained 
with me a couple of weeks, and we formed a great friend- 
ship for each other. His sons were the finest-looking 



i 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 79 

Indians I have ever seen. The oldest, who^e name is 
Wamalsh, was about twenty-two years old, six feet high, 
and most perfectly proportioned. The younger, named 
Wy Yellock, a lad of eighteen, although much shorter, 
was full as well proportioned, and very handsome. Nei- 
ther Kape or his sons could understand a word of the 
Chenook language, and I had to employ an Indian to in- 
terpret. He was also a Queniult, and came with Kape. 
His name was Hait-lilth, and called by the whites John. 
He had been with some person from Oregon to the Cal- 
ifornia mines, and could talk very good English. They 
all stopped with us in our tent, sharing our meals, and 
sleeping on mats. They were very pleasant, quiet, and 
well behaved. John, who was*the spokesman, was quite 
intelligent and full of anecdotes, which helped to make 
the time pass very agreeably. This visit was the foun- 
dation of a friendship with Kape and his tribe, which 
lasted unbroken during my residence in the Territory. 
The canoe which I had purchased was a beauty. She 
\f3iQ forty-six feet long and six feet wide, and had thirty 
Indians in her when she crossed the bar at the mouth 
of the Bay. She was the largest canoe that had been 
brought from up the coast, although the Indians round 
Vancouver's and Queen Charlotte's Islands have canoes 
capable of carrying one hundred warriors. These canoes 
are beautiful specimens of naval architecture. Formed 
of a single log of cedar, they present a model of which 
a white mechanic might well be proud. 



80 



THE NOETHWEST COAST ; OR, 




COWLITZ CANOE. 




QXJKNICLT PADDLE. 



The other canoes are the forms used bj the Indians 
about Fuca Straits and farther north, as being best adapt- 
ed for rough water, and the Cowlitz canoe, which is 
mostly used on the rivers of the interior. The broad 
bow of the latter form is to enable the Indian to have a 
firm footing while he uses his pole to force the canoe 
over the rapids. The paddle is the shape used by the 
Indians in deep water, and is different from the Chenook 
paddle, which is notched at the end. 

The manufacture of a canoe is a work of gTeat moment 
with these Indians. It is not every man among them 
that can make a canoe, but some are, like our white me- 
chanics, more expert than their neighbors. A suitable 
tree is first selected, which in all cases is the cedar, and 
then cut down. This job was formerly a formidable 
one, as the tree was chipped around with stone chisels, 
after the fashion adopted by beavers, and looks as if 
gnawed ofi; At present, however, they understand the 
use of the axe, and many are expert choppers. When 






THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAT. 81 

the tree is down, it is first stripped of its bark, then cut 
off into the desired length, and the upper part split off 
with little wedges, till it is reduced to about two thirds 
the original height of the log. The bows and stern are 
then chopped into a rough shape, and enough cut out of 
the inside to lighten it so that it can be easily turned. 
When all is ready, the log is turned bottom up, and the 
Indian goes to work to fashion it out. This he does 
with no instrument of measurement but his eye, and so 
correct is that, that when he has done his hewing no one 
could detect the least defect. When the outside is 
formed and rough-hewn, the log is again turned, and the 
inside cut out with the axe. This operation was for- 
merly done by fire, but the process was slow and tedi- 
ous. During the chopping the Indian frequently ascer- 
tains the thickness of the sides by placing one hand on 
the outside and the other on the inside. The canoe is 
now again turned bottom up, and the whole smoothed 
oif with a peculiar-shaped chisel, used something after 
the manner of a cooper's adze. This is a very tiresome 
job, and takes a long time. Then the inside is finished, 
and the canoe now has to be stretched into shape. It 
is first nearly filled with water, into which hot stones 
are thrown, and a fire at the same time of bark is built 
outside. This in a short time renders the wood so sup- 
ple that the centre can be spread open at the top from 
six inches to a foot. This is kept in place by sticks or 
stretchers, similar to the method of a boat's thwarts. 
The ends of these stretchers are fastened by means of 
withes made from the taper ends of cedar limbs, twisted 
and used instead of cords. When all is finished, the wa- 
ter is emptied out, and then the stem and head-pieces are 
put on. These are carved from separate sticks, and are 
fastened on by means of withes and wooden pegs or tree- 
nails. After the inside is finished to the satisfaction of 

D2 



82 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

the maker, the canoe is again turned, and the charred 
part, occasioned by the bark fire, is rubbed with stones 
to make the bottom as smooth as possible, when the 
whole outside is painted over with a black mixture madei 
of burned rushes and whale oil. The inside is also] 
painted red with a mixture of red ochre and oil. The) 
edges all round are studded with little shells, which are] 
the valve joint of the common snail, and, when brass- 1 
headed nails can be obtained, they are used in profusion.j 
This description I give is of the making of a canoe near] 
my house, and I saw the progress every day, from the 
time the tree was cut down till the canoe was finished. 
This was a medium sized canoe, and took three months] 
to finish it. 

As old Kape was an excellent shot, we frequently] 
went out for seals, which abound in the Bay. At such 
times some of the party would stop on the flats to gather' 
crabs, while others were engaged in catching turbot and 
flounders. This is very good sport for the Indians. 
These fish are found in the little pools of water on the 
flats which have been left by the receding tide. The 
crabs, which are of a large size, very fat, and of delicious 
flavor, are plentiful in the spring and early part of sum- 
mer. We would gather them by the bushel, and when 
boiled I think them superior to any lobster or craw-fish 
1 have ever eaten. When the Indians catch them they 
break off" the shell, saving only the claw part. This 
method not only reduces the bulk to be carried, but most 
effectually cures the biting propensities of these crabs, 
who can give a pretty severe nip. I was with old Toke 
one day, and, while wading in one of these pools, a large 
crab seized him by the heel, which it bit so severely as 
to draw blood. Old Toke was frantic, and, seizing the 
crab with both hands, threw it far on the flats ; then 
rushing up, he jumped on it till it was smashed to atoms, 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 83 

uttering all the time the most violent expressions of 
rage. 

The turbot and flounders are caught while wading in 
the water by means of the feet. The Indian wades along 
slowly, and, as soon as he feels a fish with his feet, he 
steps quickly on it and holds it firmly till he can reach 
hold of it with his hand, when he gives it a jerk, and 
away it flies far into the flats. This process is repeated 
till enough fish are caught, when they are picked up, put 
in a basket, and carried to the canoe. The turbot are 
much like the English turbot, but smaller ; the largest I 
have ever seen weighed twenty pounds. The flounders 
are similar to those of the Atlantic at New York or Bos- 
ton. They are easily taken by this method of the In- 
dians, as their rough backs prevent them slipping from 
under the feet. The catching affords a deal of fun, as 
usually quite a number are engaged in the sport, and 
their splashing, slipping, screaming, and laughing make 
a lively time. These fish, like all the fish in the Bay, 
are very fine and well flavored. 

Whenever Kape would shoot a seal, which was often, 
the bullet-hole was first stopped up to save the blood, 
and as soon as the animal was brought ashore, the fol- 
lowing process was invariably adopted. A couple of 
round logs, eight or ten inches in diameter, were laid par- 
allel to each other, a foot or two apart, and between them 
kindled a brisk fire of dry chips. The seal is then laid 
across the logs over the blaze, and, commencing at the 
nose, the whole body is rolled over and over till all the 
hair is thoroughly singed ofl*. The skin, which is, by 
this process, pretty well roasted, is scraped clean with a 
shell or knife. The blubber is next cut off* in strips, 
which are boiled in water, and the oil skimmed off with 
shells. After it has settled and cooled, it is poured into 
a bottle (as they call it), made of the paunch of the ani- 



84 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

mal blown up like a bladder, and dried. In every lodge 
may be seen these bladder-like bottles, and the more 
an Indian has the greater his wealth. The meat, which 
is dark, is boiled with the blood, which they are particu- 
lar to save, and, when cooked, is tender, and not very 
unpalatable. The liver, particularly, of a young seal is 
very nice, and, when fried with pork, resembles hog's 
liver. The oil is eaten freely with all their food, and, 
when freshly boiled, is as sweet and free from fishy flavor 
as lard. 

Toke's method of killing seals was by the spear. This 
is the ancient style, and, as old Toke had been famous 
for his prowess among these animals, he chose to retain 
the style of weapons he had been most accustomed to. 
The staff of his spear was about twenty feet long, made 
of fir or yew. The head of the spear, made like a sal- 
mon spear, but larger, was attached to a line thirty 
fathoms long, and of a size known on shipboard as a 
hand lead-line. With this armament the old savage 
would sally forth, and proceed to some sand island to 
the leeward of the seals, who are always, at low tide, 
seen basking in the sun, particularly in the spring, when 
the young ones are about. Having fastened his canoe 
and divested himself of his clothes, with one end of the 
line fastened round his body, and the rest coiled up on 
his left arm^ he goes into the water, with the spear firm- 
ly grasped in his right hand, and floating just under the 
surface of the water. No part of his person, except the 
face and top of his head, could be seen, and the hair 
floating round made him look very much like a seal. 
Cautiously and slowly he gets between the seal and the 
deep water; then wading ashore, careful to keep his 
body submerged till he is near enough, he suddenly rises 
up, and, darting his spear into the body of the animal, 
runs back on the sand, and, setting his heels firmly, 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 85 

braces himself up for the contest. He lets but little line 
out at first, and, if he is the strongest, easily gains the 
mastery. But with a large old male a fierce struggle en- 
sues, and it is sometimes attended with the loss of the 
line ; but generally the old fellow comes out victorious. 
When the animal is dead, the first thing is to stop up 
tlie spear-hole with a wooden plug, or a bunch of grass 
or fern, which is always carried in the canoe for the 
purpose. The prize is then carried home, and the same 
process gone through as before mentioned. Toke, like 
all other Indians I have met with, never ate any thing 
before he left home on these seal hunts, and sometimes 
he would be twenty-four hours without food. He said 
it made him feel lazy, and he would wonder why I al- 
ways insisted on eating my breakfast before starting off 
on these early morning expeditions. 

The large clams and quahaugs are more prized by ihe 
Indians than oysters. The large clam called by them 
metar or smetar are found in the sand about a foot deep. 
Their long snouts or necks thrust up to the surface in- 
dicate their position. They are then dug up by scrap- 
ing away the sand with the hand, a process in which the 
squaws are particularly expert. The quahaug or hard- 
shell clam, called by them clolum, is found near the sur- 
face, and in some locations perfectly bare. These clams 
are cured for use as follows : the smetar is opened with 
a knife, and the clams stuck on skewers holding about 
two dozen ; these are then washed clean, drained, and 
dried in smoke. The clolunn is opened by being heaped 
on stones previously heated, then covered with sea-weed 
and mats. The water contained in the clam runs down 
on the hot stones, causing steam, which, being confined 
by the mats and sea-weed, soon cooks the whole pile, 
containing usually from ten to twenty bushels. From 
twenty minutes to three quarters of an hour are gen- 



86 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

erally occupied in performing the operation, and the cov- 
erings are then removed. The shells, now being open, 
are easily separated, and the meat stuck on skewers, like 
the metdr^ and dried in the smoke. These dried clams 
are a great article of trade with the Indians of the inte- 
rior, and quantities are annually carried from Shoal-wa- 
ter Bay up the Columbia. When these clams are first 
taken out of the steaming heap they are most delicious, 
very tender and sweet, but after they are dried they are 
rather tough chewing. They are usually cooked by 
boiling them, when they get a little softer, and taste 
pretty well, particularly to a hungry person, the smoky 
flavor being no objection. My favorite method of cook- 
ing these shell-fish was to make a chowder of the qua- 
il ogs, and, after cleaning the great sea clam, roll them in 
meal, and fry them with salt pork. The long sand clam 
or razor-fish was also cooked by frying. Another clam, 
resembling the common clam of Massachusetts in shape, 
is also found, and usually eaten raw by the Indians. 
This is called by them aryuk, and, fried in batter, is very 
nice. There are several varieties of mussels found, one 
of which, a white-meated one, grows singly on the flats 
near the oyster-beds. Whenever I could obtain these 
mussels, which are not very plenty, I always found them 
preferable to oysters. Some other varieties of mussel 
grow in immense beds, and, by making shoals, are a nui- 
sance to the oystermen, whose boats frequently get 
aground on them, and have to wait sometimes six or 
eight hours for the return tide. These mussels, although 
eaten by the Indians, are not very good, and are seldom 
partaken of by the whites ; still, I never heard of any 
ill effects attending their use as food. 

The common barnacle grows very large on the old 
logs about the Bay and up the coast. Some of the In- 
dians, particularly the Queniults, are very fond of them, 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 87 

but I never saw any of the Bay Indians use them. In 
the creeks that run into the Bay a small crab is taken 
in great quantities, which are boiled by the Indians and 
eaten, shells and all. These shell-fish are not taken 
during the winter months, and then, if the Indian has 
been improvident or neglectful of his winter supplies, he 
is at times reduced to great distress. But as soon as 
the weather begins to get a little warm, which it does in 
February or March, he is no longer in want. Yegeta- 
tion starts very early and grows rapidly. A variety of 
roots and plants are eaten. The stalks of the cow par- 
snip and the wild celery are eaten raw. The outer skin 
is first peeled off, and the tender and aromatic vegetable 
forms a very grateful addition to the dried salmon eggs 
which are now brought on for food. The leaves of the 
yellow dock are boiled, then bruised up into a pulp, and 
eaten with sugar or molasses, if they can be obtained, or 
else with oil. The root of the common skunk cabbage, 
after being boiled and partially deprived of its acrid 
properties, is eaten with avidity, but I was never very 
partial to the dish. The most pleasant, cooling, and 
healthy vegetable is the sprout of the wild raspberry 
{Joubus spectablis). This shoots up with great rapidity, 
seeming to grow as fast as asparagus. These sprouts 
are collected in bundles and brought into the lodge, 
where they are denuded of their tough outer skin, and 
the centre is as crisp and tender as a cucumber, and, be- 
ing slightly acid, is delicious. They are slightly astrin- 
gent ; and as the herring begin to make their appearance 
at the same time, and from their oily nature, and the im- 
moderate manner in which the Indians eat them, are apt 
to produce disorders of the bowels, the sprouts, being 
freely eaten at the same time, counteract the eifect. So 
with the berry of this plant, which is ripe in June, when 
the salmon begin to be taken in the Columbia. This 



88 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

fruit, which is called the salmon-berry, and is found in 
the greatest abundance, is also beneficial to counteract 
any ill effects that might be occasioned by inordinate 
eating of the rich salmon. There is also another variety 
of the raspberry {Ruhus odoTatu8\ but its fruit is infe- 
rior, and of but little account. Its blossoms differ from 
those east of the Eocky Mountains, being white instead 
of pink. 

Among the different roots eaten by the Indians in the 
Bay are three varieties of fern, which are cooked by bak- 
ing. The root of the common cat-tail flag is eaten raw, 
and I found it, sliced with vinegar, very palatable. Small 
roots resembling snake -root in appearance, but with- 
out flavor, when cooked by boiling are dry and mealy, 
and are eaten with oil. The root of a species of rush, 
found on the sea-shore, of the size of a walnut, is eaten 
either raw or baked ; its taste raw is similar to the Jeru- 
salem artichokes, and baked resembles a mealy potato. 
There is also a plant of the Mesembryanthemum species, 
with a root like a yam, which, baked or boiled, is excel- 
lent. This, also, is found on the sea-side, in the sand 
near the beach. As the season advances and the fruits 
ripen, great quantities are used as food, to the exclusion 
of fish and meats. The dry, mealy berries of the Ar- 
butus uva ursi, or bear-berry, are bruised and eaten 
with oil, and the dried leaves, called quer-lo-e-chintl, are 
smoked like tobacco. The salmon-berry just mentioned 
is the first fruit ripe, and is soon followed by strawber- 
ries, great quantities of which are found in the plains of 
the peninsula, and in all the prairie lands on or near the 
coast. Then comes the whortleberry, blueberry, and a 
beautiful coral-red berry like a currant, called red whor- 
tleberry, but of a different character. This fruit tastes 
like and resembles the common red currant, and I think, 
by cultivation, it would make not only a beautiful and 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 89 

ornamental shrub, but the quantity and quality of the 
fruit would be improved. Blackberries, gooseberries, 
and wild black currants next follow, and then comes the 
saUal {Gaultheria Shallon). This beautiful evergreen 
shrub may be found varying in height from two feet to 
ten. The leaf is a dark green, like the laurel ; the bark 
on the smaller limbs and twigs is red, or of a reddish- 
brown. The flowers are in clusters, like the currant, 
Laving from fourteen to twenty-one on one stem. The 
fruit, when ripe, is a very dark purple, almost black, 
rough on the outside, very juicy, and of a sweetish, 
slightly acid taste, and of the size of large buck-shot. 
It is excellent cooked in any form, and is dried by the 
Indians, and pressed into cakes containing some five or 
six pounds, which are covered with leaves and rushes, so 
as to exclude the air, and then put away in a dry place 
for winter's use. This plant continues to blossom till 
late in December in certain localities, although it has but 
one crop, which is ripe in August. The wild crab-apple 
also grows in abundance, and is eaten by the Indians 
after being simply boiled. These apples are very small, 
of an oval shape, with a long stem, and grow in clusters 
of from six to ten. The cranberry, which is very plen- 
tiful, and forms quite an article of traffic between the 
whites and Indians, is next in season, and is followed by 
a species of whortleberry, called by the Indians shot- 
berries, which last till December, when the rains beat the 
fruit off the bushes. The berries grow in clusters, and 
resemble the prim. The leaf is small, of oval shape, 
with finely-serrated edges. It is also an excellent ber- 
ry, and, if kept dry and cool, can be preserved fresh for 
several months. It is, however, usually dried by the In- 
dians, and eaten early in the spring, before the other ber- 
ries begin to ripen. 

On the Columbia River, an excellent root, called the 



90 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

wappatoo, which is the bulb of the common Saggitafoha, 
or arrow-head, is found in abundance, and is a favorite 
food of the wild swans, which are very plentiful. The 
wappatoo is an article much sought after by the interior 
Indians, but there is none found on the coast, except 
in very small quantities. The Caimnasia esculenta is 
found all over both territories, and is known by various 
names. The Indians call it La Cainmass^ which is the 
name taught them by the early French voyageurs. This 
is spelled by different writers as Kamma3us, Lackamas, 
Camarus, Camash, and Kamas, but they all mean the 
same. Every tribe, in its own peculiar language, has a 
different name for this root ; but in conversation with the 
whites, they use the Jargon, or trade language, which is 
a barbarous mixture of Chenook, English, and French ; 
and if writers of Indian Jargon words would but consider 
their origin, they would not be so liable to such wide dif- 
ferences in their method of spelling. 

This root, which resembles an onion in appearance, is 
a species of lily, found in moist places on the prairies. 
After the plant has done flowering, or when the Indians 
consider it ripe, which is usually in September and Octo- 
ber, the root is dug up by the squaws, who go out in par- 
ties for the purpose, and are generally absent several 
days. After sufficient has been collected, the leaves and 
loose outhusks are removed, and the whole roasted on 
hot stones. The method is as follows : A large pile of 
dry wood is made, on the top of which a quantity of 
stones are piled ; fire is then applied, and kept up till all 
the wood is burned, leaving nothing but the hot stones 
and aslies. Fern-leaves a,re then laid on the stones, and 
on these mats are placed ; the cammass-roots are then 
placed on the mats, and spread level; water is then 
thrown over them, and immediately they are covered 
with mats, blankets, and the whole covered up with sand, 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 91 

every care being taken to keep in all the steam. This 
heap is allowed to remain till it is cold, which, according 
to the size of the fire and tlie quantity of roots used, va- 
ries from twelve to twenty-four hours. The roots then 
are soft and very sweet, much like a baked sweet potato. 
The natives preserve them by pressing them into loaves, 
which, when eaten, are cut in slices like pudding. I 
never have met with a white person who was not fond 
of baked cammass, and I do not know any vegetable, ex- 
cept fried bananas, so delicious. There are, undoubted- 
ly, many other roots, fruits, and vegetables eaten by the 
Indians, but I do not recollect any others except those 
mentioned. 

Old Kape and his sons were good hunters, and eveiy 
season came to the Bay laden Avith furs, which they car- 
ried to the store of the Hudson Bay Company at Che- 
nook, on the Columbia River. The most valuable skins 
they brought were the sea-otter, which they shoot in 
considerable quantities at Point Grenville, on the coast, 
about sixty miles north of Shoal-water Bay. The sea- 
otter is the most valuable of the fur animals taken on 
the Pacific coast, those to the north of the Columbia be- 
ing considered of more value than those taken south and 
along the coast of California. 

In Jewett's narrative of a three years' residence among 
the savages at Nootka, in 1803-6, he gives the following 
description : " The sea-otter is nearly five feet in length, 
exclusive of the tail, which is about twelve inches long, 
and is very thick and broad where it joins the body, but 
gradually tapers to the end, which is tipped with white. 
The color of the rest is a shining, silky black, with the 
exception of a broad white stripe on the top of the head. 
Nothing can be more beautiful than one of these animals 
when seen swimming, especially when on the look-out 
for any object. At such times it raises its head quite 



92 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

above the surface, and the contrast between the shining 
black and white, together with its sharp ears, and a long 
tuft of hair rising from the middle of its forehead, which 
look like three small horns, render it a novel and attract- 
ive object. 

" The skin is held in great estimation in China, more 
especially that of the tail, which is finer and closer set 
than that on the body. 

" The value of a skin is determined by its size, that 
being considered as a prime skin which will reach in 
length from a man's chin to his feet. 

" The food of the sea-otter is fish, which he is very 
dexterous in taking, being an excellent swimmer, with 
feet webbed like those of a goose." 

At the time Jewett was on the coast, fire-arms had 
not come into general use, the bow and spear being the 
weapons. The otters then were not at all shy, and 
might be seen at any time swimming about. He men- 
tions seeing the old ones with their young, like so many 
rats, frolicking and sporting about in the most lively 
manner. They usually have four young ones at a time, 
born early in the spring. The sea-otter is never found 
in fresh water, or in any of the rivers of the interior. 
Like the seal, its home is in the salt water, and its haunts 
about the rocks and ledges of the coast. 

The river-otter, which abounds all over the Territory, 
may be taken easily either by traps, or by hunting with 
dogs, or shooting. I have had good sport chasing otters, 
for, once get them out of the water, although almost as 
spry as a cat, they are no match for a dog in speed ; but 
they are very savage when at bay, and, unless a dog is 
well trained, he is very likely to be hurt. These otters 
breed in holes either under some old stump or in the 
side of a hill, always being sure to have such ready ac- 
cess to the water that they can take to it on the least 
alarm. 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 95 

The "beaver is also found in incredible numbers, but 
as a description can be had in any work on natural his- 
tory, I will merely subjoin the following extract from 
Lewis and Clarke's description, which may interest some. 

" The beaver of this country is large and fat. The 
flesh is very palatable, and at our table was a real lux- 
ury. On the 7th of January, 1806, our hunter found a 
beaver in his traps, of which he made a bait for taking- 
others. This bait will entice a beaver to the trap as far 
as he can smell it, and this may fairly be stated to be at 
the distance of a mile, as their sense of smelling is very 
acute. To prepare beaver-bait, the castor or bark-stone 
is first gently pressed from the bladder-like bag which 
contains it into a vial of four ounces with a wide mouth. 
Five or six of these stones are taken, to which must be 
added a nutmeg, a dozen or fifteen cloves, and thirty 
grains of cinnamon, finely pulverized and stirred togeth- 
er, and as much ardent spirits added as will make the 
whole to the consistency of mustard. This must be 
carefully corked, as it soon loses its efficacy on exposure 
to the air. The scent becomes much stronger in four or 
five days after its preparation, and, with proper caution, 
will retain its efficacy for months. Any strong aromat- 
ic spices will answer, their sole virtue being to give va- 
riety and pungency to the scent of the bark-stone. 

" The male beaver has six stones, two of which con- 
tain a substance like finely pulverized bark, of a pale 
yellow color, and are called bark-stones or castor. Two 
others, which, like the bark-stones, resemble small blad- 
ders, contain pure strong oil, and are called oil-stones. 
The other two are the testicles." 

Formerly the Americans had a very extensive trade 
for furs on the Northwest Coast, and this was carried on 
principally by the merchants of Boston. The Indians, 
hearing the name of Boston so often repeated, supposed 



96 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

that to be the name of the country these people and ships 
came from ; consequently, all Americans are to this day 
called by the Northwest Coast Indians Boston tillicums, 
or Boston people. English, Scotch, and Irish are called 
King George people, and the French, Passaieux. The 
derivation of this last term I do not understand, but it 
is undoubtedly an Indian corruption of some Canadian 
French patois word. This Northwest fur trade has been 
gradually taken from the Americans by that grasping 
monopoly and incubus on all attempts at American en- 
terprise in the Territory, the Hudson Bay Company, 
who will be noticed more at length in another chapter. 

Whenever Kape or any of the Queniult people came 
down with their furs, they usually called at my place, 
as it was convenient for them to stop at to rest them- 
selves before they proceeded to the Columbia River, 
some forty miles distant. Kape generally, on such oc- 
casions, would remain all night. After supper he would 
open his sacks of skins and display the rich furs, with 
the expectation of inducing me to trade ; for, if he could 
make a sale in the Bay, it saved him the trouble of a 
long journey to Chenook and back. However, not de- 
siring to purchase, I contented myself with looking over 
his assortment, with the desire to gain information, and 
to see the variety of furs found along the coast. He 
seldom brought any others than the sea and river otter 
and beaver, but occasionally he had a few mink, sable, 
silver and red fox, and black bear skins. 

The whole coast region is full of fur animals, which 
have wonderfully increased during the last twelve or fif- 
teen years, from the fact that the Hudson Bay Company, 
having turned their attention to agricultural and mill 
purposes in their possessions around the Columbia, have 
not held out inducements to the Indians to procure furs, 
being more inclined to require their services in catching 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAT. 97 

salmon, or working among the lumber or on the farms, 
trusting to the other portions of their vast territories for 
their supplies of fur; hence there has been but little 
trapping or hunting in the whole Territory from the Co- 
lumbia to Fuca Straits, and wild animals have increased 
very fast as a consequence. 



CHAPTER VII. 



Visit to the Columbia River. — Our Troubles while crossing the Port- 
age. — Description of the Beach around Baker's Bay to Chenook. — 
Scarborough's Hill. — Captain Scarborough. — The Priest's House at 
Chenook. — Bill M'Carty or Brandywine. — Salmon-fishing at Che- 
nook. — Splendid View of Mount Saint Helen's. — Description of the 
Salmon and of the Fishery. — Indian Customs on the first Appear- 
ance of Salmon. — The present Remnant of the Chenook Tribe. — 
Description of Chenook Village. — Its favorable Location. — Washing- 
ton Hall, Esq., the Postmaster. — Indian Lodges. — A Description of 
the method of building them. — Our Return home, and the funny 
Scenes we passed through. — Old Champ and his Fish. 

Although I had been for several months a resident 
of Shoal-water Bay, I had not seen the Columbia, and, 
having an opportunity, I started in a sail-boat on Fri- 
day, June 3d, in company with Mr. F. Rotan (the owner 
of a schooner then loading in the Bay, and who was go- 
ing to x^storia to take the steamer for San Francisco), 
John W. Champ, and a young man named Baldt. It 
was nearly high tide, and the wind was blowing a fine 
breeze from the west, when the boat with the three indi- 
viduals came up the little river, and requested me to go 
with them. I was not long getting ready, and we were 
soon under weigh, going along at a fine rate. Champ 
remarked that, with the breeze we then had, we would 
reach AVilson's house at the portage before sundown, and 
then, crossing over to M'Carty 's house, on the other side 
of the portage, could take a canoe, which would carry us 

E 



9& THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, ' 

down the Wappalooche, or Chenook River, to its mouth, 
where we would land and walk to Chenook Beach. As 
"we could not expect to perform this feat that night, we 
proposed stopping at M'Cartj's, and start early in the 
morning. 

We had a verj pleasant sail for seventeen miles till 
we reached Long Island, when the wind began to die 
away, and by the time we reached Round Island, at the 
mouth of Bear River, it fell dead calm, and we were 
obliged to take the oars, and pull up the river against 
the tide, which was now running strong ebb. We had 
about three miles to go before reaching Wilson's house ; 
but it was now past sundown, and the wind, which had 
been from the west and northwest all day, now blew from 
the southeast in short puffs, with every indication of 
rain. As night closed in, it grew intensely dark, and it 
was with difficulty we reached the landing at Wilson's, 
and not till ten o'clock. 

Before we were all ashore it began to rain, and, to 
crown all, we found the house closed, the family having 
gone to Chenook to attend the fishery for salmon, which 
had just commenced. Rotan, who had been over the 
portage before and had stopped at the house, knew how 
to open the door, and we all went in ; but there was nei- 
ther wood cut, nor axe to cut with ; so we were obliged 
to go out and feel round under the trees for some dry 
branches and chips. While engaged in this occupation, 
old Champ slipped on a clay bank, and slid, otter fash- 
ion, plump into the spring, from whence he emerged wet, 
muddy, and angry. However, we managed to get some 
wood and make a roaring blaze, and, while old Champ 
was drying his clothes, the rest of us, having found some 
salt salmon and potatoes, and an iron pot, made out to 
boil a mess for supper, which we ate with a good appe- 
tite, and then lay down to sleep, Rotan and Baldt sleep- 



THEEE TEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 99 

ing in a bed which was in the front room, and Champ 
and myself rolled up in blankets before the fire, the old 
man having taken the precaution to hang his clothes up 
in the fireplace to dry, where also the others had set their 
boots and placed their hats for the same purpose. I was 
tired, and slept very soundly till toward morning, when I 
was waked up by a stream of water running through a 
hole in the roof directly into my ear. I found that it 
was storming violently, and the rain pouring down in 
torrents. Champ declared he had been kept awake all 
night by a bush-tailed rat, who was performing a waltz 
in an old tin baker which was on a table near by. The 
old fellow, however, was pretty comfortable, as his head 
was out of the wet. Thinking it time to get up, he reach- 
ed his hand into the fireplace for his pants, and was dis- 
gusted and enraged to find that a stream of water had 
been running directly through them and into his boots, 
which were full. The fireplace was a bed of mud. The 
pot of fish and potatoes left from our supper of last 
night was spoiled, and the boots and hats of E-otan and 
Baldt were drenched. I had slept with my clothes on, 
so the rain had not troubled me, and I came out perfect- 
ly dry. Although we were far from a merry mood, we 
could not help laughing at the intense indignation of 
Champ, who squeezed the water from his pantaloons 
with any thing but expressions of pleasure. As it was 
impossible to build a fire, we started off for a tramp over 
the portage to M'Carty's house, where we hoped to get 
some breakfast. The road was the one made by Mr. J. 
L. Brown, and was a mere cart-path, full of stumps and 
logg, over high hills and down deep valleys, soft from the 
rain, and nearly knee-deep with mud and water. Over 
this trail we climbed, and slipped, and splashed, and 
jumped, till finally we emerged from the woods at M'Car- 
ty's house, covered with mud, and wet to the skin from 



100 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

rain and the wet bushes we had passed through. M'Car- 
ty and his people were also absent at Chenook, catching 
salmon ; but an old hump-backed squaw in a lodge near 
by, who had remained to take care of the pigs and chick- 
ens, gave us a breakfast of broiled fish, cold water, and 
hard bread, while we dried our clothes at the lodge fire. 
While waiting for the tide, which was out, the rain 
ceased, and the wind, changing to the west, gave assur- 
ance of a pleasant day ; and by the time the tide was up 
enough to float the canoe, the sun shone out bright and 
warm, serving to cheer our spirits and dry our clothes, 
which were still somewhat damp, notwithstanding the 
smoke and heat of the fire in the lodge. The squaw 
carried us down to the mouth of the river, where we land- 
ed at the house of Mr. George Dawson, who had, like the 
rest of the settlers, gone to Chenook to fish. We had 
now to walk nine miles to reach the village, and our road 
lay for the whole distance over the beach ; but the tide 
rising very fast, and with a heavy surf from the efiects 
of the storm the previous evening, we were obliged to 
keep high up among the drift logs and loose sand, which 
impeded our progress, so that we did not reach the vil- 
lage till late in the afternoon. 

The beach from the W^appalooche River to Chenook 
Point forms the eastern side of Baker's Bay, at the mouth 
of the Columbia River. The view from this beach, look- 
ing westward, is directly out to sea. On the right, in 
the distance. Cape Disappointment, a blufi*, rocky prom- 
ontory, rears its weather-beaten and forbidding-looking 
front, and to the left the low sand-spit, called Point 
Adams, stretches far out into the river, while midway be- 
tween the two capes lies a sand-island covered with drift 
logs, timber, and the debris of the saw-mills up the river. 
All along the beach we were walking, the drift stuff of 
the river formed a continued row at high- water mark, 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 101 

where it had been thrown by the waves, and left by the 
receding tide. 

Huge trees that had been torn up by the roots, timber 
that had been prepared for the mill, logs of spruce, fir, 
cedar, and ash, sycamore and cotton wood, with boards, 
and joist, and scantling, were mixed in most inextricable 
confusion, and in a manner that nothing but the waves 
of ocean could have effected. As we approached Che- 
nook Point, the tide had fallen enough to enable ns to 
walk on firmer sand, and far enough down to clear all 
the drift stuff. As we turned the Point, the beautiful 
green hill known as Scarborough's Hill presented itself 
to our view. This hill, which is one of the most prom- 
inent objects seen while entering the Columbia, and 
which has the appearance of a green field, is a clearing 
which has been made either by accident or design, and 
is thickly covered with fern. Captain James Scarbor- 
ough, the owner of the claim, had for many years been 
in the employ of the Hudson Bay Company as master 
of one of their vessels trading on the coast, and, having 
left their service and taken a claim at Chenook, was offi- 
ciating as river pilot to the mail steamers from Califor- 
nia. The captain had a fine farm, with excellent fruit- 
trees, and a large herd of cattle. Like all old sea-cap- 
tains, he was fond of his own opinion, and was looked 
npon as a sort of oracle by the neighbors, and particularly 
by those who, like himself, had formerly been in the Com- 
pany's employ. Although he claimed to be an American 
citizen, as did also all these former employes of the 
Company, yet they never could forget the time when the 
Hudson Bay people held undisputed sway, and they 
looked upon the advent of the trading, swapping Yan- 
kees from across the plains with peculiar aversion, and 
lost no occasion to prejudice the minds of the Indians 
against the Boston tillicums, as all Americans are desig- 



102 THE NORTHWEST C30AST ; OR, 

nated. Still the old captain was a good man. He had 
received a good education, and always knew when he 
met a gentleman, and to any such he was at all times 
most courteous. He had good cause for his antipathy 
against the American population, having been swindled 
by some sharpers out of large sums of money at differ- 
ent times. 

Passing by Captain Scarborough's house, we next 
came to the dwelling of the Catholic priest, called by the 
Indians Le Plate, being as near as they can pronounce 
the French Le Pretre. This priest, who was a French- 
man, had resided at Chenook for several years, devoting 
his time to the conversion of the Indians, but with in- 
different success, the whole known fruits of his labors 
consisting in the various names he had baptized them 
with. This fact he afterward acknowledged in a letter 
written by him, on his return to France, to the post- 
master of Chenook. 

We now drew near the village proper, which consisted 
of some twelve or fourteen houses, occupied by whites, 
and nearly the same number of Indian lodges. It was 
in the beginning of the salmon season, and every one, 
from the priest to the Indians, was engaged in the fishery. 
Champ, who was our pilot, took us directly to M'Carty's 
quarters, who had a nice zinc house, and was driving a 
smart business in the fishery. M'Carty soon had an ex- 
cellent meal of fresh salmon set before us, which, with 
hard bread, and coffee with milk — a luxury I had not 
seen for months — enabled us to suppress our feelings of 
hunger which our walk on the beach had produced. 

Old Bill M'Carty, or, as he was called, old Brandy- 
wine, from having formerly sailed in the Brandywine 
frigate, had lived for several years on the Columbia Riv- 
er, and having married an Indian girl, a daughter of old 
Carcowan, chief of the Chehalis Indians, he had taken a 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 103 

claim at the portage we had just crossed, where he had 
a fine farm cleared and planted. M'Carty was a very 
hospitable man, and no one was ever refused by him ei- 
ther a night's lodging or a hearty meal. He was, how- 
ever, shortly after this time, drowned by the upsetting 
of a canoe, leaving a little daughter some ten or twelve 
years old. 

After we had eaten our supper and smoked our pipes, 
M'Carty advised us to go to bed, so as to be up in the 
morning to witness the salmon fishing. We readily 
complied with his suggestion, as we were both tired and 
sleepy. 

The next morning, at early "dawn, we were aroused by 
Mac, who was hallooing to his Indians to get ready for 
work. I went out and perched myself on a log that 
overlooked the busy scene. Looking up the river, al- 
most in a line due east. Mount St. Helen's reared its 
snowy head high in the region of the clouds. The rap- 
idly increasing morning rendered it distinctly visible, al- 
though a hundred miles in the interior. 

And now the whole population of the village was 
astir — white men and Indians, squaws, children, and 
dogs — all were awake and eager to enter upon the labors 
of the morning, and long before the sun was up all were 
intently engaged. 

The Chenook salmon commences to enter the river 
the last of May, and is most plentiful about the 20th 
of June. It is, without doubt, the finest salmon in the 
world, and, being taken so near the ocean, has its fine 
flavor in perfection. The salmon, when entering a river 
to spawn, do not at once proceed to the head-waters, but 
linger round the mouth for several weeks before they 
are prepared to go farther up. It has been supposed 
that they can not go immediately from the ocean to the 
cold fresh water, but remain for a time where the water 



104 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

is brackish before they venture on so great a change. 
Be that as it may, one thing is certain, that the early 
salmon taken at Chenook are far superior in flavor to 
any that are subsequently taken farther up the river, 
and this excellence is so generally acknowledged that 
Chenook salmon command a higher price than any other. 

These salmon resemble those of the Kennebec and 
Penobscot Rivers in Maine, but are much larger and fat- 
ter. I have seen those that weighed eighty pounds ; and 
one gentleman informed me that twelve salmon he had 
in his smoke-house averaged sixty-five pounds each, the 
largest weighing seventy-eight pounds. The Chenook 
fishery is carried on by means of nets. These are made 
by the whites of the twine prepared for the purpose, and 
sold as salmon-twine, and rigged with floats and sinkers 
in the usual style. The nets of the Indians are made 
of a twine spun by themselves from the fibres of spruce 
roots prepared for the purpose, or from a species of grass 
brought from the north by the Indians. It is very 
strong, and answers the purpose admirably. Peculiar- 
shaped sticks of dry cedar are used for floats, and the 
weights at the bottom are round beach pebbles, about a 
pound each, notched to keep them from slipping from 
their fastenings, and securely held by withes of cedar 
firmly twisted and woven into the foot-rope of the net. 

The nets vary in size from a hundred feet long to a 
hundred fathoms, or six hundred feet, and from seven to 
sixteen feet deep. 

Three persons are required to work a net, except the 
very large ones, which require more help to land them. 
The time the fishing is commenced is at the top of liigh- 
water, just as the tide begins to ebb. • A short distance 
from the shore the current is very swift, and with its aid 
these nets are hauled. Two persons get into the canoe, 
on the stern of which is coiled the net on a frame made 



i 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 107 

for the purpose, resting on the canoe's gunwale. She is 
then paddled up the stream, close in to the beach, where 
the current is not so strong. A tow-line, with a wooden 
float attached to it, is then thrown to the third person, 
who remains on the beach, and immediately the two in 
the canoe paddle her into the rapid stream as quickly as 
they can, throwing out the net all the time. When this 
is all out, they paddle ashore, having the end of the other 
tow-line made fast to the canoe. Before all this is ac- 
complished, the net is carried down the stream, by the 
force of the ebb, about the eighth of a mile, the man on 
the shore walking along slowly, holding on to the line till 
the others are ready, when all haul in together. As it 
gradually closes on the fish, great caution must be used 
to prevent them from jumping over ; and as every sal- 
mon has to be knocked on the head with a club for the 
purpose, which every canoe carries, it requires some skill 
and practice to perform this feat so as not to bruise or 
disfigure the fish. 

The fishermen are not always lucky. Sometimes the 
net is hauled repeatedly without success ; but in seasons 
of plenty, great hauls are often made, and frequently a 
hundred fine fish of various sizes are taken at one cast 
of the seine. It happened to be a good day while we 
were there, and M'Carty caught about forty, which was 
considered good fishing for so early in the season. The 
others did quite as well, some even getting more than he 
did. 

It was formerly the custom among the Chenook In- 
dians, on the appearance of the first salmon, to have a 
grand feast, with dancing and other performances suited 
to the occasion ; but the tribe has now dwindled down 
to a mere handful, and they content themselves simply 
with taking out the salmon's heart as soon as caught — 
a ceremony they religiously observe, fearful lest by any 



108 THE NORTHWEST COAST ; OR, 

means a dog should eat one, in which case they think 
they can catch no more fish that season. The fish taken 
by thfi whites are served in the same manner by the In- 
dians in their employ. 

As soon as the tide has done running ebb, the fishing 
for the day is over, and the Indians, after selecting what 
they wish for themselves, take the rest to the whites to 
trade oif for different articles, whisky in all cases holding 
the pre-eminence ; but, as the United States law is very 
stringent, and attended with a severe penalty, it is very 
difficult for them to get liquor at Chenook, although they 
can readily get it across the river at Astoria. They will 
manage some way or other to get it, even if they have 
to go a hundred miles for a supply. During the fishing 
season a good deal of drunkenness may be seen among 
them, and for the most part they are a miserable, whis- 
ky-drinking set of vagabonds. However, the race of the 
Chenooks is nearly run. From a large and powerful 
tribe in the days of Comcomly, the one-eyed chief, they 
have dwindled down to about a hundi'ed individuals, 
men, women, and children. 

We did not wait till the fishing was over for our 
breakfast, but, when the sun got up high enough to shine 
clear above the peak of Mount St. Helen's, old Brandy- 
wine called us up from the beach, and gave us a glorious 
repast of salmon, just out of the water, cooked in real 
Indian style by his Indian wife. 

The choice part of a salmon with the Indians is the 
head, which is stuck on a stick, and slowly roasted by 
the fire. The other part is cut into large, flat slices, 
with skewers stuck through to keep them spread ; then, 
placed in a split stick, as a palm-leaf fan is placed in its 
handle, with the ends of this stick or handle projecting 
far enough beyond the fish to be tied with a wisp of 
beach grass to secure the whole, this stick is thrust in 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 109 

the sand firmly and at the right distance from the fire, 
so that the fish can roast without scorching. Clam- 
shells are placed underneath to catch the oil, which will 
run from these rich, fat salmon almost in a stream. Nei- 
ther pepper, salt, nor butter were allowed during this cu- 
linary operation, nor did I find they were needed ; the 
delicate and delicious flavor would have been spoiled by 
the addition of either. 

I was so much pleased with this style of cooking sal- 
mon that I never wish to have it cooked in any other 
form, either boiled and served with melted butter, or fried 
with salt pork, or baked with spices. The simpler a fat 
salmon can be cooked, the better ; it retains its flavor 
with perfection, and is more easily digested; and the only 
style is to roast it before an open fire. 

After breakfast we went to the Hudson Bay Company 
trading store, kept by their very polite and hospitable 
agent, Mr. Eoc Ducheney. Mr. E,otan here purchased a 
new outfit to replace his damaged garments, which were 
about spoiled during our adventures on the portage, and, 
together with Champ, went across the Eiver to Astoria, 
where he was to take the steamer for San Francisco. 

Baldt and myself had nothing else to do but to stroll 
around and see the place. 

Chenook is situated on the north bank of the Colum- 
bia, near its mouth, where the river widens out into Ba- 
ker's Bay. From Point Ellice to Chenook Point, a dis- 
tance of about two miles, the land is little more than a 
sand-beach, from half a mile to a mile wide in its widest, 
and from twenty to fifty rods at its narrowest place, run- 
ning all the way under the bluff of a range of hills ter- 
minating at -Chenook Point with the high green hill 
known as Scarborough's Hill or Head. 

This is the head-quarters of the once powerful tribe 
of Chenook Indians, and it was here that their chief, 



110 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

Comcomlj, celebrated in the annals of Astoria, and men- 
tioned by Boss Cox, Lewis and Clarke, and Irving, held 
his sway. The tribe then was numerous ; but those 
scourges to the human race, measles and small-pox, have 
swept them off in such numbers that at present they 
number but little over a hundred persons, and these are 
a depraved, licentious, drunken set, of but little use to 
themselves, and of no account to any one else. Chenook 
has always been celebrated for its salmon fishery, and it 
was to prosecute this business that induced the whites 
to first settle there. It is, however, so favorably situated 
as a place of landing or debarkation for persons having 
business either at Astoria or up the river, that it is most 
generally the point resorted to by the settlers of Shoal- 
water Bay, and has grown to be a little village of con- 
siderable importance ; and no one seems to take a great- 
er interest in its welfare than the worthy postmaster, 
Washington Hall, Esq., who was one of the first to set- 
tle there. 

The little soil that has gathered on the sands is very 
rich, and yields good crops of garden vegetables, and, 
except in these cleared patches, is covered with bushes 
and young trees, thriftily growing to the edge of high- 
water mark. 

The Indian lodges, like all that I have seen on the 
Northwest Coast, are made of boards split from the ce- 
dar. The Indians perfonn this operation by means of 
little wedges, and manifest a good deal of dexterity and 
skill; for, if the wedges are not placed properly, the board 
will be full of twists and creeps. The lodges are strong- 
ly and comfortably made by first setting posts firmly into 
the ground four or five feet high, one at each corner. The 
tops of these posts are notched, and poles laid along to 
form the eaves. The ridge-pole is supported at its ends 
by the boards of the outside, which are placed upright, 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. Ill 

and in the centre by posts elevated for the purpose. 
From the eaves to the ridge-pole rafters are laid, and on 
these the boards of the roof are laid, with feather-edges 
overlapping each other to shed the rain, and secured bj 
withes to the rafters to keep from blowing oif in gales of 
wind. The sides and ends are formed of upright boards 
driven into the soil, with overlapping edges, and with 
chinks and crevices stopped up with moss. The top 
boards of the roof next the ridge-pole are movable, so as 
to be easily opened from the inside to admit a free pas- 
sao;e for the smoke. All round the interior of the lodo;e, 
next the side, are arranged sleeping-berths, similar to 
those on board vessels, and in front of these berths is a 
raised platform, five or six inches high, on which mats 
are spread to sit or lie upon. All the rest of the centre 
of the lodge floor is used for fire and for cooking pur- 
poses. Overhead, poles are laid, on which salmon, ber- 
ries, or any thing else they wish to preserve is placed to 
be dried by the smoke. At one end is the door, which 
is usually a round or oval hole, just big enough to creep 
through, and secured by a door made of a single piece 
of board, which hangs loose by a string, like a sort of 
pendulum, and is sure to close of itself after any ingress 
or egress. Some of these lodges are very large, and can 
contain several families. They are very comfortable hab- 
itations, and are often used by the white settlers while 
building their own houses. 

Baldt and myself went into several of these, to see the 
method the Indians adopted to cure their salmon. In 
all cases the women perform this duty. The salmon is 
split down the back, so as to separate the head, back- 
bone, ribs, and tail from the rest of the body. The back- 
bone, which has a large portion of the fish adhering to it, 
is generally eaten first, and is cooked either by boiling or 
roasting; the heads and tails are strung together and 



112 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

dried. The rest of the fish is sliced in thin wafers, and 
is also dried in the smoke without salt. When perfectly- 
cured, it is packed in baskets for winter's use or for 
trading, and stored in a drj place. For trading with 
the interior Indians, the salmon is frequently pounded 
up fine, and firmly pressed into baskets of ten or twelve 
pounds each. While the Indians are engaged in curing 
salmon, or when they are boiling the blubber of a whale 
or seal, they are as necessarily dirty as the crew of a 
whale-ship or butchers in a slaughter-house ; and at such 
times, casual visitors form an opinion that they are a 
filthy, greasy set, and we find many writers willing to 
assert that they regularly anoint their bodies with fish- 
oil and red ochre. Such, however, is not the fact. As 
soon as their work is done, they wash themselves, and 
generally bathe two or three times a day. All the paint- 
ing or oiling I have ever seen them do is to rub a little 
grease and vermilion, or red ochre, between their hands, 
and then smear it over their faces. The women will 
also paint the head, in the line of the parting of the hair, 
with dry vermilion, and give an extra touch to their eye- 
brows ; but I never have seen either men or women put 
oil or grease of any kind on their bodies. The women 
tattoo their legs and arms with dotted lines, but withj9ut 
any particular figure or design ; they are also fond, dur- 
ing the blackberry season, of dotting their limbs with 
blackbeiTy juice. The tattooing is done with charcoal 
and water, and pricked into the skin with needles. I 
very seldom saw a man with tattoo-marks on him, and it 
appears more as a sort of pastime — like sailors on board 
ship — than any sort of system or religious ceremony. 
Whatever may have been the former practice among the 
Chenook Indians relative to personal decoration, they 
certainly have relinquished the custom, and are only anx- 
ious at present to get white people's garments to clothe 






THKEE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 113 

themselves with, wearing, as their only ornament, a sort 
of band of black ostrich feathers round their caps, which 
they purchase of the Hudson Bay Company. 

As Champ did not return from Astoria till the after- 
noon, too late to start for our return to Shoal-water Bay, 
it was agreed to be ready early in the morning. We 
had all made purchases, and as to our own loads Champ 
wished to add two or three hundred pounds of salt sal- 
mon, we hired two Indians to take us in a canoe to 
M'Carty's portage, where old Mac had told us we might 
find his horse and pack-saddle, both of Avhich we could 
use to transport our things over to Wilson's landing. 

The next morning, after an early breakfast, we 
launched the canoe, and, having made room for an old 
gentleman who was waiting to go to the Bay (Mr. Sam- 
uel Woodward, Sen.), and getting all our things stowed, 
we began to look up our Indians, and found those wor- 
thies quite drunk ; but Champ, who officiated as master 
of ceremonies, soon got them into the canoe, one at the 
head and the other at the stern. One of these savages 
was old Toke, who, with his people, had been some time 
at Chenook, and the other a powerful fellow named Yan- 
cumux, who lived in Baker's Bay, and who owned the 
canoe. W^e paddled out into the stream, and were rap- 
idly carried by the swiftly-ebbing tide to Chenook Point, 
and from thence slowly made our way to the mouth of 
the Wappalooche River, which we entered ; and as the 
tide by that time was too low for us to go up, we went 
ashore at the lodge of an Indian named Sal-leel, who had 
been catching sturgeon, from which he prepared us a very 
palatable meal. 

As the tide rose we proceeded up the stream. There 
were two creeks, which joined near M'Carty's house, 
forming one, and, at certain stages of the tide, either of 
them could be used. Champ insisted on going up the 



114 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

first one we came to, but the Indians objected on account 
of a log which lay directly across, a short distance up. 
But Champ was determined ; so on we went till we 
came to the snag, which lay in such a manner that we 
could neither go under or over it. The Indians refused 
to go back, saying that they would remain till the tide 
rose, or, if we would help, they would put the canoe over 
the log. This was a feat we all considered impossible, 
for the canoe, with all our things, weighed over a ton ; 
so we decided to go ashore and walk to M'Carty's house, 
where we would wait for the canoe. , 

As we were going ashore, Yancumux asked me if I 
was afraid. I told him I was not, but I had no desire 
to sit in the canoe with old Toke and himself waiting 
for the tide. He said I would not have to wait long, as 
he was going to put the canoe over the log himself. I 
was curious to see the operation, and consented to wait. 
Both the Indians stripped themselves and jumped into 
the water, which was only a few inches deep, but the 
mud was soft, and they sank nearly to their waists in it. 
They placed themselves at the bow and stern ; and, as 
the bottom of the canoe, like all those of Chenook, was 
flat and smooth, they worked her gradually on the soft, 
greasy mud, up the side of the bank, till she was nearly 
as high as the log. The mud here was a little firmer, 
and I took hold and helped them, when, with a powerful 
jerk, we started her, and away she launched over the 
loo", and down the other side into the water, the Indians 
yelling and laughing all the time. The uproar caused 
Champ and Baldt to come and see what was the matter, 
and they were perfectly astonished at the wonderful feat 
of strength performed by those two half-drunken In- 
dians. 

While the tide was rising enough to enable us to get 
to the landing-place, we left the Indians and canoe to 



TPIREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 115 

hunt up the old squaw who had the key of the house 
where the pack-saddle was. 

After a long search, we found her, with two other 
squaws, picking berries, and soon had her back to the 
house and the saddle ready ; but, while we were hunt- 
ing for her, a couple of Indians had come from Shoal- 
water Bay,4Dringing some whisky with them, which they 
had given to our Indians, whom we found quite drunk 
again. They, however, started out for the horse, who 
was quietly feeding in the meadow. They could not 
catch him, after chasing him round for an hour. I told 
Champ I would wait no longer, but, with Baldt and old 
Mr. Woodward, would take what we could pack on our 
backs, and go over the portage to Wilson's house, where 
we would clean out the boat and get supper ready. 

The road had dried up since we had passed over it, 
and we found no difficulty in reaching Wilson's. As it 
was still daylight, we had time to clean the boat and get 
our supper ready. We waited till long after dark for 
Champ, who had not yet made his appearance, when, 
getting tired, we ate our supper, and, while smoking our 
pipes preparatory to going to bed, heard the voices of 
Indians singing. Baldt remarked that Champ must have 
pressed some new recruits into his service, for Toke and 
Yancumux were not in a condition, when we left them, 
to be very tuneful. The singers soon came in, and 
proved to be a couple of squaws that Champ had hired 
to help him pack his fish. He came in a few minutes 
afterward, and, as soon as he could get breath, related 
that he had loaded the two Indians with the fish, but, 
after they had proceeded a quarter of a mile, they threw 
down their loads, and using them as pillows, were soon 
sound asleep. The old fellow's outcries and frantic at- 
tempts to wake them had attracted the attention of the 
squaws, who were in the woods picking berries, and they 



116 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

went to find out the cause of the uproar, when Champ 
hired them, and left the two men fast asleep. 

We did not have a very pleasant night, for no sooner 
had we lain down than the house was filled with swarms 
of gnats and sand-flies, that filled our hair, nose, ears, 
and eyes, and stung us so that sleep was impossible, 
and we were glad at early dawn to get into the boat and 
start down the river for Shoal-water Bay. 

It was a glorious morning, rendered doubly delightful 
by the songs of myriads of birds, who filled the air with 
their sweet notes. As we proceeded down the stream, 
we roused great flocks of water-fowl — swans,-geese, and 
ducks of various kinds — which whirled away with a 
mighty rushing sound, aligliting a short distance in ad- 
vance, to be again and again startled as we proceeded on 
our course. Every where the paths of elk and deer 
could be seen, where they had broke through and beat 
down the sedge on the river banks as they had crossed 
the stream. Turning a sharp angle in the river, we 
came suddenly on a big black bear, who was seated on 
an old spruce stump that overhung the stream. In his 
hurry and fright he slipped, and fell some ten feet, with 
a great splash, into the water, out of which he scrambled 
with some trouble, and disappeared in the forest. We 
had no fire-arms w^ith us, or we could have shot plenty 
of game. 

We ran down the river and bay with the ebb tide in 
fine style, with every prospect of a quick trip, till we 
were nearly half way across, when Champ, who was pi- 
lot, ran us high and dry on a sand-bank, where we had 
to remain six hours for the returning flood. While 
waiting here, we amused ourselves by gathering oysters 
and clams, and in tracing out the course of the channel, 
which at low tide is distinctly visible and easily marked. 
I was not sorry for the opportunity of learning the right 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 117 

way to navigate up and down the Bay, and I never aft- 
erward got aground, altliough almost constantly cruising 
about the Bay and creeks. 

There is no difficulty at present for persons wishing 
to visit Shoal-water Bay, as usually boats can be had at 
the portage, or Indians can be hired at Chenook who 
will go through. This is the best method of traveling 
in any Indian country ; that is to say, always, whatever 
may be the party, have some Indians in the company, 
who are useful as guides or servants, and in a new coun- 
try are far better pilots than most of the white men that 
can be obtained. 

As soon as the tide had risen enough to float our boat, 
we made sail, and with a fair wind reached our quarters, 
not a little pleased to be at the termination of our cruise. 



CHAPTER YIII. • 



The Country of the Columbia. — Discovery of the Columbia. — Gray's 
Harbor. — The Coast north of the Columbia. — Fuca Strait. — Puget 
Sound. — Geographical Errors in naming Places. — Excellent Harbors. 
— Mount Olympus. — Separation of Washington from Oregon. — The 
Columbia and its Tributaries. — The Dalles. — Wappatoo Island. — 
Heceta's Voyage. — Attack by SaA-ages. — Point Grenville and De- 
struction Island. — Eiver St. Roc. — Vancouver. — Sloop Washington 
and Ship Columbia. — Captain Gray. — Lieutenant Broughton and the 
Brig Chatham. — Account of the Outfit of the Ship Columbia in 1787. 
— Captain John Kendrick. — Gray discovers the Columbia. — Building 
of the Adventure at Clyoquot. 

The region west of the Rocky Mountains drained by 
the Columbia and its tributaries, and which may properly 
be termed the Columbia country, is contained in the space 
between the forty-second and forty-ninth parallels, and is 
about four hundred thousand square miles in superficial 
extent. Its southernmost points are in the same lati- 
tude with Boston and with Florence, while its northern- 



118 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

most correspond with the northern extremities of New- 
foundland and with the northern shores of the Baltic 
Sea. 

The Pacific coast of this territory extends in a line 
nearly due north from the boundary between California 
and Oregon to Cape Flattery. The shores south of the 
Columbia are perilous to navigators, from the steep and 
rocky shores, and the presence of reefs and sand-bars. 
There are no large harbors on this line of the coast, but 
small vessels find safe anchorage at Port Orford, and 
can also enter the River Umpqua, a short distance north, . 
and also a small inlet named Coose Bay. 

North of the Columbia the coast is less beset with 
dangers, and offers the excellent harbor of Shoal-water 
Bay, where at high water vessels drawing eigliteen feet 
can safely enter. Immediately north of Shoal-water 
Bay, and directly under the forty-seventh parallel, is 
Gray's Harbor, a small port, safe and good for ves- 
sels of light draft. TJiis bay was discovered in May, 
1792, by Captain Robert Gray, of the ship Columbia, of 
Boston, and named by him Bulfinch Harbor, after one 
of the owners of his ship, though it is commonly called 
Gray's Harbor, and is frequently represented on the old 
English maps as Whidbey's Bay. 

North of Gray's Harbor there is no other bay or river 
that can be entered from the ocean, although several fine 
streams flow directly into the Pacific ; but their mouths 
are so choked up by the waves beating directly into them 
that they have openings scarce large enough to admit ca- 
noes. There are several rocks and islets lying between 
Gray's Harbor and Fuca Straits, but none of them are 
worthy of particular notice except Destruction Island, in 
latitude 47 J degrees, named by the captain of an Austrian 
ship in 1787, in consequence of the murder of some of 
his men by the natives of the adjacent country. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 119 

The Strait of Juan de Fuca is an arm of the sea sep- 
arating the great island of Quadra and Vancouver, or, as 
it is now called, Vancouver's Island, from the continent 
on the south and east. It extends from the ocean east- 
ward about one hundred miles, varying in breadth from 
ten to thirty miles, between the 48th and 49th parallels 
of latitude ; thence it turns to the northwest, in which 
direction it runs, first expanding into a long, wide bay, 
and then contracting into narrow and intricate passages 
among islands, three hundred miles farther, to its reun- 
ion with the Pacific under the 51st parallel. 

From its southeastern extremity, a great gulf, called 
Admiralty Inlet, stretches southward into the continent 
more than one hundred miles, dividing into many branch- 
es, of which the principal are, Hood's Canal on the west, 
and Puget Sound, the southernmost, extending nearly to 
the 47th parallel. This inlet possesses many excellent 
harbors, and the adjacent country being delightful and 
productive, make it one of the most valuable portions 
of the territory, agriculturally as well as commercially. 
A strange geographical error has gained credence in the 
commercial world of calling all the waters on the north 
of Washington Territory Puget Sound. 

This error has been principally caused by ignorant 
newspaper reporters, particularly those of San Francis- 
co, who always report vessels arriving froni any of the 
different harbors in Fuca Strait as from Puget Sound. 

There are many excellent harbors in the Strait of Fuca, 
of which the principal are Port Townsend, near the en- 
trance to Admiralty Inlet, said by Vancouver to be one 
of the best in the Pacific ; Neah Bay, called by Vancou- 
ver Poverty Cove, and by the Spaniards Port Nunez 
Gaona, situated a few miles east of Cape Flattery ; New 
Dungeness, False Dungeness, and Bellingham's Bay, an 
arm of the Gulf of Georgia ; while in Admiralty Inlet 



120 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

are several bays on Whidbey's Island, Seattle, Alki, and 
Tekalet, on Hood's Canal. Cape Flattery was named 
by Captain Cook. It is a conspicuous promontory, in 
the latitude of 48° 11\ near which is a large rock called 
Tatooche Island, united to the promontory by a rocky 
ledge, at times partially covered with water. 

The shore between the Cape and Admiralty Inlet is 
composed of sandy cliffs, overhanging a beach of sand 
and stones. From it the land gradually rises to a chain 
of mountains stretching southwardly along the Pacific 
to the vicinity of the Columbia, the highest point of 
which received, in 1788, the name of Mount Olympus. 

The whole of this region was organized as the Territo- 
ry of Oregon, by which name it was known till 1853, when 
it was separated into two territories, that lying north of 
the Columbia being called Washington. The Columbia 
is the dividing line between the two terntories from its 
mouth to near Fort Walla Walla, wliere the 49th paral- 
lel is the boundary the rest of the distance. *' This 
magnificent river," says Greenhow, "enters the Pacific 
Ocean between two points of land seven miles apart — 
Cape Disappointment on the north, and Cape Adams on 
the south, of which the former is in the latitude of 46° 
16^ (corresponding nearly with Quebec, in Canada, and 
Geneva, in Switzerland), and in longitude 47° west from 
Washington, or 124° west from Greenwich. The main 
river is formed at the distance of two hundred and fifty 
miles from its mouth by the union of two large streams,' 
one from the north, which is usually considered as the^ 
principal branch, and the other, called Snake River, from 
the southeast. These two great confluents receive in 
their course many other streams, and thus they collect 
together all the waters flowing from the western sides of 
the Rocky Mountains, between the 42d and the 54th par- 
allels of latitude. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 121 

" The northern branch of the Columbia rises in the 
Rocky Mountains, near the 53d degree of latitude. One 
of its head-waters, the Canoe River, runs from a small 
lake situated in a remarkable cleft of the great chain 
called the Punch Bowl, at the distance of only a few feet 
from another lake, whence flows the westernmost stream 
of the Athabasca River, a tributary to the Mackenzie, 
emptying into the Arctic Sea. This cleft is described 
by those who have visited it as presenting scenes of 
the most terrific grandeur, being overhung by the highest 
peaks in the dividing range, of which one, called Mount 
Brown, is not less than sixteen thousand feet, and anoth- 
er. Mount Hooker, exceeds fifteen thousand feet above 
the ocean level. 

" At a place called Boat Encampment, near the 52d 
degree of latitude. Canoe River joins two other streams, 
the one at the north, the other, the largest of the three, 
running along the base of the Rocky Mountains from 
the south. The river thus formed, considered as the 
main Columbia, takes its course nearly due south through 
defiles between lofty mountains, being generally a third 
of a mile in width, but in some places spreading out into 
broad lakes, for about three hundred miles, to the lati- 
tude of 48^ degrees, where it receives the Flatbow or 
M'Gillivray's River, a large branch, flowing also from the 
Rocky Mountains on the east. 

" A little farther south, the northern branch unites 
with the Clarke or Flathead River, scarcely inferior, in the 
quantity of water supplied, to the other. The sources of 
the Clarke are situated in the dividing range, near those 
of the Missouri and Yellow Stone, whence it runs north- 
ward along the base of the mountains, and then west- 
ward, forming, under the 48th parallel, an extensive sheet 
of water called the Kullerspelm Lake, surrounded by rich 
tracts of land, and lofty mountains covered with noble 

F 



122 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

trees. From this lake the river issues in a large and 
rapid stream, and, after running about seventy miles 
westward, it falls into the north branch of the Columbia 
over a ledge of rocks. From the point of union of these 
two rivers the Columbia turns toward tlie west, and 
rushes through a ridge of mountains, where it forms a 
cataract called the Chaudiere or Kettle Falls. Contin- 
uing in the same direction eighty miles, between the 48th 
and 49th parallels, it receives, in succession, the Spokan 
from the south, and the Okinagan from the north, and 
from the mouth of the latter it pursues a southwardly 
course for one hundred and sixty miles to its junction 
with the great southern branch, near the 47th degree of 
latitude." 

Of the great southern branch of the Columbia, the 
Snake River, the farthermost sources are situated in deep 
valleys or holes of the Rocky Mountains, near the 42d 
degree of latitude, within short distances of those of the 
Yellow Stone, the Platte, and the Colorado. The most 
eastern of these head- waters, considered as the main riv- 
er, issues from Pierre's Hole, between the Rocky Mount- 
ains and a parallel range called the Tetons, from three 
remarkable peaks resembling teats, which rise to a great 
height above the others. Running westward, this stream 
unites successively with Henry's Fork from the north, 
and the Portneuf from the south. Some distance below 
its junction with the latter, the Snake enters the defile 
between the Blue Mountains on the west and another 
rocky chain, called the Salmon River Mountain, on the 
east, and takes its course northwestward for about six 
hundred miles to its union with the northern branch, 
receiving many large streams from each side. The 
principal of these influent streams are the Malade, or 
Sickly River, the Boise, or Reed's River, the Salmon 
River, and the Kooskooske, from the east, and the Mai- 



THREE TEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 123 

heur and Powder Eiver from the Blue Mountains on the 
west. 

Of these two great branches of the Columbia and the 
streams tliat fall into them, scarcely any portion is nav- 
igable by the smallest vessels for more than thirty or 
forty miles continuously. The northern branch is much 
used by the British traders for the conveyance of their 
furs and merchandise, by means of light canoes, which, 
as well as their cargoes, are carried by the boatm^en 
around the falls and rapids so frequently interrupting 
their voyage. The Snake River and its streams offer 
few^ advantages in that way, as they nearly all rush, in 
their whole course, through deep and nan*ow chasms be- 
tween perpendicular rocks, against which a boat would 
be momentarily in danger of being dashed by the cur- 
rent. 

From the point of junction of these two branches, the 
course of the Columbia is generally westward to the 
ocean. A little below that point it receives the Walla 
Walla, and then, in succession, the Umatilla, John Day's 
Eiver, and the Chutes, or Falls River, all flowing from 
the south, and some others of less size from the north. 
Near the mouth of the Falls River, eighty miles below 
the Walla Walla, are situated the Chutes^ or Falls of the 
Columbia, where the great stream enters a gap in the 
Cascade range of mountains. Four miles farther down 
are the Dalles (a coiTuption of the French D'xlller, a 
term, as I was informed, applied by the Canadian French 
to the raceway of a mill, which this part of the river re- 
sembles). The Dalles are rapids formed by the passage 
of the water between vast masses of rock ; and thirty 
miles below these are the Cascades, a series of falls and 
rapids extending more than half a mile, at the foot of 
which the tides are observable, at the distance of a hund- 
red and twenty miles from the Pacific. 



124 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

A few miles below the Cascades, a large river, called 
the Willamet (the Multnomah of Lewis and Clarke), en- 
ters the Columbia from the south by two mouths, be- 
tween which is an extensive island named Wappatoo 
Island, from an edible root {Sag gita folia) so called, 
found growing upon it in abundance. Twenty -five 
miles from the mouth of this river are its falls, where its 
waters are precipitated over a ledge of rocks more than 
forty feet in height. Beyond this point the Willamet 
has been traced about two hundred miles, in a tortuous 
course, through a narrow but fertile valley, to its sources 
in the Coast Range mountains, near the 43d degree of 
latitude. In this valley were formed the earliest agTicul- 
tural settlements by citizens of the United States west 
of the Rocky Mountains. 

Descending the Columbia forty miles from the lower 
mouth of the Willamet, we find a small stream, called 
the Cowlitz, entering it from the north ; and thirty miles 
lower down, the great river, which is nowhere above more 
than a mile wide, expands to the breadth of four, and in 
some places of seven miles, before mingling its waters 
with those of the Pacific. It, however, preserves its 
character as a river, being rapid in its current, and per- 
fectly fresh and potable to within a league of the ocean, 
except during the very dry seasons and the prevalence 
of violent westerly winds. 

The discovery of the Columbia, which has been the 
cause of so much controversy between England and 
America, is now universally awarded to Captain Robert 
Gray, of the ship Columbia, of Boston. But Gray was, in 
fact, the rediscoverer, as the river was first seen by Cap- 
tain Bruno Heceta, commanding the Spanish ship San- 
tiago, on the 15th of August, 1775. The ship was ac- 
companied by a small schooner called the Sonora, com- 
manded by Lieutenant Juan Francisco de la Bodega y 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 125 

Quadra. These two vessels sailed together from San 
Bias on the loth of March, 1775, and, after stopping at 
various places on the coast, came to anchor on the 10th 
of June in a small roadstead, where thej landed, and 
took possession of the country in the name of their sov- 
ereign with religious ceremonies, bestowing upon the har- 
bor the name of Port Trinidad. After having erected a 
cross near the shore with an inscription, setting forth 
the fact of their having visited the place and taken pos- 
session of it, they sailed for the north on the 19th of 
June, and were obliged to keep out of sight of land for 
three weeks, at the end of which time they again came 
in sight of it, in the latitude of 48° 27^. Here they ex- 
pected to find the Straits of Fuca, but, being disappoint- 
ed, they came to anchor near the land, though at some 
distance from each other, to procure wood and water, 
and to trade with the natives. 

Here a severe misfortune befell the schooner Sonora 
on the 14th of July. Seven of her men, who had been 
sent ashore in her only boat, although well armed, were 
attacked and murdered by the natives immediately they 
had landed, and it was with difficulty the savages were 
prevented from boarding the schooner, which was sur- 
rounded during the whole day by the Indians, in great 
numbers, in their canoes. 

In commemoration of this melancholy event, the place 
was called Punta de !Martires — Martyrs' Point. It is 
in the latitude of 47° 20^, and on English maps is called 
Point Grenville. A small island, situated a few miles 
farther north, was also named Isla de Dolores — Isle of 
Sorrows. Twelve years afterward, this same island was 
named by the captain of the ship Imperial Eagle, of Os- 
tend. Destruction Island, in consequence of a similar 
massacre of some of his crew by the Indians on the main 
land opposite. These Indians are known as the Quaitso 



126 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

tribe, and those at Point Grenville as the Queniult, and 
were formerly very savage and dangerous. 

This disaster, together with the appearance of the scur- 
vy among the crew, decided Heceta to return to Monte- 
rey ; but he was opposed by Bodega, and finally gave 
his unwilling consent to proceed north, which they did 
on the 20th of July. They were, however, shortly aft- 
erward separated in a storm, whereupon Heceta determ- 
ined to go back to Monterey, while Bodega persevered in 
his endeavors to accomplish as far as possible the object 
of his expedition. 

After Heceta parted company with the schooner he 
steered south, and on the 15th of August arrived oppo- 
site an opening, in the latitude of 46° 17^, from which 
rushed a current so strong as to prevent his entering it. 
This circumstance convinced him that it was the mouth 
of some great river. He, in consequence, remained in 
its vicinity another day, in the hope of ascertaining the 
ti'ue character of the place ; but still being unable to en- 
ter the opening, he continued his voyage toward the 
south. 

This opening in the coast thus discovered Heceta 
ndim^d. U^isenada de Asuncion — Assumption Inlet ; call- 
ing the north point Cape San Koque, and that on the 
south Cajpe Frondoso — Leafy Cape. In the chart pub- 
lished at Mexico soon after the conclusion of the voy- 
age, the entrance is, however, called Ensenada de Heceta 
— Heceta's Inlet, and Rio de San Roque — Biver of St. 
Roc. Greenhow remarks that it was undoubtedly the 
mouth of the greatest river on the western side of Amer- 
ica, the same which in 1792 was first entered by the ship 
Columbia, and the evidence of its first discovery by He- 
ceta is unquestionable. 

Thirteen years afterward, Meares, as has already been 
stated, attempted to find this Biver of St. Boc, but with- 



I 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 127 

out success. After changing the name of Cape San 
Roque to Cape Disappointment, in token of his failure, 
he writes, " We can now with safety assert that there is 
no such 7'iver as that of /St, Roc exists as laid down on 
Spanish charts." 

In 1792 Vancouver sailed up the coast, and when m 
the latitude of 46° 19^ he came up with Cape Disap- 
pointment, and, considering the opening of the Columbia 
to be what I^Ieares had previously named Deception Bay, 
he writes, ''^Not coiisidering this opening worthy of more 
aif^6?^^^6>;^, I continued our pursuit to the northwest," be- 
ing satisfied "that all the rivers or inlets that had been 
described as discharging their contents into the Pacific 
between the 40th and the 48th degrees of north latitude 
were reduced to brooks insufficient for our vessels to 
navigate^ or to bays inaccessible as harbors for refitting." 

On the 29th of April, 1792, Vancouver spoke the Co- 
lumbia, of Boston, commanded by Eobert Gray, who in- 
formed him that he had lain off the mouth of a river in 
the latitude of 46° 10^, where the outset or reflux was 
so strong that for nine days he was prevented from en- 
tering it ; but as Vancouver had passed the same place 
on the forenoon of the 27th, he gave no credit to Captain 
Gray's statement, and writes " that if any inlet or river 
should be found, it must be a very intricate one, and in- 
accessible to vessels of our burden, owing to the reefs 
and broken water." 

Satisfied with his conclusions, Vancouver continued 
on to the north, while Captain Gray, determined to as- 
certain the truth of his belief that he had seen the mouth 
of a river, proceeded on his course south. It was while 
in command of the sloop Washington, in August, 1788, 
that Gray discovered and attempted to enter the open- 
ing near the 46th degree of latitude; but the sloop 
grounded on the bar and came near being lost, and was 



128 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

also attacked by the Indians, who killed one man and 
wounded the mate ; but she escaped without farther in* 
jury, and reached Nootka on the 17th of September. 

Gray T^as shortly afterward transferred to the com- 
mand of the Columbia, and returned to Boston, and was 
now on another cruise, 1792. 

After parting with the English commander, Gray 
sailed along the coast south, and on the 7th of May he 
discovered, in latitude 46° 58^ the entrance to a bay, 
which he passed through, and found himself in a good 
harbor, " well sheltered from the sea by long sand-bars 
and spits," where he remained three days trading with 
the natives. 

He named this place Bulfinch Harbor, but it is now 
known as Gray's Harbor. 

At daybreak on the 11th he resumed his voyage, and 
shortly afterward discovered "the entrance of his de- 
sired port bearing east-southeast distant six leagues ;" 
and unlike ]\Ieares and Vancouver, who had pronounced 
the breakers impassable, he boldly steered between them, 
with all sail set, and at one o'clock anchored "ma large 
river of fresh water ^^'' ten miles above its mouth, where 
he remained three days engaged in trading with the na- 
tives and filling his casks with water, and then sailed up 
some ten or twelve miles farther along the northern 
shore, where he came to anchor, being unable to proceed 
any farther from having, as he writes, "taken the wrong 
channel." During the following week several attempts 
were made to go to sea, but they were unable to cross 
the bar till the 20th, when, a fresh breeze springing up 
from the west, they beat the ship out, and at five P. M. 
were clear of aU the bars and in twenty fathoms of 
water. 

On leaving the river, Captain Gray gave it the name 
of liis ship, the Columbia^ a name it has ever since re- 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAT. 129 

tained, and also named the sand-bank which makes out 
from the southern side of the entrance Point Adams, and 
the bhiff, rocky promontory on the northern side he 
called Cape Hancock, but afterward changed it to Cape 
Disappointment, on learning that Meares had previously 
bestowed that name upon it. 

After leaving the Columbia Gray proceeded to Koot- 
ka, where he met the Spanish commander Quadra, to 
whom he gave a rough chart of the river. Vancouver, 
who had been prosecuting his discoveries in the Straits 
of Fuca, returned to Nootka, where he was furnished by 
Quadra with copies of the charts given him by Gray. 

On the 13th of October, 1792, he saikd from Nootka 
with his three vessels, the Discovery, Daedalus, and 
Chatham, and on the 17th, being opposite the entrance 
to Gray's Harbor, he detached Lieutenant Whidbey, in 
the Daedalus, to examine the bay, while he himself pro- 
ceeded with the other vessels to the Columbia. Being 
still convinced of the impossibility of his ship passing 
the bar, he continued his course south for the Bay of 
San Francisco, leaving Lieutenant Broughton, in the brig 
Chatham, to enter the river, which he did without diffi- 
culty on the 20th of October, and to his surprise found 
the brig Jenny, of Bristol, Captain Baker, lying there 
at anchor, having arrived from Nootka a few days pre- 
vious. Lieutenant Broughton then proceeded up the 
river in his boat eighty miles, when, finding the current 
too strong for them to proceed without great labor, they 
abandoned the survey and returned to the brig. 

The point of land where they were obliged to relin- 
quish their design was named Point Vancouver, and an 
inlet on the north shore of the river, where Gray had 
anchored, was named Gray's Bay, and another inlet, 
immediately inside Cape Disappointment, was named 
Baker's Bay, in compliment to the captain of the brig 

F2 



130 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

Jenny. Both the Chatham and Jenny sailed from the 
Columbia on the 10th of November, and arrived at San 
Francisco before the end of the month. Greenhow re- 
marks " that, had Gray, after parting with the English 
ships, not returned to the river and ascended it as he did, 
there is every reason to believe that it would have long 
remained unknown ; for the assertions of Vancouver that 
no opening^ harbor, or jplace of refuge for vessels was 
to he found between Cape Mendocino and the Strait of 
Fuca, and that this part of the coast formed one com- 
pact, solid, and nearly straight barrier against the sea, 
would have served completely to overthrow the evidence 
of the American fur-trader, and to prevent any further 
attempts to examine those shores, or even to approach 
them." 

As the names of Robert Gray and his ship will always 
be remembered in connection with the Columbia River, 
Gray's Bay, and Gray's Harbor, a brief statement of the 
original outfitting from Boston will be of interest. 

In 1787, some merchants of Boston, who were engaged 
in the China trade, finding that, from the inferiority of 
the articles of American manufacture, they were unable 
to cope with the English or other foreign nations in the 
Canton market, formed an association for the purpose of 
combining the fur- trade with the traffic in teas and silks. 
The names of these copartners were Messrs. Barrell, 
Brown, Bulfinch, Darby, Hatch, and Pintard. 
' During the summer of 1787 they fitted out the ship 
Columbia, of two hundred and twenty tons, and the sloop 
Washington, of ninety tons, and loaded them with blank- 
ets, knives, iron bars, copper pans, and other articles 
proper for the trade with the Northwest Indians. 

The Columbia was commanded by John Kendrick, 
who had also the command of the expedition. The name 
of the mate was Joseph Ingraham. 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 



131 



The Washington was commanded by Robert Gray. 
They also carried with them, for distribution among the 
natives, a number of halfpence recently coined by the 
State of Massachusetts, and also medals of copper struck 
expressly for the purpose, having a representation of the 
ship and sloop, with their names and that of Captain 




Kendrick on one side, and the names of the owners, 
with the date and object of the enterprise, on the re- 
verse. These medals are but rarely met with at the pres- 
ent time. The two vessels sailed from Boston on the 30th 
of September, 1787, and, after touching at the Cape 
Yerde and Falkland Islands, they proceeded on their 
voyage, and in January, 1788, doubled Cape Horn, where 
they were separated during a violent gale. Nootka hav- 
ing been appointed as the place of rendezvous, both ves- 
sels steered for it. They did not reach the Northwest 
Coast till the following August, when, as has before 
been mentioned. Gray first saw the mouth of the Co- 
i lumbia, where he came near losing the sloop Washing- 
ton, and it was not till the 17th of September that he 
reached Nootka, having been nearly a year out from 
Boston. 

The Columbia arrived a few days after, and the two 



132 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

vessels remained in Nootka Sound all winter, the Wash- 
ington occasionally making short trading excursions 
north and south for furs, which were placed on board the 
Columbia, who remained at anchor, xlfter the ship was 
loaded, it was agreed between the two captains that Gray 
should take command of the Columbia and proceed to 
Canton, while Kendrick should remain on the coast and 
take charge of the sloop. Gray accordingly proceeded 
to Canton, where he arrived on the 6th of December, 
1789, and, having sold his furs and taken in a cargo of 
tea, he sailed for Boston, where he arrived on the 10th 
of August, 1790, having carried the flag of the United 
States for the first time round the world. Gray, having 
speedily refitted his ship, again sailed from Boston on 
the 28th of September (1790), and arrived at Clyoquot, 
near the entrance to the Straits of Fuca, on the 5th of 
June, 1791. AYhile trading and exploring the islands 
and coast in the vicinity of Queen Charlotte's Island, 
he met with a melancholy accident at a place called 
by him Massacre Cove. His second mate, named Cas- 
well, and two men, were murdered there on the 22d of 
August. 

The Columbia wintered at Clyoquot, where her crew 
built a small vessel called the Adventure. This was the 
second vessel built on the Northwest, Meares having 
constructed one at Nootka during the year 1788, which 
was named the Northwest America. Jj 

The following spring of 1792, as has already been re- a 
lated. Gray sailed south for the purpose of exploring the 
Columbia, which purpose he effected ; and, after leaving 
the mouth of the river, sailed to the east coast of Queen 
Charlotte's Island, where his ship struck on a rock, and 
was so much injured that she was with difficulty kept 
afloat till she reached Nootka, where she was repaired ; 
and as soon as Gray had completed his business, he 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 133 

sailed for Canton in September, and thence to the United 
States. 

Gray continued to command trading vessels from Bos- 
ton till 1809, about which time he died. 



^ CHAPTER IX. 

The Oystermen celebrate the 4th of July. — A Speech and a great Bon- 
fire. — Ai'rival of Emigrants. — Colonel H. K. Stevens. — Fishing-party 
on the Nasal River. — We go up the River to an Indian Camp. — Meth- 
od of catching Salmon. — We catch rotten Logs. — The Colonel falls 
overboard. — A Chase after a Salmon. — Indian Style of catching 
Trout. — Their Medicine to allure Fish. — Immense Quantities of Sal- 
mon in Shoal-water Bay. — Wreck of Brig Palos. — Description of my 
House. — High Tides. — Quantities of Wild-fowl. — A Gale of Wind. 
— Heavy Rain. — The Oale increases, and blows down our Chimney. 
— Damage done by the Storm. — Narrow Escape from being killed by 
a falling Precipice. — Arrival of Indians. — Pepper Coifee. — Ludicrous 
Plight of the Natives. — Their Superstition. — They try to shoot a 
Ghost. — They are scared by a Pumpkin Lantern. — Poisoning Crows. 
— Method of preserving Cabbages from the Indians. 

After my return from Chenook, nothing of any par- 
ticular interest transpired till toward the first of July, 
when it was announced to me that the boys, as the oys- 
termen were termed, intended celebrating the 4th of July 
at my tent ; and accordingly, as the time drew near, all 
hands were engaged in making preparations ; for it was 
not intended that I should be at the expense of the cel- 
ebration, but only bear my proportionate part. The day 
was ushered in by a tremendous bonfire, which Baldt 
and myself kindled on Pine Island, which was answered 
by every one who had a gun and powder blazing away. 
Toward two o'clock they began to assemble, some coming 
in boats, others in canoes, and a few by walking round 
the beach, which they could easily do at any time after 
the tide was quarter ebb. 

Each one brought something: one had a great oys- 



134 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

ter pie, baked in a milk-pan ; another had a boiled 
ham ; a third brought a cold pudding ; others had pies, 
doughnuts, or loaves of bread ; and my neighbor Rus- 
sell came, bringing with him a long oration of his own 
composing, and half a dozen boxes of sardines. When 
all were assembled, the performances were commenced 
by the reading of the Declaration of Independence by 
Mr. St. John, extracts from Webster's oration at Boston 
on Adams and Jefferson, then Russell's oration, which 
was followed by the banquet, and after that a feu-de- 
joie by the guns and rifles of the whole company. 

These ceremonies over, it was proposed to close the 
performances for the day by going on top of the cliff op- 
posite, and make a tremendous big blaze. This was 
acceded to, and some six or eight immediately crossed 
the creek and soon scrambled to the top of the hill, 
where we found an old hollow cedar stump about twenty 
feet high. We could enter this on one side, and found 
it a mere shell of what had once been a monster tree. 

I had with me a little rifle, which measured, stock and 
all, but three feet long. With this I measured across 
the space, and found it was just six lengths of my rifle, 
or eighteen feet, and the tree undoubtedly, when sound, 
must have measured, with the bark on, at least sixty 
feet in circumference. 

We went to work with a will, and soon had the old 
stump filled full of dry spruce limbs, which were lying 
about in great quantities, and then set fire to the whole. 
It made the best bonfire I ever saw ; and after burning 
all night and part of the next day, finally set fire to tlie 
forest, which continued to burn for several -months, till 
the winter rains finally extinguished it. The party 
broke up at an early hour, and all declared that, with the 
exception of the absence of a cannon, they never had a 
pleasanter "fourth." 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 135 

The emigrants now began to come into the Bay, and 
" claims'' of land were taken up on all sides. Among 
others who came to settle was an old friend, Colonel H. 
K. Stevens, who, with a friend named Hinckley, had 
taken a claim on the Nasal River, which he had named 
the Kennebec. The colonel was not a colonel then ; he 
had not been elected to that high office at that early day. 
He was simply Harry Stevens, and remained as such 
until the ensuing year, when the residents, feeling a 
dread of the aborigines, chose him as their leader. 

He had brought some goods over from the Columbia 
to trade with, and intended to build a store on the Point, 
where he had located himself. Although I had been re- 
peatedly urged by him to make a visit to the Nasal, I 
never found any fitting opportunity till toward the last 
of August, when the salmon first begin to run up the 
rivers of Shoal-water Bay. 

One day old Toke came to me with the information 
that there were plenty of salmon in the Nasal, and he 
w^ished to borrow my large canoe, as his was not large 
enough to carry all his people. I consented, provided I 
could go with them ; to this he gladly assented, and we 
soon got our things ready for a week's sport. After we 
had safely stowed our blankets, guns, hooks, spears, and 
provisions, we started ofi*, with my little canoe in tow to 
act as a tender. The Nasal was distant about eighteen 
or twenty miles, and as the Indians did not feel in any 
hurry, we did not reach the mouth of the river till after 
dark ; when, not seeing any light or signs of Stevens's 
house, we went ashore on the opposite side of the river, 
where there was a fine spring, near which we made our 
camp, and remained all night. 

A person traveling with Indians, particularly in ca- 
noes, should make up his mind not to be in a hurry; 
they move just as it suits them. If the wind is fair, 



136 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

they make sail if they have one, or, in lieu of that, will 
hoist a blanket, and go as the wind blows. But if it is 
ahead or is calm, they paddle along in a very lazy sort of 
manner. If night is likely to overtake them before getting 
to their destination, they always try to go ashore before 
dark, where they can find fresh water and make a good 
camp ; and when their fire is made and their supper cook- 
ed, they feel as much at home as if in their own lodge. 
There is no hurrying with them to reach the next tavern, 
or, like the youth tied to his mother's apron-strings, feel- 
ing obliged to be at home when the bell rings for nine 
o'clock in the evening. Wherever night finds them, 
there they rest, and sleep secure. Our party slept so 
well that it was sunrise before we awoke the next morn- 
ing. After we had washed our eyes open, we discovered 
the smoke of Stevens's fire nearly opposite, and shortly 
paddled across the river, where I met with a most cor- 
dial welcome from the colonel and his friend Hinckley, 
and another person who had joined him, Mr. Yan Cleave. 
After we had finished breakfast, we all started up the 
river for a camp ten miles distant, where a party of In- 
dians were engaged catching salmon, and where our In- 
dians proposed stopping. Stevens got into the big ca- 
noe with me. Van took the small canoe we had been tow- 
ing, and Hinckley took a small boat or batteau he own- 
ed. In this style we proceeded, sometimes with sail 
and then with paddle, and at length reached the camp 
about three P.^I. As far as we went we found the Na- 
sal a fine deep stream, flowing through rich prairie-lands, 
some of which were free from timber, and covered with a 
heavy crop of grass, and the rest covered with a growth 
of fine spruce and fir trees, very readily accessible to the 
stream, presenting great inducements for settlers to lo- 
cate on them. 

On arriving at camp, we found the Indians who were 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 137 

already there liad plenty of salmon, which they were 
drying for winter's use. They gave us a hearty meal, 
and then it was proposed tliat, while the Indians were 
preparing our camp, we should try our luck at the fish- 
ery. I got into my small canoe with two Indians who 
came with me, George and Peter, while Van Cleave and 
Stevens took the batteau. We proceeded up the stream 
about a mile, where we commenced floating down with 
the ebb. The water was from ten to tw^enty feet deep, 
and the process of catching the salmon was as follow^s : 

The hooks, which have been described, after being 
properly adjusted to the poles, which were about twenty 
feet long, are put over the side and held in a vertical 
position, keeping the hook just clear of the bottom. It 
is usual to have but two persons in a canoe, one to steer, 
and the other, who sits at the bow, to fish. As the boat 
drifts down with the tide, the pole, with the hook attach- 
ed to it, comes in contact w^ith the salmon, who, when not 
in active motion, usually lie near the bottom, and are 
generally quiet as soon as the tide begins to ebb. 

As soon as the Indian feels the fish, he jerks up the 
pole, and rarely fails to fasten the hook into the salmon, 
who is then pulled on board and knocked on the head. 
The whole operation requires a great deal of dexterity 
and practice, not only to distinguish the difference be- 
tween a salmon and old logs, with which the bottoms of 
the rivers are usually covered, but also to get the fish 
into the canoe ; for the salmon is a very powerful fish, 
and a large one makes a great commotion when hauled 
to the surface of the water, splashing and thrashing about 
in a fearful manner. 

We had drifted down a short distance, when I found 
that it was useless for me to attempt fishing. I had 
hauled up no less than five respectable-sized logs of 
wood, each time sure I had a salmon, wlule George, who 



138 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

sat in the bow of the canoe, was pulling in the real Si- 
mon Pure ones as fast as he could. The colonel, who, 
with Van, was drifting along close to us, was quite sure 
that he could catch salmon as well as an Indian, and 
having hooked into what he supposed a very large one, 
gave a vigorous jerk, which served to bury the hook 
into an old rotten log, and at the same time losing his 
balance, he fell splash into the water, from whence he 
was rescued by Van, and conveyed ashore to get dry. 
Of course the exploit caused shouts of laughter from all 
who witnessed it, in which Harry joined, and seemed to 
enjoy the fun as much as any one. Meanwhile we had 
drifted down to where the water was very deep, and 
George, having fastened to a large salmon, lost his pole 
by the fish suddenly diving and pulling the stick out of 
his hands. Now, then, for a chase. The fish kept in 
the deep water, swimming rapidly from side to side, but, 
as the pole was buoyant, the end of it always kept above 
water. So we paddled first up and then down stream, 
then to the right and then to the left, Peter and myself 
paddling, while George tried to catch hold of the pole ; 
but it seemed as if the fish knew when we were near ; 
for, every time we approached, he would suddenly dive, 
and the next we would see of the end of the pole would 
be some rods distant. We chased that fish over half 
an hour before we got him, but he repaid our .trouble, as 
he was very large and fat. By this time it had become 
dark, and, as I had become tired, the Indians set me 
ashore, while they proceeded on to continue their fishing. 
I found the colonel with his tent pitched, himself rolled 
in his blankets, and his clothes drying at a roaring fire, 
which the Indians were attending to. I was soon with 
him, and shortly both of us were asleep. 

The Indians did not get through till near midnight, 
and had caught, during the time they were employed, 
twenty-three fine fish. 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 139 

The next morning Stevens and his friends went down 
the river, and I went up stream to catch trout. About 
four miles above our camp the stream was quite shallow, 
with occasional deep holes, wliere overhanging roots made 
just the shade the trout like for their hiding-places. I 
had some of the nicest sort of flies; of various patterns 
and styles, and I anticipated rare sport, but after trying 
half an hour without the least semblance of a bite, I re- 
turned to the canoe, from whence I had strolled a short 
distance, and there found the two Indians who were with 
me very leisurely and lazily engaged in pulling in the 
trout as fast as they saw fit to throw their hooks over- 
board. I call it lazy kind of trout-fishing to be engaged 
as they were, for one lay flat on his back in the bow of 
the canoe, with a line in his hand about three fathoms 
long, having a hook attached to it baited with a roe of 
the salmon. No sooner would this touch the water than 
the trout would dart at it from all quarters, and the In- 
dian, with a sleight-of-hand jerk, would send the captive 
fish spinning up in the air, from whence he was sure to 
fall into the canoe. The other Indian was half reclin- 
ing across the stern, with one foot in the canoe and the 
other in the water, amusing himself by dividing his time 
between baiting his hook and starting off chips on voy- 
ages of discovery. 

I found that flies were of no account among these wild 
fish. They had not learned the ways of a civilized state 
of society ; so, putting up my patent apparatus, I adopt- 
ed the Indian plan, and between us three we caught 
a barrelful in about three hours' fishing. There is no 
doubt but that fresh salmon roe is the best bait in the 
world for a trout, and, in fact, all fish that can get to it 
devour it greedily. I remained three days at the camp, 
either catching trout or shooting ducks during the day, 
and the Indians catching the salmon during the evening 



140 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OE, 

and night. When the fish were shy or the Indians were' 
unsuccessful, they would rub their hooks with the root 
of the wild celery, which has a very aromatic smell, and 
is believed by the Indians to be very grateful to the 
salmon and sure to attract them. I have also seen the 
Indians rub the cel^y root into their nets at Chenook 
for the same purpose, though I never have tried its ef- 
fect, and have some doubt about its value. 

After we had filled our canoe with dry salmon and a 
couple of baiTels which we salted, we started down the 
river, and reached Stevens's tent just as the tide was 
beginning to run flood. Here we remained all that day 
and night, and by daylight the next morning started 
down the Bay with the ebb, and reached home at twelve 
o'clock. 

The salmon in Shoal-water Bay, although excellent, 
are not equal to the early spring salmon at Chenook ; 
in fact, they are a different species — although having the 
same form, they difi'er in color. The Chenook fish is of 
a dark brown or black on the back, with the sides and 
belly of a glistening silvery white. The fall salmon of 
Shoal-water Bay has dark, speckled sides, and a dull, 
whitish belly, nor is it so fat as the Chenook salmon. 
There are several varieties of fall salmon, the most plen- 
tiful of which is the hawk-nosed, or hook-billed, or dog- 
tooth salmon (for it has all those names). From the last 
of August to the first of December these salmon come 
into the Bay in myriads, and every river, brook, creek, 
or little stream is completely crammed with them, and 
late in the fall the banks of the rivers are literally piled 
up in rows with the dead fish killed in attempting to go 
over the falls. After they have cast their spawn their 
flesh loses its pink color, and is as white as a codfish. 
At this period they are not considered of any value ei- 
ther by whites or Indians, who term them musachee, 



TIIEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 141 

or bad. I, however, have salted these fish, and ha^e 
found them fully equal to salt cod, which thej greatly 
resemble in taste. 

During the early part of September, the brig Palos, 
which had taken a cargo of timber out of the Bay for 
San Francisco, on returning for another load, was wreck- 
ed at the mouth of the harbor on Leadbetter Point. The 
weather was very fine, and the wind quite light, so much 
so that the captain thought he could not stem the cur- 
rent of the ebb tide, and came to anchor just inside the 
breakers, when, not having sufficient scope to his cable, 
she dragged during the night, and went on to the beach. 
She had several passengers, who, with her crew, were 
safely landed, but the captain, in attempting to go on 
board during the night alone, was either capsized in the 
surf or fell overboard, and was drowned. His body was 
found the next day, and was buried by the settlers. It 
' was found impracticable to get the brig off, from want 
of men ; so she was stripped, and when the winter storms 
set in, she was dashed into a thousand fragments. 

Captain Purrington and myself had been living all 
this time in our tent, and although we had a house 
framed and nearly ready for raising, we concluded it was 
our wisest plan to put up a temporary cottage, provided 
we could find boards. The tent was comfortable enough 
for summer, but an occasional rainy day gave us warn- 
ing to prepare for winter. I soon heard of an old de- 
serted lodge, which I bought of the Indians for a trifle, 
and taking the best boards, which I brought down the 
Bay in my big canoe, we made a very comfortable and 
respectable little cottage, consisting of one room fifteen 
by twenty feet square. At one end were two bed-places 
or bunks, screened from observation by red cotton cur- 
tains, and at the other end were the door and fireplace, 
which was of large dimensions, built, as was also the 



142 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

chimney, of the sandy clay of which the cUfFs around 
the Bay are composed. This clay, which appears to be 
undergoing the slow process of transformation into sand- 
stone, falls from the cliffs in huge blocks, which can be 
easily cut with a hatchet, and split with as clean a frac- 
ture as slate-stone. Out of this material I fashioned a 
famous chimney. It was the pride of the Bay, although 
some of the knowing ones thought it was too handsome 
to last long ; but I told them they were envious ; and 
certainly, when the fireplace was filled with great logs 
of wood, blazing, and roaring, and sending showers of 
sparks and clouds of smoke up that famous chimney, 
they did acknowledge that it was the best chimney in 
the county. Tom Bartlett had given me some iron 
hatch-bars and chain-plates to make a crane, and hooks, 
and trammels, and when we had our tea-kettle singing 
in one comer, and the big iron pot bubbling and boiling, 
full of something good, with a loaf of hot bread in the 
Dutch oven, and a pot of strong coffee beside it, we felt, 
with our tight roof, that we would be as comfortable as 
any one else in the settlement. 

The Indians now brought us in plenty of salmon, and 
we had our hands full, salting and packing away for 
winter's use. We turned our tent into a smoke-house, 
and soon had that filled with salmon, which we had first 
slightly salted. Our garden had yielded well, and we 
had plenty of vegetables, so we felt pretty safe for the 
winter. 

The tides, which are always the highest during the 
winter months, now began to increase, and we found that 
they were getting rather close upon our old tent ; but 
we did not feel any apprehension, so did not move any 
thing. The location of the mouth of the river was an 
excellent one for wild-fowl ; and whenever there was a 
blow from the south, the water would be full of ducks. 



I 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 143 

brant, and geese, with thousands of curlew, plover, and 
snipe, not to mention clouds of gulls, crows, and eagles 
that were flying round, filling the air with their harsh' 
notes. At such times we had no difficulty in keeping 
our larder well supplied, and never felt sorry when the 
weather gave indications of a southeaster. We soon had 
enough to satisfy us. On the 30th of Xovember it be- 
gan to blow, and at high water, which was at two P.M., 
the tide came up so high and so rapidly that it washed 
away our tent and all our salmon, and set our house- 
frame, weather-boarding, and some ten or twelve thou- 
sand shingles drifting up stream. 

I soon got the Indians out, and, with their help, man- 
aged to save nearly all the lumber and fish ; but the lat- 
ter was in a very indifferent state., as the heads of the 
barrels were mostly out, and the salt water spoiled them 
all. We had not got them all secure when it began to 
rain. There had been a smart shower all the time for 
the last twenty-four hours, but now it began to rain, and, 
as the sun went down, the wind increased into a gale, 
and at times great gusts would come sweeping over the 
cliff, and, descending on us with a whirl, seemed as if 
they would tear every thing before them; 

We had taken the precaution, before dark, to bring in 
a good pile of wood, and having heaped on as much as 
our fireplace would hold, which was about half a cord, 
we ate our supper, smoked our pipes, and went to bed, 
but not to sleep. Now the storm raged fiercer, and was 
accompanied with thunder, and lightning, and hail. This 
music of the elements increased from forte to fortissimo 
— accompanied with the crashing of the trees, which had 
been partially burned, on the cliff opposite, and were fall- 
ing with a tremendous noise — till near midnight, when, 
the constant torrent of rain having loosened the chimney, 
it fell down with a crash ; and at the instant a squall of 



144 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

wind whirled into the fireplace, blowing about a couple 
of bushels of coals and ashes into the middle of the 
room. The captain and myself were out of our beds 
nearly at the same time, and had to work pretty lively 
to keep the floor from taking fire. We scraped up the 
coals at last, though not without scorching our feet by 
treading on the hot cinders. One of the Indians now 
came in with the information that our canoes were adrift. 
We did not stop to dress, but hastily lighting a lantern, 
and launching a small canoe that had fortunately been 
hauled up out of reach of the tide, jumped into her, and, 
after a long search, recovered all the canoes but one, 
which went out to sea, and was afterward picked up on 
the beach nearly up to Gray's Harbor. Toward morn- 
ing the wind lulled and the rain ceased, when we suc- 
ceeded in putting up a wooden substitute for my beauti- 
ful chimney ; then cleared out the bed of wet ashes, and 
got some breakfast. 

While we were engaged in eating we were called on 
by a young man who was living with Mr. Russell. He 
said that the storm had done them a deal of damage ; 
the tide had washed away Russell's garden and fences, 
and almost set his house adrift, and he wished me to go 
down and see the wreck. I did as he requested, and was 
astonished to see the damage done. Not only was Rus- 
sell's nice garden washed away, but a bulkhead that he 
had been all summer building was torn to fragments, 
and his house badly shattered. Farther down the beach 
the damage was not so great, and the people were glad 
to get ofi" with the loss of their boats and scows. But 
every one had been kept awake, and all considered it a 
very severe tempest. 

I came very near losing my life on my return. I had 
waited till afternoon, and as it was impossible to get 
back in a canoe, I was obliged to return by the beach ; 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 145 

and the tide being up, I liad to keep close in to the cliffs. 
As night closed in the wind began to rise, and before I 
had reached half way home it blew violently, accompa- 
nied with a drizzling rain that served to nearly blind me, 
and it was with difficulty I stumbled along over the 
trees and avalanches of earth that the storm had hurled 
down from the cliffs above. I had now to pass round 
a precipitous point which projected into the Bay, and 
around -which the water was about two feet deep, although 
the tide was rapidly ebbing. The wind dashed the 
waves against this cliff so that the spray flew higher 
than my head, and wet me through. I had reached the 
outer point, and could only creep along by keeping as 
close as possible to the bank, which rose perpendicularly 
over my head a hundred feet, while the waters of the 
Bay prevented my going out on the flats, which is usu- 
ally done at low tide, for fear of the falling trees and 
clay. Suddenly I heard an uproar overhead, and felt a 
trembling of the earth, which plainly indicated a land- 
slide. There I was, pinned up between the cliff and the 
water, with no alternative but to wade along. At length 
down came a portion of the cliff directly behind me, 
bringing in its descent three or four enormous spruce 
trees, and with a noise that nearly stunned me, and with 
a splash that completely covered me with the muddy 
water. I did not know where it was coming next, but 
had every reason to believe that the whole face of the 
cliff was falling. I, however, succeeded in getting round 
the point, and past all danger, and shortly reached the 
house, covered with yellow mud. The captain, who had 
been expecting me, had heard the noise of the falling 
mass, and, apprehending some accident, was about start- 
ing out with the dogs and lantern, when my appearance 
satisfied him that at least I was alive. I did not realize 
the danger, from the excitement consequent upon such a 

G 



146 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

situation, till I had fairly calmed down, and began to 
reflect on the narrow escape I had. 

The next morning we visited the place, and judged 
that the quantity of clay that had fallen exceeded a 
thousand tons. The trees, one of which measured six 
feet through at the butt, were splintered into fragments 
by the concussion of the fall, and their limbs lay strewed 
along the beach under the foot of the cliff. I learned 
enough by that adventure never to attempt the feat 
again, and would rather have stopped a week with some 
of the neighbors down the beach than to have endeavored 
reaching home by walking around the cliffs after dark, 
in a gale of wind, and nearly high tide. 

Shortly after this occurrence, a Chenook chief, named 
To-man-a-wos, came over from the Columbia, and stop- 
ped in the lodge with Toke's people. I did not fancy 
this arrangement at all, as we had no work to set them 
about, and I knew we should be continually annoyed 
by their begging, for they had come to pass the winter. 
They got one dose, however, that warmed them up fine- 
ly. We always bought the whole pepper, preferring it 
to the mixture of dirt, cinders, corn -meal, and store 
sweepings usually sold as ground pepper, and, when we 
wished any ground or pulverized, were accustomed to use 
our coffee-mill, and, after finishing the pepper, would 
clean the mill by grinding a handful or two of coffee, 
which afterward was thrown away. 

One morning, the captain, having ground some pepper 
and cleaned the mill in the usual manner, left the mix- 
ture of coffee and pepper in a tea-cup on the table, and 
both of us went out to chop some wood. 

Old Suis, being desirous to treat her friends to a cup 
of coffee (a beverage all the Coast Indians are fond of), 
sent over to our house to borrow some. The little girl 
who came, not finding either of us in, and seeing a cup 



THEEE TEAES AT SHOAL- WATEE BAY. 147 

full of freshly-ground coffee, took it without saying any 
thing, and carried it to old Suis, who poured it into a tea- 
kettle and gave it a good boiling, after which the decoc- 
tion was served round with plenty of sugar, and drunk 
as hot as they could bear it. The first we learned of 
the matter was seeing the whole of the Indians, old and 
young, running toward us with their mouths open, 
tongues out, and all blowing like so many locomotive 
engines. *' Holloa!" said the captain to me, "what's 
tlie matter now, do you suppose ? What jugglery can 
they be up to, puffing away at that rate?" I was as 
much at a loss as he was, and watched them till they all 
came up and sat down around us. At last old Suis, 
who had a quart pot of water with her to cool her tongue 
in, made out to tell me what was the matter, and to 
charge me with having put some bad medicine in the 
coffee to kill them. 

When we understood what was the trouble, we 
laughed so that I could not explain to them the state of 
affairs ; but, finding they did not consider the matter as a 
joke — certainly not a cool one — I told them the reason 
the pepper was with the coffee, and took occasion to read 
them a lecture on taking things without asking. They 
were careful after that to find out what were the ingre- 
dients of coffee before they ventured to drink. The dose 
did not harm them, although they went blowing round 
all day, to the intense delight of the captain, who was 
always glad to have them " served out," as he called it, 
whenever they went round pilfering. 

I have before mentioned their superstitious belief in 
tlie spirits of the dead, or memelose, as they term them, 
and we soon had another sample. One night we heard 
three reports of gunshots in the lodge. " Now they are 
having sport," said the old man ; " well, let them fight 
it out, I shaVt go near them." He had scarcely spoken, 



148 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

when one of the Indians, looking half scared to death, 
burst open the door, and begged me to take my lantern 
and go over to the lodge. I asked him what was the 
matter. He said that they had heard a canoe with many 
paddles come up the river, and supposing it to contain 
some friends, went out to meet them ; but, although they 
called several times, they received no reply, when they, 
became alarmed, and Tomanawos fired off his rifle ; but 
the viemelose chased them into the lodge, and then To- 
manawos fired his double-barreled gun. But the meme- 
lose was there still, and they were all afraid, and wished 
me to go over, as the memelose were afraid of a white 
man and would leave. I accordingly lit my lantern and 
followed the Indian over. I found them all hudded into 
their bunks, afraid to stir. Tomanawos then handed me 
his gun, which he had again loaded, with the request that 
I would fire it off. I did so, sending both charges di- 
rectly through the roof, when they pronounced the mem- 
elose to be driven off, and all came out of their hiding- 
places highly gratified. It was of no use for me to at- 
tempt to reason with them on the folly of their super- 
stition ; they would not reason or talk on the subject ; 
but to any attempt to convince them of the absurdity of 
their fears they had but one reply, "You are a white 
man, and can't see or hear our m^emelose ; but we In- 
dians can, and we understand their talk, and you do 
not." 

The captain made all sorts of fiin of the nonsense, as 
he called it, and was always laughing at them ; but I, 
on the contrary, endeavored to get them to explain their 
views to me, and always tried to respect their feelings. 
When I returned and related the circumstances to the 
old man, he was very much delighted, and promised to fix 
up a tnemelose for them the next night, provided I would 
not say any thing to the Indians. He then selected a 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 149 

pumpkin with a green rind, and hollowed it out, scrap- 
ing the inside down to the thin skin for nose, eyes, and 
mouth, so that, hy placing a candle inside, a green and 
ghastly-looking spectre was produced. This was kept 
out of sight till the next night, when he carried it over, 
and placed it directly in front of the lodge door, among 
some bushes. He then went in and sat down by the 
lodge fire. After a few minutes one of the slaves step- 
ped out for some wood, but directly came back and whis- 
pered to old Suis, who, in turn, whispered to the rest, 
and then they huddled round the door to see what was 
there. 

Tomanawos and Peter got down their guns, and gave 
the object a couple of shots without effect ; but, while 
they were loading again, old Toke, who had just return- 
ed in his canoe, came up without seeing the light, and 
stumbled over a log, and fell directly on the object of 
their terror. Then they discovered what it was, and were 
highly pleased when they found it to be a joke. 

But it did not have the effect the captain intended, 
and I advised him not to attempt any more experiments 
on their credulity. 

I turned their belief in my medical knowledge to good 
account on several occasions, and was able, by a very 
simple experiment, to save all of our cabbages, of which 
the Indians were very fond. We had been annoyed, 
while packing our salmon, by thousands of crows, who 
would light down in flocks on our salmon, and eat them 
up before our eyes ; but the cunning rascals knew what 
a gun was, and, although they were so bold that they 
would walk about like poultry, yet the moment they saw 
us take a gun from the house they were off. I had shot 
several, but it was of no use ; it seemed that for every 
one I killed there was an increase of a hundred. At 
length one day, while overhauling my trunk, I found a 



150 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

paper of stryclinine. I immediately put some on three 
or four salmon, which I laid out for the crows. Down 
they came and gobbled up the fish, and then, with a 
squawk, would roll over on their backs and die. In this 
manner I slew a great number, and it had the efiect of 
frightening the rest so bad that they did not trouble us 
any more. 

The Indians saw the whole affair, and at first were 
very much pleased to see me kill those " bad birds," as 
they call the crows ; but old Suis told them she was 
afraid, if I got vexed, that I might put some of that white 
medicine where they themselves would be poisoned. I 
assured her such would not be the case except with the 
cabbages, for I had found some of her people had been 
helping themselves ; so I selected out a dozen heads, 
which I told her she might have, and then asked her to 
go round with me and see me put the white medicine on 
the rest. She did so, and I sprinkled every cabbage- 
head with flour, which I had previously put into a blue 
paper similar to that the strychnine was in. The effect 
was excellent, and we never lost another cabbage. 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 151 



CHAPTER X. 

Old Suis relates about the Indians of the Bay. — A Description of the 
Coast Indians. — Writers apt to confuse the Reader in Accounts of 
Indians. — General Appearance. — Dress of Women. — Dress of Men. 
— Smoking. — Fondness for Ardent Spirits. — ^Whom they received the 
first from. — Gambling. — A Description of gambling Games. — Orna- 
ments. — Description of the Howqua or Wampum. — Method of ob- 
taining the Shells. — Evidences of Wealth. — Great Weight of Ear Or- 
naments. — Position of Females among the Coast Tribes. — Duties of 
Women. — Various Manufactures. — Lodge Furniture. — Ancient 
Method of Cooking. — Bread-making. — Peter's Method of making 
Bread. — Time of Eating. — Slaves. — Fondness of Indians for their 
Children. — Method of flattening the Head. — Flat Head a mark of 
Aristocracy. — Eeception of Strangers. — Reception of Friends. — Sin- 
gular Custom. — Great Newsmongers. — ^Polygamy. — Customs toward 
young Girls. — Singular Superstition. — Fasts. — Religion. — Heathen- 



Old Suis had formerly lived on the same spot where 
we were now residing, and it was there her first husband 
was killed. It was many years ago, she said, that a 
party of warriors from Chehalis, called the Que-ndi-7iar, \ 
or the Strong Men, came to her lodge, and, having got 
into a wrangle with her husband, chased him across the 
creek and killed him. They then went up the Palux 
to near where old Tomhays had built his lodge, where 
they had a fight, and killed a great number of Palux In- 
dians ; and the place was ever after caUed A-wil-ka-tum- 
ar, or the Bloody Ground. The chief who headed the 
expedition was named Kaith-lah-wiP-nu, a very savage 
fellow, who was soon afterward killed by the Queniult 
Indians. 

As I became more familiar with the language, and the 
Indians became better acquainted with me, they gradu- 
ally threw off their reserve, and were much more ready 



152 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

to communicate information on any subject I wished to 
speak about than they at first had been. 

We are too apt to consider the Indian as the being he 
is represented in those fictitious tales and poems of im- 
aginary Indian life which have been in use from the first 
days of the settlement of the American continent. " It 
was supposed," says Schoolcraft, " that the Indian was 
at all times and in all places ' a stoic of the woods,' al- 
ways statuesque, always formal, always passionless, al- 
ways on stilts, always speaking in metaphors, a cold im- 
bodiment of bravery, endurance, and savage heroism. 
Writers depicted him as a man who uttered nothing but 
principles of natural right, who always harangued elo- 
quently, and was ready, with unmoved philosophy, on all 
occasions, to sing his death-song at the stake, to show 
the world how a warrior should die." The Indian is 
naturally reserved before strangers, and very suspicious. 
He is full of superstitious beliefs, and distrustful, deem- 
ing every man his enemy tiU he has proved to the con- 
trary. At all times and places he is under influences of 
hopes and fears, and it is his fear that makes him sus- 
picious, and his ignorance that makes him superstitious ; 
and those persons who have only met the Indian under 
such circumstances can only view him as the individual 
represented above. But let the Indian once get acquaint- 
ed, and feel that he is in the presence of a friend and 
one who feels an interest in his welfare, and he then 
throws ofi" this reserve, and then it is seen that he can 
talk and laugh like the rest of the human family. His 
reserve is most completely thrown off when at home in 
the midst of his lodge circle, or in seasons of leisure and 
retirement in the depths of the forest. Then the stran- 
ger who may have gained his confidence not only has 
the opportunity to learn his method of domestic econo- 
my, but can hear the relation of those tales and legends 



THREE TEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 153 

which have been handed down from generation to gen- 
eration, and which the casual visitor or stranger is never 
permitted to listen to. 

As it was not till after I had become well acquainted 
with the people and their language that I was enabled to 
get their ideas of their origin, I shall leave that subject 
for a future consideration, and commence with a descrip- 
tion of these Indians just as I found them ; and as I 
only intend giving an account of what I actually saw, I 
trust that my descriptions of the Indians may be under- 
stood to refer to those tribes on the coast from the Co- 
lumbia to Fuca's Straits, and not to Indians of the in- 
terior, whose habits and customs are necessarily differ- 
ent ; for, although the whole Pacific region, and, in fact, 
the whole American continent, from the Esquimaux at 
the north to the Patagonians at the south, appears to be 
peopled with one and the same race, differing but slight- 
ly, considering the varieties of soil, climate, and situa- 
tion, and the consequent varieties in the mode of life, yet 
writers are too apt, in speaking of the American Indians, 
to confound the customs of tribes whose manners, in fact, 
are entirely different. This only sei-ves to confuse the 
reader, without answering any good end. Thus one writ- 
er on the Indians of California and Oregon asserts that 
it is the universal custom of the Indians to burn the 
bodies of their dead. Another, with equal earnestness, 
states that they always bury their dead in canoes ; while 
another, quite as certain, states that they are buried in 
rude boxes deposited in the earth. These writers were 
all right so far as what they had personally witnessed. 
The Digger Indians of California do burn their dead, but 
the Chenook and other Coast Indians bury their dead in 
canoes, and the Indians of the interior, who have no ca- 
noes, perform their interments in the earth. 

Of the Coast Indians that I have seen there seems to 
G2 



154 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

be so little difference in their style of living that a de- 
scription of one family will answer for the whole. 

The Indians north of the Columbia are, for the most 
part, good-looking, robust men, some of them having fine, 
symmetrical forms. They have been represented as di- 
minutive, with crooked legs and uncouth features. This 
is not correct ; but, as a general rule, the direct reverse 
is the truth. Their complexion is that of the usual cop- 
per color of the North American Indians, but their col^ 
or is much lighter than the Indians of California, or those 
of Missouri, Alabama, or Florida. The hair of both 
sexes is long and very black, that of the men hanging 
loose over the shoulders, while the women, as a usual 
thing, tie theirs up behind in a sort of cue, and the young 
girls braid theirs into two tails, with the ends tied with 
ribbons or twine. Both sexes part the hair on the top 
of the head, and take great pains to keep it well combed, 
although their combs have usually very coarse teeth, not 
well adapted to remove either dirt or insects. They are 
very fond of dress, and are apt and excellent imitators. 
The women are expert with the needle, and fashion and 
make their dresses with great rapidity, imitating as near 
as they can the dresses of the white women they may 
have seen. They prefer calicoes with small figures on 
them ; and a blue ground, with little white dots or 
sprigs, seems to be the most in demand. White blank- 
ets are usually preferred, but some wiU wear blue or 
green, and a few buy red ones ; but white, with a very 
narrow black stripe across the ends, is the favorite. 

They are excellent judges of such articles as they want 
and are accustomed to. The women try the calicoes, to 
ascertain if the colors are fast, by chewing the cloth in 
their mouths. The men are fond of getting boots or 
shoes, and stockings, though, as a general thing, neither 
men or women wear any thing on their feet, the mild- 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 155 

ness of the climate, and their being so much in the wa- 
ter, making them too much of an incumbrance; and I 
have frequently seen persons of both sexes, who had been 
sitting in the house for some time with shoes and stock- 
ings on, take them off as soon as they were ready to get 
into their canoes. Before the introduction of blankets 
and calicoes among them, they used the dressed skins of 
the deer, bear, and sea-otter. The women wore a sort 
of skirt or tunic, made from the inner bark of the young 
cedar, prepared by beating till it was soft, and then spun 
into a yarn-like thread, which was woven thickly on a 
string that passed around the body, the ends hanging 
down like a thick fringe reaching to the knees. This 
garment is still used by old women, and by all the fe- 
males when they are at work in the water, and is called 
by them their siwash coat, or Indian gown. 

The young men dress in clothes procured from the 
whites, and some of them, when dressed up, look well 
enough to appear in almost any company. The old 
men, like old Toke and his old brother Colote, seldom 
wear any clothing but a shirt and a blanket. 

Some of them are very fond of smoking tobacco, but 
the practice is not common. They mix the dried leaves 
of the bearberry {Arbutus uva ursi) with their tobacco, 
which they then call kinuse or kinutl. The plant is 
called quer-lo-e-chintl. Tobacco, when thus mixed, is 
much improved, and I prefer it, for smoking, to the cora^ 
mon coarse, cheap trash usually found for sale on the 
frontiers. Some of these Indians will stupefy them- 
selves for a short time by swallowing quantities of 
smoke, which, after being retained in the stomach and 
lungs a while, is poured out in volumes from the mouth 
and nostrils. They are all extravagantly fond of ar- 
dent spirits, and are not particular what kind they have, 
provided it is strong, and gets them drunk quickly. This 



156 THE NORTHWEST COAST ; OB, 

habit tliey have acquired since the visit of Lewis and 
Clarke in 1805, for they state- that they had not ob- 
served any liquors of an intoxicating kind used among 
any of the Indians west of the Rocky Mountains ; and 
old Carcumcum has related to me the fact of her remem- 
bering the first time that any liquor was given to the 
Chenook Indians, and, from her description, I should 
think it was when Broughton went into the Columbia in 
the brig Chatham, for she said the tyee^ or chief of the 
vessel, had gold dollar things, meaning epaulets, on his 
shoulders, and was in a man-of-war. They drank some 
rum out of a wine-glass — how much she did not recol- 
lect ; but she did recollect that they got drunk, and 
were so scared at the strange feeling that, they ran into 
the woods and hid till they were sober. The rest, who 
did not get any rum, thought they had gone crazy or 
had turned foolish, and applied to them the \fQtxdi jpilton 
Oil jpelton^ meaning a crazy or foolish man, a term which 
is still applied to a drunken person. Partlelum is an- 
other term for drunkenness — -partle^ full ; lu7a^ rum ; or, 
full of rum. They have been apt learners since that 
time, and now will do any thing for the sake of whisky. 
Old Carcumcum said they had but a very little rum 
from the traders till the settlement of Astoria, when they 
began to get a little more used to it ; and as the country 
has become settled, they can get it readily from all quar- 
ters. 

Another, and the more natural vice, these Indians pos- 
sess is an attachment to gambling, which they will pur- 
sue at all hazards, and with a most fearful earnestness. 
Not only will they stake all their property, even to strip- 
ping themselves of their shirts and blankets, but I have 
known them sell themselves as slaves for a term of 
years, or till another lucky chance enables them to pay 
up their bets. 



THKEE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 157 

Frequent wrangles, iiglits, and deadly strife are caused 
during these gambling scenes, and whenever any whisky 
can be obtained, serious results often ensue. The prin- 
cipal and favorite game is called La-hull. This, though 
apparently a word of French origin, is, I believe, an In- 
dian word, for I know of no French word sounding any 
thing like it which is at all applicable to the game, 
which is thus played : A mat is first placed on the floor, 
with the centre raised up so as to form a small ridge, 
which is kept in its place by four wooden pins stuck 
through the mat into the ground. Two persons play at 
this game, who are seated at each end of the mat. Each 
player has ten discs of wood, two inches in diameter, and 
a little over an eighth of an inch thick, resembling the 
men used in playing backgammon, but much larger. 
The only distinguishing feature about these men, or 
wheels, is the diiferent manner the edges are colored. 
There are but two pieces of value; one has the edge 
blackened entirely round, and the other is perfectly plain, 
while the others have different quantities of color on 
them, varying from the black to the white. These discs 
are then inclosed in a quantity of the inner bark of the 
cedar, pounded very fine, and called tujpsoe. The player, 
after twisting and shuffling them up in all sorts of forms, 
separates them into two equal parts, both being envel- 
oped in the tupsoe. These are then rapidly moved about 
on the mat from side to side, the other player keeping 
his eyes most intently fixed upon them all the time. 
He has bet either on the black or the white one, and now, 
to win, has to point out which of the two parcels con- 
tains it. As soon as he makes his selection, which is 
done by a gesture of his hand, the parcel is opened, and 
each piece is rolled down the mat to the ridge in the cen- 
tre. He can thus see the edges of all, and knows wheth- 
er he has lost or won. They will play at this game 



158 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

sometimes for weeks, particularly during the winter sea- 
son, onlj leaving off to sleep a little, or eat. 

Another game is played by little sticks or stones, 
which are rapidly thrown from hand to hand with the 
skill of experienced jugglers, accompanied all the while 
by some song adapted to the occasion, the winning or 
losing the game depending on being able to guess cor- 
rectly which hand the stick is in. This game can be 
played by any number of persons, and is usually resort- 
ed to when the members of two different tribes meet, and 
is a sort of trial of superiority. Before commencing the 
game the betting begins, and each article staked is put 
before the owner, and whoever wins takes the whole 
pile. 

Another game, which is usually played by the women, 
consists in a sort of dice made of beaver's teeth, with 
hieroglyphics on them. These are shaken in the hand, 
and thro^vn down, the game being according to the mark 
on the teeth, as the spots are counted on dice. 

The ornaments worn by these Indians are not very 
various, the men being contented with a black ostrich 
plume tied like a band round their caps, though some 
will occasionally stick an eagle's feather in their hair, or 
add a few of the tail-feathers of the blue jay to their cap 
ornament. 

The women are fond of dark blue cut glass beads, 
which are highly prized. Light blue ones are only 
worn by the slaves. But the most valued ornament is 
the howqua or wampum. This is a species of small 
shell, of a cylindrical shape, pointed at one end, slightly 
curved, and resembling a nearly straight horn. It is a 
species of the Denticularium, and is found by the north- 
ern Indians somewhere north of Vancouver's Island. It 
passes as money among them, and is called Siwash dol- 
lars. 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 159 

The method by which this shell is obtained is said by 
Jevvett to be thus : A piece of wood a foot square is fill- 
ed full of little pegs, which are sharpened to a fine point. 
This block is fastened to a long pole, and thrust down 
into the water till it reaches the shell-fish, and the sharp 
points enter the hollow shells, breaking them from their 
hold on the bottom, and bringing them to the surface. 
Another method described to me by the Indians is to tie 
a large piece of seal or whale meat to a pole, and press 
that down firmly on the shells, which, becoming imbed- 
ded in the meat, are easily broken off", and thus secured. 
I, however, have never seen the operation, therefore can 
not speak positively on the subject. These shells are 
pure w^hite, and, when made up into bands for the fore- 
head or for ear ornaments, are very pretty, and form a 
striking contrast with the jet black hair of the females. 
As these shells are evidences of wealth, the women are 
anxious to display as many as they can on great occa- 
sions. Some of these girls I have seen with the whole 
rim of their ears bored full of holes, into each of which 
would be inserted a string of these shells that reached 
to the floor, and the whole weighing so heavy that, to 
save their ears from being pulled off, they were obliged 
to wear a band across the top of the head. In addition 
to these shell ornaments, which are seldom worn, they 
have, for common wear, brass rings around their wrists 
and arms, and gold, silver, or brass finger-rings. Silver 
rings are preferred, and these are usually made by the 
brothers or lovers for the young girls out of the silver 
coin they get from the whites. 

The rest of their ornaments are, like those of the white 
women, made up from shawls, or ribbons, or some showy 
pattern for a dress. 

They are very eager to get the camphor-wood trunks 
that come from China, covered with bright red or green 



160 THE NORTHWEST COAST ; OR, 

paint, and studded with brass nails. Into these they 
will stow every thing they can get. 

Articles of crockery are very desirable ; and although 
they seldom use knives and forks, or dishes, still they 
Jlike to have them, and feel proud, when a white person 
eats with them, to have a chance to show out their table 
furniture. 

With these Indians the position of the women is not 
so degraded as with the tribes of the Plains. Lewis and 
Clarke, who noticed the fact from its marked difference 
from those tribes they had journeyed among, remark : 

"The treatment of women is often considered as the 
standard by which the moral qualities of savages are to 
be estimated. Our own observation, however, induces 
us to think that the importance of the female in savage 
life has no necessary relation to the virtues of the men, 
but is regulated wholly by their capacity to be useful. 
Where the women can aid in procuring sustenance for 
the tribe, they are treated with more equality, and their 
importance is proportioned to the share which they take 
in that labor, while in countries where the sustenance is 
chiefly procured by the exertions of the men, the women 
are considered and treated as burdens. Thus among 
the Clatsops and Chenooks, who live chiefly upon fish 
and roots, which the women are equally expert with the 
men in procuring, the former have a rank and influence 
very rarely found among the Indians. The females are 
permitted to speak freely before the men, to whom, in- 
deed, they sometimes address themselves in a tone of au- 
thority. On many subjects their judgments and opin- 
ions are respected, and in matters of trade their advice 
is generally asked and pursued. The labors of the fam- 
ily, too, are shared almost equally. The men collect the 
wood and make fires, assist in cleaning fish, make the 
houses, canoes, and wooden utensils, and, whenever a 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 161 

stranger is entertained or a feast is to be prepared, the 
meats are cooked and served up by the men." 

The peculiar province of the women is to prepare and 
take care of the fish and berries for the winter's use ; to 
collect roots, make the mats, which are made from rush- 
es, and to manufacture the various articles which are 
made of rushes, flags, cedar bark, and bear grass. But 
the management of the canoes, and many of the occupa- 
tions which elsewhere devolve on the female, are here 
common to both sexes. 

The manufacture of mats is a very important one, as 
the mat serves many useful purposes. It is used to sit 
upon during the day ; it forms the bed at night ; it lines 
the inside of the lodge, to keep out both wind and rain, 
and forms the tent when traveling about. The common 
bulrush, or cat-tail flag, is used for the purpose, and is 
called lisquis tu-psoe, or mat-grass. This is cut during 
the months of July and August, and carefully dried in 
the sun, and, when in a proper state, is stowed away in 
some dry place till the fall and winter, when the rains 
keep them at work within doors. When mats are to be 
made, the head woman of the family sorts out the rush- 
es or flags, and cuts them of the desired length, which is 
usually three feet. These are then taken, two at a time, 
placing the top or small end of one with the bottom or 
large end of the other. These are fastened by a cord 
twisted round the ends, and the process continued till 
enough are secui*ed to make a mat of the length required. 
Those for sleeping on are six or seven feet long. The 
lining mats may vary with the size of the lodge, and are 
from ten to twenty, and sometimes thirty feet in length. 
After each length has been determined on, it is rolled up 
till wanted for manufacturing. Each female, whether 
slave or free, then has her mat assigned her to make. 
The rushes are laid down on the lodge floor, or, if the 



162 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

weather is pleasant, are carried out of doors. Two pegs 
or stakes driven into the ground, one at each end of the 
mat, and to which the string which binds the ends is 
made fast, secure the whole. The operator then takes a 
needle, made from the small bone in the second joint of 
the wing of the common blue crane, which is straight, 
long, and slender, and which has a hole drilled in one 
end for an eye, and the other sharpened similar to cut- 
ting off a quill when about making a pen. Into this 
needle is fastened a piece of twine, made of the rushes 
twisted by hand, and of a length in accordance with the 
size of the mat. The needle is then passed through ev- 
ery one of the rushes, and the string drawn firm and 
smooth. A creased bone is then rubbed over the whole 
length of the twine, which serves to set the work and 
mark the thread distinctly. The operation is then re- 
peated, the threads being inserted parallel to each other, 
about four inches apart. When the stitching is done, 
the whole is bound around with a flat, three-ply braid of 
rushes, and the mat is finished. 

Some are very prettily ornamented round the edges 
with colored grasses, neatly worked and woven in. These 
mats are so well made that they shed water like a duck's 
back, and, when set on their edge, as effectually exclude 
rain as the best shingle roof. They are very light, and 
are excellent, while traveling, to wrap around blankets 
or clothes. The newly-made ones have a very fragrant 
smell, which makes them pleasant and healthy to sleep 
upon. When the mats are all made, the next work is bas- 
ket-making. These are woven from spruce roots, bear- 
grass, and willow bark. They are exceedingly strong, 
and so compact and tight as to hold water. These are 
woven with figures of horses, dogs, and birds depicted 
on them by means of different colored grasses. Black, 
red, and yellow are the extent of their dyes. The black 



i 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 163 

is produced by burying the willow bark or grass in the 
black mud of the Bay for a few weeks ; the red, by the 
bark of the black alder ; and the yellow, by a mixture 
of nettle roots with some shrub they procure from the 
Northern Indians. Occasionally they make baskets and 
hats of the pure white grass, and they are very hand- 
some. The hats of the Queniult and other Northern In- 
dians are made of precisely the same conical form as the 
Chinese hats, and are only worn in wet weather to shed 
rain. This peculiar form has either been handed down 
to them by tradition, or was introduced among them by 
the Chinese who were carried to Nootka by Meares from 
Canton in 1788, to assist in building the schooner North- 
west America, and who, he writes, remained with the In- 
dians, and took wives among them. 

The usual articles in a lodge for domestic use are their 
iron pots or kettles, or brass kettles, tin pots, cups, and 
pans, an axe or two, three or four knives and a few 
spoons, all of which are procured from the Hudson Bay 
Company. They manufacture for themselves bowls, 
platters, and spoons of wood, usually of maple or black 
alder, which grows here very large, some that I have 
seen being sixty or seventy feet high, and from two to 
four feet in diameter. They also make spoons of the 
horn of the musk-ox, which they procure in trade of the 
Indians from the North. These spoons, which are cu- 
riously shaped, and are often elaborately carved, are 
formed by first boiling or steaming the horn, and then, 
while it is soft, moulding it in the desired shape. 

The women confine their operations to cooking, mak- 
ing mats and baskets, and their own dresses, and also 
spin the thread and twine for making nets. This oper- 
ation is performed in a very simple and primitive man- 
ner by twisting the strands between the palm of the hand 
and the bare leg, similar to the method a shoemaker 



164 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

uses to make his " waxed ends" for sewing leather. 
These cords, when spun, are tied up in hanks of thirty 
or forty fathoms each, and carefully stowed away for fu- 
ture use. The men make the nets, spears, fish-hooks, 
daggers, and carve out the spoons, bowls, and dishes. 

These are the usual occupations of the winter during 
rainy weather, when they prefer being in the house ; and 
although they will generally stop work when a stranger 
enters their lodge, and by many such are deemed per- 
fectly idle and worthless, yet they manage, during the 
course of the winter, to make a great many articles which 
are disposed of to the whites. 

Their method of cooking is by simply roasting or 
boiling. This latter process was formerly done in bas- 
kets by means of hot stones. The article, whether fish 
or flesh, was put in the basket, then covered with water, 
and a supply of hot stones kept up till the whole was 
cooked. I have seen them perform this process, as they 
fancy their salmon tastes better when cooked this way. 
The stones, when taken from the fire red hot, were first 
dipped in water to remove any dirt or ashes, then thrown 
into the basket, and soon the water would boil violently. 
I never perceived that any improvement to the flavor of 
either fish or meat was gained by this style, and much 
prefer our own custom of boiling victuals in an iron ves- 
sel over the fire. The roasting process is the same as 
that described at Chenook. Bread is made of flour and 
water without salt, baked in thin cakes in the ashes. 
When hot it is very good, but rather tough when cold. 
Most of them can make good bread when they feel like 
it, and some are able to make good cake and pies. These 
accomplishments have been learned from the white wom- 
en they have occasionally met with. 

Peter, the young Indian in Toke's lodge, had a meth- 
od of making most excellent bread, which I will describe 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 165 

for the benefit of persons going to the frontiers, and who 
think that without brewer's yeast, or soda, or saleratus, 
no bread can be made fit to eat. Peter had lived some 
time with Cale Weeks, of Astoria, who had imparted to 
him this chemical secret. The process was simply this : 
Half a teaspoonful of fine salt is added to a teacupful 
of flour, and water enough added to make a stiff batter ; 
this is usually mixed in a tin pint pot, which is then set 
into a pan of blood-warm water, and placed near enough 
to the fire to keep up about the same temperature. In 
ten or fifteen minutes it begins to ferment, and when the 
mass has swelled so as nearly to fill the pot, it is mixed 
up with flour and warm water into dough, which must be 
well kneaded. The Dutch oven or tin baker is being 
warmed during this process, and the dough i£ immediate- 
ly put into it and set by the fire, but not too near, and 
shortly it will begin to rise. When the bake-kettle is 
nearly full, bake the whole over a bed of hot coals, and 
the bread, when done, is most excellent. The only 
trouble with this method is that it wants more watching 
than tlie ordinary way of bread-making. However, the 
method is one that is useful to miners, and should be 
known. There is many a poor fellow who has lost his 
health by living on "flippers" fried in pork fat because 
he could not get any saleratus, that might have saved 
the troubles consequent upon sickness in the mines, had 
he but known this simple recipe. 

When meat or fish is boiled, it is taken on to a large 
wooden platter or tin pan, and, after being cut up, is di- 
vided round by the matron of the establishment, each 
one receiving an equal share. The water which the food 
has been boiled in is considered a luxury, and each one 
has a clam shell, which is dipped into the kettle as often 
as they desire to drink of the broth. 

They usually have three regular meals a day : early 



166 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

in the morning, at noon, and at sundown. They, how- 
ever, do not confine their appetites to these set times, 
but eat whenever and as often as they take a fancy, even 
getting up during the night to cook. But these outside 
meals are not from the family supply of provisions: 
that, the matron looks after with a jealous eye; but any 
one who may bring in game, fish, or oysters usually dis- 
tributes them to those who wish. 

Their property consists in movable or personal prop- 
erty. They never considered land of any value till they 
were taught so by the whites. If I or any of the set- 
tlers had been allowed to have purchased the Indian ti- 
tles to the land when we first went there, the whole tract 
from the Columbia to Fuca Straits could have been 
bought for a few trifling presents. All the value they 
set upon their grounds is for hunting and fishing, and 
the only bounds are such as they set between themselves 
and neighboring tribes. All such property is common 
stock, each member of the tribe owning as much interest 
in it as the chiefs, although, when dealing with the whites, . 
the chiefs assume to own the whole. 

They were glad to have us settle on and improve their 
lands. They knew they could not do so themselves, 
and they were content to be paid for the land so used^ 
by what the settlers saw fit to give them of the potatoes i 
or wheat raised. 

What they consider as property is any thing they can' 
exchange or barter away for articles they desire to pos-] 
sess. This consists of Chinese chests, blue beads, blank-i 
ets, calico, brass kettles, and other culinary articles,' 
guns, fishing apparatus, canoes, and slaves or horses. 

Their slaves are purchased from the JSTorthern Indians,1 
and are either stolen or captives of war, and were regu- 
larly brought down and sold to the southern tribes.^ 
The price is from one to five hundred dollars, or from] 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 167 

twenty to one hundred blankets, valued at five dollars 
each. Some are even higher than that, and not unfre- 
quentlj a valuable canoe is added to the bargain. 

In their domestic relations they seem very fond of 
each other, and the parents seem devotedly affectionate 
to their children. I have never known of an instance, 
during their wildest drunken freaks of fury or rage, where 
one of their own children was hurt or badly treated, al- 
though at such times they are very apt to treat their 
slaves with barbarity. 

The most singular custom among these people is that 
of flattening or compressing the head of the infant. 
Where this custom originated is hard to tell. Lewis 
and Clarke state that it is not peculiar to that part of 
the continent, since it was among the first objects that 
struck the attention of Columbus. "But," they add, 
" wherever it began, or what was its origin, the practice 
is now universal among the tribes west of the Kocky 
Mountains, in the region of the Columbia, and it is con- 
fined to them, for, with the exception of the Snake In- 
dians, who are called Flat-heads, the fashion is not known 
to the east of that barrier." 

The method adopted to produce this deformity is as 
follows : A cradle, like a bread trough, is hollowed out 
from a piece of cedar, and, according to the taste of tlie 
parent, is either fancifully carved, or is as simple in its 
artistic appearance as a pig's trough. This cradle, or 
canim, or canoe, as they term it, is lined inside with the 
softest of cedar bark, well pounded and cleaned so as to 
be as soft as wool. On this the infant is placed as soon 
as it is born, and covered with the softest cloth or skins 
they can find. A little pillow at one end slightly ele- 
vates the head. The child is placed flat on its back, 
and a cushion of wool or feathers laid on its forehead. 
An oblong square piece of wood or bark, having one end 



168 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 



Iin>IAN OBASLE. 



fastened hj strings to the head of the canoe, is now 
brought down on the cushion, and firmly secured by 
strings tied to the sides of the cradle, and causing the 
cushion to press upon the child's forehead. The infant 
is then so bound into the cradle that it can not stir hand 
or foot, and in this position it remains a year or more, 
only being taken out to be washed and for exercise. 

This pressure on the forehead causes the head to ex- 
pand laterally, giving an expression of great broadness 
to the face ; but I never perceived that it affected the 
mind at all, although it disfigures them very much in 
appearance. I have seen several whose heads had not 
been thus pressed, and they were smart, intelligent, and 
quite good-looking ; but they were laughed at by the 
others, who asserted that their mothers were too lazy to 
shape their heads properly. This flattening of the head 
appears to be a sort of mark of royalty or badge of aris- 
tocracy, for their slaves are not permitted to treat their 
children thus ; but, although I have seen persons with 
and others without this deformity, I never could dis- 
cover any superiority of intellect of one over the other. 

When a stranger, either a white man or an Indian, of 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 169 

rank visits them, the head of the house, or tyee, always 
cooks the meal which he serves up. This mark of at- 
tention is always given to those they respect ; and any 
person who has had his food prepared by the women in 
a chief's lodge on his first arrival, may rest assured that 
he was considered as a hultus tillicwm, or common per- 
son. Their method of reception and salutation, even of 
their own relatives, is singular, and I have often been 
amused to witness it. I have seen instances where they 
were expecting friends they had not seen for a long time. 
As the time approached, they would be careful to coUect 
as much food as they could, to give their friends a kind 
reception, and some one or other was kept constantly on 
the watch for the expected canoe. The weather, the 
wind, the state of the tide, all were discussed, as to the 
probable effect each would have to hasten or retard the 
coming of their friends. At length a canoe is seen in 
the distance. Can it be they? No, that is not like 
their sail ; but perhaps they have got another. Yes, it 
must be ; it is they. All now is glee, and the canoe 
comes up the creek, and nears the shore. Instead of 
rushing into each other's arms with congratulations and 
embraces, not a soul advances to greet them. All have 
gone into the lodge, and each one, at his accustomed 
place, appears as calm, and is pursuing his avocations 
as if they never dreamed of any one approaching them. 
The party in the canoe then come ashore, leaving all 
their traveling equipage in charge of a slave or two, ap- 
parently for the purpose of first ascertaining if their visit 
is welcome. 

They all then enter the lodge, and seat themselves 
around the fire and near the door. No one takes the 
slightest notice of them, nor is a word spoken. I have 
thus seen them sit for ten minutes. At last a few gut- 
tural words from the visitors are answered by a grunt 

H 



170 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

from the others. Other clucking sounds are then heard, 
and gradually they begin to talk, but not much. Food 
is now set before them, and, while they eat, they begin 
to grow social, and at length they throw off all restraint, 
and gabble like so many geese. 

What newspapers are to us, these traveling Indians 
are with each other, and it is astonishing with what dis- 
patch and correctness information is transmitted from 
one part of the country to another. I have frequently, 
by this means, obtained correct intelligence of matters 
transpiring in other portions of the territory weeks be- 
fore the regular mail communication. Old Suis was an 
excellent person to spread news, and no sooner did any 
of her people come with any information, but, woman- 
like, she would run over and inform the captain and my- 
self. It was not customary to place much dependence 
on information derived from such sources, but I often 
found their tales were entirely to be relied on. 

The marriage ceremony is very simple, and consists in 
merely paying the parent or friends of the girl such ar- 
ticles as may be agreed upon, either slaves, canoes, 
guns, blankets, or any thing else they may happen to 
possess. Polygamy is allowed among them, but is not 
very common ; only those who have plenty of means to 
buy wives care to trouble themselves with more than 
one. I have noticed, as a general thing, that the young 
men marry women much older than themselves, while 
the young girls are married to men much their seniors. 
The reason for this is, as I was told by them, that if the 
young men marry young girls, both are so foolish they 
do not know how to take care of each other; so the 
young man takes a wife who has the experience requisite 
to take her proper place in the lodge, and the young girl 
is assisted and taught her duties by her more mature 
husband. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 171 

When a young girl reaches womanhood, she has to go 
through a process of purification, which lasts a moon, or 
month. This is simply by bathing several times a day, 
and rubbing the body with rotten wood procured from 
the hemlock-tree. They are not allowed, during this 
period, to eat of any thing that is in season, either sal- 
mon, sturgeon, shell-fish, or berries, as it is believed 
that, in such cases, the fish would disappear, the shell-fish 
would make them sick, and the berries would fall ofi" the 
bushes without ripening. And should there be a south- 
east wind, with signs of rain, they must, on no pretense, 
go out of the house, for Tod-lux, the south wind, is so of- 
fended if one of these young girls go out of doors, that 
he sends Hah-nes^, the thunder-bird, who shakes his 
wings, and causes the roaring thunder, his eyes, the 
mean while, sending forth sharp flashes of lightning. I 
never knew a thunder-storm occur while I resided in 
the Territory but what was attributed to some girl going 
out during her season of purification. It is at this peri- 
od of life that both young men and women go through a 
ceremony which is to determine their future course in 
Kfe, and is termed by them seeing their Tomahnawos 
or Tomanawos. Those who pass through this ordeal 
safely are generally the doctors, strong men, or skilled in 
all the Indian ways. Schoolcraft's remarks on the fasts 
of the Algonquins, though not precisely adapted to the 
Coast Indians, are so near to my own views that I quote 
the article entire : 

** The rite of fasting is one of the most deep-seated 
and universal in the Indian ritual. It is practiced among 
all the American tribes, and is deemed by them essential 
to their success in life in every situation. No young 
man is fitted and prepared to begin the career of life un- 
til he has accomplished his great fast. Seven days ap- 
pear to have been the ancient maximum limit of endur- 



172 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

ance, and the success of the devotee is inferred from the 
length of continued abstinence to which he is known to 
have attained. These fasts are anticipated bj youth as 
one of the most important events of life. They are 
awaited with interest, prepared for with solemnity, and 
endured with a self-devotion bordering upon the heroic. 
Character is thought to be fixed from this period, and 
the primary fast thus prepared for and successfully es- 
tablished seems to hold that relative importance to sub- 
sequent years that is attached to a public profession of 
religious faith in civilized communities. It is at this pe- 
riod that the young men and young women ' see visions 
and dream dreams,' and fortune or misfortune is predict- 
ed from the guardian spirit chosen during this, to them, 
religious ordeal. The hallucinations of the mind are 
taken for divine inspiration. The efiect is deeply felt 
and strongly impressed on the mind ; too deeply, indeed, 
to be ever obliterated in after life. The father in the 
circle of his lodge, the hunter in the pursuit of the chase, 
and the wamor in the field of battle, think of the guard- 
ian genius which they fancy to accompany them, and 
trust to his power and benign influence under every cir- 
cumstance. This genius is the absorbing theme of their 
silent meditations, and stands to them in all respects in 
place of the Christian's hope, with the single difi*erence 
that, however deeply mused upon, the name is never ut- 
tered, and every circumstance connected with its selec- 
tion, and the devotion paid to it, is most studiously and 
professedly concealed even from their nearest friends. 
Fasts in subsequent life appear to have for their object 
a renewal of the powers and virtues which they attribute 
to the rite ; and they are observed more frequently by 
those who strive to preserve unaltered the ancient state 
of society among them, or by men who assume austere 
habits for the purpose of acquiring influence in the tribe, 



THREE TEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 173 

or as preparatives for war or some extraordinary feat. 
It is not known that there is any fixed day to be ob- 
served as a general fast. So far as the rule is followed, 
a general fast seems to have been observed in the spring, 
and to have joreceded the general and customary feasts 
at that season. 

"It will be inferred from these facts that the Indians 
believe fasts to be very meritorious. They are deemed 
most acceptable to the manitoes, or spirits, whose influ- 
ence and protection they wish to engage or preserve. 
And it is thus clearly deducible that a very large portion 
of the time devoted by the Indians to secret worship, so 
to say, is devoted to these guardians or intermediate 
spirits, and not to the Great Spirit, or Creator." 

These guardian spirits, or manitoes, of the Algonquin, 
are the Tomanawos of the Coast Indian. It is his To- 
manawos that he seeks in early life, and, whatever it may 
be, he never will utter its name even to his nearest or 
dearest friend. This name, Tomanawos, is also applied 
to works of magic performed by doctors, as, for instance, 
maraohe Tomanawos, working medicine or spells ; and a 
doctor or doctress is termed Tomanawos Tnan or To- 
Tndnawos woman ; but when spoken of as nika, mika, 
or yaka Tomanawos, it refers to and means my, your, or 
their guardian spirit. The common people either have 
not passed through the ordeal of the long fast, or, having 
attempted, have failed. Those that have are considered 
as having seen their Tomanawos, or having had super- 
natural revelations, which enable them to perform cures, 
and drive away the evil spirits who molest the sick. 
But all have their own private guardian spirit, to whom 
they make known their wants and troubles, either to ask 
for help, or to bewail and lament the loss of a friend. 
They do not, as is generally supposed, address a Great 
Spirit, neither do they believe in one overruling almighty 



174 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

maker of the world and all things contained therein; 
consequently, they do not address themselves except to 
their own private Tomanawos, or Fetish, or Joss ; and, 
as this worship or petition is always done in private, it 
is the reason why persons, not seeing any outward cere- 
monies among them, assert that they have no belief ei- 
ther in God or a future state. 

They do not believe in the Christian revelation of a 
divine Creator, although many of them have been taught 
the precepts of Christianity by the Catholic priest who 
formerly resided at Chenook, and can give a very general 
account of all the prominent historical parts of the Bible 
from Genesis to our Savior's time ; but that, they say, 
is about the white man's God, and has nothing to do 
with them. Their heaven is in the centre of the earth, 
which they beheve to be hollow, and there all is happi- 
ness. No one reigns supreme there, but those who were 
chiefs on the earth retain their rank in a future state. 
They do not fight, but have a very pleasant time ; and 
every night, if they feel disposed, they can go about re- 
visiting the places they lived at while on earth. 

The only evidence I have met with among them re- 
specting a belief in future punishments appears to be in 
a species of transmigration of souls, which are supposed 
to be turned into birds, beasts, fishes, or even into inan- 
imate subjects. 

The creaking of trees in the forest is to them the wail- 
ing of some memelose or dead person, who has been trans- 
formed into the tree as a punishment for some offense 
committed during life. 

Crows, eagles, owls, blue jays, and various beasts and 
reptiles, are the representations of bad spirits or devils, 
and are called skookums. Even the stones around the 
Bay have their peculiar legend. There are two large 
rocks near the south head of Long Island, in the Bay, 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATEE BAY. 175 

called Mis^chin^ or Louse Rocks, and the legend is that 
they were formerly a chief and his wife, who were very 
bad people, and by their magic first introduced lice 
among Indians ; and one day, while bathing, they were, 
by a superior medicine-man, turned into stones as a pun- 
ishment. 

Their ideas of sins which are to be punished are, how- 
ever, very limited, and apply only to those who commit 
some great crime, as the introduction of disease, or the 
mischin, or other calamities among the tribe. 

When a young person wishes to go through the or- 
deal of the fast, he is usually some time preparing his 
mind for the event, and gradually accustoms himself to 
a reduction of diet preparatory to fasting. When he is 
fully ready, he goes alone in his canoe to the nearest 
landing-place, at the foot of some high mountain, taking 
nothing with him but his axe and a bowl for water. 
After hauling up the canoe and securing it, he fills his 
bowl with water, first having washed himself in the riv- 
er. Then he proceeds to the top of the hill or mount- 
ain, and, having selected a suitable spot, builds a fire. 
His duty now is to keep that fire burning constantly 
during the period of his fast, which lasts from three to 
seven days. During this time he neither sleeps nor 
eats. He may drink a little water, but he must frequent- 
ly wash himself, and on no account let the fire go out. 
This continued fast, together with keeping awake, and 
jumping about over and through the fire and smoke, 
singing, and calling on his Tomanawos to appear, grad- 
ually weakens his nerves so that he sees strange visions. 

A young Indian who had been out for three days, and 
then went to sleep, and did not succeed in his attempt to 
become a doctor, told me that he saw what appeared to 
be the ocean, and out of it all sorts of animals and fish 
were projecting their heads — whales, salmon, bears, seals, 



176 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

lizards, and skookums, or devils. But he had not 
strength to continue his fast any longer, which he should 
have done so that the medicine Tomanawos would have 
appeared to him. It is only the strong men or women 
who see the medicine Tomanawos ; all others see Toman- 
awos of inferior grade. His, instead of being a medi- 
cine, taught him to make canoes and catch salmon and 
sturgeon. 

What he had seen was the fog rising from the river, 
and the tops of the spruce and fir trees reaching above 
it had appeared to his disordered fancy to be the beasts, 
fishes, and devils he had supposed them. 



CHAPTER XL 

Doctors, or Medicine-men. — Simples used as Medicine. — ^Polypodium. 
— ^Wild-cat Hair. — -An excellent Salve. — Disinclination of Indians to 
impart Information in regard to their Medicines. — Necromancy of 
the Doctors. — Sickness of Suis. — Sacodlye, the Doctor, and his Mag- 
ic. — Old John, the Doctor, and his Method. — John removes the 
Devil and Suis recovers. — Old Sal-tsi-mar's Sickness and Death. — 
Description of the Burial. — ^Funeral Ceremonies. — Death Songs. — 
Change of Names on the Death of a Friend. — Meaning of Indian 
Names. — Superstitions and Ceremonies. — Effects of Christianity. — 
Missionaries. — The Indian Idea of the Christian Eeligion. 

The doctors, or medicine-men, are supposed to pos- 
sess the power of exorcising or driving away the meme- 
lose, or spirits of the dead, and the skookums, or evil 
spirits, that are supposed to prey on the vitals of a sick 
person, causing death. 

In all instances where I have seen the doctors per- 
forming cures, it has been by the agency of mesmeric 
influence ; and the stronger that power is possessed by 
the doctor, the more famous does he become as a prac- 
titioner. 

The young men, after passing through the fast, and be- 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATEE BAY. 177 

ing found qualified, are farther instructed by some of the 
old doctors, but particularly as to the nature of the skoo- 
kums, and whether cures can not be effected by simples, 
without resort to mesmerism. As the doctors always 
require high pay for their services, they are not called 
except in extreme cases, that will not yield to common 
treatment. 

The doctors are sometimes subjected to pretty rough 
treatment, and occasionally lose their lives from the as- 
saults of relatives of persons of consequence who may 
have died under their operations. 

Sometimes these doctors make threats against the life 
of persons, and, whenever such a person may subse- 
quently die, the doctor is considered as being the means 
of causing the death, and he is then in danger of his 
own life. 

It has been asserted that it is a universal custom among 
the Indians of Oregon to kill the doctors whenever they 
happen to lose a patient ; but this is not the fact, as the 
numerous old doctors to be found aU over the Territories 
wiU testify. It is only in isolated cases ; and although 
I have heard of sever^ instances from persons of un- 
doubted veracity, I never had one come under my own 
observation, but, on the contrary, have known many doc- 
tors who have lost patients of high rank among the 
tribes, and who are still living, and considered as per- 
sons of great importance. 

Among the medicines I have seen used by the In- 
dians is a species of diminutive cress, found in the dark 
ravines of the forest, which, when pounded up and ap- 
plied to the skin, wiU produce a blister as quick as Span- 
ish flies. Another method I have seen adopted for the 
cure of the headache, or inflamed eyes, is to apply a coal 
of fire to the back of the neck, shoulders, or temples. 
This is pretty certain to raise a blister, and is a species 

H2 



178 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

of pharmacy that is usually on hand, without having to 
resort either to the forest or the apothecary's shop. 

A simple diarrhoea is cured by a tea made from the bark 
of the young hemlock. This is drunk during the win- 
ter season. In the spring, the sprouts of the raspberry, 
eaten, or a tea made of the leaves, is excellent. Sore- 
ness of the joints or ankles from cold is alleviated by 
nettles pounded up with grease, or nettle-roots boiled, 
and tied on the afflicted part. The Polypodium Falca- 
tum, or sickle-leaf polypod, or sweet licorice fern, a para- 
site found on old logs and trees, is a most excellent al- 
terative. This plant, which was sent by me to San 
Francisco to be classified by the Academy of Natural 
Sciences, received its name from Doctor Kellogg, the 
botanist of the society. This plant is found in almost 
all the Western States, where it is called wild licorice, 
and is used by some persons to flavor tobacco. It has 
a sweetish bitter taste, and a decoction is not unpleas- 
ant. I think its properties are equal to those of sarsa- 
parilla. It is also of ancient renown, the polypods of the 
oak being formerly used as a cure for madness. I be- 
lieve this plant grows in many, if not all the states of 
the Union. I have seen it in Massachusetts, Alabama, 
and California, although I never knew its medicinal vir- 
tues till I met with it in Washington Territory. 

Ulcers, or open sores, are cured by a plaster or salve 
made from the ashes of the hairs of a wild-cat mixed 
with grease. I am not aware what particular virtue 
there is in wild-cat hair over any other ; but they have 
a belief to that effect, and consider a wild-cat or a lynx 
skin to possess remarkable medicinal properties. 

The white bryony {Bryonia alba) is found, and its in- 
tensely bitter root is used by the whites in cases of fever 
and ague ; but I have never seen the Indians use it. 
The common herbs, like yarrow, mint, marsh rosemary, 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 179 

and cliamomile, are used for colds, and cases where sim- 
ple remedies only are wanted ; bat the Indians are not 
much given to dosing ; they usually try the effects of 
fasting before they attempt any thing else, and that is, 
in the generality of cases, all that is required. All these 
simples are used by the sick before sending for a doctor. 
He does not give medicine, but works charms or mes- 
merisms. 

There are, undoubtedly, various and numerous kinds 
of plants and shrubs not enumerated, possessing medic- 
inal virtues, which the Indians know of and use, but 
none others have come under my own observation. 

There is a shrub, bearing a leaf similar to the low 
whortleberry in appearance, which makes a most excel- 
lent tea. Many white persons prefer it to the teas that 
are imported. The Indians collect these leaves, and sell 
them occasionally to the whites, and often use them them- 
selves. 

I found out some simple remedies, which, in a wild 
country, are well enough to know. Persons traveling 
for a long time on a sand-beach or over snow, and facing 
a strong wind, are liable to inflamed eyes, and these can 
be relieved, and usually readily cured, by taking the tea- 
leaves, after the tea has been drawn, and binding them 
over the eyes on going to bed at night. A wash, made 
by boiling the leaves of the Sallal in water, and frequently 
bathing the eyes, is also excellent. 

Persons working in the salt water in the Bay during 
the winter and spring were very liable to get scratched 
or cut with oyster-shells, which frequently caused bad 
ulcer sores. These were cured by applying a poultice 
of raw potato, grated or scraped fine, and renewed often. 
The potato is a very powerful remedial agent in all cases 
of scurvy, and is one of those ready remedies that are 
usually within the reach of every one. One of the best 



180 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

salves I ever met with was made by these Indians from 
the pure white gum of the spruce, melted with equal 
parts of bears' grease or hogs' lard. In the spring, when 
the sap begins to start, they cut a gash in the side of 
the tree, and the gum runs out as clear as water. In a 
short time it hardens, and then looks precisely like cam- 
phor. It is then scraped off, and melted in large clam- 
shells set on hot ashes. It makes an excellent, clean, 
healthy, and healing salve, and is in much repute. They 
very seldom bind up any wound, but simply rub on this 
salve, and leave the rest to nature. 

I remarked a general disinclination to impart any in- 
formation respecting their medicines, and only found out 
by seeing them prepare the diiFerent kinds at various 
times, when, on my asking what the use of them was, 
they would tell me. The reason of this is that they are 
at aU times ready to beg of the whites aU the medicines 
they can ; and they think, if the white folks know they 
have remedies of their own, they would be unwilling to 
give away the drugs that have cost money. Then, 
again, it is some trouble for them to hunt up medicines 
when they are sick ; for, till they are sick, they never 
think of collecting a stock to be kept on hand, and it is 
far easier to get relief from the stock of some white per- 
son's medicine-chest than to hunt all over the woods 
and marshes for simples. Bathing in cold water is a 
remedy they use for rheumatism. On the Columbia the 
Indians use sweat-houses, but I never have met with 
any on the Coast. They there cause a perspiration by 
drinking hot herb tea, and rolhng themselves up in 
blankets near the fire. 

The doctors have various kinds of necromancy or jug- 
glery which they perform for the cure of their patients. 
Nor do they all possess the same gifts. One is cele- 
brated for his power in driving away the memelose, or 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAT. 181 

spirits of the dead, and another for exorcising the skoo- 
kums or evil spirits. A description of the method prac- 
ticed by two doctors to cure a woman who recovered and 
another who died, will serve to show the general method 
adopted by all the doctors of the Coast tribes, it being 
borne in mind that each doctor has his own peculiar 
songs and methods of manipulation. 

Old Suis had been attacked with liver complaint, and 
was very sick. Both the captain and myself were per- 
fectly aware of the nature of her sickness, but we had no 
suitable medicine to give her. She at last grew so ill 
that her death was expected at any moment. She had 
deferred sending for a doctor, as she knew they would 
expect her to pay a round price, and she did not feel in- 
clined to part with her property. However, at last she 
consented, and sent for a doctor named Sa-co-dlye, who 
had married a relative of hers. When he came he brought 
his family with him, consisting of his wife and a little 
girl. Sa-co-dlye was famous for driving away the mem- 
elose. The superstition relative to these departed spir- 
its is that they enjoy themselves so much in their new 
state of existence that they wish all their friends to join 
them, and, whenever they find any one slightly ill, they 
try all in their power to induce the invalid to go with 
them to the Tnemelose illihe, or the land of the dead. 
They even believe that we think as they do in some re- 
spects. They have heard the priest speak of angels, 
and, on one occasion, having showed some of them a 
print whereon was depicted a sleeping saint surrounded 
by angels beckoning her to go to heaven, they exclaim- 
ed, " There! that is like our memelose, only ours have 
not got birds' wings like yours." The idea conveyed to 
us was precisely the same as their own, of spirits hover- 
ing in the air, but they were puzzled to know where our 
memelose got their wings from. 



182 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OK, 

Now Sa-co-dlye was famous for inducing these spirits 
to go home to their own quarters, and let his friends and 
patients alone. Supposing, therefore, the illness of old 
Suis to proceed from the visits of her dead friends — pos- 
sibly some of her departed husbands ; for, like the woman 
of Samaria, she had had seven — he went to work to send 
them away. 

After he had eaten, and the lodge was all cleaned out 
and fresh sand strewed over the floor, Suis was laid on 
some nice new mats, and covered with new white blank- 
ets. A large fire was made in the centre of the lodge, 
and a great blaze kept up by one whose business it was 
to occasionally pour oil into the flames. The occupants 
of the lodge seated themselves around the fire, each hav- 
ing a pole long enough to reach the roof overhead, which 
they kept thumping all the while, to keep time to a plaint- 
ive chant they all sung. 

Sa-co-dlye knelt at the feet of the patient, and com- 
menced by singing a refrain, when the rest would join 
and sing in the chorus, the burden of the song being an 
address to the spirits of the dead, with a request for them 
to leave their mother with them a little longer, closing 
with a request that the mem close would clattawah kee^ 
quilly^ or go down to their abode. The singing was 
accompanied with violent gestures by Sa-co-dlye, who 
would roll up his eyes in a fearful manner, and then 
pass his hands over the face and person of the patient, 
precisely the same that I have frequently seen performed 
by professors of mesmerism. The result was that Suis 
went to sleep, and when she awoke, some hours after, 
she was much refreshed, not having had any sleep before 
for several days. Sa-co-dlye performed these ceremo- 
nies several times, both night and day, and the plaintive 
chorus, in which the men, women, and children joined, 
sounded melancholy and solemn as it fell on the ear dur- 
ing the stillness of the night. 



THREE TEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 183 

However, Sa-co-dlye found that his charms did not 
produce the desired effect. Suis had a skookum or evil 
spirit in her which he could not remove, and which was 
devouring her vitals. He was certainly right in his 
conjecture, as any one who has ever had the liver com- 
plaint can attest. They, therefore, sent across the Bay 
for another celebrated doctor, who always went by the 
name of Old John. He was a powerful magnetizer and 
clairvoyant, and could read the internal structure of a 
patient as easily as a white man could a newspaper. 
This fact they took great pains to tell me when I sug- 
gested that one doctor was enough. He, they said, 
kumtux hiyu ickters^ knows many things. So Old John 
came, bringing with him his family, consisting of some 
half a dozen persons. These, added to the others, who 
all remained, made a very formidable battery with which 
to attack the poor old roof while the doctor should ma- 
rrwke Tomdnawos, or work charms. The style of opera- 
tions was now materially changed. Old John sat down 
at the patient's feet, with his head covered up under his 
blanket, and there he remained a long time, nearly half 
or three quarters of an hour. A large fire which had pre- 
viously been built was now reduced to a bed of coals, 
which were kept alive by additions of rotten wood, which 
did not blaze, but made a smoke. All at once he threw 
off his blanket, and commenced singing in a loud voice 
a most barbarous song, and throwing himself about in a 
most excited manner. In his hands he had large scal- 
lop-shells, which he rattled like castanets, the chorus in 
the mean time keeping up their pounding, with the ad- 
dition, over the other performance, of a couple of tin 
pans and a brass kettle, which served very perceptibly 
to increase the din. 

John then, throwing down his castanets, went through 
the mesmeric passes tiU Suis was asleep. Then he 



184 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

"bore his whole weight, pressing his clenched fists on 
to the patient's chest till I thought he would kill the 
woman. Then he would scoop his hands together as if 
he had caught something, which he would then try and 
blow through his hands into the coals. These ceremo- 
nies continued for an hour, or till the old fellow was so 
exhausted with his exertions he could do no more. 

When Suis waked up she did not feel particularly re- 
freshed, but complained of severe pain. John said it 
was right, for he had seen the skookum, and, no doubt, 
should remove it. I inquired why they in one case cast 
oil on the fire, and in the other had no blaze, but only 
smoke. They said that the memelose wished Suis to 
go with them, so she might be happier and have more 
comforts ; but they wished to show the memelose that 
she had plenty of both friends and property ; so they 
built a big blaze, that the memelose could see the nice 
clean lodge she had, and the plenty with which she was 
surrounded. 

But in the other case, all they wanted of the fire was 
to burn the skookum as soon as Old John should catch 
it. He had nearly caught it, but it had slipped out of 
his hand ; but they were certain he would get it in a day 
or two. John continued his operations through the 
night at intervals of three or four hours, and the next 
day Suis was taken with vomiting, and, to the utter 
astonishment of the captain and myself, recovered, and 
was well in less than a week. 

Whether the cure was efiected by the severe manipu- 
lation she had undergone, or by the effects of mesmer- 
ism, or from her own strong constitution receiving reac- 
tion by her fasting, I am not prepared to say, but sim- 
ply state the fact that she got perfectly well. 

The other case to which I alluded was that of an old 
woman named Sal-tsi-mar, who lived with her people on 



THREE TEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 185 

a little creek about an eighth of a mile from us. She 
was quite old, and had been for a long time troubled 
with the liver complaint, similar to Suis. This sort of 
sickness appears to be quite common among them, and 
may be caused by their living on such rank, oily food 
as whale's blubber, seals, and stale salmon-eggs. Be 
that as it may, I have noticed the complaint frequently 
in both old and young. Sometimes, on its first appear- 
ance, they will blister their sides with a poultice of the 
cress I before mentioned, and commonly this relieves 
them. Old Sal-t si-mar was too old and too far gone for 
either blisters or doctors to do her any good, and, conse- 
quently, she died. She had considerable property in 
blankets and Chinese chests, and also had hoarded up a 
large quantity of silver money. Consequently, when it 
was announced that she was about to die, she found her- 
self surrounded (as many an old white woman of proper- 
ty has been) by a host of disconsolate friends, weeping 
and lamenting at her approaching end, ready, when the 
last breath is drawn, to dry their eyes and go to fight- 
ing for the spoils. 

In this instance old Cartumhays, and old Mahar, a cel- 
ebrated doctor, were th^ chief mourners, probably from 
being the smartest scamps among the relatives. Their 
duty was to prepare the canoe for the reception of the 
body. One of the largest and best the deceased had 
owned was then hauled into the woods, at some distance 
back of the lodge, after having been first thoroughly 
washed and scrubbed. Two large square holes were 
then cut in the bottom, at the bow and stem, for the 
twofold purpose of rendering the canoe unfit for further 
use, and therefore less likely to excite the cupidity of the 
whites (who are but too apt to help themselves to these 
depositories for the dead), and also to allow any rain to 
pass off readily. 



186 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

When the canoe was ready, the corpse, wrapped in 
blankets, was brought out, and laid in it on mats previ- 
ously spread. All the wearing apparel was next put in 
beside the body, together with her trinkets, beads, little 
baskets, and various trifles she had prized. More blank- 
ets were then covered over the body, and mats smoothed 
over all. Next, a small canoe, which fitted into the 
large one, was placed, bottom up, over the corpse, and 
the whole then covered with mats. The canoe was then 
raised up and placed on two parallel bars, elevated four 
or five feet from the ground, and supported by being in- 
serted through holes mortised at the top of four stout 
posts previously firmly planted in the earth. Around 
these poles were then hung blankets, and all the cooking 
utensils of the deceased, pots, kettles, and pans, each with 
a hole punched through it, and all her crockery- ware, ev- 
ery piece of which was first cracked or broken, to render 
it useless ; and then, when all was done, they left her to 
remain for one year, when the bones would be buried in 
a box in the earth directly under the canoe ; but that, 
with all its appendages, would never be molested, but 
left to go to gradual decay. 

They regard these canoes precisely as we regard cof- 
fins, and would no more think of using one than we 
should of using our own grave-yard relics ; and it is, in 
their view, as much of a desecration for a white man to 
meddle or interfere with these, to them, sacred memen- 
toes, as it would be to us to have an Indian break open 
the graves of our relatives. Many thoughtless white 
men have done this, and animosities have been thus oc- 
casioned. 

While the corpse remained in the house, not a word 
was spoken except in a whisper, nor did they commence 
their lamentations till the whole funeral ceremonies were 
over ; then, the signal being given, they began to sing a 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 189 

death-song, and thump the roof with their long poles, 
Tomhays and Mahar alternately leading off the reci- 
tative, while the rest joined in the chorus. The burden 
of the song, as it was afterward related to me in Jargon, 
may be translated as foUows. It is simply an address 
to the dead, stating their love for her, the many years 
she had lived with and taught them, that she was not 
poor, and had no occasion to go to a better country, and 
they saw no reason why she should go to the land of 
the dead, and was something like this : 

" Oh, our mother ! why did you go and leave us so sad ? We can 
scarcely see by reason of the water that falls from our eyes. 

" Many years have you lived with us, and taught us the words of 
wisdom. 

" You were not poor, neither are we poor ; neither were you weak, 
but your heart and limbs were strong. 

" You should have lived with us many years, and told us more of the 
deeds of ancient times." 

Every day, at sunrise and sunset, this chant is repeated 
by the relatives for thirty days — when the days of 
mourning are ended — but never, on any pretense, must 
the name of the deceased be spoken till after the bones 
are finally deposited in their last resting-place ; and fre- 
quently years will elapse before they dare call the name 
again. 

On these occasions they always change their own 
names, as they think the spirits of the dead will come 
back if they hear the same name called that they were 
accustomed to hear before death. Toke, who had lost a 
daughter just previous to my going to the Bay, call- 
ed himself Chehait. Heyalma, whose brother died at 
Russell's, called himself Cletheas. Tomhays changed 
his to Senequa, and Toraanawos his to Winasie. Yan- 
cumux, a brother of Tomanawos, changed his to Yako- 
wilk. 

I always supposed that Indian names had some direct 



190 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

reference to objects of nature, as " The White Flower 
of the Prairie," "The War-eagle," &c., and the hundred 
other poetical names made familiar to us by skillful pens 
of ready poets. 

But in the case of these Indians it was not so. Un- 
doubtedly, could their names be traced up to their origin, 
they, like our own, would be found to refer to some in- 
cident long ago forgotten. I frequently asked the mean- 
ing of different persons' names, and was told that they 
did not mean any thing. Those that I have mentioned 
were names of some of their ancestors, but what those 
names meant they did not know. One day, while being 
more than usually inquisitive, old Suis, to whom I was 
talking, after trying to make me understand that the 
names I was asking about had no meaning, at last said, 
" Why, you white people have names like ours ; some 
mean something, and others mean nothing. I know 
your name. Swan, is like our word Cocumb, and means 
a big bird ; and Mr. Lake's name is for water, like Shoal- 
water Bay. But what does Mr. EusselFs, or Baldt's, or 
Champ's, or HiUyer's, or Sweeney's, or Weldon's name 
mean?" 

I told her I did not know. " Well," she replied, " so 
it is with us. We don't know what those names you 
have asked mean ; all we know is that they were the 
names of our ancestors — elip tillicums, or first people." 

Those names that she knew she explained to me ; for 
instance, Carcowan's son was named TleyuJc, meaning a 
spark of fire ; another was named Yelloh, or the whale ; 
another chief's name is Cocuwh^ or the swan ; another, 
from his ingenuity, was called Squintum^ or the w^hite 
man ; and a young squaw, named Spaarh^ or the rose ; 
and another, named Wheeark, or the eagle. Others are 
named for some deformity, as Dusheerhutch, the long 
back ; or Keer-ukso^ crooked nose. 



THKEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 191 

This system of names they apply to the whites. One 
who had a large beard was called Chepoochucks ; anoth- 
er one, marked by the small-pox, was named Pekose ; a 
freckled man was called Tsum Bill ^ and old M'Carty, 
whose hair was short and bristly, was named Cushu Bill, 
or Hog Bill. This propensity to change names and adopt 
new ones appears to have been common with the tribes 
on the northeastern coast as well as the northwest. In 
Douglas's summary of the History of the British Pos- 
sessions in North America, published in 1747, he says 
of the Indians of New England : 

" There is not the same reason for preserving the 
names of the countries, nations, tribes, mountains, and 
rivers as there is for preserving the Greek, Eoman, and 
other more modern names of such things in Europe. 
The Indians have no civil or classical history to require 
it. The Indians change their own personal names, and 
the names of other things, upon the most trifling occa- 
sions. Our Indians affect to have English names ; thus 
Massasoit's two sons desired of the court of Plymouth 
to give them names. They were accordingly named Al- 
exander and Philip." 

Although the Indians mentioned had changed their 
names, they were called by the whites usually after the 
old style, particularly Tomhays, and Toke, and Yancu- 
mux. We knew them by those cognomens, and it was 
difficult, under the name of Chehait, to recognize drunk- 
en old Toke, or, under that of Senequa, to call to mind 
the cunning, thieving, lying Cartumhays, or to address 
the jolly, good-natured Yancumux as Yakowilk; but we 
managed very well with the others, and called them by 
whichever name we happened to think of. 

At the expiration of one year from the time a person 
dies, the friends assemble, and after collecting the bones, 
wrap them up in a new cotton cloth, and either bury 



192 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

them directly under the canoe, as before stated, or, in 
some instances, collect them, and have them buiied in 
one family cemetery. Toke's ancestors and his own 
family had been buried at Toke's Point, but several of 
the connections of the family had been buried at differ- 
ent parts of the Bay. It was at length decided to collect 
all these remains together, and transport them to Toke's 
Point. This was performed during the ensuing summer ; 
but, although they allowed me to cross the Bay with 
them, they left me sitting in the lodge we had stopped 
at eating sturgeon, and slipped off with their relics, which 
they buried at another place. I asked them, when they 
returned, what they meant by treating me so. They re- 
plied that at first they were willing I should witness their 
ceremonies ; but when they reflected that the spirits of 
all those dead persons, and hosts of others, were stand- 
ing round, watching to see that every thing was rightly 
performed, they felt afraid to have me with them, lest 
the memelose should be angry. 

All the fasts or observances I had witnessed bore no 
resemblance to any form which we denominate worship ; 
and, as has before been remarked, they have each a pri- 
vate Tomanawos, or guardian spirit, to whom they make 
all their wants known, and that in the most private man- 
ner. It must not be supposed, however, that they have 
no religious sentiment. In fact, the Indian is at all 
times impressed with the sense of the actual presence of 
his Tomanawos ; and whatever he does, whether it be 
good or bad, stealing or helping, murdering or giving aid, 
he always looks for assistance from his Tomanawos. The 
only outward demonstration of address to the spiritual 
world that I saw was during cases of sickness, or when 
bewailing the dead. 

All of them had a general idea of the Christian relig- 
ion, but not one believed it, although several had been 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAT. 193 

considered, during the residence of the priest at Chenook, 
as exemplary members of the Church. But when the 
restrictions of the Church were taken away by the ab- 
sence of the priest, they all returned to their old heathen- 
ism again. They can not strictly be termed idolators, 
for they do not worship the outward symbols of any 
thing ; that is directly opposed to their system of studi- 
ously concealing the name of their Tomanawos ; and if 
that Tomanawos should chance to have been a bear or a 
salmon, by making an image of either, and addressing it 
in terms of adoration or supplication, they would at once 
reveal the name and object of their secret worship. 

The only way, in my opinion, in which an Indian can 
be thoroughly changed and Christianized is by either 
taking the child from its parents and bringing it up un- 
der Christian instruction, and away from tribal influ- 
ences and prejudices, or t6 gradually civilize a tribe, and 
let the rising generation make the change. In all the 
accounts we have that are to be relied upon, it will be 
seen that any and all Christian Indians are those of a 
generation succeeding that to whom the missionaries first 
addressed themselves ; and all the missionaries who have 
reaUy and truly succeeded, have done so by first teach- 
ing the Indian the manners of a civilized life, and grad- 
ually, as he became accustomed to a change of life, they 
could teach him a change of heart. All other converts, 
or seeming converts, who have been suffered to live in 
their primitive style, are sure at heart to retain their an- 
cient religion. Nor is this strange. From their earliest 
infancy they have heard the legends and mythological 
tales told them daily, and on every occasion, by the an- 
cient people, by their own parents, and repeated by their 
playfellows. These early impressions can not be easily 
eradicated. 

The same difficulties in approaching the Indian tribes 
I 



194 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

was experienced in the early settlement of the country. 
The missionaries are not always chosen from the right 
class of people ; zealous themselves, they press their 
zeal without knowledge, and attempt to make the In- 
dians understand the mysterious doctrines of our relig- 
ion, when, in fact, the Indian is like an infant scarce able 
to either talk or understand. 

Douglass, in his Summary* (vol. ii., p. 161), writing 
on the religion of the Indians of New England, gives his 
ideas of the method practiced by the missionaries at that 
time, which is very appHcable to the present. He re- 
marks : " Some Indians of sagacity, a little civilized and 
instructed toward the Christian religion, can give no dis- 
tinct account of any Indian religion, and stumble much 
at the mysteries of our Christian religion, being indis- 
creetly crowded upon them at once, and with too much 
impetuosity, without previous instruction. 'If you do 
not believe immediately you will be damned,' is the ex- 
pression of our zealots ; whereas they ought to be first 
tamed by familiarity and fair dealing. * * * Our 
missionaries, void of common prudence, in a reverse pre- 
posterous manner, begin with the abstruse articles of the 
Christian religion, and thence proceed to instruct them 
in the plain, easy dictates of nature. 

" In a silly, low, cant way, some of our preachers tell 
the Indians that the Christians' God is a better God than 
the Indians' God, whereas they ought to inform them 
that there is but one supreme God, and that our manner 
of worshipping this God is more agreeable to the God- 
head, as being more natural and decent. 

'' If some of our traders were instructed, and, at a 

public charge, capacitated to sell cheap among the In- 

* See "A Summary, Historical and Political, of the first Planting, 
Progressive Improvements, and Present State of the British Settle- 
ments in iS'orth America, by William Douglass, M.D. 2 vols. 8vo. J. 
Dodsley, London. 1760." 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 195 

dians, they would gain their affections in this trading 
familiar manner, and lay a good foundation for their con- 
version toward Christianity. An abrupt Christian mis- 
sion among them seems absurd. If the Emperor of 
China, or the Grand Turk, should send such missiona- 
ries into Great Britain to convert the people there to the 
doctrines of Confucius or Mohammed, instead of gaining 
proselytes he would avert them." 

Dr. Douglass then states, " I do not find that Christian- 
ity is like to have any footing among the Indians. We 
are not exemplary enough in our dealings or in common 
life. The Indians say that they can not perceive man- 
kind the better for being Christians ; Christians cheat 
them out of their lands and other effects, and sometimes 
deprive them of their lives. The Indians are in all re- 
spects wild, and know nothing of the rudiments of relig- 
ion; and the missionaries, instead of first taming and 
civilizing them, and next instructing them in the prin- 
ciples of natural religion and morality, begin with the 
sublime mysteries of our religion, such as. How many 
persons are there in the Godhead ? and the like. Thus 
firom the beginning they are bewildered and lost forever. 
Some ^xs.Q,i\Q,Q jpice fraudes^ which at first may amuse, but 
afterward, when discovered, leave a permanent prejudice 
against the Christian religion. Thus it is said that some 
French missionaries, in relating to the Indians the his- 
tory of our Savior's birth and suffering, tell them that 
the Virgin Mary was a French woman,, and that the En- 
glish crucified our Savior." 

I do not know that the missionaries of the present 
enlightened age go quite so far as those mentioned by 
Douglass, but the results are little better. Greenhow re- 
marks of the results of the Jesuits in California, '' That 
their efforts are attended with good can not be denied ; 
for those who were the objects of their immediate care 



196 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

were certainly rendered happier, more comfortable, and 
more free from vice than they would otherwise have 
been ; but, although they did introduce a certain degree 
of civilization, or apparent civilization, among these peo- 
ple, yet there is no reason to believe that, by any means 
as yet employed for the purpose, a single Californian In- 
dian has been rendered a useful or even an innocuous 
member of society." 

The present state of the Indian population in Oregon 
and Washington does not reflect much credit on their 
Christian acquirements ; and although, in times of peace, 
they are willing to flock round the missions, and receive 
spiritual as well as temporal food, yet no sooner does an 
opportunity occur when they can raise the war-whoop, 
than we find these Christian converts among the most 
ruthless of the savages in their horrid deeds of blood. 

The Indians can see but little or no difference between 
their system of Tomanawos and our own views as taught 
them. For instance, the talipus, or fox, is their emblem 
of the creative power ; the smispee, or duck, that of wis- 
dom. And they say that the Boston people, or Ameri- 
cans, have for their Tomanawos the wheark^ or eagle, 
and that the King George, or English people, have a lion 
for their Tomanawos. 

In matters of religion, as taught them by the priest, 
they have no idea of their spiritual signification. The 
emblem of the Holy Spirit is to them a simple pigeon, 
and the Agnus Dei but a sheep, la mouton being the 
only word which can be used to express the meaning of 
the emblem. ISTor can they be made to understand or 
believe the miraculous history of our Savior's birth. The 
difficulty with these, as with all other savage tribes, is the 
want of suitable words to convey our ideas. The Indian 
must first be taught the English language, and then they 
can imderstand what the English or Americans wish to 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 197 

teach them ; for it is impossible, in their barbarous jar- 
gon, to convey any but the most commonplace ideas, and 
the above instances cited are but a few of the difficulties 
to be contended with in an attempt to establish a free 
and perfect interchange of thought. 

As the country becomes more thickly settled, and they 
are brought more in contact with civilization, their con- 
dition may improve, and they become able to understand 
what, to them, now are but words of foolishness. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Amusements. — Games. — Children's Amusements. — Imitate the Priest. 
— Keadily learn Needle-work. — Fond of Singing. — Songs. — History 
of the Chenooks and Chehalis. — Difficulty of understanding the Le- 
gends. — Creation of Man. — Origin of Coast Tribes. — Evidences of 
Emigration. — Tradition of a Junk wrecked at Clatsop Beach. — Bees- 
wax found on the Beach. — Eemarks on the various Theories respect- 
ing the Origin of the Indians. — Lewis and Clarke's Names of Tribes. 
— The correct Names of the Tribes. — Former Tribes of Shoal-water 
Bay. — Evidences of great Mortality among the Coast Tribes. — The 
Feeling of the Indians respecting the Dead. — Meares's Account of 
the Nootkans being Cannibals. — ^Vancouver doubts the Truth of 
Meares. — Indian Dread of Skulls. — ^Anecdote respecting their Fears. 

During the whole of my residence among the Coast 
Indians, I never witnessed among the adults any dispo- 
sition to play athletic games, such as wrestling, running 
races, or playing ball. Young fellows will occasionally, 
when half di'unk, have a rough-and-tumble scuffle with 
each other, but without any system that would dignify 
it with the name of game, as applied to gymnastic or 
other feats of strength. All they seem to care for in the 
way of amusement is gambling. The children, however, 
are full of play, and are in all respects like little white 
folks, differing only in being a little more wild and shy 
of strangers. I can only compare the two to the chicks 



198 



THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 



idtlie 



of the partridge on the one hand and the chickens ot tne 
domestic hen on the other. The little Indian children, 
when disturbed in their play, will run, like young par- 
tridges, not to their mother, but into the nearest bush or 
tall grass, from whence their little, black, shining eyes 
can be seen peeping out to catch a glimpse of the in- 
truder. 

There were a number of children in the vicinity of 
my house, and as I always noticed them when they 
came with their parents, and gave them plenty of sugar, 
to eat, or boiled rice, of which they are very fond, I grad- 
ually won their confidence, and occasionally old Suis 
would have a lot of these little boys and girls to visit her, 
when they would throw off all restraint, and perform 
their little plays as if no stranger was among them. 
Like all children, they are very fond of a swing ; and to 
amuse them, Peter, who, though a young man, felt like a 
child for play, made a swing by putting up a couple of 
spars like the shears used on board ship, and from the top 
of these spars, which were joined together at their upper 
end, hung a single rope, with a loop at its lower extrem- 
ity. Into this loop they would get, one or two at a 
time, and swing away for hours, taking turns in causing 
the momentum by means of puUing a line attached to 
the bottom of the swing. 

The boys were fond of making canoes either from 
flags, which were twisted so as to form a sort of boat, or 
from chips, on which they would hoist a leaf for a sail, 
and start them off on voyages down the creek. Some- 
times a lad with more ingenuity than the rest would 
carve out a pretty model of a canoe from a cedar stick ; 
and I have seen boys, with little canoes which they had 
made, scarce three feet long, fearlessly paddle about the 
water in these little cockles, which seemed ready at any 
moment to sink. 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 199 

Sometimes the Ifbjs would catch a lot of minnows, 
and then the girls would join them, and, having made a 
little fire and a miniature rack for smoking fish, would 
imitate the manner of curing salmon, which, when done, 
were served up as a repast. The girls were very fond 
of making rag babies and dressing up clam-shells like 
children. One of these girls, a sister of Peter and a 
niece of old Suis, had a small trunk full of these rag 
dolls dressed in all sorts of style, which she used to pa- 
rade out whenever her little friends came to see her. 
One day, when a number of these children were there on 
a visit, I noticed they were very busy on the beach, 
where they seemed intently engaged in some very quiet 
games. I went where they were seated, and found they 
were playing church, and were imitating the Catholic 
service that they had seen at Chenook. One smart lit- 
tle fellow, about fifteen years old, named Quel-lah-ho, 
was officiating as priest, and had proceeded so far as the 
baptism, which at that time he was engaged in, bestow- 
ing names on all the dolls belonging to the party. He 
would rattle over the Latin, or what to him seemed as 
such, giving the priest's intonations in a most aston- 
ishing manner, and so nearly right that a person at a 
short distance might readily suppose he was actually 
performing the Catholic service. As the girls objected 
to his putting water on their babies, he was using dry 
sand instead, and when it came the time to chant, they 
all joined in as near an imitation as they could. 

When I came up they did not observe me till I had 
watched them some time, when they all got into the 
greatest glee, thinking the whole subject a capital joke. 
^'^Ensika, mamoJce heehee La PlaU^^^ or, " We are play- 
ing priest," said they, in answer to my inquiry what 
they were doing. I told them it was not right for them 
to make fun of the priest, and they must not play priest 



200 



THE NOETHWEST COAST; OK, 



any more* They promised that thfty would not, but in- 
sisted that their dolls should retain the names their 
priest had given them. 

I afterward found that this was one of the favorite 
plays with the children, and showed how much value the 
ritual of the Church had either in their eyes or in their 
parents', who used to encourage them to mimic the cere- 
monies that they had seen at Chenook. 

The girls all learn the use of the needle early, and, 
although their style of sewing is not what would show 
well on fine muslin, yet, like that kind of tailoring said 
to have been performed by a celebrated personage, who 
mended his garments by sewing them with a rope, if it 
is not neat, it is strong. 

I have seen one of these little girls, Anwillik, Peter's 
sister, who was not over twelve years old, take a piece 
of calico, cut out dresses for herself and two other little 
girls who were her slaves, and have the gowns made up 
and be wearing them in less than half a day. 

They are all very fond of singing, and some of their 
tunes are plaintive and sweet. 

The following are some of those that I can recollect. 

They generally improvise as they sing ; but, when they 

have no particular object to sing about, they use certain 

words which have about the same meaning as our fa, 

sol, la. 

BOAT SONG. 




:e 



Ah lah we 



All lah we yah, we 



yah. 



I 



±- 



Ah lah we yah, Ah lah we yah, we 



yah. 



I 



=t5: 



tc 



i 



Ah lah we yah, Ah lah we yah, we yah. 



THEEE TEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 



201 



The preceding song is repeated over and over till the 
singer is tired. 

nSHIXG SONG. 



I 



;s 



n 



-•— r 



4- 



i 



Oh ah ah ah. Oh ah we yah, Oh ah we yah, 

H , K ■ . I I - S N 



Oh ah we yah, Oh 



we yah, we yah. 



INDIAN WOMAN'S SONG TO HER HUSBAND WHO AB- 
SENTS HIMSELF. 



pfe^^g ^^^^^^g 



# — — 

Cah mi - ka Klat - te-wah, Cah mi - ka Klat - te-wah. 




Kor - na - way sun. 



Hiu - - kly An-na - wil - lee. 



Oh nika tenas, hias cla hai am, hiu klv, komaway sun, nika tenas, 
Komaway halo, ensika muck a muck, wake siah memelose, nika tenas. 

"Where do you go to every day, and cause me to cry all the time? 
My little child is poor and hungry, but has nothing to eat, as our food 
is aU gone, and before long my little one will be dead." 

There does not appear to be any regular form of words 
used like songs with us, but almost always the incidents 
of the moment form themes for their tunes, as with us 
they are subjects for conversation. 

SUIS'S SONG TO HER TOMANAWOS, 




f^ie 



^ 



iEs 



Wah ich ah, wah wah wah ah, Wah ich ah, wah 






^^ 



^rj-p^-^ 



■ ^ S J 'Z^ SJ 



O & eJ si ' fJ c ^ f!) f: J '-^ 
wah wah ah ah ah ah ah oh oh oh oh oh oh oh oh wah ut. 
12 



202 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

SA-CO-DLYE'S TOMANAWOS SONG. 



E^^ 



?2=-P~f2- 



-r^ 



fdf^zidV 



:^ 



:p=p: 






fe^J^ 



Ah all ah ah we yah, Ah ah ah ah we yah. 
GAMBLING SONG. 




ich e - - e, "Wa - ich Wa - ich ah ah ah ah. 



MEDICINE SONG. 



:|i^E?^^=^^:E^Ef^^^^ 



hi tu e 00 



ha hi tu 



oo ha ha 



H 



^_^=^=^_^^=^ 



ha ha ha ha ha 



ha ha hi tu 



^E &E$^E^E^ s:X:X::^. — §. 



yah oh-o-o-o-o-o-o-o- o-o-- oh. 

While these songs are sung, time is kept by beating 
with sticks, or thumping the roof of the lodge with a 
pole. 

Of the early history of the Chenook or Chehalis tribes 
nothing possibly can be known with certainty. Like all 
the rest of the North American Indians, they have no 
written legends ; neither have these tribes any monu- 
ments, or any other relics of antiquity. A few hiero- 
glyphics, rudely painted on cedar slabs, are the only rec- 
ords that I have met with, and these were o;Qly the To- 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY, 203 

manawos or Totem of individual chiefs or doctors, and 
served rather, like the inscriptions on our grave-stones, 
to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, than to give, 
or attempt to give, any historical information. 

All that we learn of the early history of these aborig- 
ines comes to us in the shadowy form of myths, and al- 
legories, and traditions related by the old. This is but 
poor authority for events that have transpired centuries 
ago, and we are only left to speculative theories to help 
us form what, from its very uncertainty, must be but a 
faint glimmering of the truth. 

The great difficulty of rightly comprehending the pre- 
cise meaning of these legends, and the want of system 
in translating, are also obstacles which every writer on 
Indian history iinds in his way, no two translators being 
found who will render the same legend in the same man- 
ner. The tale of the origin of mankind, or, rather, of 
their tribe, for the Chenook and Chehalis appear to have 
the same account, was related to me several times by 
different Indians, but they did not agree together in de- 
tail. The substance of the tradition is this : 

Ages ago, an old man named Toolux (or the South 
Wind), while traveling to the north, met an old woman, 
named Quoots-hooi, who was an ogress and a giantess. 
He asked her for food, when she gave him a net, telling 
him that she had nothing to eat, and he must go and try 
to catch some fish. He accordingly dragged the net, 
and succeeded in catching a grampus, or, as the Indians 
called it, " a little whale." This he was about to cut 
with his knife, when the old woman cried out to him to 
take a sharp shell, and not to cut the fish crossways, but 
split it down the back. He, without giving heed to what 
she said, cut the fish across the side, and was about to 
take off a piece of blubber, but the fish immediately 
changed into an immense bird, that when flying com- 



204 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

pletelj obscured the sun, and the noise made by its 
wings shook the earth. This bird, which they called 
Hahness, then flew away to the north, and lit on the top 
of the Saddleback Mountain, near the Columbia River. 
Toolux and the old woman then journeyed north in 
search of Hahness, and one day, while Quoots-hooi was 
engaged in picking berries on the side of the mountain, 
she found the nest of the thunder-bird, full of eggs, 
which she commenced breaking and eating, and from 
these mankind were produced. 

The thunder-bird came back, and, finding its nest de- 
stroyed, returned to Toolux for redress ; but neither of 
them ever after could find the ogress, although they reg- 
ularly returned to the north every year. 

It is probably this tradition which has caused their 
present superstitious belief that the first salmon caught 
must not be cut across, but must be split down the back, 
and then split in thin flakes. If it should be cut con- 
trary to their practice, then all the salmon will leave, 
and no more be taken that season. The same result 
would ensue if a salmon's heart should be lost or eaten 
by a dog. 

This allegorical tale, if it means any thing, would seem 
to refer to the coming of their ancestors from the south, 
either California or Mexico. But the Mexican tradi- 
tions, on the contrary, according to Prescott, continually 
refer to the fact oi their ancestors coming from the north. 

Some writers have asserted that the Indians are the 
lost tribes of Israel ; others that they came over from the 
Asiatic shores and from China. Some that they found 
their way around by the northwest, either by crossing 
Behring's Straits, and proceeding gradually down the 
main land, or coming directly across from the northeast- 
ern shores of Asia in canoes or ancient vessels similar to 
the Japanese and Chinese junks. 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATEE BAY. 205 

Other and more modern writers consider that these 
Indians came from the east of the Rocky Mountains, 
being forced away from the buffalo region by their more 
formidable neighbors. Of this latter class is General 
George Gibbs, who for many years has devoted himself 
to ethnological researches among the North American In- 
dians, and who for the past six years has resided in Ore- 
gon and Washington Territories, and whose opinion is 
entitled to consideration. General Gibbs, in a letter to 
me, dated Fort Steilacoom, Washington Territory, July 
31, 1856, writes : "In reading Longfellow's Hiawatha, 
that much-abused, praised, laughed at, and admired 
poem, I find some startling resemblances to the Nis- 
qually and Klikatat tales, so much so as to confirm the 
belief I already entertained of all these tribes having 
originated east of the Rocky Mountains, in the bufialo 
country, and emigrated by the northern passes to the 
great Western basin, and thence down Frazer's River and 
the Columbia to their present homes, forced away by 
more powerful neighbors." 

That General Gibbs's theory is correct, so far as re- 
lates to the tribes of Oregon and Washington, I can not 
dispute, having no evidence to the contrary. One thing 
is certain, that all the tribes are a wandering, restless 
race, and are as likely to have come from the east of the 
Rocky Mountains as any where else. There is, how- 
ever, no disputing the fact that they have occasionally 
received additions from the Asiatic side, although to what 
extent is not known. The prevailing northwest trade- 
wind of the summer season renders it very easy for ca- 
noes to come over from the northeast Russian coast; 
and in evidence of that fact, I can state that, during my 
residence in the Territory, a canoe, with three sailors in 
her, who ran away from a vessel at Kodiak, arrived safe 
at Shoal-water Bay, after coming a distance of nearly 
eight hundred miles. 



206 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

There is also a tradition among the Indians that a 
Chinese or Japanese junk was wrecked years ago on 
Clatsop Beach, south of the Columbia. Part of her car- 
go was bees'- wax. And, to prove the correctness of this 
tradition, there are to this day occasionally, after great 
storms, lumps and pieces of this wax found on the beach. 
There are no wild honey-bees west of the Rocky Mount- 
ains, consequently the wax was not the product of that 
part of the cont-inent, but must have been brought as the 
Indians state. I have had some of this wax given me 
by an old Indian doctor, who had picked it up on the 
beach. The crevices were still full of sand, and the ac- 
tion of salt water and sun had bleached it nearly white. 
The specimen was sent by me to the California Acad- 
emy of Natural Sciences. Wilkes also mentions the 
fact of a Chinese junk having been wrecked at Point 
Grenville in 1833, and three of the Japanese were res- 
cued from the Indians by the Hudson Bay Company. 

These instances simply prove that communication be- 
tween the two shores of the North Pacific could be, and 
has been made, but show nothing farther. My own be- 
lief is that, whatever was the origin of different tribes or 
families, the whole race of American Indians are native 
and indigenous to the soil. There is no proof that they 
are either the lost tribes of Israel or emigrants from any 
part of the Old World. They are a separate and as dis- 
tinct a race as either the Ethiopian, Caucasian, or Mon- 
golian ; and because they are not particularly described 
in the Mosaic account of the creation is no more an ev- 
idence that they are not as ancient a race as the Jews, 
than it is that the American continent was not formed 
at the same time the Garden of Eden was, simply be- 
cause Moses did not know about it. 

In the absence of all proof to the contrary, it seems to 
me to be both rational and consistent to assume that the 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 207 

Creator placed the Red race on the American continent 
as early as he created the beasts and reptiles that inhabit* 
it. In Nott and Gliddon's Types of Mankind, chapter 
ix., on the Aboriginal Races of America, may be found 
the following extracts, illustrative of the position taken 
of the Red man of America having originated on this 
continent instead of having migrated. 

"The continent of America is often designated by the 
appellation of the New World ; but the researches of 
modern geologists and archaeologists have shown that 
the evidences in favor of a high antiquity, during our 
geological epoch, as well as for fauna and flora, are, to 
say the least, quite as great on this as on the Eastern 
hemisphere. Professor Agassiz, whose authority will 
hardly be questioned in matters of this kind, tells us that 
geology finds the oldest landmarks here ; and Sir Charles 
Lyell, from a mass of well-digested facts, and from the 
corroborating testimony of other good authorities, con- 
cludes that the Mississippi River has been running in its 
present bed for more than one hundred thousand years. 

"Dr.Dowler, of New-Orleans, supplies some extraor- 
dinary facts in confirmation of the great age of the Del- 
ta of the Mississippi, assumed by Lyell, Carpenter, For- 
shey, and others. From an investigation of the success- 
ive growths of cypress forests around that city, the 
stumps of which are still found at different depths di- 
rectly overlying each other ; from the great size and age 
of these trees, and from the remains of Indian bones and 
pottery found below the roots of some of these stumps, 
he arrives at the following conclusion : ' From these data 
it appears that the human race existed in the Delta more 
than 57,000 years ago, and that ten subterranean for- 
ests, and the one now growing, wiU show that an exu- 
berant flora existed in Louisiana more than 100,000 years 
anterior to these evidences of man's existence.' 



208 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

" These authorities in support of the extreme age of 
the geological era to which man belongs, though start- 
ling to the unscientific, are not simply the opinions of 
the feW) but such conclusions are substantially adopted 
by the leading geologists every where ;• and though an- 
tiquity so extreme for man's existence on earth may 
shock some preconceived opinions, it is none the less cer- 
tain that the rapid accumulation of new facts is fast fa- 
miliarizing the minds of the scientific world to this con- 
viction. 

" The monuments of Egypt have already carried us 
far beyond all chronologies heretofore adopted ; and when 
these barriers are once overleaped, it is in vain for us to 
attempt to approximate even to the epoch of man's cre- 
ation. 

" Now the question naturally springs up whether the 
aborigines of America were not contemporary with the 
earliest races known to us of the Eastern Continent. 

"If, as is conceded, Caucasian, Negro, Mongol, and 
other races existed in the Old World already distinct, 
what reason can be assigned to show that the aborigines 
of America did not also exist 5000 years ago ? The 
naturalist must infer that the fauna and flora of the two 
continents were contemporary. All facts, all analogy 
war against the supposition that America should have 
been left by the Creator a dreary waste for thousands 
of years, while the other half of the world was teeming 
with organized beings. This view is also strengthened 
by the acknowledged fact that not a single animal, bird, 
reptile, fish, or plant was common to the Old and New 
Worlds. No naturalist of our day doubts that the ani- 
mal and vegetable kingdoms of America were created 
where they are found, and not in Asia. 

" The races of men alone have been made an excep- 
tion to this general law ; but this exception can not be 
maintained by any course of scientific reasoning. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 209 

" America, it will be remembered, was not only un- 
known to the early Greeks and Romans, but to the 
Egyptians ; and when discovered, less than four centu- 
ries ago, it was found to be inhabited from the Arctic 
to Cape Horn, and from ocean to ocean, by a popula- 
tion displaying peculiar physical traits, unlike any races 
in the Old World, speaking languages bearing no resem- 
blance in structure to other languages, and living every 
where among animals and plants specifically distinct 
from those of Europe, Asia, Africa, and Oceanica. 

"Morton and Agassiz assume that all mankind did 
not spring from one pair, or even each race from distinct 
pairs, but that men were created in nations in the differ- 
ent zoological provinces where history first finds them. 
Niebuhr also expresses the same views in one of his let- 
ters. (See Bunsen, Life and Letters of B. S. Niebuhr. 
New York, ed. 1852.) He writes : ' I believe, further, 
that the origin of the human race is not connected with 
any given place, but is to be sought every where over 
the face of the earth ; and that it is an idea more worthy 
of the power and wisdom of the Creator to assume that 
he gave to each zone and climate its proper inhabitants, 
to whom that climate and zone would be most suitable, 
than to assume that the human species has degenerated 
in such innumerable instances.'" 

The limits of this work, however, will not permit me 
to pursue this subject further ; but those who feel a cu- 
riosity and a desire to pursue the investigation, can find 
great assistance in the works quoted above. Future ex- 
plorers among the ruins of Central America may find 
among the hieroglyphic writings of the ancient inhabit- 
ants some record or some token which may aid to unveil 
what is to us now an unfathomable mystery. 

The only accounts we have of the tribes around the 
mouth of the Columbia are those of Ross Cox, who does 



210 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

not appear to have devoted much time to the investiga- 
tion cf the subject, but treats it in rather a flippant style, 
and Lewis and Clarke's account. This last is the one 
usually quoted, but is most singularly incorrect. Lewis 
and Clarke, however, have the good sense to state that 
the short time they remained at the mouth of the Colum- 
bia did not enable them to obtain any very reliable facts 
or information. They write, "A particular detail of the 
character, manners, and habits of the tribes must be left 
to some future adventurer, who may have more leisure 
and a better opportunity than we had to accomplish this 
object. Those who first visit the ground can only be 
expected to furnish sketches rude and imperfect." 

In May, 1855, General Gibbs, who was connected with 
Governor Stevens's commission for treating with the In- 
dians of Washington Territory, wrote me for the purpose 
of ascertaining the names of the Coast tribes, and, after 
quoting Lewis and Clarke's account, adds, "If you can 
puzzle out these names with the assistance of the In- 
dians, I shall be very glad." 

The list, as made out by Lewis and Clarke, are the 
Chenooks, Chilts, Killaxthokle, Clamoitomish, Poto- 
ashees, Pailsk, Quinults, Chelates, Calasthorle, Quin- 
neTihaut. ^ -^ ~" 

The names given me by the Indians, and by which 
the tribes from the Columbia to Fuca Strait are known, 
are, 

Chenooks, on the Columbia. 

Kar-wee^wee, or Arts^milsh, the name of the Shoal- 
water Bay tribes, which are now nearly extinct, and are 
usually considered as Chenooks. 

Che-ha^lis, on Gray's Harbor and Chehalis River. 

Co-pa^lis, on the Copalis Eiver, eighteen miles north 
of Gray's Harbor. 

Que^ni-ult, at Point Grenville. 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAT. 211 

This name is incorrectly spelled by General Gibbs as 
Quinaiutl. The Indians pronounce the word as if 
spelled Quefni-ult^ accenting the first syllable strongly, 
and pronouncing the last so soft that many persons con- 
sider they call themselves simply Quefnai, The ending 
tl does not appear at all in the manner the Indians pro- 
nounce the word. Next north of the Queniult tribe are 
the Quai^tso, then the Hooch or Hooh, Que-lai''ult, and 
Que-nait^sath. 

It is a custom among these tribes to name families 
and villages from the river they may be located on. In 
this way it is probable Lewis and Clarke may have mis- 
taken the names of some of the tribes which they have 
mentioi^ied. The Indians of Shoal-water Bay had no 
distinct language of their own, but used the Chenook or 
Chehalis promiscuously, with the exception of the tribe 
on the Whil^a-pah River, who spoke a language some- 
what resembling the Cowlitz. There are two or three 
of the Whil^a-pah Indians stiU living at Shoal-water 
Bay, but the rest of their tribe is all extinct. The oth- 
er names of the Shoal-water Bay Indians were the Ne- 
coman^chee or Nick^omin, who resided on a river of that 
name flowing into the north side of the Bay. 

The Que-lap^ton-lilt, whose village was at the mouth 
of the Whil^a-pah River, on the banks of a creek whose 
name they took, and where at present the house and 
claim of Captain Charles Stewart are. 

The Whar^hoots village occupied the present site of 
the town of Bruceport, and the Quer^quelin village at 
the mouth of the creek where my house was. 

The Palux Indians, on the Copa^lux or Palux River, 
the Mar^hoo, the Nasal, and severa^ other villages on 
the peninsula of little account. 

The relics of old lodges, canoes, heaps of shells, and 
other remains, give evidence that at some period there 



212 . THE NOETHWEST COAST; OE, 

must have been a large body of Indians around Shoal- 
water Bay. These deserted villages are to be met with 
all over the coast portion of the Territory, and have at- 
tracted the attention of the early discoverers. Vancou- 
ver, alluding to this fact, attributes it either to the wan- 
dering disposition of the natives or to sickness, but 
adds " that it is impossible to draw any just conclu- 
sions of the true cause of this havoc among the human 
race, and it may not be improbable to conjecture that 
the depopulation may have arisen in some measure from 
the disposition of the Indians to move from place to 
place for the purpose of trade." 

My opinion about the cause of these deserted villages 
is this. It is the universal custom with these Indians 
never to live in a lodge where a person has died. If a 
person of importance dies, the lodge is usually burned 
down, or taken down and removed to some other part of 
the Bay ; and it can readily be seen that in the case of 
the Palux Indians, who had been attacked by the Che- 
halis people, as before stated, their relatives chose at 
once to leave for some other place. This objection to 
living in a lodge where a person has died is the rea- 
son why their sick slaves are invariably carried out into 
the woods, where they remain either to recover or die. 
There is, however, no disputing the fact that an immense 
mortality has occurred among these people, and they are 
now reduced to a mere handful. The tribes of the in- 
terior, whether originally more numerous than the Coast 
tribes, are vastly superior in point of numbers, and are 
the ones who have been engaged in the late hostili- 
ties. 

The great superstitious dread these Indians have for 
a dead person, and their horror of touching a corpse, 
oftentimes gives rise to difficulty as to who shall perform 
the funeral ceremonies ; for any person who handles a 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 213 

dead body must not eat of salmon or sturgeon for thirty- 
days. Sometimes, in cases of small-pox, I have known 
them leave the corpse in the lodge, and all remove else- 
where ; and in two instances that came to my knowl- 
edge, the whites had to burn the lodges, with the bodies 
in them, to prevent infection. 

So, in the instances I have before mentioned, where 
we had buried Indians, not one of their friends or rela- 
tives could be seen. All kept in their lodges, singing 
and drumming to keep away the spirits of the dead. 

Meares, writing of the Nootka Indians, June, 1788, 
allowed himself to be so far imposed upon as to assert 
that the Nootkans were cannibals, and states that a chief 
named Callicum " reposed his head every night on a bag 
filled with human skulls ;" and that the two chiefs, Ma- 
quilla and Callicum, regularly killed a slave once a 
month ; nor did they hesitate to confess that they had 
eaten human flesh, and to express their delight in ban- 
queting on their fellow-creatures. Vancouver, however, 
in alluding to Meares's statements, entirely discredits 
any such tale, and states that "in May, 1792, while in 
Admiralty Inlet, he offered some venison pie to the na- 
tives, who, conceiving it to be human flesh, threw it from 
them with the greatest aversion and displeasure ; and it 
was only by showing the rest of a haunch that remained 
in the boat that they were undeceived, and were willing 
to eat of the pie."* 

Then, referring to Meares's statements, he remarks, 

" Were such barbarities practiced once a month as 

stated, it is but natural to suppose that these natives 

would not have shown the least aversion to eating flesh 

* It is very possible that the aversion of the Indians to Vancouver's 
venison pie arose partly from the pepper or other condiments contained 
in it ; for an Indian can not bear the least particle of pepper or mustard 
in his mouth, and it is pretty certain that the old navigator would prob- 
ably have his game pie well seasoned. 



214 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

of any kind ; but, on the contrary, it is not possible to 
conceive a greater degree of abhorrence than was mani- 
fested by these people, till their minds were made easy 
that it was not human flesh they were eating." 

The Indians have a great aversion to seeing a skull, 
and a great dread of having one in the house ; and it 
can not be possible that one among them could be found 
with the hardihood to sleep nightly on a bag filled with 
skulls. 

One of their superstitions relating to skulls is that, if 
a lodge near the waters of the Bay contains one, the wa- 
ter will gradually wash away the bank till it reaches the 
skull, which is then carried oiF by the waves. I witness- 
ed a singular incident relative to this superstition. Dr. 
Cooper, who had been connected with Governor Ste- 
vens's expedition across the Rocky Mountains, and who 
was residing at Shoal- water Bay with Mr. Russell, mak- 
ing collections of natural curiosities, had collected sev- 
eral specimens of skulls, which were placed in a box un- 
der Russell's house. The Indians predicted that the 
house would be washed away, and, sure enough, the en- 
suing winter the tide came up so high that it nearly cap- 
sized Russell's house, and confirmed the Indians in the 
belief of the correctness of their predictions. 

From what I have seen of the great and very univer- 
sal superstitious dread they have of a dead body, I can 
not believe they ever could have been cannibals, although 
the early accounts of their ferocity might give some 
ground to believe such an assertion. Still, those early 
records of voyages do not always convey the whole 
truth ; and while we are led to believe the Indians were 
at all times of a hostile disposition, we are carefully kept 
in the dark as to whether imprudence or ignorance on 
the part of the whites did not occasion all the ill feeling. 
One thing is certain : these Indians at the present time 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 215 

have lost a great deal of that alleged fierceness, and I 
have always found them, when treated well, to be kind 
and hospitable. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Trip to San Erancisco. — Captain Smith and his Goggles. — We get near- 
ly wrecked by reason of the Fog on Captain Smith's " Specks." — Ar- 
rive safe at last. — Return to the Columbia in Steamer Peytona. — 
Port Orford. — Captain Tichenor. — Cedar of Port Orford. — Mouth of 
the Columbia. — Not so terrible as generally represented. — Arrival at 
Astoria. — History of Astoria. — Captain Smith, of the Ship Albatross. 
— John Jacob Astor. — Ship Tonquin, Captain Thorne. — Ship Beaver, 
Captain Sowles. — Ross Cox's Description of Astoria. — Loss of the 
Tonquin. — Ship Lark. — Astoria sold to the Northwest Company. — 
The Raccoon Sloop-of-war. — Brig Peddler. — Ship Isaac Todd and her 
Passengers. — First white Woman. — Death of Mr. M'Tavish. — Resto- 
ration of Astoria to the Americans. — H. B. M. Frigate Blossom sa- 
lutes the Flag. — Various Expeditions, &c. — First Emigration. — Jes- 
uits. — ^Present Appearance of Astoria. — Military Road, &c. 

As it was impossible to collect oysters during the win- 
ter season, I concluded to go to San Francisco for a few 
months, and, taking passage in the schooner Maryland, 
then ready to sail, we left our anchorage on the first day 
of January, 1854, and, with a fair wind from. the north- 
east, put out to sea. The captain of the schooner, whose 
name was Smith, was a regular trading, swapping, Down- 
East Yankee, a very good navigator when he had plenty 
of sea-room, but in close work or running by land-marks 
he was at fault. The cause of this was partly owing to 
the fact of his eyesight being dim, and rendered still dim- 
mer by wearing green goggles, which, when covered, as 
they often were, with fog, almost totally extinguished 
Captain Smith's powers of sight. 

We ran down the coast with a fair wind and fine 
weather till we had passed Cape Mendocino, the wind 



216 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 



^ 



having hauled in the mean time into the west. The 
weather now began to grow thick and foggy, but, as Cap- 
tain Smith had what he called a fair start, we drove 
ahead with all sail set, sure of running into San Fran- 
cisco before dark. 

There is an indentation in the coast a few miles north 
of the entrance to San Francisco, called False San Fran- 
cisco, where several vessels and steamers have been lost. 
In foggy weather this opening is mistaken for the true 
entrance to the harbor, which gives rise to the acci- 
dents. 

Into this place we were driving right before the wind, 
although the captain was assured we were going into the 
wrong place. At length the watch forward assured the 
captain we were going ashore, but he knew better. Fi- 
nally he acknowledged that the fog had settled on his 
spectacles so that objects had quite a vague and indis- 
tinct appearance to him, and he requested me to take a 
look, which I did, and assured him we were going head 
on to a reef not more than half a dozen lengths of the 
- schooner ahead. The helm was put down, and the ves- 
sel put sharp on the wind, which had now lulled down 
almost to a calm, but there was a heavy rolling sea that 
set us in toward the shore. I saw we were nearing a 
point, and if we kept on that tack would go ashore, as 
every sea threw us bodily to leeward. Finally the cap- 
tain ordered the schooner to be put on the other tack. 
She had just headway enough to come about, although 
it was with the merest accident that the jib filled on the 
other tack ; but she did get round, and as we gathered 
way, I could have tossed a biscuit on the reef astern, 
and had she missed stays we would have been inevi- 
tably dashed to atoms, for in ten minutes afterward the 
wind came out of the southwest and blew a gale. How- 
ever, we made one tack inside the Farallones, and stood 



THREE YEARS AT SHQAL-WATER BAY. 219 

in by Point Bonita, and ran into the harbor of San Fran- 
cisco safe and sound. 

I remained in San Francisco a few months, and on 
the last of May again started up the coast in the steam- 
er Peytona, Captain Sampson. We stopped at Crescent 
City, Trinidad, and Port Orford, where the celebrated 
Captain Tichenor, formerly of the steamer Sea-Gull, had 
landed a party some fourteen months previous, while he 
proceeded on his voyage to the Columbia. On his re- 
turn, Captain Tichenor found that his party had fought 
a severe conflict on a cliff called Battle Rock, from whence 
they had been driven by the Indians. Tichenor took 
on board a small six-pounder which he had left, and 
proceeded to San Francisco, where he obtained another 
party, and effected a lodgment, and finally settled the 
present flourishing town of Port Orford. The first party 
had made their way through the forest and wilderness to 
some of the towns in Oregon, where they published a 
statement of theu' toils and privations. 

The settlement of Port Orford was attended with as 
much, if not more difficulty with the Indians of that sec- 
tion than any other settlement on the coast. There is 
' a variety of cedar found at Port Orford, as white as white 
pine, and of a peculiar fragrant smell, almost equal to 
sandal-wood. Messrs. Neefus and Tichenor, of San 
Francisco, have a saw-mill there for the purpose of cut- 
ting this cedar into boards, which are then sent to San 
Francisco, where they meet with a ready sale at high 
prices. Even the saw-dust from this cedar is in de- 
mand, and is used to strew the floors of saloons and gro- 
cery stores in San Francisco, where it is prized for its 
perfume. 

A pleasant run of three days brought us to the mouth 
of the Columbia, where, having obtained a pilot, we 
crossed the bar, and found the water as smooth as a mill- 



220 THE NOETHtV^EST COAST; OE, 

pond, where, from all accounts, I had expected to have 
seen the most fearful breakers. The Columbia Eiver is 
not such an awful place for mariners as many writers 
would make it appear. The terrors of its bar are a good, 
deal like the terrors of a Cape Horn passage, which, till 
it was found to the contrary, was considered one of the 
most appalling voyages a mariner could make. 

The early navigators to the Northwest Coast were 
looked upon when they returned as great curiosities, and 
any fables they might relate were eagerly swallowed by 
the gaping crowd. So, to prevent others from attempt- 
ing to interfere with their trade, and also to magnify the 
dangers themselves had passed, those ancient mariners 
were wont to tell of tales that, if true, were enough to 
deter the stoutest-hearted from going the dread voyage 
around Cape Horn, and over the horrid breakers at the 
Columbia's mouth. 

But when the gold discoveries of California induced 
men to send to sea old rotten hulks, that were ready to 
be condemned at New York or Boston, and when it was 
seen that those old vessels all doubled the Cape in safe- 
ty, people found that the actual danger had been greatly 
exaggerated. 

And so with the Columbia ; when people began to get 
acquainted with the navigation, they no longer feared. 
There are many captains who have always been accus- 
tomed to sail to and from ports where there was no bar 
or dangerous breakers, and such would always cry out 
about the dangers of the Columbia ; but I have never 
seen a man accustomed to the coasting-trade of the At- 
lantic who considered the entrance to the Columbia any 
more dangerous, if as much so, as some of the harbors 
on the Atlantic. 

I do not mean to be understood as stating that there 
are no dangers on the Columbia bar. On the contrary, 



THREE TEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 223 

there are times when there is a very heavy sea breaking 
there ; but I mean that the real danger is not so great 
as has been represented. 

It was about sundown when we arrived off the wharf 
where the steamer was to stop to send such passengers 
ashore as intended stopping, and, with two or three oth- 
ers, I clambered into the boat, and in a few minutes was 
landed on the shores of the town of Astoria. 

The account of the settlement of Astoria given by 
Greenhow being the most concise, I shall quote from 
that work, and give a short history of that famous little 
town, which is familiarly known by name to almost ev- 
ery one in the United States, and certainly deserves to 
be a much larger settlement than it is at present. It is 
most admirably located for business, being directly at 
the mouth of the largest river running into the Pacific, 
and is sure, when the country increases in population, 
and consequently in trade, to be a place of great import- 
ance to the Territory of Oregon. 

During the year 1810, Captain Smith, commander of 
the ship Albatross, attempted to found a post for trade 
with the Indians at a place called Oak Point, on the 
south bank of the Columbia, about forty miles from its 
mouth. For this purpose a house was built, and a gar- 
den laid out and planted there ; but the site was badly 
chosen in aU respects, and the scheme was abandoned 
before the close of the year. 

In the same year an association was formed at New 
York for the prosecution of the fur trade in the central 
and northwestern parts of the continent in connection 
with the China trade. This association was called the 
Pacific Fur Comjpany, and at its head was John Jacob 
Astor, a German merchant of New York, who had been 
for many years extensively engaged in the commerce of 
the Pacific and China. 



224 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

• His object was to concentrate in the hands of the 
company the fur trade of every part of the unsettled ter- 
ritory of America claimed by the United States. 

Posts were to be established on the Missouri, the 
Columbia, and the coasts of the Pacific contiguous to 
the latter river. For the purposes of this expedition, 
one party was to proceed across the land, while another 
detachment was to proceed by sea around Cape Horn. 
Mr. Astor had already, in 1809, dispatched the ship En- 
terprise, under Captain Ebbetts, to make observations at 
various places on the Northwest Coasts of America, and 
to prepare the way for the new establishments. 

The preparations for commencing the enterprise hav- 
ing been completed, four of the partners, M'Kay, M'Dou- 
gal, David Stuart, Eobert Stuart, with eleven clerks, 
thirteen Canadian voyageurs^ and five mechanics, all 
British subjects, took their departure from New York 
for the mouth of the Columbia River in September, 1810, 
in the ship Tonquin, commanded by Captain Jonathan 
Thorne. In January following, the second detachment, 
commanded by Mr. Hunt, the chief agent, and Messrs. 
M'Lellan, M'Kenzie, and Crooks, set out for the same 
point by way of the Missouri Biver ; and in October, 
1811, the ship Beaver, under Captain Sowles, carried 
out from New York to the North Pacific Mr. Clark, with 
six clerks and a number of other persons. 

On the 24th of March the Tonquin arrived at the 
Columbia, which she entered with difficulty, after losing 
three of her men, whom Captain Thorne foolishly sent 
out in a boat to sound the channel. The ship came to 
anchor in Baker's Bay, just within Cape Disappoint- 
ment, where the passengers were landed, and sheds were 
built for their temporary accommodation. A few days 
afterward the partners set ofi*in search of a place suitable 
for the establishment of a factory, and they soon selected 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 225 

for that object a spot on the south bank of the river, 
distant about ten miles from the ocean, which had re- 
ceived from Broughton, in 1792, the name of Point 
George. 

To this place the Tonquin was removed, and having 
landed her passengers and such part of the cargo as was 
intended for the establishment, sailed on the 5th of June 
for the Northern Coast, taking Mr. M'Kaj, who was to 
conduct the trade, Mr. Lewis, one of the clerks, and an 
Indian as an interpreter. 

During the ensuing summer much progress was made 
in the building of the factory, which, in honor of its 
founder, was named Astoria. 

On the 5th of May, 1812, the ship Beaver, command- 
ed by Captain Sowles, arrived in the Columbia from 
New York, bringing a third detachment of persons in 
the service of the Pacific Company, under the direction 
of ^Mr. Clarke, and twenty-six natives of the Sandwich 
Islands. Hoss Cox, who arrived in the Beaver, gives 
the following account of Astoria as it then appeared : 

" The spot selected for the fort (Astoria) was a hand- 
some eminence, called Point George, which commanded 
an extensive view of the majestic Columbia in front, 
bounded by the bold and thickly-wooded northern shore. 

" On the right, about three miles distant, a long, high, 
and rocky peninsula, covered with timber, called Tongue 
Point, extended a considerable distance into the river 
from the southern side, with which it was connected by 
a narrow neck of land, while on the extreme left. Cape 
Disappointment, with the bar and its terrific chain of 
breakers, were distinctly visible. The buildings consist- 
ed of apartments for the proprietors and clerks, with a 
capacious dining-hall for both ; extensive warehouses for 
the trading goods and furs, a provision store, a trading- 
shop, smith's forge, carpenter's shop, &c., the whole sur- 

K2 



226 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

rounded by stockades, forming a square, and reaching 
about fifteen feet above the ground. A gallery ran 
around the stockades, in which loop-holes were placed 
sufficiently large for musketry. Two strong bastions, 
built of logs, commanded the four sides of the square ; 
each bastion had two stories, in which a number of 
chosen men slept every night ; a six-pounder was placed 
in the lower story of each, and they were both well pro- 
vided with small-arms. Immediately in firont of the fort 
was a gentle declivity, sloping down to the river's side, 
which had been turned into an excellent kitchen garden ; 
and a few hundred rods to the left, a tolerable wharf had 
been run out, by which boats and batteaux were enabled 
to land their cargoes at low water without sustaining any 
damage. 

"An impenetrable forest of gigantic pines rose in the 
rear, and the ground was covered with a thick under- 
wood of brier and whortleberry, intermingled with fern 
and honeysuckle." 

The Beaver also brought a letter from Owyhee that 
had been left there by Captain Ebbetts, of the ship En- 
terprise, containing positive information of the destruc- 
tion of the Tonquin and her crew by the savages on the 
Coast, near the Straits of Fuca. The particulars of this 
melancholy affair were afterward brought by the Indian 
who had gone in the Tonquin as interpreter, and who 
was the only survivor of those who had gone in the ill- 
fated ship. 

The Tonquin, it appears, anchored in the middle of 
June, 1811, opposite a village on the Bay of Clyoquot, 
near the Straits of Fuca. Captain Thorne, who is rep- 
resented to have been totally unfitted to trade with the 
Indians, had given a mortal afiront to one of the chiefs 
by slapping him in the face with an otter-skin he was 
offering for sale. The Indians seized the opportunity 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAT. 227 

when the men were busily engaged about their duties on 
board the ship to get possession of her, and put to death 
every one of the crew and passengers except the inter- 
preter, the clerk, Mr. Lewis, and five or six sailors. The 
interpreter was saved by leaping into a canoe where 
there were some women, who concealed him. Four of 
the men managed to leave in the boat during the night, 
but were taken by the savages, and murdered in the 
most cruel manner. The following day, while the ship 
was crowded with Indians, she was blown up by Mr. 
Lewis, as was supposed, killing by the explosion a great 
number of the savages. 

The loss of the Tonquin was a severe blow to the Pa- 
cific Company ; and it was determined that Mr. Hunt 
should embark in the Beaver, and proceed north to trade 
and visit the K-ussian establishments, as Mr. M'Kay 
would have done but for the destruction of the Tonquin. 
He accordingly sailed in the Beaver in August, 1812, 
leaving the superintendence of the factory in the hands 
of Mr. M'Dougal. 

It was not till January, 1813, that they learned of 
the war between the United States and Great Britain ; 
and the gloom caused by this information was increased 
by the report that the Beaver was lying in Canton block- 
aded by a British ship of war. And soon affcer^ Messrs. 
M'Tavish and Laroque, partners in the Northwest Com- 
pany, arrived near Astoria, bringing accounts of the suc- 
cess of the British arms on the northern frontiers of the 
United States. 

With these facts before them, it was decided by 
M'Dougal and M'Kenzie that the company should be 
dissolved on the first of July. 

From the United States no assistance came. The 
ship Lark was dispatched from New York in March, 
1813, with men and goods for the Columbia, but she was 



228 THE KOETHWEST COAST; OE, 

wrecked the October following near one of the Sandwich 
Islands. 

The American government also had determined, in 
consequence of the representations of Mr. Astor, to send 
the sloop-of-war John Adams for the protection of the 
infant colony ; but, just as the vessel was about to sail 
from New York, it became necessary to transfer her crew 
to Lake Ontario. 

In the mean time, Mr. Hunt, who had sailed from the 
Columbia in the Beaver, as already mentioned, had pro- 
ceeded to the Russian settlements at the North, where 
he had procured a large quantity of furs, and then had 
proceeded direct to the Sandwich Islands instead of re- 
turning to the Columbia, and, having directed Captain 
Sowles to proceed to Canton, chartered the ship Alba- 
tross, of Boston, which had just arrived at Woahoo from 
Canton, and proceeded in her to the Columbia, where he 
arrived on the fourth of August ; but, finding the condi- 
tion of affairs, he immediately sailed in the Albatross for 
the Sandwich Islands in search of some vessel to take 
off the property of the Pacific Company from the Colum- 
bia. On his arrival he chartered a small brig, called the 
Peddler, and sailed in her for Astoria, where he arrived in 
February, 1814 ; but before the Peddler arrived the fate 
of Astoria had been decided. 

A few days after Hunt had sailed in the Albatross, 
Mr. M'Tavish and his followers of the Northwest Com- 
pany again appeared at Astoria, and gave information 
that a ship, called the Isaac Todd, had sailed from Lon- 
don with a full cargo for the Columbia, and was daily 
expected under convoy of a British squadron, who had 
orders to take and destroy every thing American on the 
Northwest Coast, M'Dougal and M'Kenzie then con- 
cluded to sell out the whole establishment to the North- 
west Company, and an agreement was made on October 



THREE TEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 229 

16th, 1813, between M'Tavish ^nd Stuart on one part, 
and M'Dougal, M'Kenzie, and Clarke on the other, for 
the conveyance of the property, which was signed and 
conveyed that day for the sum of about fifty-eight thou- 
sand dollars. 

Just after this transfer had been made, the sloop-of- 
war Raccoon, commanded by Captain Black, arrived in 
the river, having been sent there by Commodore Hill- 
yer from the South Pacific to take possession of all the 
American forts and property on the Columbia. 

Captain Black was intensely disgusted at finding the 
state of afi'airs, and had to content himself by hauling 
down the American colors and hoisting the English col- 
ors instead, and then, with all solemnity and proper for- 
mality, changed the name of the establishment to Fort 
George, 

The brig Peddler arrived at the Columbia, as before 
said, on the 28th of February, 1814, and Mr. Hunt found 
M'Dougal superintending the factory, not as chief agent 
of the Pacific Company, but as partner of the Northwest 
Company, into which he had been admitted. Hunt had, 
therefore, merely to close the concerns of the American 
Association in that quarter, and take bills on Montreal 
given in payment for its efi'ects, after which he embarked 
in the Peddler with two of the clerks, and proceeded, by 
way of Canton and the Cape of Good Hope, to New 
York. Such was the termination of the Astoria enter- 
prise. 

f The Isaac Todd reached Fort George on the 17th of 
April, 1814, thirteen months after her departure from 
England, bringing a large stock of supplies, by the aid 
of which the partners of the Northwest Company were 
enabled to establish themselves more firmly in the coun- 
try. 

The Isaac Todd Ibronght out as passengers John 



230 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

M'Tavish and John M*Donald, proprietors ; Alexander 
and James M'Tavish, Alexander Frazer and Alexander 
M'Kenzie, clerks, with Dr. Swan, a medical gentleman, 
engaged as a resident physician at the fort. 

"She also brought out," says Eoss Cox, "the first 
white woman who ever entered the Columbia Eiver, Miss 
Jane Barnes, a flaxen-haired, blue-eyed daughter of Al- 
bion, who, in a fit of erratic enthusiasm, had consented 
to accompany one of the Macs as corrvpagnon du voyage. 
She was very fond of displaying herself to the savages 
arrayed in all the latest English styles of fashion, and 
had attracted the admiration of a son of Comcomly, the 
principal chief of the Chenooks, who fell in love with her 
and wanted to marry her. He ofiered to give her friends 
one hundred sea-otter skins, which was a very high 
price ; but Miss Jane could not forget her old ideas and 
predilections respecting mankind, among which she did 
not include a flat head, a half-naked body, or a copper- 
colored skin besmeared with whale oil." 

"Early in June, 1813," writes Cox, "Mr. Donald 
M*Tavish, one of the oldest and earliest proprietors of 
the Northwest Fur Company, was drowned while at- 
tempting to cross the Columbia in a boat. His remains, 
with those of four men who were drowned at the same 
time, were interred behind the northeast bastion of Fort 
George." 

The capture of Astoria by the British, and the trans- 
fer of the Pacific Company's establishments on the Co- 
lumbia to the Northwest Company, were not known to 
the plenipotentiaries of the United States at Ghent on 
the 24th of December, 1814, when they signed the treaty 
of peace between their country and Great Britain. 

It was nevertheless agreed, in the first article of the 
treaty of Ghent, that '^ all territory, places, and posses- 
sions whatsoever, taken by either party during the war. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 231 

or which may he taken after the signing of this treaty, 
excepting only the islands hereinafter mentioned (in the 
Bay of Fundj), shall he restored without delay.'''' 

In virtue of this article, Mr. Monroe, then Secretary 
of State of the United States, on the 18th of May, 1815, 
announced to Mr. Baker, the charge d'affaires of Great 
Britain at Washington, that the President intended im- 
mediately to reoccupy the post at the mouth of the Co- 
lumbia ; but no measures were adopted for the purpose 
till September, 1817, when Captain J. Biddle, command- 
ing the sloop-of-war Ontario, and Mr. J. B. Prevost, were 
jointly commissioned to proceed in that ship to the 
mouth of the Columbia, and then to assert the claim of 
the United States to the sovereignty of the adjacent 
country in a friendly and peaceable manner, and with- 
out the employment of force. After a little demur on 
the part of the British government, Lord Castlereagh, 
the British Secretary for Foreign Affairs, finally, on the 
claim being urged by Mr. Rush, the American minister 
at London, admitted the right of the Americans to be re- 
instated, and it was finally agreed that the post should 
be restored to them ; and accordingly, orders were issued 
by Lord Bathurst, the British Colonial Secretary, to the 
agents of the Northwest Company at the mouth of the 
Columbia, directing them to afford due facilities for the 
reoccupation of the post by the Americans. An order 
was at the same time issued from the Admiralty to the 
same effect, to the commander of the British naval forces 
in the Pacific. 

The Ontario arrived at Valparaiso in February, 1818, 
where, Mr. Prevost having to transact some business for 
his government, it was agreed between the commission- 
ers that he should remain, while Captain Biddle should 
proceed to the Columbia in the Ontario, which he did, 
and on the 9th of August took temporary possession of 



232 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

the country on that river in the name of the United 
States, after which he returned to the South Pacific. 

In the mean time. Captain Sheriff, the senior officer of 
the British ships in the Pacific, having received instruc- 
tions from Commodore Bowles, the British naval com- 
mander of the forces in the South Seas, informed Mr. 
Prevost, and offered him a passage to the Columbia for 
the purpose of completing the business. He according- 
ly accepted the offer, and proceeded to the Columbia in 
the British frigate Blossom, where he arrived in the be- 
ginning of October, 1818. 

On the 6th of the month, Captain Hickey, command- 
er of the Blossom, and Mr. Keith, the superintending 
partner of the Northwest Company, as joint commission- 
ers on the part of Great Britain, exchanged with Mr. 
Prevost documents setting forth the facts of the restora- 
tion of the territory on the one part, and the acceptance 
of the settlement for his government on the other. The 
British flag was then formally lowered, and that of the 
United States, having been hoisted in its stead over the 
fort, was saluted by the Blossom. Thus was Fort As- 
toria once more under the American flag. But the Brit- 
ish traders continued to occupy the post, and carry on 
their operations the same as previous to the change of 
flags. 

A good deal of enmity had subsisted between the 
Northwest and Hudson's Bay Companies, which was 
only displayed in words, or in the commission of petty 
acts of injury or annoyance to each other till 1814, when 
a regular war broke out between them, and on the 19th 
of June, 1816, a battle was fought between the North- 
west people and some Scotch settlers on Eed River at a 
place called Ossijiobia, when the latter were routed, hav- 
ing seventeen of their number, including their governor, 
Mr. Semple, killed. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 233 

These troubles were brought before the British Par- 
liament in June, 1819, and, after a long debate, in which 
the merits of both companies were discussed, an act was 
passed effecting a union between the two rival compa- 
nies, and in 1824, the Northwest Company having sur- 
rendered its rights, and possessions, and interests to the 
Hudson's Bay Company, all the operations were thence- 
forward conducted in the name of that company alone. 

Great efforts were now made and vast expenses in- 
curred by this company to found settlements on the Co- 
lumbia Biver, and to acquire influence over the natives 
of the surrounding country ; and so successful were those 
efforts, that the citizens of the United States not only re- 
nounced all ideas of renewing their establishments in 
that part of America, but even withdrew their vessels 
from its coasts ; and for more than ten years after the 
capture of Astoria by the British, scarcely an American 
citizen was to be seen in those countries. Trading ex- 
peditions were indeed made from the Missouri to the 
head-waters of the Platte and Colorado, but the Ameri- 
cans had no settlement of any kind, and their govern- 
ment exercised no jurisdiction whatever west of the 
Eocky Mountains. 

The first attempt to re-establish commercial communi- 
cation between the United States and the territories 
west of the Bocky Mountains was made by General 
W. H. Ashley, of St. Louis, Missouri, in the spring of 
1823. His explorations and expeditions, however, were 
confined to Southern Oregon and California ; but, unfor- 
tunately, they made no astronomical observations ; and, 
being unacquainted with any branch of physical science, 
very little information has been derived through their 
means. 

In 1827,Mr.Pilcher went from Council Bluffs, on the 
Missouri, with forty-five men and more than one hund- 



234 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

red horses, and spent the winter on the Colorado. The 
following year he proceeded to Louis's River, and thence 
northward, along the foot of the Rocky Mountains, to 
the Flat Head Lake, near the 47th parallel of latitude. 
Here he remained till the spring of 1829, when he de- 
scended the Clarke River to Fort Colville, on the Colum- 
bia, and from thence he returned to the United States 
through the long and circuitous route of the Upper Co- 
lumbia, the Athabasca, the Assinaboin, Red River, and 
the Upper Missouri. 

In 1832, Captain Bonneville, of the army of the United 
States, while on a furlough, led a band of more than a 
hundred men, with twenty wagons, and many horses and 
mules carrying merchandise, from Missouri to the coun- 
tries of the Colorado and the Columbia, in which he 
passed more than two years, engaged in hunting, trap- 
ping, and trading. -About the same time (1832), Captain 

^^^^...^athaniel Wyeth, of Massachusetts, endeavored to es- 
tablish a system of commercial intercourse between the 
Union and the countries of the Columbia, to which the 
general name of Oregon now began to be universally 
applied by the Americans. Captain Wyeth's plan of 
operation was like that of Mr. Astor in 1810, which was 
to send manufactured goods to the Pacific countries by 
means of overland expeditions, and also by the way of 
Cape Horn, and to transport in exchange furs, and even 
salmon, which abound in all the waters of Northwest 
America, and to extend his trade to China. 

With these objects in view, he made two expeditions 
overland to the Columbia, in the latter of which he 
founded a trading-post, called Fort Hall, on the south 
side of the Snake River, or the Lewis branch of that 

■^ river, at the entrance of the Port Neuf, about a hundred 
miles north of the Utah Lake ; and he then established 
another post, principally for fishing purposes, on Wap- 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 235 

patoo Island, near the confluence of the Willamet Biver 
with the Columbia, a hundred miles above the mouth of 
the latter. 

Wyeth's plans, however, were not successful ; for the 
Hudson Bay Company agents, taking the alarm, founded 
a counter trading-post, called Fort Boise, at the entrance 
of the Boise, or Read's Eiver, into the Lewis, some dis- 
tance below Fort Hall, where they offered goods to the 
Indians at prices so much lower than the Americans 
could afibrd, that Wyeth was driven out of the market, 
and was forced to compromise with his opponents by 
selling his fort and engaging to desist from the fur trade. 

Meanwhile a brig, which he had dispatched from Bos- 
ton, arrived in the Columbia, and proceeded to Wappatoo 
Island, where, after making some further arrangements 
with the Hudson Bay Company, she returned to the 
United States, taking a cargo of salmon. But, the re- 
sult of the voyage not being very profitable, a further 
prosecution of the enterprise was abandoned. 

The prices of articles of trade were nominally high, as 
every thing was exchanged in barter for furs, there being 
no money among the hunters, trappers, or traders ; and 
in a price-current at a rendezvous on the Green Hiver 
in the summer of 1838, we find whisky at three dollars 
per pint, gunpowder at six dollars per pint, tobacco at 
&VG dollars per pound, dogs (for food) at fifteen^ollars 
each, &c. 

About the time of Wyeth's expedition also took place 
the earliest emigration to the territories of the Columbia 
for the purpose of settlement, without any commercial 
objects. ^ The first of these colonies were founded in 
1834, in the valley of the Willamet Eiver, in which a 
few retired servants of the Hudson Bay Company had 
established themselves by permission of that body, and 
were engaged in herding cattle. " The Americans," says 



236 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

Greenhow, " who first settled there, were mostly Method- 
ists, under direction of ministers of their own sect ; and 
colonies of Presbyterians or Congregationalists were aft- 
erward planted in the Walla Walla and Spokan coun- 
tries. 

" In these places schools for the education o0he na- 
tives were opened, and in 1839 a printing-press^'was first 
set up at Walla Walla, on which were struck off the first 

-sheets ever printed on the Pacific side of America, north 

of Mexico." The Jesuits of St. Louis then engaged in 
the labor of converting the Indians, in which they ap- 
pear, according to their own accounts, to have met with 
extraordinary success; but, if the following extracts from 
De Sinefs Letters (published at Philadelphia in 1843, 
and which I copy from Greenhow, page 361) are any ev- 
idence, certainly that evidence is very poor. The quo- 
tation states "that the Jesuits, De Smet, Mengarini, 
Point, and others, have, since 1840, made several mis- 
sionary tours through the Indian countries, in the course 
of which they baptized some thousands of Indians;" they 
also erected a church at a place called the Kullerspelm 
Lake, on Clarke's Kiver, where the Blessed Virgin ap- 
peared in person to a little Indian boy, " whose youth, 
piety, and sincerity," say the good fathers, "joined to 
the nature of facts which he related, forbade us to doubt 
of the truth of his statement." 

If the Catholics base their calculations of the number 
and fervor of their converts among the Indians on such 
trash as the idea of a little Indian boy having seen the 
Virgin Mary, a just estimate can be formed of their ac- 
tual worth by those persons who, knowing the Indian 
nature, place but very little reliance on such idle and 
apocryphal tales. 

From this period, 1836, the emigration began to in- 
crease until 1843, when, a promise of protection firom the 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 237 

federal government to emigrants having been held out 
by the passage through the Senate of a bill for the im- 
mediate occupation of Oregon, a thousand persons as- 
sembled at Westport, near the Missouri Eiver, on the 
frontier of the State of jMissouri, from which thej began 
.their march to Oregon, with a large number of wagons, 
horses, and cattle, in June, 1843. 

They arrived in the Willamet Valley in October, after 
having undergone a laborious and fatiguing journey of 
more than two thousand miles. They were subjected 
to sickness and privation, and seven of the party died 
by the way ; but the difficulties, upon the whole, were 
much less than had been anticipated even by the most 
sanguine, and their success encouraged a much greater 
emigration in 1844, before the end of which year the 
population of Oregon exceeded three thousand. This 
expedition utterly refuted and overthrew an article which 
appeared in the Edinburgh Review of 1843, "and which, 
though generally correct," says Greenhow, yet affirmed, 
ex cathedra^ that, '' however the political questions be- 
tween England and America as to the ownership of Or- 
egon may be decided, Oregon will never be colonized 
overland from the United States. The world must as- 
sume a new face before the American wagons make 
plain the road to the Columbia as they have done to the 
Ohio." Yet, in face of this assertion of what was sup- 
posed to be superior wisdom, the American emigrants 
did reach Oregon by a road that Nature has made as 
plain as that from the Atlantic to the Ohio. 

From this time the emigration gradually increased till 
the discovery of gold in California in 1849, when not 
only was a large poiiion of the emigration diverted to 
the California trade, but many of the actual settlers of 
Oregon left for the country of gold. 

The reaction is slowly taking place, and at the time 



238 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

of my landing at Astoria I found it to be quite a thriving 
town, with some six hundred inhabitants, a custom- 
house, general distributing post-office for the two Terri- 
tories of Oregon and Washington, ten or twelve saw and 
grist mills, and a general bustle and stirring business 
appearance. Astoria is divided into two villages : Upper 
Astoria, where the custom-house and two or three saw- 
mills are, is near Tongue Point ; and Lower Astoria, con- 
sisting of the old settlement of Fort George, contains the 
post-office, several saw and grist mills, and the principal 
portion of the business community, among which latter 
should always be named with honorable mention the J 
trading-house of Leonard & Green, and the tavern-house ■ 
of Mr. Bolin, where the tired traveler may at all times 
find repose and all necessary refreshments at reasonable 
charges. 

A military road from Astoria to Salem, the seat of 
government of Oregon, was provided for by an act of 
the thirty-third Congress, appropriating $25,000 to be i 
expended under the direction of the Secretary of War. 
Early in 1855, Lieutenant Derby, well known as a face- 
tious writer over the signature of "Phoenix," alias 
" Squibob," alias "Butterfield," and sundry other 
nommes de plume, was ordered to take charge of the 
work, and during that spring (1855) he proceeded to 
Astoria, and commenced operations, and has worked at 
it JsX intervals, until recently (1856) it has been placed 
under the charge of Lieutenant MendeU. The road has 
been made fit for wagons to pass over from Astoria, in 
the direction of the Tualiten Plains, a distance of twen- 
ty-two miles. This road commences at Astoria, near 
the custom-house, and about one mile east of the old 
town. 

A farther appropriation of $10,000 has been asked 
from Congress to complete this road, which will, when 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 239 

finished, be of vast importance to Oregon, both in a mil- 
itary point of view, and also as opening a means of com- 
munication with the interior, which will be of incalcula- 
ble benefit to emigrants and settlers. 
— When a military road shall have been made from the 
Columbia opposite Astoria to Olympia, the seat of gov- 
ernment of Washington Territory, the two roads can be 
connected by a ferry, and a line of communication unin- 
terrupted can be kept up throughout the year between 
the capitals of both Territories — a movement which is 
very much needed at present, as during the winter 
months the floods or ice block up the roads and streams 
in the interior, often preventing mail communication for 
weeks. 

-^ Astoria is the sea-port of the Oregon side of the Co- 
lumbia, and when the military road now in progress be- 
tween Astoria and Salem shall be completed, it wiU. be a 
place of importance, and undoubtedly the largest trading 
town in Oregon. 



CHAPTER XIY. 

Cross the Columbia to Chenook. — Meet Fiddler Smith. — ^We start for 
Shoal-water Bay with Captain Johnson. — Johnson falls overboard. 
— John Edmands. — Ox-team Express. — Get stuck in the Swamp. — 
Captain Nichols and his Whale-boat. — The Fiddler and myself take 
Passage. — Safe Arrival. — ^Another Start for Astoria. — Detention by 
Storm. — General Adair, of Astoria. — Canoe Adventure with Peter. — 
Sturgeon-fishing. — SaUeel and his Sturgeons' Heads. — Johnson's 
Lake. — A hard Walk. — Toke in the Mud. — ^Brook Navigation. — ^In- 
dian Method of making Fire. — Rate of Speed home. — Strawberry 
Expedition. 

After waiting over night at Astoria, I crossed the 
river to Chenook, where I found a person named Smith, 
who was waiting an opportunity to go to Shoal- water 
Bay. We soon made a bargain with Captain Johnson, 



240 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

an old settler at Baker's Bay, and a former pilot on the 
river, to take us to the portage on the "Wallacut River, 
known at that time as Feister's Portage, Smith (who 
was named by the whites Fiddler Smith, to designate 
him from several other members of that remarkably pro- 
lific family) having assured me that we could get an ox- 
team to transport our effects, which he averred could not 
be had at M'Carty's, on the Wappalooche Eiver. We 
had a very nice sail till we reached the bar at the en- 
trance of the Wallacut, where Johnson, finding the tide 
out and the channel intricate, took in sail, and, jumping 
overboard, with the boat's painter over his shoulder, start- 
ed out boldly to tow us through the shallow water. He 
had not made any calculations for two or three deep holes 
into which he floundered, coming up as wet and as shiny 
as an otter; but he managed to get us over the bar and 
into deep water, when he and the fiddler took to the oars, 
while I steered the boat. 

The Wallacut is a small, crooked stream, running 
through excellent prairie-lands, which are very fertile. 

At the mouth of the river we passed the house and 
farm of Mr. John Edmands, a settler who has resided 
many years on the Columbia, and has a most excellent 
farm well stocked. 

John Edmands is a celebrated hunter, and yearly 
slaughters quantities of elk, deer, and bears, all of which 
are very plentiful around his claim. He is a capital shot 
as well as a capital fellow, and an animal must make sure 
to die when John " draws a bead" on him with his fine 
rifle. 

As we proceeded up the river we passed several clear- 
ings and claims, occupied by persons who were strangers 
to me, and finally, about noon, arrived at a raft of drift- 
logs, which formed the head of navigation, and, on land- 
ing, found ourselves at Feister's. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAT. 241 

We soon had a team with two yoke of oxen, and, 
placing our traps into the wagon, started off to walk over 
the portage, which at this crossing is three miles or more 
across. The road was most execrable — much worse than 
the other or M'Carty's portage; and, after floundering 

. in the mud a while, old Johnson, who was with us, pro- 
posed taking a short cut through the woods, to which we 
agreed, Johnson acting as pilot ; but we had better have 
kept the cart-path, for he led us into a bog, where we 
got most completely mired, and extricated ourselves with 
difficulty, and at last reached the house of Mrs. Paulding, 
situated at the other end of the portage. Our ox-express 
shortly arrived ; and, after wasting several hours in the 
fruitless endeavor to procure a boat or canoe, were at 
length cheered by the sight of a sail; and shortly a 
whale-boat, owned and commanded by an ancient mar- 
iner, called Captain Nichols, and manned by himself and 
a Dutchman, arrived, and, for a consideration then and 
there agreed upon, the worthy Nichols agreed to trans- 
port us across the Bay. Bidding good-by to Captain 
Johnson, we embarked in Captain Nichols's boat, and 
shortly were under all sail, beating down the Bay. We 
reached a settlement some fifteen or twenty miles dis- 
tant, called Oysterville, where quite a number of oyster- 
men had collected during my absence to San Francisco. 
As it was dark, and the tide being out, we concluded to 
sleep on board the boat. Smith and myself not being 
anxious to try old Johnson's experience on the Walla- 
cut of sounding the depth of sundry holes between us 
and the shore. 

— - In the morning, as soon as we could see, I went ashore 
to carry letters and papers (for we had brought the mail). 
Here I found encamped a lot of Indians, who were very 
glad to see me ; and shortly the whole camp was roused, 
and came flocking to us to learn the news. After tak- 

L 



242 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

ing breakfast with my friend Harry Stevens, we again 
made sail, and stood across the Bay to the mouth of the 
little Querquelin, where I went ashore, and found Cap- 
tain Purrington well, and every thing looking as fresh 
and green as a fertile soil and warm June sun could make 
it. I found that during my absence there had been quite 
an emigration to the Bay, and some neighbors were lo- 
cated quite near. Captain William Lake, an old Staten 
Island oysterman, had put up a house down the beach 
about half a mile, and just beyond him Baldt and two 
others had built another residence. 

So, as far as neighbors were concerned, our prospects 
were much better than when I had left the Bay five 
months previous ; but the cold weather, which had com- 
menced on the day I left (January 1st, 1854), and con- 
tinued ten days, had destroyed not only our bed of oys- 
ters, but also those of every person in the Bay. This 
was a pecuniary matter not particularly pleasant, but 
could not be helped. 

I had been but two or three days in the Bay, when I 
had occasion to go to Astoria, and took a passage with 
Toke's family, who were going to visit Tomanawos's 
people, who resided on Baker's Bay. We took the same 
portage I had recently crossed, and, after passing one 
night on the road, and sleeping in an old wagon I found 
at the portage, we arrived at the lodge of the Indians on 
Baker's Bay, near which was the residence of J. D. Hol- 
man, Esq., the postmaster of Pacific City, who, with his 
family, were always ready to extend their hospitalities 
to all travelers. 

I was received with a cordial and hearty welcome by 
Mr. Holman, and invited to pass the night at his house, 
which I did, intending to cross the Columbia the next 
morning in Johnson's boat to Astoria ; but, when morn- 
ing came, so did a violent southeast storm of wind and 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 243 

rain, which kept me four days unable to get away, and, 
when we did start, that is to say, old Johnson and my- 
self, there was so much wind and such a sea that we had 
to run for the mouth of the Wappalooche or Chenook 
River, which we reached after running through the break- 
ers in fine style, and landed under the lee of the bank 
near George Dawson's house, and from thence walked 
round the beach to Chenook. 

The next morning (June 9th, 1854) I crossed the river 
to Astoria, and proceeded to the custom-house, where 
the collector. General John Adair, appointed me to take 
charge of the interests of the United States Treasury De- 
partment for that portion of the coast north of the Co- 
lumbia, including Shoal- water Bay and Gray's Harbor, 
to Cape Flattery ; the duties of the office being to report 
all vessels arriving at or departing from Shoal-water 
Bay, and to keep a diligent watch on the coast to see 
that none of the Eussian or Hudson Bay Companies' 
vessels came around either for smuggling or trading with 
the Indians. After this matter was properly arranged, 
I returned to the Bay with Peter, the Indian lad, in a 
small canoe. Toward the first of July I found it neces- 
sary to again visit Astoria, and, as Peter wished to take 
up Toke's large canoe to the portage for the purpose of 
bringing the family back from Chenook, where they had 
been fishing, I consented to help him get the canoe across 
the Bay, which, considering that the wind was fair, seem- 
ed an easy job, but we found it a tough one before we 
got through. The wind, which favored us at the start, 
died away before we were half way across the Bay, and 
by the time we had reached the mouth of the Tarlilt 
Creek, on our way over the portage to Baker's Bay, the 
tide was all out, and it was past sundown. We wished 
to proceed up the creek some two miles to where we in- 
tended landing, at Mrs. Paulding's, but had to remain at 



244 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

the mouth of the river waiting for the tide. The wind 
had now hauled into the south, with every indication of 
rain ; but we were tired out, and lay down in the canoe 
and went to sleep. We were awakened about midnight, 
and found the canoe half full of water, the wind blowing 
a gale, and the rain falling in torrents. I had on a suit 
of India-rubber clothes, but, as I had been lying down in 
the canoe, the water had run down my neck and up the 
legs of my pantaloons, and I was as wet as if I had been 
overboard ; however, there was no help but to try and 
get up the creek. Although the tide was now rising 
and in our favor, yet the wind blew down stream with 
such violence that at times I thought it would blow the 
old canoe into the prairie, and it was not till nearly three 
o'clock in the morning that we reached Mrs. Paulding's. 
We found no one at home but two little boys, who got 
ns some breakfast, while we dried our clothes as we best 
could around the fire. It was still raining violently and 
blowing hard as we commenced our journey over the 
portage, which by this time was nearly impassable from 
fallen limbs and trunks of trees broken by the gale. As 
we reached Feister's house we met Captain John Yail, 
who begged us to go in out of the storm, but we de- 
clined, as we were then wet, and did not care for the 
rain, having the whole day before us to travel in ; so we 
pushed on through the wet grass in the prairie, and over 
the now swollen stream of the Wallacut, which we man- 
aged to cross on drift logs, and at last reached the mouth 
of the river, where we were ferried over by John Ed- 
mands' son, and then took up our line of march for the 
Wappalooche or Chenook Biver, which we crossed in a 
canoe we got from old Sailed, and then walked to Che- 
nook, where we arrived about five o'clock P.M., having 
walked about eighteen miles through a violent rain-storm 
since breakfast. However, we were very well satisfied. 



THREE TEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 245 

for the rain ceased when we reached Chenook, and the 
sun set bright and clear, giving token of a pleasant day 
for the morrow. The next day I crossed the river to 
Astoria, and on my return, which was late in the after- 
noon, made arrangements with the Indians to start for 
the Bay the day following. 

As there were a number of Indians going to the 
mouth of the river, near Cape Disappointment, we all 
started together as soon as the tide began to ebb the 
next morning. As we were crossing Baker's Bay, I saw 
several Indians fishing for sturgeon. 

Their method is to fasten a salmon-hook to a long 
line similar to a large-sized cod-line. The hook is then 
placed on the end of a pole, and the Indian goes along 
slowly in his canoe over the shoals, with the pole down, 
feeling for the fish in the same manner as described before 
for taking salmon. When the Indian feels the sturgeon, 
he sticks the hook into it, and, quickly hauling in the pole, 
slacks out some of the line, and prepares for a race. As 
soon as the sturgeon feels the hook, away he starts like an 
arrow, and the canoe goes whizzing and spinning along 
at a fearful rate, and requires a good deal of dexterous 
management to prevent being turned over. As the fish 
slackens speed, the Indian hauls in the line, and by per- 
severance at last tires the fish so that it is hauled to the 
surface of the water, and stunned by a blow on the head 
or nose with a heavy club carried for the pui-pose. The 
trouble now is to get the sturgeon into the canoe, for 
sometimes these fish weigh from three to four hundred 
pounds, and are from twelve to fifteen feet long. The 
Indian contrives to get the sturgeon's head over the gun- 
wale of the canoe, and with a peculiar twist suddenly 
jerks the fish in without any apparent difficulty. I 
have thus seen two Indians get a sturgeon into a little 
canoe that white men never could have accomplished ex- 



246 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

cept by lifting the fish bodily, and then gently depositing 
it into the bottom of the canoe, so as not to capsize it. 
Sometimes an Indian will catch two or three great stur- 
geon during one tide, for they generally begin to fish as 
the tide begins to flood, when the sturgeon follow up in 
the shoal water to feed. 

The fish, after being carried home, is opened, care be- 
ing taken to save all the blood, which is put into a ket- 
tle with some choice cuts, and then boiled. The head, 
like that of the salmon, is esteemed the best part, and is 
either boiled, or cut in strips and broiled or roasted be- 
fore the fire. The pith of the back bone is considered a 
great luxury, and is eaten raw ; and, although not having 
more flavor than the white of an egg, is not unpalatable. 

The rest of the fish is then cut in thin strips and 
dried in the smoke. The sturgeon taken at the mouth 
of the Columbia and in Shoal-water Bay are more deli- 
cate flavored and tender, finer grained than any stur- 
geon I have ever seen in any part of the world. The 
Indians prefer them to salmon, but it is much more diffi- 
cult to take them. Old Salleel, at the mouth of the 
Wappalooche or Chenook River, was a great hand at 
catching sturgeon, and usually had three or four stur- 
geons' heads, on as many poles, stuck up around his 
lodge, where they filled the air with their perfume. 
What his object was no one appeared to know, and as 
he was the only Indian whom I met with that seemed 
to fancy such ornaments, I presumed it was to gratify 
some freak of his own. He was among the fishermen 
as we passed, and made us a present of as much as we 
wanted of a fine fat sturgeon he had just caught. 

We landed near the lodge of Tomanawos ; and while I 
went to Mr. Holman's to get the mail for Shoal-water 
Bay, the Indians were packing their things across a short 
portage to a small sheet of water called Johnson's Lake. 



THEEE TEARS AT SHOAL-WATEE BAY. 247 

I soon joined them, but found that the water was so low 
at the outlet to the lake we should have to walk. 

This was the longest possible way to cross over from 
the Columbia to Shoal- water Bay, the route being almost 
diagonally across the peninsula. However, we each took 
our pack and started. Our road lay over a quaking bog 
for nearly the whole distance, and was certainly only fit 
to be traveled by Indians. Part of the time we had to 
jump over from one bunch of grass to another to clear 
the soft mud between ; but we got along very well, ex- 
cept old Toke, who, having a heavy load on his back, 
slipped on a bunch of grass, and sank into the mud up 
to his arm-pits. I asked him if he felt bottom ; but he 
said not, and thought his bundle was the means of pre- 
venting his sinking entirely out of sight. I asked why 
they preferred crossing such a dangerous place, when 
they could have kept on high land. "Oh," they said, 
"that was the way they always did." As we came to 
the outlet to the lake, which was but a mere brook, we 
found the bushes so thick that it was decided to follow 
the channel down till we reached the canoe. This was 
a pretty piece of navigation ; sometimes the water would 
be two inches deep, and in three steps more it would be 
four or five feet deep. But we did not care ; the weather 
was warm and pleasant, the bushes full of berries, and 
after we had once got drenched it made no difference 
how deep the water was. But we reached the canoe 
safely, and in two or three minutes had a fire blazing and 
some sturgeon cooking. The Indians would always and 
invariably kindle a fire whenever we would stop for half 
an hour either to wait for some one to come up or while 
waiting for the tide. They are the most expert people 
to build fires in wet weather I ever met with. I was 
one night obliged to camp out during a heavy rain, being 
imable to cross the Bay on account of the wind blowing 



248 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OK, 

violently. I saw no possible means of procuring a fire. 
We were at a place where there were no large trees, and 
all the drift-wood was saturated with water ; but the In- 
dians soon had a blaze, which they kindled in this man- 
ner: There was plenty of the dry, dead stalks of the 
wild or cow-parsnip lying about. These stalks are hol- 
low, with a dry substance inside that bums like tinder ; 
and no matter how much it may rain, the inside of 
these dead stalks is always dry. The Indians had used 
this material, and, after once starting a blaze, soon man- 
aged to have a roaring fire. 

As soon as all our party arrived we started for home, 
and, having proceeded as far as Long Island, went 
ashore some fifteen miles from where we had left, and 
made a camp, where we stopped all night. We could 
have reached home easily, but, as there was no occasion 
for haste, I preferred to travel just as the Indians were 
used to going, without hurrying them up continually, 
which only vexes them to no purpose. Indians can be 
hired to go as quick as a person desires, but when they 
are traveling with their families, they dislike very much 
being obliged to go faster than a very moderate pace. 

When in the canoe, all hands will paddle vehemently, 
and one would suppose the journey would be speedily 
accomplished, the canoe seeming almost to fly. This 
speed will be kept up for a hundred rods, when they 
cease paddling, and all begin talking. Perhaps one has 
spied something, which he has to describe while the rest 
listen ; or another thinks of some funny anecdote or oc-.. 
currence that has transpired among the Indians they 
have been visiting, that has to be related ; or they are 
passing some remarkable tree, or clifi", or stone, which has 
a legend attached to it, and which the old folks never 
can pass without relating to the young, who all give the 
most respectful attention. When the tale is over, the 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 249 

steersman gives the word " Que-nuJc, que-nuk^ whid- 
tuck''' (now, now, hurry), when all again paddle away 
with a desperate energy for a few minutes, and then the 
same scene is again enacted. But if the wind happens 
to be fair, then they are happy ; the sail is set if they 
have one, or, if not, some one's blanket serves instead, 
and down they sit in the bottom of the canoe, and eat 
dried fish and tell stories. If the wind is very fresh and 
squally, they sit to the windward, and whenever a puff 
strikes the sail strong enough to threaten a capsize, they 
all dip their paddles deep into the water, bringing the 
broadside of the blade toward the bottom of the canoe, 
which serves the purpose of righting her and throwing 
the sail up into the wind. They are exceedingly expert 
in their canoes, and very seldom meet with accidents. 

We reached the Querquelin Creek early the next 
morning, and found the captain as busy as a bee collect- 
ing oysters and cultivating cabbages. The next day 
being the fourth of July, we concluded to celebrate it by 
going after berries ; so, taking our tent and large canoe, 
we went across the Bay to the point of the peninsula, 
called Leadbetter Point, where we found a number of In- 
dians camped, and any quantity of berries — strawber- 
ries, blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries, black cur- 
rants, and huckleberries. These berries the Indian wom- 
en and children picked when the tide was up, but at low 
water they collected clams for drying, while the men shot 
seals or caught sturgeon. 

It appears to me as if Shoal-water Bay is an Indian's 
paradise. There is no time of the year, excepting win- 
ter, and only a short time then, but what a plenty of food 
can be obtained by any one who is not too lazy to go 
out for it. The captain and myself amused ourselves by 
going to the weather beach, or the Pacific coast beach, 
to collect spikes, bolts, or any useful matters we could 

L2 



250 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

find among the drift-stuff which had been thrown ashore 
during the winter storms. Whenever we returned to 
our tent, we were sure to find a "basket or two of nice 
fi:esh berries covered over with green leaves. We re- 
mained at the camp a couple of days, and then return- 
ed, leaving the Indians, who intended stopping longer, 
to lay in a stock of dried clams. 



CHAPTEE XV. 

Visit to the Queniult Indians with Winant and Eoberts. — Cross the Bay 
and camp with the Indians. — Carcowan and Tleyuk. — ^Trouble on 
starting. — Arrival at Gray's Harbor. — Armstrong's Point. — Difficulty 
with Caslahhan. — Sam fires at Caslahhan. — ^A Settlement. — Swarms 
of Fleas. — Our Camp. — We proceed up the Beach. — Adventure with 
a Bear. — Reach the Copalis River. — Wreck of the Steamer General 
Warren. — The Current north of the Columbia. — Appearance of the 
Coast. — ^Point Grenville. — ^Arrive at Queniult. — Peculiar Variety of 
Salmon. — Indian Tricks. — I am taken sick. — Old Carcowan wishes 
to have me killed. — Description of the Queniults. — Start for Shoal- 
water Bay. — Indian Hospitality. — ^Bird Feast at Point Grenville. — 
Style of Cooking. — Heavy Surf and a Capsize. — We proceed through 
the Breakers. — Arrive at Gray's Harbor. — ^A Feast. — ^I'ine View. — 
Reach Home. 

There were a good many Indians in the Bay at this 
time, who had been collecting oysters for the whites, and 
I had several invitations to go up the Coast ; but the 
reputation of the Coast tribes was so bad that I did not 
care to go among them, and particularly as I had just 
heard of their bad treatment of Colonel Simmons, the 
Indian agent, who had been robbed by some of the Quai- 
tso Indians only a few weeks previous. 

At last they hit upon a plan which was pretty sure 
to call me up, which was this. They had found out 
that if any vessel had arrived at any point on the Coast, 
it was necessary for me to proceed to her. So they came 
one day with a report that there was si> Jlreship, or steam- 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 251 

er, at anchor near Point Grenville, trading with the 
Queniult Indians. They also produced some fine speci- 
mens of coal, which they asserted was to be had in any 
quantity directly on the Coast ; and they still farther 
asserted that there was plenty of gold in the mountains 
of the interior. I knew of no steamers on the Coast 
trading with the Indians, unless it might be either the 
Hudson Bay steamers or some one of the Russians ; 
however, it was necessary for me to go, and accordingly 
I at once proceeded to make preparations. 

Two of the settlers, Messrs. Samuel Winant and R. 
Roberts, agreed to accompany me. I had accustomed 
myself to the use of Indian food, and could get along 
very well with dried salmon and the new potatoes, which 
were then ready for use. The others, however, had no 
idea of stinting themselves to such fare, and, according- 
ly, we made preparations by boiling a ham, filling a bag 
with ship-bread, some rice, sugar, and cofiee, not to for- 
get salt, pepper, and vinegar. These preparations be- 
ing completed, I engaged two Indians, Peter and Cle- 
theas, to carry my blankets and assist me ; and Sam 
Winant and Roberts had an Indian, called George, and 
two or three others of little use. Our plan of proceed- 
ing, as agreed on, was to cross the Bay, and then walk 
by way of the beach to Gray's Harbor, eighteen miles 
distant, and, after crossing that bay, to again proceed, 
either on foot or on horseback, over the beach to the 
place of our destination. We had to pass through the 
lands of the Chehalis and Copalis tribes to reach the' 
Queniult country, and, as there were a number of In- 
dians of each tribe who were going home and intended 
accompanying us, we at first did not know what course 
to pursue so as to avoid giving ofiense, for each insisted 
on being the party to carry us through. Carcowan and 
his son Tleyuk, the chiefs of the Chehalis Indians, in- 



252 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

sisted that, as we would pass through their lands first, 
they were entitled to let the horses and canoes for the 
whole distance ; but the Copalis said they had better 
horses than Carcowan, and we must take theirs ; while 
the Queniults, whom we were going to visit, asserted that 
we were their guests, and none of the others had a right to 
interfere. This anxiety to render us a service, it should 
be remembered, did not arise from their particular fond- 
ness for us, or from any natural love of hospitality, but 
simply to get what pay they could out of us. 

This difficulty seemed likely to be serious, and, after 
crossing the Bay, it was concluded to make a camp and 
remain till the next morning, and, in the mean time, have 
the matter fairly understood. So the subject was, as 
[Roberts remarked, fully discussed by the natives, and 
fully cursed by us. 

At last old Carcowan, who was the oldest person pres- 
ent, and who was the spokesman, agreed to leave the 
matter to me to decide, which I did at once by agreeing 
that we would use his horses while passing through his 
lands, and when we crossed the bay of Gray's Harbor 
would take the guidance of the Copalis Indians till we 
should reach the Copalis E-iver, and then the Queniults 
should take us the rest of the way. This arrangement 
appeared to please all parties except old Carcowan, who 
wished to grab all the costs of the expedition ; but we 
did not mind him, and, to show that we did not care to 
humor him, concluded to walk, and only take one horse 
to pack our blankets and provisions. 

Early the next morning we started, after seeing that 
the canoe that was to take us across Gray's Harbor had 
first set out ; for she had to be taken round the beach 
through the surf, and her owner, whose name was Cas- 
lah^han — an ugly-looking scamp, with but one eye — had 
the reputation of being a very tricky fellow, so we were 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 253 

determined to make him start first, which he did, having 
another Indian with him to assist. After we had pack- 
ed our horse we started off single file, the horse ahead, 
led bj an Indian, and the rest of the party straggling on 
to suit their own convenience. Our road at first lay 
through a thick forest of small trees, which extends in a 
belt about two miles wide. From this we emerged into 
a sandy plain, covered with beach-grass, and, passing 
that, found ourselves on the beautiful beach which ex- 
tends in a line nearly north for eighteen miles to Gray's 
Harbor. We remained here a short time for the strag- 
glers to come up, and to make sure that Caslah^han and 
his canoe were coming, and shortly we perceived them 
like a speck on the horizon just coming round the point 
of Shoal-water Bay. It was a splendid morning, and a 
fresh northwest wind was throwing up a fine surf on the 
beach, and the white tops of the breakers could be seen 
as far as the eye could reach either north or south. 
Myriads of sea-fowl were flying round, and, as each of 
us had a gun, we amused ourselves by blazing away 
with pretty good success. Sam and Koberts did not 
feel in any hurry ; they were not much used to walking, 
and, as the sun got up, we found it pretty warm work. 
But I noticed the Indian with the pack-horse going on 
at a pretty good pace, and, as I thought it best to have 
an eye on our effects, I concluded to keep up with him. 
Accordingly, I soon found myself far in advance of the 
party, and at length arrived at Armstrong's Point, or 
Point Brown, as the maps have it ; but the settlers call 
it Armstrong's Point, as Mr. Armstrong, owner of a mill 
on the Chehalis River, had built a house there, a year or 
so previous, for a Dr. Eoundtree, who intended to found 
a city, and go into the manufacture of salt. The proj- 
ect, however, was abandoned, and I found the house in a 
very dilapidated condition, but, with the assistance of 



254 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

the Indian, soon had a fire for the purpose of cooking 
dinner for the others. I was very hot and thirsty, having 
walked six hours over the sand-beach in a hot sun, and 
began to look round for some water. The Indian point- 
ed me to the spring, which was at a short distance, but 
when I reached it I found a dead rat in the water. This 
the Indian soon cleaned out with the aid of an old tin 
kettle, and by the time the rest of the party arrived the 
water had become sufficiently sweet to drink, although 
strongly impregnated with the unpleasant odor. While 
we were eating our dinner, Caslah^han arrived with the 
canoe, tir&d and angry, for it appeared that he had quar- 
reled with the Indian who was helping him bring the 
canoe round, and the feUow had unceremoniously jump- 
ed ashore, leaving Caslah^han to get on the best he 
could. 

The canoe, which was a large one, was the only means 
we had to cross the Bay, for Carcowan's people, with all 
their canoes, were off up the river. But Caslah^han, 
who lived on the north side of the Bay, had determined 
to go on alone, and had already pushed off with a fair 
wind, and was some ten or twelve rods off from the shore, 
when Carcowan came up and asked Sam to run down 
and hail him, which he did, but, receiving no reply, Car- 
cowan urged him to fire, which Sam, without thinking, 
did, and the ball from his rifle came near enough to Cas- 
lah^han's head to cause him to take in his sail and put 
back. 

As soon as he landed, he came directly to me, and 
asked why Sam had fired at him. I replied that the 
surf was making so much noise on the beach that he 
did not seem to hear when he was hailed, and Sam had 
merely fired to attract his attention. "Well," said he, 
"he had no occasion to have fired at me, and if he had 
hit me you would aU have been killed." I, however, 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 255 

pacified him, and Sam made him a present, which set- 
tled the matter amicably. He now consented to ferry 
us across the Bay, and we reached the other side late in 
the afternoon, and were landed at his residence. 

The house in which he had resided during the winter 
was deserted, and part of the boards were removed, while 
the family were living in a mat house at a little distance. 
The reason of this was soon made known ; for, on walk- 
ing into the lodge, we were instantly covered with 
swarms of fleas, so numerous and large that they seemed 
to me like flax-seed, they were so big and shiny. We 
had to run into the water to get rid of these unwelcome 
intruders, and then found that the Indians had been 
fairly driven out of their lodge by these swarms. I sug- 
gested that they had better bum up the remainder of the 
house, so as to destroy the fleas ; but the Indians said, 
" Oh ! never mind ; when the winter comes they will all 
go away." But they did not go away from us so read- 
ily, for we were tormented with them all night. We 
had made for ourselves a rude shelter of boards, under 
which we. tried to get a little sleep, but we did not suc- 
ceed very well, and by daylight were all up and ready 
for breakfast. 

Sam and Eoberts now complained of fatigue, and said 
they would walk no more, but wait for horses, their ex- 
perience of the preceding twenty-four hours being of a 
nature little calculated to elevate their spirits. The 
horses, however, were at Copalis, eighteen miles distant. 
They dispatched an Indian for them, and concluded to 
wait where they were till the horses came ; but I, not 
feeling any fatigue, thought that, with George the Indian, 
we would start on and walk. George took a heavy pack 
on his back and a double-barreled gun, and both of us 
set out for a tramp. 

We had now to pass over a sand-waste covered with 



256 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

beach grass and stunted lupin bushes, and marked all 
over with the footprints of wild animals — bears, pan- 
thers, elk, deer, wolves, and foxes. It appeared to be a 
perfect highway for the brute creation. 

This barren tract was about three miles wide, reach- 
ing from the ocean to a dense forest of firs, and growing 
narrower, till at Copalis it was but a few rods wide, the 
forest growing to the edge of high-water mark. We 
crossed the desert as soon as we could, and when on 
the open beach sat down on a log to rest. Looking 
down the beach toward Gray's Harbor, I saw the rest 
of the party coming along slowly. They had become 
tired of waiting, and had gained the beach by a more di- 
rect route than we had taken. 

As far as the eye could reach might be seen immense 
flocks of gulls, plover, curlew, snipe, crows, ravens, and 
eagles. We amused ourselves as we went along shoot- 
ing these birds, and soon had enough for our dinner. 
Far in the distance I saw a large black object, which 
the Indian told me was a bear. Away I started to get 
between it and the woods, forgetting in my hurry that 
my gun was only loaded with shot. The Indian, who 
had more sense, called me back ; but, supposing that he 
merely wished to get the first shot, I kept on, and he 
started after me on a run, but he could not keep up on 
account of his pack. 

I soon discovered that the object of my pursuit was 
an old bear, and that she had a half-grown cub with her, 
which I had not noticed before. The old one had a fish 
in her mouth, which she had just picked up out of the 
surf, and the pair were leisurely moving toward the 
woods. They came up without taking any notice of me, 
and as soon as the old one was near enough, I fired, and 
struck her just back of the shoulder. 

The surprise and shock caused her to start and roll 



THKEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 257 

over ; for, although the gun was only loaded with shot, I 
was so near that the charge had but little chance to scat- 
ter. She recovered in an instant, and, after looking at 
her cub, started after me. But George had come up by 
this time, and fired off both barrels of his gun, which had 
the effect of starting her in another direction ; and away 
she went, bleeding profusely, and, with her cub, was 
soon out of sight in the bush. While this skirmish was 
going on, the rest of the party came up, and, having con- 
sulted, it was concluded to proceed, and not attempt any 
farther attack on the bears ; and while we were talking, 
we spied the horses we had so long expected. In a few 
minutes they came up, bringing a motley-looking crew 
of savages, whooping, yelling, and screaming, who, after 
showing us several of their feats of horsemanship, dis- 
mounted, and all hands proceeded to take a lunch. 
When we had our blankets and provisions secured on 
the pack-horse, Winant and Koberts mounted two oth- 
er horses and started off ahead ; but I preferred to walk, 
for my bear adventure had induced me to think that 
possibly I might get another shot. But I saw nothing 
more except a pine marten, which one of the Indians 
killed with a stick, and, after taking off the skin, tied it 
round my cap as a sort of trophy for my bravery in 
attacking a bear with a shot-gun — an adventure which I 
had by that time begun to consider as a most reprehen- 
sible act of folly. 

I reached the mouth of the Copalis Eiver about sun- 
down, and found that Sam and Boberts had a tent pitch- 
ed, a fine fire made, and a nice supper ready cooked. The 
tent, by the way, was not much of an affair, being sim- 
ply a boat's sail spread over a pole, and secured at the 
edges to keep it from blowing away ; but it answered 
very well, for all we wanted was simply to keep off the 
dew while we slept. 



258 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

The Copalis Eiver is a small stream that makes its 
way through the "beach into the Pacific. The waves 
constantly beating directly into its mouth have made 
bars which render it impossible for vessels to enter it, 
and commercially the river is of no value. We did not 
go up the stream, but it appeared to run for some dis- 
tance through a prairie, where no doubt good farms could 
be made. The river, at its mouth and for a mile up, is 
about four hundred feet wide, with from two to four feet 
of water at low tide. Like all the streams on the coast, 
it was a favorite resort for salmon, but at the time we 
were there they had not commenced running. The na- 
tives, however, had been catching great quantities of fish 
like the sculpin, which they impaled on sticks and roast- 
ed by the fire. We tried some, and found them sweet 
and good. These Indians were very hospitable, and gave 
us plenty of such food as they had. 

A party of Indians now arrived from Queniult, con- 
sisting of Haitlailth or John, with two of Kape's sons, 
and a lot of squaws, who were going a short distance 
farther for the purpose of cutting rushes for making mats. 
John and his wife, and Kape's boys, immediately con- 
cluded to return with us to Queniult the next morning. 

Sam and Koberts now declared their intention of go- 
ing no farther, but insisted on dividing the provisions 
with me, and said they intended to turn back that very 
night, and, as it was bright and clear, they would reach 
Gray's Harbor by midnight, as they could easily trot 
their horses over the beach in three hours. I tried to 
dissuade them, but to no purpose. But now a new dif- 
ficulty arose. The Indians had no idea of going back, " 
and to prevent Sam and Bob from going, they drove all 
the horses across the river, under pretense of putting 
them to pasture ; so we all lay down and went to sleep. 

Early next morning I took a pack-horse, and, with a 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 259 

dozen Indians, started across the river, and commenced 
our journey along the beach. About a mile from the 
river I discovered the whole of the stern frame of the 
propeller General Warren^ which had been wrecked on 
Clatsop Spit, at the mouth of the Columbia, two years 
previous. The strong current which sets north from 
the Columbia during the winter season had drifted this 
wreck till it was washed ashore forty miles from the Co- 
lumbia, up the coast. I have noticed on some charts 
that the current is represented as setting south ; but I 
have known of a great many boats and canoes which 
have broke adrift in Shoal-water Bay, and been carried 
by the ebb-tide out to sea, and in every instance were 
thrown ashore north of Shoal-water Bay, generally be- 
tween it and Gray's Harbor, proving, together with the 
wreck of the General Warren, just mentioned, the fact 
that the current always sets north from the mouth of 
the Columbia. 

As we proceeded on our course, we found the high land 
approach much nearer the beach ; and I also noticed that 
the cliffs, which presented the same general appearance 
as the shores around Shoal-water Bay, were composed of 
sandstone of various grades, some very coarse, and oth- 
ers as fine as the best quality of Nova Scotia blue grind- 
stone. After passing a ledge of rocks which projected 
out into the ocean, we stopped under a bluff to cook our 
breakfast; and while one was making a fire, another 
climbed up on the cliff, and procured some nice potatoes 
from a field or patch belonging to a (Siief of the Copalis' 
named Herkoisk; and a squaw coming along with a 
back-load of dry salmon, Kape's boy unceremoniously 
helped himself to half a dozen, and we soon had a very 
palatable breakfast. While we were eating, I noticed 
Sam and Bob coming up on horseback. They had 
changed their minds, they said, and were now going as 



260 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

far as Queniult, feeling a little pride about backing out 
and letting me go on alone. I told them they had bet- 
ter ride on, as I had determined to walk ; so they start- 
ed ahead, and were soon out of sight. 

As we walked along, I occasionally went to the top 
of the ridge of shingle and ballast stones which the 
storms had piled up in long rows, and through which, at 
short intervals, water was running in little silver streams. 
I found invariably these proceeded from some brook, 
whose mouth was stopped up by the stones, forming 
dams, behind which little ponds had formed, whose clear 
waters were well stocked with trout. There were a 
great many of these brooks on the route, and the Indians 
assured me they were all well stocked with beaver and 
otter. The whole distance thus far had been over the 
hard, smooth beach, with the exception of crossing the 
Copalis River and Gray's Harbor, and I had walked 
without any difficulty. We were now approaching Point 
Grenville, and the path was a little more difficult, being 
obstructed with stones and ledges of rock. We found 
Point Grenville to be a bluff, rocky promontory, rising 
abruptly from the ocean, into which it extended a short 
distance in a semicircular shape. A few hundred rods 
from the southeast corner of the Point were two py- 
ramidal rocks, some seventy or eighty feet high, which 
were covered with innumerable sea-fowl. This point is 
a good place for sea-otters, and it is where the Queniult 
Indians shoot their supply. 

There was a vdty difficult trail over the Point, and 
with some little trouble we got ourselves and horse 
over, though the horse could hardly scramble up the 
steep sides, and we had to pack our luggage on our own 
backs. From the top of this cliff was a fine view of the 
ocean and the shores that we had passed. As it was in 
the cove at this point where the Indians had represented 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAT. 263 

the steamer was lying at anchor, I thought it was time 
to make some further inquiries ; but, on discovering the 
marks of the coast survey, I concluded that the steamer 
was the United States surveying vessel, the "Active," 
Captain James Alden ; and upon questioning the In- 
dians, they acknowledged that she was a " Boston man- 
of-war fire-ship." So far as related to smuggling, I had 
walked sixty miles up the beach for no purpose, but I 
did not regret having started, as I had seen a line of 
coast which few, if any, white men had been over before. 

Descending the north side of Point Grenville, I found 
the shore very bold, and the heavy rollers of the Pacific 
dashing with tremendous force against the rocks, al- 
though there was little or no wind. The cHfi*s were of 
fine sandstone ; but, from the impossibility of shipping 
the stone, it can never be put to any useful purpose, ex- 
cept its being occasionally used, as at present, to sharpen 
the hooks, knives, and axes of the Indians. 

Some five miles farther north we came to the mouth 
of the Queniult River, and shortly reached the village, 
which is pleasantly situated on the south bank of the 
stream, near its mouth. The entrance to the Queniult 
is so badly blocked up with stones and gravel, piled up 
"by the waves, that it is difficult of entrance except for 
canoes, and only for these during calm intervals ; but, 
once in the riv-er, and it is found to be a beautiful little 
stream. The stopping of its mouth has caused the for- 
mation of a pretty little bay, whose waters are as pure 
as crystal. Early in the spring, a species of small salmon 
enter this river, which are justly celebrated among all the 
Indians for their superior richness of flavor. This varie- 
ty is from fourteen to twenty inches in length, rarely ex- 
ceeding two feet, and weighs fi:om five to ten pounds. 
Its general appearance is similar to the Columbia River 
salmon, but it never attains a larger size than that just 



264 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

mentioned, while in the Columbia fish weighing eighty 
pounds are not uncommon. 

The Queniult Indians take these fish principally by 
means of weirs, which they build with a great deal of 
skill, and also by spears and hooks.* 

I found, on my arrival, that my friends Sam and Eob- 
erts had rested themselves, while I began to feel the ef- 
fects of my three days' promenade. I told them what I 
had discovered about the smuggling steamer, and we had 
a hearty laugh about it. I now questioned the Indians 
about the coal, and they said some Indians from the 
north brought it to them. I knew better than to believe 
such a tale, as Indians are not generally in the practice 
of carrying about lumps of coal or any other geologic- 
al specimens. So I told them they had procured the 
coal from the steamer Active, which at first they had de- 
nied, but finally acknowledged, and thought the whole 
afiair was a good joke. They had devised the plan for 
the purpose of getting us to visit them, as they had tried 
every inducement to prevail on me to go to Queniult for 
a long time without success. 

As we found no chance of any farther discovery in that 
vicinity, it was proposed to return the next day ; but I 
had taken a severe cold in my face, which was badly 
swelled, and caused me much pain. Accordingly, my 
two companions left the next morning, while I preferred 
to remain tiU I felt better. I had been invited by Kape 
to stop in his lodge, and every attention was shown me. 
A bed was made up of a quantity of new mats, over 
which I spread my blankets, and contrived to make my- 
self pretty comfortable ; but my face continuing to swell, 

* Whenever I make mention of catching salmon by hooks, it should 
be understood that these are large hooks, which are used as a gaff, and 
not, as many might suppose, with bait. The Indians never attempt to 
catch salmon with a baited hook. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 265 

I asked the Indians to give me some remedies of their 
preparing. 

One of the squaws then went out and gathered some 
herbs, which were burned to a cinder and mixed with 
grease, with which she anointed my face till I was as 
black as an Ethiopian. 

While I lay in this uncomfortable manner, old Car- 
cowan arrived, with a slave named Pohks, who was fool- 
ish, and who afforded much fun to the Indians by im- 
itating war -dances and sundry specimens of buffoon- 
ery. 

Carcowan soon had a crowd around him in the lodge, 
when they commenced gambling, and kept it up aU day 
and nearly all night. 

I noticed that Carcowan was making some proposition 
to the rest which did not appear to meet with their ap- 
probation ; and, although I did not understand the lan- 
guage he was using, yet his frequent repetition of the 
word squintum, or white man, made me certain he was 
talking about me. However, he made no impression on 
his auditors, and presently he got up in a rage and went 
off home. I then questioned Peter and Cletheas, who 
were in the lodge, and they stated that Carcowan was 
proposing to the Queniults to kill Sam, Bob, and my- 
self, for the reason that Governor Stevens had hung some 
acquaintances or friends of theirs at Nesqually, and also 
because Sam had fired at Caslahhan. But the Queni- 
ults told Carcowan they would have nothing to do with 
any such business, and redoubled their attentions to me. 

I had not seen how my face looked, and on asking for 
a glass they all began to laugh, and so did I when I saw 
myself. I at once got some water and washed off the 
mess, and, having found some cooling leaves, bound 
them on my face and reduced the swelling. 
' The third day I felt well enough to start for home, 

M 



266 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OK, 

but first, at their request, went up the river ten or fifteen 
miles, and visited several lodges. I found plenty of 
white pipe-clay, and the Indians make use of it to paint 
or whitewash the interior of some of their lodges, and 
then, with red ochre and charcoal, they make hideous 
drawings of whales, salmon, bears, or any other animal 
they wish to illustrate. This whitewashing process is 
by no means a general one, although it is certainly a 
great improvement. 

Although the Queniult is a very beautiful stream, it 
does not present any thing very attractive to the white 
settler, and I doubt if any person locates there for a long 
time to come. Farther in the interior is a fine sheet of 
water called Qaeniiilt Lake, around which, I have been 
informed, is some excellent land ; but, as I did not go 
up there, I can not speak from personal experience. 

Many, if not all the young Indians on the river never 
had seen a white person before, and they were as wild 
and shy as deer. I found that, like all the other Indian 
children I had met with, they were very fond of boiled rice 
and sugar, and as I had some of both, I managed in a 
short time to gain the good-will of the children, and by 
the aid of some plugs of tobacco made friends with the 
parents. 

In Kape's lodge were four families : his own, John or 
Haitlilth's, Wahmalsh, Kape's oldest son, and another, 
whose name I did not learn. 

Kape had some ten or twelve children — a most re- 
markable occurrence, as these Indians are not prolific, 
rarely having more than three or four. 

Kape's wife caused great envy by her numerous prog- 
eny, and was called in derision Squintoo, or the Hen 
Partridge. Her eldest son was married, and her youn- 
gest son was but three weeks old, and the intermediate 
children were all ages from two to eighteen. She, how- 

I 



i 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 267 

ever, did not know their ages, for, like the rest of the 
Indians on the Coast, they never keep an account of 
any person's age. John's wife had two children, and 
thought herself very well off. The rest of the families 
had no children, but there were quite enough. 

Kape's oldest daughter was about sixteen years of 
age, and, for an Indian, was quite pretty, but she was as 
wild as a fox. Her mother told her to hand me some 
rice one day while I was sick, and just as she reached 
me a plate John's wife said something, when she dropped 
the rice, breaking the plate, and rushed out of the lodge. 
I did not see her again while I remained. The rest 
burst into a regular gale of merriment, and finally John 
told me that his wife told the girl I had come to buy 
her of her father, which was the cause of the sudden 
fright. I could not blame her much, for my face, painted 
over with grease and soot, did not look very attractive. 

This village was composed of five lodges, to each of 
which was a small inclosure, where they raised most 
excellent potatoes. The lodges were made of cedar 
boards, similar in all respects to those lodges of Shoal- 
water Bay, and were remarkably well built, and very 
clean. On the bank of the river they had erected a huge 
flag-staff, from the top of which a red shirt was flutter- 
ing, as a rude imitation of the flags of the white men 
they had seen either at Vancouver's Island or at the Co- 
lumbia Eiver. Between the lodges and the sea-beach 
was a large canoe, in which were the remains of some 
dead person^ and the different colored blankets and cal- 
icoes hung round gave the place an appearance of clothes 
hung out to dry on a washing day. 

The morning we were to start, Kape went out and 
shot a fine fat raccoon, which was cleaned and boiled in a 
large iron kettle ; John's wife baked some bread in the 
ashes ; another squaw boiled a mess of salmon and po- 



268 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

tatoes ; Kape's wife dug up a bushel of potatoes, and 
put them in a new basket ; and another squaw brought 
in a fine salmon trout and roasted it. I watched all this 
proceeding without knowing what was to be done with 
it, but found, on going to the canoe, that it was for me 
and my two Indians, and was already firmly secured in 
the canoe, so as not to fall out if she should happen to 
capsize. 

Some of the tribe who were going to Gray's Harbor 
agreed to keep us company, and accordingly launched 
two canoes, one of which contained twenty persons, and 
the other ten — men, women, children, and slaves ; and 
among the latter was Pohks, Carcowan's fool, who had 
been left when Carcowan returned home. It was early 
in the morning when we started, and, as the tide was 
nearly out, we went over the breakers without any diffi- 
culty. It was a lovely morning. Not a breath of air 
was stirring, and the water was as smooth as oil, with 
the exception of the line of breakers on the beach. The 
canoe I was in was quite small, and contained Cletheas, 
who steered, Peter, who sat in the bow, and myself. I 
had nothing to do but sit still, or lie down in the bottom 
of the canoe as ballast. She was a mere cockle of a 
thing, and yet we were about to travel sixty miles down 
the coast in her ; but I had every confidence in the skill 
of the Indians, and was not afraid to venture where they 
did. We soon doubled the bluff of Point GrenviUe, and 
I noticed that the Indians were all heading in toward the 
beach instead of proceeding at once to Gray's Harbor. 
I 'asked the Indians why they were going ashore, and re- 
ceived for reply the invariable ^^Klo-nas,'''' or, *'I don't 
know ;" a term which is fully as expressive and as often 
used as the Mexican Quien sabe. After we were all land- 
ed, it appeared that. the Indians were going to have some 
birds ; so, hauling up the largest canoe on the beach, 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 271 

they put all the effects into her, and, taking the other 
two canoes and my gun, started off for the rocks. They 
were gone nearly an hour, and, when they returned, 
brought with them thirty half-fledged loons — which were 
the size of ducks, and very fat — and five pelicans. 

During the time they had been absent, the women — 
who, with the children, remained behind — had built a 
large fire of dry limbs and drift stuff, and heaped a pile 
of stones on top of the burning pile, and by the time the 
birds had been prepared, which was by simply removing 
the entrails, the fire had burned down, leaving nothing 
but hot ashes and stones. On to these some fern leaves 
were laid, and on the ferns the birds were placed. A 
bucket or two of water was dashed over the whole, and 
the heap then covered as quick as possible with mats 
and blankets, and sand heaped over all to keep in the 
steam. 

In about half an hour the pile was opened, and the 
birds taken out thoroughly cooked. The skin and feath- 
ers readily came off, and I thought the flavor of the birds 
thus cooked was excellent. As it was scarcely noon 
when we had finished, I supposed we should at once pro- 
ceed, and get as far as the Copalis Eiver; but the In- 
dians had no such intention, but preferred rolling round 
on the sand in the hot sun. There was very little wind 
all that day, and at night we had the full moon and a 
cloudless sky to enliven the scene. We had done very 
well for lazy folks, having progressed six miles on our 
journey. 

The next morning we were all up and started on our 
course just as the day dawned, and as the wind was still 
calm and the water smooth, I hoped we should go direct 
to Gray's Harbor, which I could have reached in a whale- 
boat, with four men to pull her, in a few hours ; but as 
we approached the Copalis Eiver, I saw they again head- 



272 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

ed in for the beach, at the place where the ledge of rocks 
make out that I noticed while coming up. 

The coast runs off at this place quite suddenly, and the 
heavy ground swells which were now rolling in from the 
northwest dashed up on the beach in a manner not at 
all calculated to inspire any confidence or desire to go 
among them. This, it appeared, was the only place 
where they could land, for here the sea broke directly on 
the beach with one huge breaker ; while farther along, 
both north and south, where the water was shoal, the 
breakers extended out a great way, making it pretty 
certain, if the first one was passed in safety, that the ca- 
noe would be capsized in some of the others before she 
could reach the shore. I asked them what they wanted 
to go ashore there for. I had enough of delay the day 
before, during the bird expedition, and had no wish to 
pass another day idle on the beach ; but it appeared they 
were afraid there was going to be a blow. I had been 
amusing myself by sticking my- paddle through the jelly- 
fish, which were very plenty, and that was a bad omen, 
and a certain sign of wind ; go ashore they would, and 
haul the canoes through the breakers. I was vexed, 
for I did not see how we were going through that heavy- 
surf with only our little paddles ; but I could not help 
myself, so I sat down and braced myself as firmly as I 
could, and, having lit my pipe, waited to see the result. 
The first canoe got ashore in admirable style, but the 
next one, which was the largest, did not succeed so well. 
The Indians were too sure ; and, while laughing at me for 
being afraid, they were caught by a huge roller and pitch- 
ed end over end, sending every thing flying. Men, wom- 
en, and children were swimming for the shore, and mats, 
blankets, paddles, and every thing that could float drift- 
ing round in great confusion. They were all, however, 
hauled out safely on the beach, where they were spread 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 273 

round to dry, while the men hauled up the canoe, to bail 
out the sand and water with which she was filled, and 
get ready for another start. 

It was now our turn ; but Peter and Cletheas, feeling 
a little skittish at the sight of the other canoe, were very 
cautious, and let several waves pass under us without 
attempting to go ashore. At last a huge roller coming 
in, we started on the top of it, and, by paddling with 
all our might, kept on the crest, and were thrown some 
twenty feet up on the beach with the bubbling foam. 
The other Indians who were ashore stood ready to catch 
us as we struck the sand, and ran us up high and dry 
out of the reach of the waves. 

While we were getting ready for another start, Cas- 
lahhan came riding up, bringing the skin of the bear I 
had shot while going up the beach. He said he had 
found her lying just on the edge of the brush into which 
she had run when I shot her. It was a very large and 
fine skin, jet black, and as big as a bullock's hide. This 
skin I placed in the bottom of the canoe, and it made a 
capital seat. 

We now were ready to start, and our progress was 
altogether of a novel character to me. We pushed out 
into the breakers, and then, keeping between the line of 
two seas that had broken on the beach, shoved the canoe 
along through the surf with poles. I was astonished to 
see how dexterous these Indians were, although at first 
I could scarcely keep from being pitched out at every 
time a sea struck us, but soon got used to it ; and we 
pushed on merrily till we reached the Copalis Eiver, 
where we stopped to take breakfast and to wait for the 
others, who could not get along so fast as we did, their 
canoes being large and heavy, and only two men in each, 
all the others, with the women and children, walking down 
the beach, carrying their efiects on their backs, which 

M2 



274 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

they prefer to do, both to lighten the canoes, and to keep 
their things from getting wet. 

We stopped at Copalis an hour or two, and, after get- 
ting rested and refreshed, again started for another jaunt 
through the surf. I asked the boys to go outside the 
breakers, as the water was smooth and there was no wind, 
but they would not, for they were afraid of a blow, but 
there was not the slightest indication of wind from any 
quarter. So on we went, jolting, and tumbling, and roll- 
ing till noon, when we hauled the canoe up and took 
some dinner. We had kept a long way ahead of the 
others, and waited for them. During this time a strange 
Indian and a boy came up, the former dragging a fine 
salmon, which he had killed in the surf. This he sold 
me for a couple of charges of powder, and now I had 
plenty of provision. 

As we approached Gray's Harbor we found that the 
water grew smoother, and at last found ourselves going 
through a narrow passage, quite inside, and out of the 
reach of the breakers. The sands at the north entrance 
to Gray's Harbor extend out a great way, and at low 
tide it is a long and very tedious passage round the Point ; 
but fortunately there is this narrow passage I mentioned 
through the sands, which the Indians avail themselves 
of at low water, and which is an excellent and safe place 
to pass through with canoes. 

The banks of this passage were full of quahaug clams, 
and we shortly had a bushel of them. When judging 
that I had enough to make a feast of fat things, we push- 
ed ahead, and arrived in Gray's Harbor just after sun- 
down, and went ashore, where we soon built a fire among 
the drift-logs on the beach, and, by the light of the moon, 
brought our things up from the canoe. The others short- 
ly arrived and joined us, when I borrowed a kettle from 
one of the squaws, and soon had a fine supper cooking 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 275 

for the whole party. There was boiled rice and boiled 
salmon, boiled and roast potatoes, roast salmon, roasted 
crabs and clams, cold raccoon, dried salmon, seal oil and 
whale oil, to say nothing of hard bread, a pudding made 
from boiled flour, and tea made from a species of huckle- 
berry leaves. 

Pepper and salt were of no use to this party, but the 
tea and the savages were sweetened up by the applica- 
tion of some five or six pounds of sugar, which my friend 
Sam had kindly bestowed on me when he divided the 
provisions. After we had eaten, we amused ourselves 
by setting Pohks dancing till he was tired, when we all 
went to sleep among the logs on the beach. It was tru- 
ly a magnificent night ; not a cloud was to be seen, and 
the moon and stars shone out with a peculiarly brilliant 
light, while the screaming of the gulls and plover made 
it appear almost like day. I awoke about three o'clock 
in the morning, just as day began to dawn. The moon 
was still looking down with her great, broad face ; but 
I had no time for reveries or poetic imaginings, for the 
tide had now nearly reached our sleeping quarters, hav- 
ing come up unusually high ; and in a few minutes more 
a swash of the sea put out the remains of our watch-fire, 
and waked up all hands ; and by the time it was begin- 
ning, to ebb, we were all ready for a start. The Indians 
from Queniult, having only to cross the Bay, where their 
friends resided, now left us ; and soon after we left for 
the mouth of the Bay. We passed close by the sand 
island where the schooner Willemantic was wrecked; 
but she had been got ofi" the preceding summer. The 
island is nothing more than a bank of sand at the en^ 
trance to the harbor, bare at all times of tide, and cov- 
ered with logs and driftwood. 

As we neared Armstrong's Point, we saw Tleyuk, Carr- 
cowan's son, coming down the beach on horseback. He 



276 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

advised Cletheas and Peter to go outside of the break- 
ers, as the weather was so calm. This movement I con- 
curred in, for I was tired of pounding along through the 
breakers ; accordingly, we watched an opportunity, and 
went through the surf clear outside of all. 

By this time the sun had risen, and the prospect was 
very fine. We paddled off a mile from the beach, and 
had a fine view of Mount Olympus, near Puget Sound, 
the Cathlapoodle Mountains, Mount St. Helen's, the Sad- 
dle-back Mountain, and Cape Disappointment. The 
summits of the three first were white with snow, and, 
contrasting with the dark green foliage of the forests of 
spruce and fir, looked magnificently. 

A slight breeze now springing up, we hoisted a blank- 
et for a sail, and then sat down to breakfast on the re- 
mains of our last night's supper. 

As the sun got up in the heavens, the breeze died 
away, and at last fell dead calm, leaving us no other al- 
ternative but to take to our paddles. We took our time, 
and went along leisurely, as the sun was very warm, 
and, reflecting from the glassy surface of the water, made 
it very uncomfortable. 

About noon we crossed the bar. The water was as 
smooth as oil, with no appearance of any breakers except 
directly on the beach ; and in an hour more we landed 
safe and sound at nay house on the Querquelin. 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATEK BAY. 277 



CHAPTER XYI. 

Arrival of Winant and Roberts. — An Election. — Our first Justice, 
Squire Champ. — Big Charley. — First Court in the Bay. — Constable 
Charley makes an An-est. — A Trial, and a celebrated Verdict. — 
Another Arrest and Trial. — Joe locked up in a Hen-house. — First 
Vessel built in the Bay. — Bruce Company. — Uncle Ned. — Captain 
John Morgan. — Monument of Oyster Shells to Eussell. — Hay-e-mar. 
— A Trip up the Whil-a-pah for Salmon. — Walter's Point. — Sam 
Woodward's Claim. — Roaring Bill. — Ancient Mariners. — Old ChiUe- 
wit. — Xight Fishing. — Lively Time. — Start for Home. — Shoot a 
Lynx. — Otter Shooting. — Charley sees the Memelose or dead Folks. 
— Singular Occurrence. — ^We get rid of Charley. — First Trail from 
the Cowlitz. — Lime-kiln for burning Shells. 

I WENT down the beach the next day to see my friends, 
Winant and Eoberts, and learned from them that they 
were in a very indifferent state of health. It appeared 
that, after they left Queniult, they got along very well 
till they reached the north side of Shoal-water Bay, and 
then they had to wait, as there was no canoe. For two 
days did they keep up signal-fires, and at last, just as 
they had finished their last meal, they managed to at- 
tract the attention of their firiends on the opposite side 
of the Bay, who went over in a boat and took them off. 

They were particularly chagrined to think that, during 
the time they were amusing themselves by making bon- 
fires, very much against their will, an election was tak- 
ing place which they were very anxious to attend. 

We had reached that point in the history of the Ter- 
ritory when we were called upon to elect our officers for 
the Legislature and the county. Now, this being looked 
upon by the oystermen as a farce (for what did we want 
of laws? we were a law unto ourselves), every one 
seemed inclined to treat it as such. So, among other 



278 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

officers, they had elected John W. Champ as justice of 
the peace, and Charles W. Denter as constable. 

Now Champ was a perfect character to serve as a 
justice. He had originally emigrated from Vermont to 
Wisconsin, but when, the memory of the oldest inhab- 
itant did not pretend to approach, for the oldest inhab- 
itant was none other than Champ himself, and he de- 
clared that he was too young to remember much. He 
had lived many years in Wisconsin, and when the emi- 
gration had first commenced to cross the Rocky Mount- 
ains, he had joined a party bound to Oregon, where he 
resided several years, and finally settled in Shoal-water 
Bay. At this period Champ was about sixty-five years 
old, tall, wiry, and muscular, with an iron constitution, 
that had withstood the rough-and-tumble of a long bor- 
der life. Like all the rest of the frontier people, he was 
fond of Old Rye, and, when under its influence, was a 
noisy and rough customer ; but when sober, was a sen- 
sible, common-sense, kind-hearted old fellow, ready at 
all times to do a good turn or lend a helping hand. 

The constable, or Big Charley, as we used to call him, 
was a good-natured, lazy fellow, who, from driving logs 
on the Penobscot River, in the State of Maine, had ship- 
ped on board a whaler, and, like some old stray spar or 
loose kelp, had been washed up into the Bay without 
exactly knowing when, where, or how. Charley was an 
excellent woodsman, and could handle an axe or build a 
log house with the best man in the Bay. But Charley 
preferred his ease and a bottle of whisky to any thing 
else. We thought the justice and constable would do 
very well. We had been very peaceable, having no law- 
suits or bickerings. If any of the boys got vexed with 
each other, they would step out and settle the difficulty 
with a fist-fight, and then the trouble was over. But, 
now that we had a 'squire, every one seemed anxious 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 279 

to bring liim some business, and it was not long before 
the justice held his first court in Shoal- water Bay. 

A fellow that Russell had hired to take charge of his 
affairs while he himself should go to California, had been 
found to have stolen a small sum of money from Rus- 
sell. This information was soon known among the set- 
tlers, but there was neither proof nor any one to prose- 
cute. At length the sheriff, who was always ready for 
a joke, partly in sport and partly in earnest, wrote a 
notice to the thief that he must leave the Bay or he 
would be lynched. This paper was then taken to Champ 
(who, although he could sign his name, could not see to 
read very well, having smashed his spectacles on a 
frolic), and he was requested to sign the " warrant for 
arrest." Champ, supposing it made out in due form (for 
the sheriff was a scholar), signed his name, and, calling 
up Big Charley, ordered him to proceed at once and 
arrest the offender, and have him up for examination. 
Charley accordingly went to where the fellow was re- 
siding, some two miles distant, and, being apprehensive 
that he should meet with resistance, adopted the follow- 
ing unique method of arrest : Walking in where the chap 
was sitting, he asked him very coolly for something to 
drink. Bowman (for that was the man's name) replied 
that he had nothing. Well, says Charley, Old Champ 
has just got a demijohn of first-rate whisky: s'pose we 
walk down there and get some. The other, nothing 
loth, consented, and the pair walked down to the squire's. 
The boys began to collect, and at last the squire, who 
had been out feeding his chickens and wetting his whis- 
tle, came in and took a seat. 

" Order in the court !" said he ; then, facing the pris- 
oner, he addressed him thus : 

" Well, this is a pretty how-d'ye-do ; why, what have 
you been about, hey ?" 



280 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

"What have I been about?" asked Bowman, with sur- 
prise; "nothing in particular, that I know of; where's 
your whisky, squire ?" 

"Where's my whisky?" says the squire, now getting 
into a rage ; " where's my whisky ? Don't you know 
you're 'rested ? and do you think to throw contempt 
into my court by asking for whisky ?" 

" I did not know," replied the other, " that I was ar- 
rested ; pray what is the charge ?" 

" Why, you big loafer," said Champ to the constable, 
" didn't you show that paper to Bowman ?" 

"Yes," growled Charley, "I did." 

"I never saw it, "says Bowman: "let me have it now." 

Champ then, after expressing his disgust at Charley for 
not attending to his business in a legal manner, ordered 
him forthwith to arrest Bowman, and show him the war- 
rant. Charley then produced the paper, and arrested 
the man in the name of the United States. Bowman 
read it, and remarked that it was more of a lynch-law 
notice than a warrant, and then inquired of what he was 
accused. 

"What are you 'cused of?" said Champ, with the 
greatest contempt for the supposed sham ignorance of 
the prisoner ; " why, you are 'cused of stealing Mr. Kus- 
sell's money." 

*' I should like to know who accuses me, and who are 
the witnesses against me," said Bowman, who now be- 
gan to think that something serious was to happen. 

" See here. Bowman," says the 'squire, " I don't want 
any witnesses ; and as for who accuses you, why, I ac- 
cuse you, and every body on the beach accuses you, and 
you know you are guilty as well as I do : there is no 
use of wasting time over this matter. I am bound to 
sentence you, and my sentence is that you leave the Bay 
in twenty-four hours, or receive fifty lashes if you are 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 281 

here after that time. And now, Charley, do you take 
charge of the prisoner : treat him well, but if you let 
him escape we will tie you up in his stead." 

Some one here remarked that Charley must have a 
hard show of it; but the 'squire replied, "Well, well, 
you know what I mean. I want that fellow out of the 
Bay, and I don't want Charley to let him go, to be 
prowling about this neighborhood any longer." 

The next morning a schooner arrived from San Fran- 
cisco, bringing Russell, who was soon made acquainted 
with the aftair, and Champ ordered a new trial to take 
place, adding that, if Eussell desired, they would tie up 
the offender and give him a few dozen by way of remem- 
brance. But Bussell had no desire to punish the fel- 
low any more; so the boys, having had their fun, as 
they called it, collected some money, which they gave to 
Bowman to pay his expenses to Astoria, and started him 
off, and he was seen no more. 

Thus ended the first court ever held in Shoal-water 
Bay, Chehalis County, Washington Territory. It was 
begun in a joke, but the ends of justice were as well or 
better satisfied than if a dozen lawyers had been about 
to mystify the 'squire. 

The next case of theft that occurred the oystermen 
tried themselves, not caring to trust to Champ. A mis- 
erable loafer that had found his way into the Bay, and 
who was known by the name of Joe, was caught in the 
act of stealing a pair of boots from the grocery store ; 
and he was also accused by Captain Hillyer of setting 
his boat adrift. I happened to be walking down the 
beach just as the people had Joe into the store to try 
him, and was invited to join. After the charges were 
made, Joe acknowledged stealing the boots, but said he 
knew nothing about the boat. He was urged to confess, 
but he persisted in his statement. 



282 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

Dick Hillyer then proposed that Joe be tied up, and 
his back warmed with a rope's end to freshen up his 
memory ; and we were each requested to give our views 
on the case. 

Now it so happened that the very night previous, old 
Toke had started off from his lodge in a fit of rage, and 
Suis supposed he had crossed the Bay to another lodge 
he had at Toke's Point, recently built ; and as I had 
passed down the beach, I found all the boats and canoes 
safe except that one of Hillyer's ; so I concluded Toke, 
and not Joe, was the thief. I therefore suggested that 
we put Joe into Champ's hen-house, and secure him till 
some one should cross the Bay and see whether Toke 
had the boat or not. 

Now Champ's hen-house was not a slim affair, built of 
slats, as its name might import, but was a solid log 
house, as strong as a fort. 

Joe begged that he might be put there till he could 
prove himself innocent of the boat charge. He was ac- 
cordingly incarcerated among the poultry, and left to his 
own reflections. 

That afternoon Toke returned, bringing back the boat 
and demanding pay, which he received from Dick in the 
shape of two dozen lashes, well laid on with a piece of 
ratlin-stiiff, and an injunction for the future to let the 
white men's property alone. 

Dick then went to liberate Joe, and found him very 
quietly engaged in sucking eggs. This new felony en- 
raged Squire Champ, who was for having Joe immedi- 
ately flogged ; but the people, thinking he had been pun- 
ished enough, put him on board a boat bound to the 
portage, and started him out of the Bay, as they had 
done Bowman. So we freed ourselves of two thieves. 

During this year Captain Hillyer built and launched 
the schooner Elsie, a little craft of twenty tons. She 



i 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 2fi3 

was the first vessel ever built in the Bay, and was 
launched on the 12th day of September, 1854. She was 
the second vessel owned in the Bay, the first one, the 
Mary Taylor, having been purchased several months pre- 
vious by the Bruce Company, who used her as a regular 
packet to carry oysters to San Francisco. 

This Bruce Company, consisting of Winant, Hanson, 
Morgan, and ^Milward, had arrived in the Bay soon aft- 
er Captain Fieldsted, in 1851, in the schooner Bobert 
Bruce, which was set fire to by the cook and burned to 
the water's edge. The Bruce boys, as they were then 
called, went to work, and soon earned enough to buy the 
schooner Mary Taylor, which was placed under the com- 
mand of one of their number. Captain Alexander Han- 
son, familiarly known as Uncle Ned. 

Captain Hanson was a North of Europe man, either 
a Dane or a Swede, a most excellent sailor, and a gen- 
eral favorite with every one in the Bay. Every body 
liked Uncle Ned, who, with his peculiarities, was really 
a very worthy man. 

The Bruce Company, having been fortunate, found 
themselves able the following season to purchase anoth- 
er fine schooner, called the Equity, which was command- 
ed by Captain John Morgan, another of the Bruce Com- 
pany. Morgan was the real representative of that class 
of our citizens, the American sailor. An excellent nav- 
igator and seaman, frank, generous, and brave, he, with, 
the rest of his company, Hanson, Mark and Sam Wi- 
nant, and Dick Milward, had gained a reputation for 
generous hospitality that will ever be remembered by the 
early settlers in the Bay. Kussell, who had been large- 
ly engaged in the oyster trade, and who had made ar- 
rangements to conduct the business still more extensive- 
ly, had met with reverses which obliged him to relin- 
quish his plans. His house, too, like that of the Bruce 



284 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

bojrs, was always open ; his latch-string was never pull- 
ed in ; and though he had peculiar ways, which rendered 
him somewhat unpopular, still he was a generous feUow 
at heart, and always exerted himself for the welfare of 
those in the Bay. He had a sort of monomania for be- 
ing called captain, and thinking himself the first discov- 
erer and settler in the Bay. But, as he was actually the 
first one who introduced oysters into the market of San 
Francisco, he will be entitled to receive what the Cali- 
fornia papers proposed to be given to the first who should 
bring oysters to their state, " a monument of oyster- 
shells to his memory." 

During the summer Captain Purrington and myself 
had lived alone, as Toke's people had gone to live in 
then' lodge near the house of Mr. Barrows, near Toke's 
Point. Toward fall, a young Indian from Chenook, 
named Hay- e- mar, and by the whites called Charley, 
came and stopped with us. He was smart, active, in- 
telligent, a good carpenter and hunter, and capable of 
being very useful, but he was generally disliked by both 
whites and Indians. He had learned aU sorts of sleight- 
of-hand tricks, with which he would astonish the young 
Indians, and was regarded by the old ones as a sort of a 
devil. He was continually at his pranks, and had, among 
other performances, transferred a chest of carpenters' 
tools, belonging to a man at Point Ellice, on the Colum- 
bia, to Astoria, where, on offering them for sale, he was 
detected, and fled to Shoal-water Bay, and happening to 
land at my place, concluded to remain, although I told 
him he was not wanted. But he went to work with an 
axe, and did great execution among the trees, and soon 
had so fine a pile of firewood that the captain proposed 
he should remain and help us. Charley was very well 
satisfied, and, putting himself on his good behavior, kept 
us amused with his odd tricks and stories, and soon 
gave us evidence of his hunting and fishing qualities. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 285 

One day he came home with the report that salmon 
had commenced running up the Whil-a-pah River, and 
he proposed going with me the next day to get some. I 
had not been up that river before, and was quite willing 
to start. It was about the first of October, and, although 
the days were warm and pleasant, the nights were quite 
chilly and long. The next morning, after breakfast, we 
fitted ourselves for the expedition, and started in my 
small canoe, Charley in the stern to steer, and I with 
my gun in the bow. We soon reached the mouth of 
the river, where we found innumerable flocks of curlew 
and plover, but could not get near enough for a shot, 
and, having a fair but light wind, kept on our course. 

The Whil-a-pah, at its mouth, runs through wide prai- 
ries, or tide-lands, as they are called, which are cut up 
in every direction by creeks and ditches, rendering them 
difficult of cultivation. A few miles up, the mountains 
come to the brink of the river, which is here reduced to 
a narrow pass, called the Narrows, or Walter's Point, 
from Walter Lynde having taken a claim and built a cot- 
tage there. A little farther up we passed the claim and 
clearing of Captain John Yail, who had erected a house 
under the shade of some fine large maple-trees, and had 
a nice farm cleared and planted. The river, although 
narrower at this place, was quite deep, and was naviga- 
ble for some miles farther up for large vessels. 

The next house and claim was that of Samuel Wood- 
ward, some six or eight miles distant from Captain Vail's. 
Here was another evidence of industry and intelligence 
well applied. Mr. Woodward had a nice house built, and 
a most excellent farm, and, with his young wife, was 
most comfortably settled, and enjoying the respect and 
confidence of the whole community. On we went, and 
shortly passed the farm and house of Henry Whitcomb, 
who, with Sam Woodward, were the first settlers on the 



286 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

river. Next was the claim of William Gushing, or, as 
he was called, "Roaring Bill;" for, as he was some- 
what deaf, he spoke in an unusually loud tone of voice. 
The next claims above were those of two old salts. Cap- 
tains Crocker and Gardiner. Captain Gardiner, how- 
ever, had gone to San Francisco, again preferring " a life 
on the ocean wave" to a " way across the mountains," 
which it certainly was, to get to his claim by any means 
except the river. 

Above the residence of the ancient mariners was still 
another farm, that of Mark and Joe Bullard, but we did 
not go so far. 

It was nearly night when we hauled up our canoe at 
an Indian lodge, near Captain Crocker's landing. This 
was occupied by old Chillewit, a famous Indian doctor, 
and his brother Whilmarlan, who had with him two chil- 
dren, a little boy and girl, whose mother was dead, and 
the father was taking care of them with all the affection- 
ate tenderness which these Indians always show toward 
their children. There was no one in the lodge but ChU- 
lewit and the two children, and a slave girl named Mary. 
The old doctor did not seem at all gratified at seeing 
Charley, although he was a relative, for he was evident- 
ly afraid of some of his pranks. However, he told Mary 
to give us some supper of boiled salmon, and soon after 
we lay down to sleep. 

I was quite tired with my trip, and expected, of course, 
to sleep all night and get rested, but Mr. Charley had no 
such idea. Whether he felt angry with old Chillewit or 
not I did not know, but he evidently intended to leave 
at once, and not remain for three or four days, as we had 
intended. About midnight, as near as I could determ- 
ine, he roused me up, and said it was time to go fishing. 
It was intensely dark, as the sky was overcast with 
clouds, and the river being narrow at this place, the 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 287 

great fir-trees cast a still deeper gloom upon the water. 
In fact, I could not discern my hand before my face ; I 
was entirely blind, to all intents and purposes. Still, 
Charley insisted that he could see well enough, and 
guided me into the canoe, with instructions to keep in the 
stream, while he sat in the bow to hook the fish. This 
was all very well to talk about, provided I could see ; 
but as, to my blindness, he added the injunction not to 
speak a word for fear of scaring the fish, I could not ask 
which way to go. So we floated along with the current 
at a pretty rapid pace and in a very uncertain manner. 

All at once I received a blow in the face that nearly 
knocked me overboard, and caused a most brilliant dis- 
play of pyrotechnics to appear before my disordered 
vision. 

"Look out I" says Charley. "Look out!" said I; 
" why, I am nearly knocked out. Why did you not 
speak before ? What was that hit me just now ?" "Only 
the limb of a tree we just went under," said he. He 
then promised to speak when we were about to run afoul 
of any more snags, and we kept on, till, coming to some 
deep water, he began to find and catch the fish. But 
sitting still in the canoe had chilled me through, and the 
fish, splashing and thrashing about, had covered me with 
blood, and water, and slime, and I told Charley I would 
not remain any longer for all the salmon in the river. 
He had by that time caught six splendid ones ; and, be- 
ing quite as much chilled as I was, he consented to pad- 
dle back to the lodge, where I hoped to get a nap. But 
he had no idea of such a move. He merely brought our 
blankets and things down, and, having stowed them, 
shoved off. His excuse was that we should save the 
! tide at the mouth of the river ; but I think the real truth 
i was his being vexed with old Chillewit, for I never knew 
an Lidian before make quite so much dispatch. 



288 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

So down the river we started, Charley in the bow 
with the gun to look out for game and to fend off from 
snags, for it was still dark. 

At last the daylight appeared, and I could make out 
the course, although I was nearly asleep all the time. 
Directly I was roused by the report of the gun and a 
splash in the water. I then found that, while I had been 
dozing, Charley had spied out a lynx sitting on a log, 
and, cautiously shoving the canoe within range, had shot 
the creature directly between the eyes. This was quite 
a prize, as the Indians consider the lynx skin valuable 
for its medical properties. 

I was now wide awake, and, as the sun got up over 
the tops of the trees, we felt quite comfortable. In a 
short time we spied some otters, and made out to get 
two of them, and considered ourselves quite lucky, hav- 
ing secured six salmon, one lynx, and two otters for our 
night's work. After washing ourselves, and making a 
breakfast on some bread and cold salt pork we had 
brought with us the day before, we took to our paddles, 
and plied them so effectually that we were soon at the 
mouth of the river, when, taking a fine wind, we made 
sail, and arrived home at noon, having been absent but a 
littl-e over twenty-four hours. 

We were very well satisfied with this specimen of 
Charley's services, and allowed him to loaf round a lit- 
tle — a privilege he took such advantage of that he soon 
became a nuisance. 

We tried every method to get rid of him, but to no 
purpose, for we could not drive him out of doors, he was 
such a comical chap. But his own superstition at last 
induced him to leave. He was possessed of the power 
of seeing the spirits of the dead, and, if he had not been 
so full of mischiefj would have been considered a great 
doctor. One night, after we had gone to bed, as Char- 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 289 

ley was lying before the fire, which was burning bright- 
ly, I noticed our two dogs, which had hid themselves 
under the captain's bed, come out into the floor, jumping 
and wagging their tails as if they were rejoiced at meet- 
ing some one. I was up in an instant and drove them 
out of the house, as their services in keeping watch out- 
side were of more importance than their gambols inside. 
As I closed the door, Charley said, with a sigh, " What 
did you speak for and drive out those dogs ? Did you 
not see the memelose f'' "No," said I; "who were 
they ?" " They were," he said, " Que-a-quim, who had 
died "at Russell's of small-pox, and George, who had died 
at our house during my absence in the spring to Califor- 
nia, and who had been buried, a short distance from the 
house, in a camphor trunk." "What does he say?" 
asked the captain. I explained what Charley said. 
"Ha! ha! ha!" roared the old man; "memelose, hey? 
Well, Charley, what did they tell you?" He replied, 
they had asked him what he was doing there; that it 
was not his land, and they did not want him to stop 
there. 

This information so pleased the captain that he near- 
ly choked himself laughing ; for he had no faith in any 
of these superstitions, and thought to laugh them out of 
the belief. Charley began to get vexed, and asked me 
if I had not seen the dogs jumping up. I told him I 
had. "Well," said he, "the dogs can see the memelose^ 
and they were jumping round because they were so glad 
to see their old friends again." I asked the old man not 
to laugh any more, as it would do no good to make fun 
of Charley, but I would use this visitation of the mem- 
elose as a means to get rid of him in a quiet manner, 
and without giving him offense. 

Fortunately, the next day two Indians came from 
Chenook, to whom I related my desires, and they made 

N 



290 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

Cliaiiej believe that it was necessary for him to leave, 
which he did that very day. 

During the month of July a party came down the 
E-iver Whil-a-pah, consisting of Messrs. Warbous, Shaf- 
fer, Geizey, Roundtree, Pearsall, and Knight. They had 
come through from the Cowlitz trail to examine the land, 
and discover if it was of such a nature as to induce emi- 
gration, as Mr. Geizey was looking round as agent for a 
company of farmers, who had emigrated from Pennsyl- 
vania to Wisconsin, and, becoming dissatisfied, had sent 
him to look out a suitable place for them to settle either 
in Washington or Oregon Territories, and, having vis- 
ited all the most favorable localities, had at last come 
through with this party. He reported that he was so 
well pleased with the land on the Whil-a-pah that he 
should send for his friends and settle on the prairie-lands, 
near Messrs. Bullard and Captain Crocker.* 

After remaining in the Bay a few days, they returned 
on the 17th, and were accompanied by some of the set- 
tlers, Seth Bullard, Henry Woodward, Roaring Bill, Doc- 
tor Cooper, and Mr. Russell. This was the first trail 
ever opened by the whites between the Bay and the 
Cowlitz trail. Dr. Cooper and Mr. Russell proceeded 
on to Olympia, while the others returned by the same 
trail to finish blazing it out. It is a rough and crooked 
path at best, but will answer till a better road is made, 
which will probably be done before long, as the govern- 
ment are aware of the necessity of making a military 
road from Olympia, the seat of government, to Shoal- 

* Mr. Geizey shortly afterward introduced the whole of his party of 
emigrants, numbering, as I was informed, some forty families, who have 
now one of the most flourishing settlements in Washington Territory, 
situated on or near the Beaufort, or, as it is pronounced, Buffaw Prai- 
rie, in the valley of the Whil-a-pah Eiver, and can be reached either 
from Shoal-water Bay by the river, or from the Columbia and interior 
of the Territory by the Cowlitz trail. 



I 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 291 

water Bay, and thence to the Columbia, to enable troops 
to communicate with the military road from Astoria to 
Salem, the capital of Oregon. When a road is built, so 
as to open a communication with the interior of Wash- 
ington Territory, it will show some excellent farming- 
country, which at present lies uncultivated, owing to the 
difficulty of reaching it by any trails now made. 

I had amused myself during the summer by building 
a kiln out of the clay blocks of the cliffs for burning the 
shells around our premises into lime, and, after complet- 
ing it, tried it for the first time just after Charley left, 
and found that the shells made a very white and strong 
lime ; but there not being any use for lime in the Bay, 
and the rainy season coming on shortly, I gave up the 
business till a more favorable time. The shell of the 
oyster, being thin, did not answer very well, as there 
was too much sand and mud with them in proportion to 
the lime they yielded ; but the clolum, or hard-shell clam, 
has a very thick, solid shell, which yields a most excel- 
lent quality of pure white lime, and is easily burned. 
The absence of limestone in the vicinity will eventually 
make the heaps and mounds of shells around the Bay of 
value to the settlers. 



292 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OK, 



CHAPTER XVII. 

County Line. — Jury Duty. — United States Court at Chenook. — The 
Court-house. — Grand Jury. — Trial of Lamley for killing an Indian. 
— Grand Jury Eoom very Fishy. — Witnesses. — Captain Johnson. — 
His funny Address to the Court. — He throws himself on the Mercy 
of the Court. — Captain Scarborough. — Bill Martindill. — The Cap- 
tain's Ad\dce to Bill. — The District Attorney and his Address. — 
The Counsel for the Defense quotes from the " Arabian Nights." — 
He gains the Case. — Captain Johnson's Vinegar Speculation. — 
Johnson's Death. — Death of Captain Scarborough. — Fidelity of an' 
Indian Squaw. — Return home. — Sharp Work in a Canoe. — ^Adven- 
ture with Caslahhan. 

The place where we had built our house was on what 
John Bunyan would call " debatable ground," as it was 
claimed by the two counties of Pacific and Chehalis. I 
was satisfied that it was in Chehalis County, but as the 
line had not been run, it was a subject of constant de- 
bate every time there was any election or any jury duty 
to perform ; and, as this last business is one that most 
people like to get rid of, it was found quite convenient 
for our immediate neighborhood to be in either county 
we chose. 

As the fall term of the United States District Court 
approached, the sheriff of Pacific County came over and 
notified us all to appear, either as grand or petit jurors. 
I was exempt by virtue of holding an office ; but, as there 
was a great scarcity of people in the county, I concluded 
I would go, and accordingly, with Baldt, who had also 
been chosen, started in my little canoe for Wilson's 
house, at M'Carty's portage. It was late in the fall, 
and the little canoe was hardly the thing to cross the 
Bay in, but the weather being fine, we ventured to try, 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 293 

as we intended keeping close in-shore as far as we could. 
We w^ere very fortunate, and arrived at the portage early 
enough to cross over to M'Carty's house by sundown. 
We found Mac at home, and were most hospitably 
received ; and, after a good supper and a pipe, with a 
plenty of anecdotes from Mac, we turned in by the fire 
and had a good sleep. Mac was building a new house, 
his old one and all his winter provision, with every thing 
movable he possessed, having been burned down the pre- 
vious winter, and he was now living in an Indian house 
he had hastily put up till his new one should be com- 
pleted. He said he had a pretty hard summer's work 
to scrape together enough for the coming winter. 

The next morning he carried us down to the landing 
at Dawson's, where, bidding him good morning, we start- 
ed off to walk over Chenook beach. As the court was 
to commence the next day, we found the little village 
crowded, and every one who had any business already - 
there to secure accommodations. The first night Baldt 
and myself slept in the bowling-alley, and were not very 
well pleased with our quarters, but we did pretty well 
considering all things, and, having eaten a hearty break- 
fast, were prepared to enter on our duty as jurors. 

The building selected as a court-house was a small 
one-story affair, measuring about tw^elve feet by fifteen, 
or somewhere near that ; at all events, it was so circum- 
scribed in its limits that, when the jury were seated, 
there was barely room left for the judge, clerk of the 
court, and counsel, while the sheriff had to keep himself 
standing in the doorway. The outsiders could neither 
see nor hear till some one suggested that a few boards 
be knocked off the other end of the house, which was 
soon done, and served the purpose admirably. 

The grand jury were then called in and sworn, and 
the usual forms gone through. There was nothing of 



294 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OE, 

importance on hand except a case of homicide, and the 
judge charged particularly on that point. It was a 
charge against a resident of Chenook named Lamley, 
who was well known to us all, and who had been the 
former sheriff. It appeared that Lamley, with other 
white men, had been to the cranberry marshes at Shoal- 
water Bay to trade with the Indians for cranberries, as 
was the usual custom every fall. He had taken a house 
there to trade in, but took his meals at another house a 
short distance off. One day, while going to his dinner, 
a drunken Indian came up with a club and insisted on 
going in. Lamley pushed him away several times, till 
at last the Indian made at him with his club. This Lam- 
ley knocked out of his hand, and, seizing hold of a pad- 
dle that was standing beside the door, he again pushed 
away the Indian, who turned partly round, when Lam- 
ley struck him with the paddle. Unfortunately, the edge 
of the paddle hit the fellow on the neck, just where the 
spinal column joins the skull, and killed him instantly. 
Any other person would probably have done as Lamley 
did — that is, have struck the Indian with the first stick 
he could have got hold of, though perhaps with no such 
fatal results. 

The counsel for the defense was a former judge of the 
same court, and considered one of the most able lawyers 
in the Territory. The prosecuting attorney was a youn- 
ger brother of his, who was now to make his first attempt 
to manage a criminal prosecution. 

The grand jury, having been duly instructed, were 
marched into old M'Carty's zinc house near by, as that 
was the only unoccupied place in town. There were but 
two rooms in this house, one of which contained several 
hogsheads of salt salmon, and all of M'Carty's nets and 
fishing-gear, and had certainly an "ancient and a fish- 
like" perfume. Although every one of us were well ac- 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 295 

quainted with the smell of salmon, from partakmg of it 
every day boiled with potatoes, yet this was too much 
of a good thing ; but there was no help for it, so we pro- 
ceeded to business. JS^ow a grand jury are presumed to 
do their business in a very quiet manner, and, to further 
the ends of justice, a culprit must not know that there is 
any bill against him till it is popped in his face by the 
sheriff; but old !Mac's zinc house was just as sonorous 
as a drum, and, for all purposes of secrecy, we had bet- 
ter have held our deliberations on the logs of Chenook 
beach than where we were. The outsiders either crawl- 
ed under the house or stood outside, where they could 
hear perfectly well what was going on ; and if any one 
was a little deaf, all he had to do was to get a nail and 
a stone and punch some holes through the zinc, then 
clap his ear to the aperture and become perfectly cogni- 
zant of all our proceedings. And, in addition to this pub- 
licity, when the petit jury were called, the challenge ex- 
hausted all the people present, and they were obliged to 
take nine of the grand jury to serve as petit jurors. 

First we had to examine a lot of Indians, and the dis- 
trict attorney proceeded to explain to them the nature 
of an oath, which they pretended to understand, except 
Yancumux, who stated that they neither knew or cared 
any thing about the white man's God, although they had 
heard the priest tell about him. At this crisis, one of 
the jurors from Pacific City, who was a little merry, ask- 
ed the counsel if he knew that we were the grand jury, 
and that he was the United States District Attorney. 
"Yes," said the squire, looking somewhat astonished; 
" what of it ?" " Oh, nothing, only this : the judge told 
us, when we wanted advice, we must call on you. Now 
we don't want any of your advice at present, and I move 
that you retire, and when we want you we'll send for 
you." This speech made some fun ; but we soon set- 



296 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

tied the affair by choosing one of our number, William 
M'Gunnicle, interpreter. We passed all that day exam- 
ining the Indians, but they did not know so much about 
the matter as we did. 

That night I slept in the jury-room with Baldt ; Cap- 
tain Johnson, another juror, slept in a little bed-room 
adjoining. Johnson was one of those thick-headed, stub- 
born old fellows that, having once made up their mind, 
can never be turned. He had, however, from some 
cause or other, got an idea that I was versed in the law, 
and informed me that he had some matters on his mind 
he wished me to advise him about, and he would do 
just as I would think best. He said that old M'Carty, 
or, as he called him, Brandy wine, and himself were old 
friends, and that he had loaned Brandy wine some money, 
and he could not get it, and he meant "to put him 
through all the courts of law." I was aware of this fact, 
as M'Carty had told me, when I passed the night at his 
house, of Johnson's threats to sue him, which made him 
afraid to come with us to Chenook. 

"Captain Johnson," said I, "have you ever made a 
demand on M'Carty ?" " Yes, I have." " Did he re- 
fuse to pay you?" "No, he didn't exactly refuse; he 
said he couldn't pay, as he had no money." "Well, 
captain, do you think he would pay you if he had the 
means?" "Oh yes, I know he would; he don't mean 
to shirk his debts." " Now, Captain Johnson," I added, 
"you know very well that Brandywine has lost every 
thing he had by that fire last winter, and he can't pay 
you. You are not in want of money. Give Mac one 
year to pay the amount, take his note and a mortgage 
on the new house, and talk no more about sueing him, 
for if you do you will lose your debt." Johnson thanked 
me for my advice, and I had the satisfaction of saving 
two old friends from a quarrel. But there was another 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 297 

question that I advised him upon which he would not 
follow, and was quite vexed afterward that he had not. 
He had learned that an indictment was against him for 
giving liquor to an Indian, and said that it was true, and 
he meant to go into court the next morning, and plead 
guilty, and throw himself on the mercy of the court, and 
expected the judge would let him off with a line. I ad- 
vised him to let the matter rest till the court called it 
up, for it was an offense against a law of Congress, in 
which the fine was five hundred dollars, and the judge 
had no discretion in the case; and just so sure as he plead 
guilty, just so sure he would be fined. Both Baldt and 
myself tried to convince the old fellow, but it was no 
use : he knew better. So the next morning, when the 
jury went into court, up steps old Johnson to the judge 
and remarked, " Please your honor, I understand there 
is an indictment against me for selling liquor to an In- 
dian. Well, your honor. I plead guilty, and throw my- 
self on the mercy of the court." As no one but Baldt 
and myself had the least intimation of the intention of 
Johnson, all were intensely edified, and filled with pro- 
found admiration. 

"Mr. Clerk," says the judge, "read the indictment." 
Dawson, the clerk, gazed at Johnson a minute or two to 
see if he was crazy or not ; but, as he saw no signs of 
mental aberration, he slowly unfolded and read the doc- 
ument. 

The judge then remarked : " Before you plead to this 
indictment, Mr. Johnson, I wish to observe that this 
court has no desire to take any advantage of your igno- 
rance, but the law is one of Congress, and is imperative. 
I wish that it was otherwise, and that the amount of the 
fine was in proportion to the offense ; but I have no dis- 
cretion in the case, and think, before you make your 
plea, that you had better take the advice of counsel." 

N2 



298 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

Several of the old captain's friends here advised with 
him, when he plead not guilty, and was then obliged to 
find sureties to a bond of five hundred dollars. John- 
son was quite crestfallen at this result, and looked for- 
ward to the trial with a great deal of interest ; and when 
it did come off eventually, the principal witness against 
him could not swear whether it was whisky or molas- 
ses, so he got clear. 

But to return to the manslaughter case. Another of 
our jury was old Captain Scarborough, of whom men- 
tion has been made previously. The captain was very 
deaf, and talked loud. He was a great advocate for the 
"majesty of the law," and very bold to speak his mind 
freely on all occasions, but he was respected very much 
by the inhabitants, and his remarks were usually listened 
to with deference. 

The principal, and, in fact, the only witness in the 
case was William Martindill, who had been cabin-boy 
with Captain Scarborough, and had remained with him 
in the employ of the Hudson Bay Company till he had 
risen to the rank of second mate. The old captain was 
in the habit of addressing Bill in the same tone and 
manner as when on board ship, and Bill always com- 
ported himself with the same feeling toward the captain. 

When Bill was called in for examination, he was quite 
tipsy, and pretended not to know any thing of the oc- 
currence. To every question he would reply, " I don't 
know nothin' about it." Captain Scarborough, who was 
leaning forward, with his hand behind his ear, to catch 
the sound of Bill's voice, no sooner fairly comprehended 
that he was talking nonsense, than he grew intensely in- 
dignant. "Bill!" he roared out, "do you know what 
you are about?" "Oh yes, captain," says Bill, "I 
am wide awake." "No you ain't," bawled out the iras- 
cible old captain ; " you're drunk. Go below and get 



THKEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 299 

sober." Then, addressing the jury, he remarked, "Gen- 
tlemen, you see the fellow is drunk ; send him to "bed." 
So Mr. Bill was marched into the bed-room by the sher- 
iiF, and comfortably tucked up. 

After the jury adjourned, the captain and myself 
walked in to see Bill, who had then slept himself sober, 
but very thirsty. 

"Now," says the captain, in his loud tone, " are you 
fairly awake. Bill, and do you know what you have been 
about ? Do you mean to stand up before my face, and 
tell me a parcel of your lies ?" " Oh, captain," says Bill, 
"just you let me have a drink ; my throat is all parched 
up." 

" It will be worse parched in the next world," replied 
the indignant old mariner, "if you don't belay those lies 
of yours, and begin to pay out the truth. Not one drop 
shall you have to drink." 

" Well, but, captain, the squire axes me so many hard 
questions that I don't know what to say ; I'm kuocked 
all aback." " Never you mind the 'squire ; do you tell 
the truth. Your course is laid down straight. Keep 
her full and by, and mind your helm ; keep her steady ; 
for if you go on yawing as you did this morning, first 
falling off your course, and then luffing sharp up in the 
wind till you make all shiver and shake, you may de- 
pend upon it, my lad, you will find yourself ashore be- 
fore you can think. And I can tell you that if you 
touch bottom among these lawyers you will find it will 
take all hands to heave you off again. If they catch 
you foul, they will hang you up without waiting to rig 
a grating. Now I don't want you to say one word to 
me ; but when you go before the jury again, do you just 
tell the truth like a man." 

This excellent though homely advice of the worthy 
old captain was not lost on Bill, and the result was 



300 THE NORTHWEST COAST ; OR, 

that an indictment was found against Lamlej, and the 
case called on for trial. 

When the jury was called and the challenges ex- 
hausted, it was found that there were no more persons 
to draw from. So the two counsel agreed on a com- 
promise, which was, that nine jurors should be selected 
from among the grand jury who had just solemnly ren- 
dered a true bill against the prisoner. However, in a 
new country, old forms can not always be adhered to ; 
but as it is considered that any proposition between con- 
flicting parties "is fair if you only agree to it," the jurors 
were accordingly selected, and the case proceeded. 

This being the first time the district attorney had ever 
addressed a jury on a criminal case, he proceeded to elu- 
cidate the points in a speech of considerable length, com- 
mencing from the American Revolution, and continuing 
his deductions to the time of Washington's death, and 
closing with a beautiful tribute to the memory of the 
Father of his Country. 

This argument had such a direct bearing on the case 
on trial that the counsel for the defense was forced to 
reply to it by quotations from ancient authors, and to 
prove his position by reciting extracts from the Arabian 
Nights' Entertainments, which, although not considered 
so orthodox as Coke and Blackstone, had the effect to 
mystify the prosecuting attorney, who forgot the "order 
of his going," and, beginning at both ends of Iris case, 
broke down in the middle ; and the case being submit- 
ted to the jury, they returned a verdict of not guilty. 

The argument of the two counsel caused the most in- 
tense delight to the court and spectators, and the result 
was just what we all hoped for, and every body was sat- 
isfied. 

That day and night it rained as it only can rain at the 
mouth of the Columbia ; it came down in torrents, and 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 301 

the noise it made, rattling and pouring on the roof of 
M'Carty's zinc house, was equal to a young Niagara. 

During the evening Captain Johnson proposed to me 
another problem for solution. His boys, going to school 
one morning, discovered a barrel lying near the fence at 
Mr. Holman's house, and, having a great curiosity to find 
out the contents, adopted the very original method of 
knocking in one of the heads with an axe lying near by. 
The contents, being vinegar, were, of course, speedily 
swallowed up by the dry sand, over which it poured in a 
promiscuous manner. The owner, after waiting a reason- 
able time without obtaining any redress from Johnson, 
had just confidentially intimated that unless Johnson set- 
tled the matter at once, he would bring the case before 
the court in the morning. Johnson was in a gTeat dilem- 
ma ; his affair in court that day, in regard to the liquor 
business, had made him quite nervous ; and, as he dis- 
liked paying out money very much^ he wanted to try and 
get rid of this vinegar question without being obliged to 
recompense the owner for its loss. "I don't see," said 
he, " why I should be made to pay for my boys' mis- 
chief; in fact, I won't pay a cent. I'll take it through 
all the courts before I will. The boys are but mere lads, 
and they did not mean to do any harm." 

I then suggested that, if any boy should throw stones 
and break his windows, he would be very likely to call 
on the boy's father to pay damages. 

" There ain't any of my neighbors got boys big enough 
to break windows, " said he ; " and if there were, I'd break 
their heads." " Well," I replied, *' would you not make 
their fathers pay for the broken glass ?" " Yes, I would." 
*'Very well; your boys, instead of breaking glass, have 
broke a barrel and spilled the contents, and you are 
obliged to pay for or replace it." " But the owner wants 
me to pay him a dollar and a half a gallon, and I can 
buy the best at Astoria for a dollar." 



302 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OE, 

" Well, jovL see the owner, and, as he is a reasonable 
man, I know he will only ask you what is just and right." 
Johnson did as I advised him, and settled by giving his 
note on short time for thirty gallons vinegar at a dollar 
a gallon ; but when it came due he declared he had been 
cheated in the gauge, so had the barrel regauged, when 
it was found to measure forty gallons, which he was forced 
to pay, very much against his will. 

Poor Johnson ! He was afterward drowned while 
crossing the Columbia in a boat with Mr. John Dawson 
and another, who shared his fate ; and, but a few months 
previous, M'Carty, while returning home from a visit to 
Johnson's, was drowned while crossing the Wallacut Eiv- 
er, and his body was afterward carried by the current 
out to sea, and eventually picked up on the beach to the 
north of the Columbia, almost up to the entrance to 
Shoal-water Bay. Captain Scarborough likewise died 
shortly previous to Johnson, but he died in his own 
house very suddenly. I have before remarked on the 
hostile feeling evinced toward Americans by the former 
employes of the Hudson Bay Company, and here was 
a circumstance to corroborate my assertion. Captain 
Scarborough was known to keep quite a sum of money 
in his house at all times. He charged an old Indian 
servant- worn an, who lived with him, in case of his death, 
on no account to tell a Boston man (American) where 
his money was, but to deliver it either to the Hudson 
Bay Company's agent at Chenook, or to some of their 
people up the river, alleging that the Bostons were very 
bad people, but the King George people were honest and 
good. As soon as it was known that Captain Scarbor- 
ough was dead, the judge of probate, coroner, and oth- 
er county officers proceeded to the house officially ; but 
all their promises or threats were of no avail to obtain 
one word from the old squaw. " If you burn me in the 



THEEE TEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 303 

fire," said she, "I will not tell you; but I will tell a 
King George man.*' And they were actually obliged to 
send up the river and appoint one of the Company's peo- 
ple administrator before the old woman would tell where 
the money was. 

The next day the court adjourned, and, after settling 
with the deputy marshal for our jury fees, we started for 
home. When we had crossed the portage and reached 
the canoe, we were joined by another person, who asked 
a passage down the Bay, which, of course, was granted, 
although Baldt objected on account of the canoe being 
small, and he being unused to a canoe ; but I told him 
it was all right ; so we proceeded down the river, and 
kept close to the eastern shore of the Bay till we reach- 
ed the mouth of the Xasal Eiver, when we took a stiff 
southeast breeze, as much as we could stagger under. 
There was a sharp, short, chopping sea in the channel, but 
we did not discover it till we were directly in the worst, 
and then Baldt was sure we were going to capsize: he 
was tembly frightened. I told him our only hope was 
to keep on and get through as quiet as possible, for if I 
attempted to turn back we would certainly swamp ; and 
he and all of us must sit down in the bottom of the ca- 
noe, and keep as still as possible. I was only afraid of 
breaking the paddle I steered by, when she would be 
sure to broach to and fill. Our situation did not ap- 
pear particularly desirable ; for, while we were in the 
worst of the sea, a boat to the leeward of us capsized and 
drifted into shoal water, where we saw the occupants 
lift her up and put things to rights ; but we did get 
tlirough without taking in one drop of water ; and, when 
fairly out of the swell, Baldt began to regain his courage, 
and was loud in his praises of the little canoe, which, he 
thought, could outlive almost any sea. But the grand 
secret is to know how to manage these canoes. I had 



304 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

been in mine so much that I could handle her as well as 
an Indian ; but if I had felt afraid, or had broken my pad- 
dle while crossing the Nasal, we would have met with as 
bad, if not worse an accident than those in the boat had. 
But we arrived home safe, and a few days after I had 
an adventure with Caslah^han, the one-eyed Indian of 
Gray's Harbor. 

Captain Purrington, having occasion to go to Chenook, 
took the Indians and started, leaving me alone in the 
house. This was common with both of us, and neither 
felt any fear of remaining alone, but always went and 
came as we saw fit. 

The evening after he left, as I was about sitting down 
to my supper, who should come in but Caslah^han. I 
gave him a welcome, and told him to sit up and eat some 
supper with me, for, in fact, I was rather glad to have 
some one to talk to. After we had finished eating we 
lit our pipes and sat down by the fire. I then inquired 
of him what brought him down from Gray's Harbor, and 
where he was going. He simply said he was going to 
Chenook to sell his furs, and, hearing I was alone, he 
called to see me. He was a most repulsive-looking sav- 
age, his one eye glaring with a most demoniac expres- 
sion, and his whole looks bore a very sinister appearance. 
I had heard of some of his exploits at Fort Vancouver, 
where he had been flogged several times for theft, and 
also of his killing two Indians in a canoe not far from 
my house, and I did not wish any thing to do with him ; 
but he had always treated me well, and I had no reason 
to complain. 

He sat a while smoking in silence, and at last said, 
"You must have a stout heart; are you not afraid of 
me ?" " No," said I ; " why should I be afraid of you ? 
We have always been friends, have we not?" "Yes," 
said he ; " but why did you tell Sam to shoot me ?" I 






TIIKEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 305 

was perfectly astonished, and asked him what he meant. 
He replied that the Indians had told him that I was the 
cause of Sam Winant's firing at him when we were about 
crossing Gray's Harbor, and he had come now to settle 
up the business, and in a manner that can be easily im- 
agined, although he did not say how he wished to settle 
it. " But," said he, " they have told me lies ; you nev- 
er told Sam to shoot me, or else you would have felt 
afraid when you saw me coming, and I should have 
seen that you were afraid, and then I should have known 
that you were guilty; but now I know better." I as- 
sured him that I had no ill will against him, and urged 
him to remain all night, which he did, and kept me 
amused till a late hour, telling stories, and, when he left 
the next morning, had the kindness to steal my hatchet, 
as a token he was on friendly and intimate terms. But 
I was glad enough to get off that cheap, for I afterward 
found that he had started to go direct to Chenook ; and 
he called on me after dark, when, if he had so desired, he 
could have killed me, and kept on, and no one would 
have suspected him at all. He still continued to profess 
himself to be my friend, and I suppose he did feel as 
friendly toward me as a person of his savage disposition 
could ; but after that time I took good care to have ei- 
ther a loaded gun or a good knife at hand in the house 
whenever any more of his tribe called on me after dark. 
Winter now coming on, I had little else to do except 
to listen to Indian tales and study into their language ; 
and as the Jargon, or language universally used over the 
Territory, is curious, as tending to show how a language 
can be formed, I shall now give some description of it. 



306 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Language of the Indians. — The Jargon. — Different Methods of spelling 
"Words by Writers. — Difficulty of rightly understanding the Jargon. 
— How a Language can be formed. — Origin of the Indian Language. 
— Remarks of Mr. Squier. — Irish-sounding AYords in the Chehalis 
Tongue. — An amusing Parable. — Views of Mr. Duponceau. — Re- 
marks of Ghddon. — Resemblance between Chehalis and Aztec 
"Words. — ^Facts relative of Indian Journeys south. — Mrs. Ducheney's 
Narrative. — Difficulty of Indians in pronouncing certain Letters. — 
Cause of the chuckling Sound of the Northwest Languages. — Per- 
sons apt to misunderstand Indian Words. — Dislike of Indians to 
learn Enghsh. — Winter Amusements. — Tomhays and the Geese. — 
Arrival of Settlers. — Doctor Johnson. — The Doctor and myself act 
as Lawyers in Champ's Court. — Strong Medicine. — Kohpoh mistaken 
for a 'Coon. — Visit of the Klickatats. — Christmas Dinner on Crow. — 
Baked Skunk. — Fisherman's Pudding. 

The language of the tribes north of the Columbia is a 
guttural sound which to a stranger seems a compound 
of the gruntings of a pig and the clucking of a hen. 
All the tribes of the Territory (some twenty-five) speak 
a language which, though sounding the same to unprac- 
ticed ears, is very different when understood ; and even 
tribes so nearly connected as the Chenooks, Chehalis, 
and Queniults, being only a few miles distant from each 
other, yet members of the one can not understand the 
language of the other. Still, there are individuals of 
each who, from a roving, trading disposition, have become 
familiar with each other's tongue, and can usually make 
themselves understood. The Chehalis language is that 
most usually spoken at present, for the ancient Chenook 
is such a guttural, difficult tongue, that many of the 
young Chenook Indians can not speak it, but have been 
taught by their parents the Chehalis language and the 
Jargon. The Jargon is the medium with which the In- 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 



307 



dians hold intercourse with each other and with the 
whites. 

This Jargon is composed of Chenook, French, and En- 
glish languages, and is supposed hy many to have been 
formed by the Hudson Bay Company for trading pur- 
poses. Such, however, is not the fact. There have been 
constant additions to the Jargon since the advent of the 
Hudson Bay Company, for many of the words now in 
general use in this language are of French and English 
origin; but I think that, among the Coast Indians in par^ 
ticular, the Indian part of the language has been in use 
for years. 

The first mention I have seen made of this Jargon is 
in Meares's voyages in 1788, where, in giving an ac- 
count of a chief named Callicum, who hurt his leg while 
climbing on board ship, and then sucked the blood from 
the wound, Meares states he "licked his lips, and, pat- 
ting his belly, exclaimed Oloosh, cloos/i, or good, good." 
Cloosh, or klose, or close, are all the same, and mean 
good. 

Still later than this, in 1803, Jewett, in his narrative 
of the ship Boston, at Nootka, gives a vocabulary of the 
words in common use among the Nootkans, and from 
which I have selected the following, to compare them 
with the present Chenook dialect or Jargon. 



Nootka. 


Chenook. 


EngUsh. 


Kloots'mah, 


Klooch'man, 


Woman. 


Ta-nas-sis, 


Ta-nas, 


Child, or any thing small. 


Sick-a-min-ny, 


Chink-a-min, 


Iron. 


Ma'mook, 


Ma-mook, 


Work. 


Kom-me-tak, 


Kum-tux, 


Understand. 


Klu-shish 0?-' 
Cloosh, 


Klose or Close, 


Good. 


Ty-ee, 


Ty-ee, 


Chief. 


See-yah'poks, 


Sear'por-tle, 


Cap or hat. 


Klack'ko, 


Klar'koon, 


Good. 


Pow, 


Pow or Po, 


Eeport of a gun or cannon ; a gun. 


Klat'tur-wah, 


Clat'te-wah, 


Go off or go away. 



308 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

The different manner in which the words are spelled 
is no evidence of a difference of meaning ; for no two 
writers of Indian words fully agree as to the proper 
method of spelling. As an instance of this variety, I 
may cite that in the Commissioner's Eeport on Indian 
Affairs,' 1854, page 215, the Cammassa esculenta, or La 
Cammass, as the French call it, is by Governor Ste- 
vens called and spelled Camash. On page 229, Mr. 
Gibbs spells it Kamaas, and Wilkes has it Lackamus. 
Now these all mean one and the same thing. 

There is a river emptying into Shoal- water Bay called 
the MarJioo. This is called by the Chehalis Marh or 
Marhoo, by the Chenooks Ifemarh, and by the whites 
Nemar ; while some of the latter have given it the name 
of Neemy. Now no casual reader would ever suppose 
that Mark or Marhoo and I^eemy were the names of 
the same river ; but it serves to illustrate the different 
impression the sound of words makes on different individ- 
uals. 

So, also, in writing words, Tc and c are used indis- 
criminately by writers, and although they make a word 
look different when written or printed, yet they produce 
in some situations the same sound. For instance, the 
words Cowlitz, Carcowan, Cultus, Cumtux, etc., can be 
and are frequently written Kowlitz, Karkowan, Kultus, 
Kumtux. I think, however, if a rule was adopted to 
spell all words of French or English origin as originally 
spelled, it would be correct ; but by using k it gives a 
word a sort of an Indian appearance, which some writ- 
ers affect. Cammass should not be spelled with a k any 
more than Columbia. 

The Indians are very quick to detect any difference in 
the intonation or method of pronunciation of the whites, 
and sometimes think we speak different languages. An 
Indian asked me one day (while pointing to a cow) what 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATEE BAY. 309 

was tlie name we called that animal. I told him cow. 
He said that he had just asked another white man, and 
he called it a caow, 

Bj this means, different Indians who have been with 
the whites acquire a habit of pronouncing such English 
words as thej pick up in the same style and manner as 
the person from whom they learn them. This causes a 
certain discrepancy in the Jargon, which at first is diffi- 
cult to get over. And, again, each tribe will add some 
local words of their own language, so that while a per- 
son can make himself understood among any of the tribes 
for the purposes of trade, it is difficult to hold a length- 
ened conversation on any subject without the aid of 
some one who has become more familiar with the pecul- 
iar style. 

This fact I saw instanced on an occasion of a treaty 
made, or attempted to be made, by Governor Stevens 
with five tribes on the Chehalis Eiver in the spring of 
1855. There were present the Cowlitz, the Chehalis, 
Chenook, Queniult, and Satchap Indians. Colonel B. 
r. Shaw was the interpreter, and spoke the language 
fluently ; but, although he was perfectly understood by, 
the Cowlitz and Satchap Indians, he was but imperfect- 
ly understood by the Chenooks, Chehalis, and Queniults, 
and it was necessary for those present who were con- 
versant with the Coast tribes to repeat to them what he 
said before they could fully understand. 

I experienced the same difficulty ; for, as I had been 
accustomed to speak a great deal of the Chehalis lan- 
guage with the Jargon, I found that the Indians from the 
interior could not readily understand me when making- 
use- of words in the Chehalis dialect. 

The Jargon is interesting as showing how a language 
can be formed. The words of three distinct languages 
— the French, English, and Indian — are made to form a 



310 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

separate and distinct tongue. It is a language, howev- 
er, never used except when the Indians and whites are 
conversing, or bj two distant tribes who do not under- 
stand each other, and only as an American and a Rus- 
sian would be likely to talk French to communicate their 
ideas with each other. The Indians speaking the same 
language no more think of using the Jargon while talk- 
ino' too-ether than the Americans do. 

It is a language confined wholly, I believe, to our 
Northwestern possessions west of the Rocky Mountains. 
It originated in the roving, trading spirit of the tribes, 
and has been added to and increased since the introduc- 
tion of the whites among them. 

Of the origin of any of the languages of the different 
tribes it is impossible even to conjecture ; but it certain- 
ly seems to me that if, as has been alleged, these tribes 
did come from Asia, there would have been some simi- 
larity in the languages by which they could be traced. 

Mr. Squier makes the following philosophical re- 
marks : 

" The casual resemblance of certain words in the lan- 
^guages of ximerica and those of the Old World can not 
be taken as evidence of common origin. Such coinci- 
dences may be easily accounted for as the result of acci- 
dent, or, at most, of local infusions. It is not in acci- 
dental coincidences of sound or meaning, but in a com- 
parison of the general structure and character of the 
American languages with those of other countries, that 
we can expect to find similitudes at all conclusive, or 
worthy of remark in determining the question of a com- 
mon origin." 

Among the Chehalis Indians, and even among the 
Chenooks, are found words occasionally strikingly re- 
sembling those of some foreign country. Connath in- 
nishu, an expression of derision, which is something 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 311 

similar to the remark, Yon are stupid or half drunk, is 
certainly very similar in its appearance and sound to 
Irish words, but it must be poor evidence by which to 
prove that the Indians were originally Irish. But I be- 
lieve that there are more Irish-sounding words in the 
Chehalis language than there are Hebrew, and, so far 
as any sound of words goes, it is as easy to prove their 
descent from the Irish as it is from the lost tribes of 
Israel. 

The following amusing ''parable," from Nott & Glid- 
don's Notes, may do to insert here : " It is well known 
that the earlier colonists of Barbadoes, Montserrat, and 
some other West India islands were Irish exiles. Odd 
to relate, while a few of their negro slaves actually speak 
Gaelic^ many have acquired the ' brogue.' 

?'An Hibernian, fresh from the green isle, arrived one 
day at the port of Bridgetown, and was hailed by two 
negro boatmen, who offered to take him ashore. Observ- 
ing that their names were Pat and Murphy, and that 
their brogue was uncommonly rich, tlie stranger (taking 
them to be Irishmen) asked, 'And how long have ye 
been from the ould country?' Misunderstanding him, 
one of the darkies replied, ' Sex months, yer honor.' 
'Sex months! sex months! only sex months! and turn- 
ed as black as me liat ! J ! what a climate ! Bow 

me back to the ship. I'm from Cork last, and I'll soon 
be there again.' 

"Every one laughs at the verdant simplicity which be- 
lieved that a Celt could be transmuted by climate into a 
negro in six months. All would smile at the notion of 
such a possibility within 6, or even 60 years ; most 
readers will hesitate over 600 years. Anatomy, history, 
and the monuments prove that 6000 years have never 
metamorphosed one type of man into another." 

As early as 1819, Mr. Duponceau advanced the fol- 



312 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

lowing conclusion : " That the American languages in 
general are rich in words and grammatical form, and that, 
in their complicated construction, the greatest order, 
method, and regularity prevail ; that these complicated 
forms, which he calls polysthenic, appear to exist in all 
the languages from Greenland to Cape Horn, and that 
these forms differ essentially from those of the ancient 
and modern languages of the old hemisphere." 

Gliddon remarks : " The type of a race would never 
change if kept from adulterations, as may be seen in the 
case of the Jews and other people. So with languages : 
we have no reason to believe that a race would ever lose 
its language if kept aloof from foreign influences. It is' 
a fact that, in the little island of Great Britain, the Welsh 
and Erse are still spoken, although for two thousand years 
pressed upon by the strongest influences tending to ex- 
terminate a tongue. So with the Basque in France, which 
can be traced back at least three thousand years, and is 
still spoken. Coptic was the language of Egypt for at 
least five thousand years, and still leaves its trace in the 
languages around. The Chinese has existed equally as 
long, and is still undisturbed." 

We have seen that wherever the Jews, or the Chinese, 
or the Gipsies, or Negroes, liave wandered from one part 
of the world to the other, they have, either in general ap- 
pearance or language, retained a separate and distinct 
position ; and it is but natural to conclude that, if the 
American Indians had come from Asia, they would cer- 
tainly have retained something, either in language or ap- 
pearance, like the tribes of the Old World. 

We are assured by writers that this diversity of lan- 
guages was caused by the confusion of tongues at the 
Tower of Babel ; but Gliddon & Nott state that " it is 
well known to cuneiform students of the present day that 
Babylon's tower did not exist before the reign of Neb- 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 313 

uchadnezzar, who "built it during the seventh century B.C. 
The antiquities of America show it to have been popu- 
lated fifty thousand years ago." 

Leaving what must, to us, remain always an uncer- 
tainty as to the origin of the Indian language, and de- 
scending to the practical, or language of the present, as 
we find it, the most casual observer must be struck with 
the great similarity in the ending of many of the Cheha- 
lis words with the Mexican or Aztec it ; as, for instance, 
a-quail-shiltl, the north wind ; quer-lo-e-chintl, bear-ber- 
ry; par-lam-shiltl, raspberry (Rubus odoratus); nar-whatl, 
yes; ow-whitl, another; jo-quitl, get up; shooks-quitl, 
to-day; se-cartl, spruce; sheo-quintl, cedar; skaer-kuttl, 
woman ; sartl, two, &c. 

That the northern tribes, or those of Oregon and 
Washington, have been accustomed to long journeys 
south, is a fact which is easily shown. When Fremont 
first commenced hostilities in California, a large body of 
Walla Walla Indians from the Columbia were creating 
disturbances in the region of Sacramento. These In- 
dians formerly made regular excursions to the south 
every year, on horseback, for the purpose of trade or 
plunder. 

The wife of Mr. Ducheney, the agent at Chenook for 
the Hudson Bay Company, who is a very intelligent 
woman, informed me that her father was a Frenchman, 
and her mother a Walla Walla Indian, and that, when she 
was quite a child, she recollected going with her mother 
and a party of her tribe to the south for a number of 
months ; that they were three months going and three 
months returning ; that they took horses with them, and 
Indian trinkets, which they exchanged for vermilion and 
Mexican blankets ; and that on their return her mother 
-died, and was buried where the city of Sacramento now 
stands. I asked her how she knew where Sacramento 

O 



314 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

was, and she replied that some of her friends had since 
gone to California, to the gold mines, and that on their 
return they said that it was at Sacramento where her 
mother was buried. 

She was too young to remember how far into Mexico 
they went, but I judged that the vermilion she mention- 
ed was obtained from the mountains of Almaden, near 
San Jose, California. But I have no reason to doubt 
the statement, as I have heard similar statements from 
other sources. These facts, taken into consideration with 
the allegory of the thunder-bird of the Chenooks and 
Chehalis, would seem to give weight to the supposition 
that at some time or other the Mexican Indians had been 
among the Northern tribes ; or it may be considered, on 
the other hand, by those who believe in the northwest 
exodus from Asia, as a proof that, as the Mexican end- 
ing tl is found among the tribes still farther north, the 
Mexicans themselves originated in that quarter. Be 
that as it may, my present limits and limited information 
will not allow me to enter upon what must prove but a 
very unsatisfactory argument.* ^j-ri: x^- r^^Oi; 

In examining the vocabularies in the Appendix, many 
words of English origin, in the Jargon, are to be found 
dressed in an Indian phraseology simply by using the 
letter L instead of R. The reason is that the Indians 
can not sound R when used as the commencement of it 
word. Thus, for instance, rice is pronounced lice ; rope, 
lope ; Robert, Lobert ; run, lun ; or bread, bled ; le pretre 
(the priest), la plate ; key, klee, &c. Other letters are quite 
as difficult for them to pronounce, although they can, 

* "It should he remembered," says Prescott (Conquest of Mexico, 
vol. iii., p. 414), "hoAY treacherous a thing is tradition, and how easily 
the links of the chain are severed. The builders of the Pyramids had 
been forgotten before the time of the earliest Greek historians. ' Inter 
omnes eos non constat a quibus factae sint, justissimo casu, obliteratis 
tantSB vanitatis auctoribus.' " — ^Pliny, Hist. Nat., lib. xxxvi., cap. 17. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 315 

with exertion. Thus they call shovel, shuml ; vinegar, 
mingar. F is also sounded like p, as pire for fire, pork 
for fork. It is easy to see that, if every English or 
French word should be written as the Indians pronounce 
them, a very large and curious-looking vocabulary could 
be produced. I have therefore omitted many words of 
English and French origin, and only given a few, with 
their derivation, as specimens of the manner the Jargon 
is gotten up. 

In ordinary conversation many of their words are cut 
short, and those long words in the Chehalis language 
can thus be made to convey the desired information in a 
quicker manner. Tolneuch means west wind ; it also 
means off shore, toward the sea, or to the west. Thus, 
if an Indian, while getting his canoe through the surf, 
wishes his companion to push her head off shore, he will 
call out Tolneuch ; but if he is in a hurry, or there is 
danger, and it is necessary to move quick, he calls out 
neuch neuch, Cla-ath-lum is the east wind, and also 
means on shore, and that is abbreviated to clath clath:. 
This style of abbreviation I learned while taking my 
jaunt in the canoe from Queniult to Shoal-water Bay. 
I had been accustomed to the Chenook words, as used 
in the Jargon, Tnartquilly and Tnartinly, for off shore 
or on shore, but we could not speak them quite quick 
enough when a wave was about breaking ; so I noticed 
the Indians adopted the other expressions, which after- 
ward they explained, and I found that neuch neuch^ or 
clath clath^ was quite as easily spoken as any other meth- 
od of conveying information I was aware of. 
' , The peculiar clucking sound is produced by the tongue 
pressing against the roof of the mouth, and pronouncing 
a word ending with tl as if there was the letter Jc at the 
6nd of the tl ; but it is impossible, in any form or meth- 
od of spelling that I know of, to convey the proper gut- 



316 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OE, 

tural clucking sound. Sometimes they will, as if for 
amusement, end all their words with tl ; and the effect 
is ludicrous to hear three or four talking at the same 
time with this singular sound, like so many sitting hens. 

The Chehalis language is very rich in words, and ev- 
ery one is so expressive that it is not possible, like the 
Jargon, to make mistakes ; for instance, in the Jargon, 
which is very limited, the same word represents a great 
many different things. 

Tupsoe means hair, feathers, the finely-pounded bark 
of the young cedar, grass, blossoms, and leaves, but in 
the Chehalis and Queniult languages each of these things 
is represented by a specific wordl They have also a 
separate word for every plant, shrub, and flower, as our 
own botanists have. I noticed this among even the 
children, who frequently brought me collections of flow- 
ers. They readily told me the name of each, and were 
certainly more conversant with a difference in plants 
than many of our own children, and even grown people, 
who are too ready to class all common plants as weeds. 

Many of the Jargon words, though entirely different, 
yet sound so much alike when quickly spoken, that a 
stranger is apt to get deceived ; and I have known per- 
sons who did not well understand the Jargon get angry 
with an Indian, thinking he said something entirely dif- 
ferent from what he actually did. 

The words wake^ no, and wicht, directly or after, sound, 
as pronounced, very similar. *' Chd-ko^ Mac, chd-ho^^'* 
"Come quick! come," said a settler one day to an In- 
dian who was very busy. " Wicht nika chd-ko^^'' " I 
will come directly," said the Indian. But the white man 
understood him to say, ''''Wake nika chd-ko,''^ "I will* 
not come," consequently got angry. " You don't under- 
stand Indian talk ; I did not say I would not come," 
said the Indian. If he had said Narwitka, yes, the 
white man would have understood. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 317 

JJlthl means proud, and ulticut long, but they are 
readily confounded with each other. A friend of mine, 
who was about leaving the Bay, wished to tell some In^ 
dians who were working for him that if, on his return, 
he found they had behaved well, he should feel very 
proud of them and glad, used the following : Ulticut 
nika tumtum, or, my heart is long, instead of ulthl nika 
tumtum^ or, my heart is proud. '' He must have a funny 
heart," said the Indian who related it to me. "He says 
his heart is long ; perhaps it is like a mouse's tail." 

There are many other words that are as readily mis- 
understood, but the above will be sufficient to show that, 
however writers may agree about methods of spelling, 
no person can possibly learn the Indian language on the 
Coast, so as to speak it fluently, without learning it oral- 
ly from the Indians, and living among them, so as to be- 
come familiarized with the different sounds and modu- 
lations of the voice. The difficulty of learning either 
the Chenook, Chehalis, or Queniult language is, that the 
tribes are so near each other, they frequently use each 
other's words in conversation. For instance, the shrub 
Gaultheria Shallon is called by the Chenooks Sallal^ 
by the Chehalis taark^ and by the Queniults squasowich. 
The heart, also, is called by the three different names of 
tumtum^ aitsemar^ and squillims. And as, in conversa- 
tion with themselves, they readily use either, it gives 
rise to confusion in precisely the same manner as if one 
of us, in attempting to speak English with an Indian, to 
teach him, should make use of French and Latin words. 

They appear to have a great aversion to learning the 
English language, contenting themselves with the Jargon, 
which they look upon as a sort of white man's talk. 
They, however, are not so averse to learning French, 
probably because they can imitate the sounds of French 
words easier than they can the English. I kave several 



318 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

times endeavored to teach the alphabet to the young In- 
dians, but they objected, and yet some of them have the 
power of imitation so good that they can copy off writing 
or printing very readily. Peter, who lived with us, 
would amuse himself often by printing letters. He 
showed me at one time a strip of paper on which he had 
printed, with a little brush I had given him. New York 
Herald^ in letters precisely like the heading of that pa- 
per, and yet he could not tell the name of a single letter, 
nor would he learn. 

The Coast Indians are by no means deficient in intel- 
lect. They are, to all appearance, full as intelligent and 
smart as those tribes where we hear of so much im- 
provement having been effected by teachers. But the 
tribes of the Coast are broken up into small bands, con- 
tinually roving about, and the only aim they appear to 
have is to become tyee or chief, which with them means 
to get as much property as they can, either in slaves, 
canoes, blankets, horses, or guns, and then idle away 
their time. 

It is difficult to account for the great dissimilarity to 
be found among the Indians in regard to language. 
Living so near to each other, having so ready and con- 
stant communication, living in the same style, with the 
same natural objects around them, it would appear as if 
they would be more likely to speak the same dialect. 
We can readily understand how the Indians of the 
Plains or in remote parts of the country should, from 
different association, have different forms of expression, 
but that these bands between the Columbia and Fuca 
Straits should differ so, is a subject that I am not eth- 
nologist enough to discover. 

During the winter we had, with the exception of the 
usual in-door work, very little to amuse us. We had 
occasionally some anecdote told of matters down the 



THEEE YEAKS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 319 

beach, and a characteristic one of Cartumhays I will re- 
late. He had purchased a demijohn of some of the set- 
tlers, agreeing to pay ten wild geese for it. Two he paid 
at once to close the bargain, and then went to shoot the 
remainder, when he was to receive the demijohn. In 
about a week he returned with a bunch of geese tied to- 
gether by their heads. 

" Count them," said he to the owner of the demijohn. 
He did so, and found eight heads, which was the num- 
ber of geese required to make up the amount. The count 
was reported correct, and the demijohn delivered to Car- 
tumhays ; but when the geese were to be cooked, it was 
found there were eight heads sure enough, but only six 
bodies, Tomhays having taken two for his own use. It 
is needless to remark that old Tomhays kept clear of 
that particular log cabin for a long time afterward. 

We had now gTown into the dignity of a village, and, 
at a meeting of the settlers, it was voted to name the 
town Bruceville (which has since been changed to Bruce- 
port). We had received during the year several addi- 
tions to the settlement, among whom were Doctor James 
R. Johnson, with his lady and child. This was quite a 
comfort to us, for the doctor, besides being a jolly, good- 
natured, and hospitable man, was a gentleman, and quite 
skillful in his profession, and his arrival made us feel safe 
on the score of medical advice. A large grocery store 
had also been opened by Messrs. Coon and Woodward, 
who also kept a public house. This was another good 
thing, as it relieved the old settlers from the necessity 
of entertaining all the strangers and new-comers into the 
Bay. It, however, was a means of relieving the pockets 
of the travelers, for Mr. Coon did not arrive in the Bay 
at that primitive period when hospitalities were gratu- 
itously tendered, but, on the contrary, having, as he said, 
come to make his pile, he appeared anxious to do so in 
the shortest possible time. 



320 



THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 



A blacksmith had also arrived with his family some 
months previous. He was an excellent workman, but a 
worthless fellow, and finally ran oiF. 

There were fortunately no lawyers, so Doctor Johnson 
and myself were appointed to take the place of legal wis- 
dom ; and, having found an old copy of Iowa statutes, 
we expounded law to the learned and erudite justice, 
Squire Champ, whose court was pretty well attended, 
either for fun, frolic, or business, to pass off the time 
during the winter months. But we had no more crim- 
inal trials after the one when Joe was locked up in the 
hen-coop, although several trials of civil cases came up, 
which the squire usually disposed of in a very uncivil 
manner. Neither the arguments of the counsel nor the 
decisions of the court would probably be looked upon as 
very learned by the legal profession, but they served a 
very good purpose, and gave the same results that all 
lawsuits do — satisfaction to the winner and indignation 
to the loser. 

I had another professional call to perform the part of 
doctor. During the winter, an old Indian, called George 
or Squintum, who lived near Russell's house, got into a 
drunken frolic one night in his lodge, during which he 
received a blow from a hatchet, thrown by his wife's 
brother, a perfect young savage, named Kohpoh. He 
was cut in the cords of his neck in such a manner as to 
perfectly paralyze all his limbs. Dr. Cooper, who was 
still residing at Russell's, was called, and dressed the 
wound. 

A few days after I met the doctor, when he remarked, 
" Pray, what is that powerful medicine you have given 
to the Indians formerly ?" I requested him to explain, 
for I did not know what he meant. He said that he 
had found it necessary to use caustic to cauterize old 
George's back, but that individual, not experiencing im- 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 32l 

mediate relief, had told him that I was a "better doctor, 
and had a skookum^ or strong medicine, which he knew 
would cure him. 

I told the doctor I expected it was the celebrated lin- 
iment I had formerly used. He laughed. " Well," he 
added, *' if you have any more, I wish you would try it. 
It can't hurt the old fellow, if it don't do him any good, 
and he stsems to have great faith in it." 

I then went to Dr. Johnson, and getting from him 
some of the most powerful aqua ammonige, proceeded to 
the lodge of old George. "How are you, George?" I 
asked. "I have come to give you some medicine." 
" Good," he replied ; " I can't move ; I am all dead but 
my heart and tongue. My heart is strong, and I can 
talk." 

I told his squaw to raise him up, which she did, and 
I requested him to smell of the ammonia. " Smell hard, 
George," said I. He gave a powerful sniff at the bottle, 
and the result was that he was knocked over immedi- 
ately. " Ugh ! " he grunted, as his wife gathered him up ; 
" that is good — that is medicine. Now I will get well." 

I then asked his wife for some whale oil, which she 
brought me, but it smelled so bad that it would have al- 
most killed flies. However, I poured some into a bottle 
with the ammonia, producing a compound which had, as 
one remarked, a " solid stink." 

This high-scented liniment was then rubbed all over 
the old fellow, producing, as he said, a sensation like a 
thousand needles. He was delighted, and expected to 
get well in a couple of days ; but I assured him that if 
he recovered in six months he would be fortunate. He 
did, however, recover during the summer so far as to be 
able to do a little work, and gradually got well ; but he 
always thought that my skookum medicine was what 
cured him. 

02 



322 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

-Mr. Kohpoh. came very near having his head broke 
the following summer by the captain and myself, through 
mistake. Kohpoh, or, as the captain called him, "Cof- 
feepot," was a notoriously bad fellow, and was hated by 
the whites and feared by the Indians. 
, We had told him never to come round our house, for 
his character as a thief was too notorious to have his 
company desirable. It appeared, however, that he got 
angry with Peter, our boy (or, rather, young man, for 
both Kohpoh and himself were nearly of the same age, 
and both over twenty), and he determined to have his 
revenge. 

One evening, after we had gone to bed, we heard our 
two dogs barking fiercely on the marsh near the house. 
The captain said he believed they had a 'coon in one of 
the ditches, and proposed that we take a lantern and go 
for him. So, without waiting to dress ourselves, we each 
seized a club, and, taking a lantern, went out among the 
grass to find and kill the 'coon. The dogs stiU kept up 
their yelping, and, as we approached, seemed very much 
excited. Each of us held up our club to strike, while the 
old man directed the rays of the lantern to light us to 
the game. Directly the captain stumbled over a dark 
object just as he brought down his club with a hoUow 
thump on the ribs of some live animal. " It's a bear !" 
roared out the captain; "look out for him!" "No, it 
is not," said I, for I had caught the glimpse of a blue 
blanket ; "it's an Indian." " Hit him," says the cap- 
tain ; "curse him — who is he?" "I think," said I, 
"it's old Colote; but let us see." With that I seized 
hold of the fellow's hair, and pulled his face up so that 
we could ascertain, and then found it was Kohpoh, who, 
on his knees and elbows, was curled up like a hedgehogs 
We were both very much vexed when we found who it 
was, for we knew he was there for no good purpose. " I 



! 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 323 

am sorry," said the captain, " I didn't know who it was, 
for if I had he would have been very likely to have got 
what I should have given to a bear ; and I have a good 
mind now to give him something, to learn him better 
than to prowl around here." " Let us first find out 
what he wants," said I. Kohpoh, who was very much 
firightened, then told me that he had come down to do 
some mischief to Peter, but would go home directly if 
we let him ofi*. He was afraid of the dogs, which was 
the reason he had hid in the grass. He did not feel at 
all easy about his ribs from the thump he had received 
from the captain's cudgel, and was ready to do anything 
I should propose for the sake of getting off. I told him 
to go up and give Peter his blanket as a settlement of 
their difficulty, and then leave. He did so, and in a 
few minutes was out of sight, running for dear life. 

He did not relish the parting with his blanket, but took 
occasion to steal it back from Peter a few days after- 
ward ; but he was very careful never to come round us 
again at night, and very seldom dared to come in the 
daytime. 

I frequently went up the river with Peter, either to 
shoot ducks or to help him about his otter and beaver 
traps. One day we extended our journey much farther 
than usual, and on the edge of a marsh or prairie dis- 
covered the poles of some Indian's temporary lodge. We 
paddled up to see what it was, when Peter pronounced 
it to have been put there by some Klickatat Indians, for 
that was their style. Peter was very much frightened, 
and insisted on returning. I asked him who the Klick- 
atats were. He said they were from the interior ; that 
sometimes they came through the woods to Shoal-water 
.Bay while hunting for elk ; that they were very hostile 
to the Bay and Coast Indians, and did not hesitate to 
murder them and steal their effects. As I had neither 



324 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

heard nor cared about the Klickatats, I thought it very 
doubtful about their coming over the mountains to Shoal- 
water Bay when they could have come easier by the Co- 
lumbia; but he would go no farther, and we returned 
home. Here we found Cletheas and his wife, with a rel- 
ative of theirs, a Cowlitz Indian, who corroborated all 
Peter's surmises. He said that during the past sum- 
mer a party of Klickatats, with whom he was acquaint- 
ed, had invited him to join them on a hunt, as they wish- 
ed to go to Shoal-water Bay, and he knew the way bet- 
ter than they did, as he was a hunter, and constantly in 
the woods betw^een the Cowlitz and the Bay. 

They did not appear, however, very anxious to kill 
any more game than what they wished to eat on the 
way, and finally told him that their object was to find 
out how many white persons there were about the Bay ; 
and they actually went to the residence of every white 
person, and had ascertained the number of inhabitants ; 
and that it was the same party who had put up the lodge- 
poles Peter and myself had found. His impression was 
that they had some hostile feelings against the Indians 
of the Bay, and had merely taken the account of the 
whites as r- blind to him of their real motives ; and that, 
fearing they meant to do harm to the Indians, he had 
come down to tell his relatives to be on their guard. 
Now this might all have been true; but subsequent 
events have proved to my mind that it was a part of the 
system of general rising that was about to take place 
among the Indians, and which did take place the follow- 
ing year ; and among the most hostile and ruthless were 
this very tribe of Klickatats. And I think the visit of 
the Cowlitz Indian was to apprise those of the Bay of 
the move ; but when he learned that I had found out. 
about the old lodge-poles, he artfully told his story to 
me so as to conceal the truth. At all events, I paid no 



THKEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 325 

attention to it one way or the other, and for a time for- 
got all about it. 

As Christmas drew near the game seemed to decrease ; 
and, although we had a plenty of salt salmon and pota- 
toes, we thought we could not celebrate the day without 
having a goose, or duck, or some kind of a bird ; but 
nothing came near us but crows. The captain said crow 
was good, so was eagle, so was^ owl ; he reasoned in this 
manner : A crow, said he, is good, because it has a crop 
like a hen ; and eagles, hawks, and owls are good, for, 
although they have no crops, yet they do not feed upon 
carrion. So we addressed ourselves to the subject of 
procuring a Christmas dinner. Fortunately or unfortu- 
nately, I shot a couple of crows. They were very an- 
cient, entirely void of fat, and altogether presented to my 
mind a sorry picture of a feast. But the captain was de- 
lighted. "I will make a sea-pie of them," said he, "and 
then you can judge what crow-meat is." The birds 
were cleaned and cut up, and a fine sea-pie made with 
dumplings, salt pork, potatoes, and a couple of onions. 
And precisely at meridian on Christmas-day (for the old 
captain liked to keep up sea-hours), the contents of the 
iron pot were emptied into a tin pan, and set before us 
smoking hot. 

I tried my best to eat crow, but it was too tough for 
me. " How do you like it?" said the old man, as, with 
a desperate effort, he wrenched off a mouthful from a leg. 
*'I am like the man," said I, "who was once placed in 
the same position : * I ken eat crow, but hang me if I 
hanker arter it.'" "Well," says the captain, "it is 
somewhat hard ; but try some of the soup and dump- 
lings, and don't condemn crow-meat from this trial, for 
you shot the grandfather and grandmother of the flock : 
no wonder they are tough ; shoot a young one next 
time." "No more crow-meat for me, thank you," said 



326 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OE, 

I. So I finished my Christmas dinner on dumplings 
and potatoes. 

The captain was famous for cooking every thing that 
had ever lived. We had eaten of young eagles, hawks, 
owls, lynx, beaver, seal, otter, gulls, pelican, and, finally, 
wound up with crow ; and the crow was the worst of the 
lot. The captain once tried to bake a skunk, but, not 
having properly cleaned it, it smelt so unsavory when 
the bake-kettle was opened that he was forced to throw 
skunk and kettle into the river, which he did with a sigh, 
remarking what a pity it was that it smelled so strong, 
when it was baked so nice and brown. However, the 
eaptain could get up some nice messes, and a favorite 
pudding of his is well worth knowing how to make ; he 
called it a fisherman's pudding, and it is made thus : Cut 
some salt pork up fine, and fry it slightly in the kettle 
or pot you wish to make the pudding in ; then add some 
boiling water, and stir in as much molasses as will make 
it pretty sweet. This is then put on the fire, and, while 
boiling, Indian meal is to be gently sifted in with one 
hand, and well stirred in at the same time with a spoon 
till the whole acquires the proper consistency, and then, 
after a puff or two, it is cooked. A hungry man can 
soon tell whether it tastes good or not. I always found 
that the fisherman's pudding was well liked by every one 
who partook of it, whether white men or Indians. 



THEEE TEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 327 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Indian Treaties. — Invitation to be present at a Treaty on the Chehalis 
River. — Journey to the Chehalis. — Various Adventures. — We reach 
the River and encamp. — A lively Scene going up to the Treaty-ground. 
— Description of the Encampment. — Governor Stevens. — Whites 
present. — Indians. — Uniform of the Governor. — Colonel Simmons. — 
Story-telling. — The Governor backs up my Stories. — Judge Ford. — 
Commissary Cushman. — The Treaty. — Indians will not agree to it. — 
Number of Indians in the Coast Tribes. — Tleyuk. — Governor takes 
away Tleyuk's "Paper." — Indians have no Faith in the Americans. — 
The Conduct of the Hudson Bay Company contrasted with that of 
the Americans. — We start for Home and encounter a Storm. — Che- 
halis River. — ^Adventures on our Journey home. — Colonel Anderson's 
Adventures. 

/^DuEiNG the winter I received from Governor Stevens 
a letter inviting me to be present at a meeting to be held 
early in the spring on the Chehalis River, for the purpose 
of making a treaty with some of the Coast tribes relative 
to a purchase of their lands. This meeting was to take 
place at the clearing of a settler about ten miles from the 
mouth of the river, and the day designated was the 25th 
of February, 1855. On the 6th day of February a let- 
ter was brought to me from Colonel H. D. Cocke, who 
was at that time at Gray's Harbor, superintending the 
arrangements for the forthcoming meeting. This letter 
informed me that the colonel would meet me at Arm- 
strong's Point on the 24th of the month, and convey me 
up the river. As Doctor Cooper was desirous to go to 
Olympia, he concluded this was a very good opportunity 
to accompany the governor on his return, and decided to 
go with me. While we were making our arrangements 
for leaving, the Indian sub-agent for the southwestern 
section of the Territory, Mr. William B. Tappan, arrived, 



328 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

on his way to the camp. He had several Indians with 
him, and could and should have taken all the Chenooks 
and Shoal- water Bay Indians ; but, as he had misunder- 
stood his instructions, he refused to have any of them 
accompany us except the few he had with him and the 
few who lived on the north side of the Bay, whom he 
classed as Chehalis Indians. Among these last were Old 
Toke and his family, who at that time lived on the north 
side of the Bay, near the house of Mr. J. F. Barrows, who 
had settled there during the preceding year. After we 
had made all our arrangements, and engaged the Indians 
to take our blankets, we crossed the Bay in Toke's canoe, 
and remained all night at Mr. Barrows's house, the In- 
dians going to their lodge^> 

After a most hospTFable reception and a good night's 
sleep, we were all ready for a start by sunrise the follow- 
ing morning. It was clear, bright, and frosty, with just 
enough of a northwest breeze to make quick walking 
agreeable. We were all in the best of spirits, and as 
Tappan was full of anecdotes, which he related in a' 
sprightly manner, we soon got over the walk we had to 
take to join the canoes, which the Indians had paddled 
round the point some distance ahead, for we preferred the 
walk to sitting still in a canoe. We shortly arrived at 
a little creek which runs into the Bay directly at the foot 
of the bluff of Cape Shoal-water. Here the Indians 
stopped to haul up their canoes and turn them bottom 
up. Each one was then assigned a portion of the camp 
luggage. We did not have any thing with us except 
our blankets and one day's provisions, as the governor 
had sent word that a tent and rations would be ready on 
our arrival. When the Indians had fixed their last pack 
and tied their last knot, they pronounced themselves to 
be ready, and we set off. We walked so briskly that 
we were soon through the woods, and over the plain, and 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 329 

on to the beautiful beach. Here we felt the full force of 
the sharp, frosty morning breeze, which had the effect to 
quicken our steps, although it was by no means very 
cold. The doctor had a double-barreled fowling-piece, 
for the pui'pose of obtaining specimens of bkds. Tappan 
and myself had no weapons, either pistol or gun ; but one 
carried a loaf of bread, and the other some boxes of sar- 
dines, for our lunch. The Indians could not keep up 
with us, as they had, besides our blankets, all their own 
camp equipage and provisions, and consequently moved 
slow, ilt noon we halted at the side of a little stream 
of fresh water that runs across the sands of the beach, 
and having found a big clam-shell, which we used in- 
stead of a dipper, sat down on an old spar and took our 
dinner, consisting of sardines, bread, and water. This 
brook of water, however, is only fit to use in the winter 
months, as during the summer it is very brackish and 
unfit to drink. There is a large quantity of water dis- 
charged from it during the rainy season, and at high tide 
it is impossible to cross without swimming ; but during 
the summer, and at low tide, it is nothing but a mere 
brook a few inches deep. 

While we were waiting, a son of old Carcowan's came 
up on horseback. The doctor instantly made the In- 
dian an ofier to hire it, for he alleged that he was quite 
tired, and proposed that we should adopt the old plan 
of ride and tie. I told him that he and Tappan might 
do the riding and tying, for I preferred to walk. So, 
after finishing our dinner, we moved along. First the 
doctor rode a short distance, and then waited for Tap- 
pan to take the steed. But I soon found they both 
began to look blue, for the air was quite keen, and the 
horse not very swift, and riding made them feel quite 
chilly. At last Tappan declined riding any more, and 
left the animal to the doctor, who finally concluded that 



330 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

the best way to keep warm was to get off and walk ; but 
his horse did not like being led, and it was with diffi- 
culty the doctor could get him along. In the mean time 
Tappan and myself had walked on, and about three 
o'clock arrived at the lodge of old Carcowan, which had 
recently been built near Armstrong's house. Here we 
found Colonel Cocke and a son of Judge Ford's, who, 
with a retinue of Indians, were waiting our arrival, and 
had ready, roasting at the fire, great strips of juicy beef, 
which they had brought down the Chehalis Eiver. 
While we were warming ourselves, the doctor arrived 
with his Kosinante, and we were soon ready for our 
meal, which consisted of the aforesaid beef, roast pota- 
toes, coffee, and hard bread, and to this Carcowan's wife, 
Aunt Sally, gave us some fresh-baked bread, just out of 
the ashes, so we made a very hearty meal. The colonel 
now proposed that we should at once start for the camp ; 
but, as the Indians had not yet arrived with our blank- 
ets, the doctor and myself concluded to wait till they 
came up, and let the others go. The wind was blowing 
fresh, and it was quite rough, but they all bundled into 
a canoe and started. I watched them a while, and at 
last saw them coming back, and then found that their 
canoe leaked so badly they could not keep her free. On 
hauling her out and examining her, they discovered that 
a knot had been knocked out of her bottom, and the wa- 
ter was coming in so fast that in a short time they would 
have foundered. But the Indians stopped up the hole 
with a bunch of grass, and again they were off, and this 
time with better luck. Gray's Harbor is a rough place 
usually, but in the winter and spring months it is quite 
dangerous to cross it in canoes. It is much worse than 
Shoal-water Bay in this respect, for the channels are so 
much narrower that the tide rushes in and out with great 
velocity and turbulence; yet these Indians are so ac- 



if/; 11, 




THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 333 

customed to it that thej will cross at almost any time 
in loaded canoes. 

It was now our turn to start, and, as the doctor had 
made a bargain with my quondam friend Caslah^han to 
take us up the river, we embarked in his canoe, with as 
many Indians as could stow into her. Caslah^'han had 
very high ideas of the worth of his services, and asked 
some two or three blankets from the doctor and a couple 
of bags of flour from me ; but the doctor told him the 
governor would settle when we got to camp, and he was 
satisfied with that promise. 

Our canoe was so crowded that she was scarcely out 
of the water, which occasionally swashed into her, threat- 
ening to give us a ducking ; but the Indian bailed it 
out ; and, as the canoe was strong, and did not leak a 
drop, I felt comparatively safe. Caslah^han soon hoisted 
his sail, and we crossed the Bay in a short time, and en- 
tered the mouth of the Chehalis Eiver just about sun- 
down. The tide was now running out strongly, and 
the Indians concluded to camp for the night, and, having 
found a suitable place, we went ashore, and were soon 
joined by two or three other canoes full of Indians. 

As usual, the first thing was to kindle a fire, and then 
the Indians went to work to cook their supper, which 
culinary operation, being simply to warm some dried sal- 
mon over the coals, was soon accomplished. The doctor 
and myself, for the sake of amusement, cooked some 
slices of bacon for our supper, but we had eaten so re- 
cently that we gave the principal part to the Indians, and 
then hunted round for a sheltered spot to pass the night. 
Under the gnarled roots of a great spruce-tree which 
grew near the edge of the bank, and had been under- 
mined by the water during some freshet, seemed to be 
just the place, and here we made our bed. First an 
India-rubber sheet belonging to the doctor was spread, 



334 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

to keep off any dampness from the ground ; then some 
Indian mats on top of that, covered with a blanket, 
formed a nice, warm, dry bed, and our other blankets 
and coats furnished the covering. Our pillows were our 
carpet-bags, and on them we laid our heads, and slept 
as soundly as possible till daylight, when the bustling 
of the Indians waked us up, and we found them all ready 
to start. We had been joined during the night by some 
fifteen or twenty canoes of different sizes, all filled with 
men, women, and children. 

As soon as we were ready we all started, with a whoop 
and a yell, without waiting for breakfast, and away we 
went up stream for the camp. The scene was both nov- 
el and interesting to me, and I watched it with a good 
deal of attention. 

The camp was about ten miles distant up the river; 
and as we could not get any breakfast until we reached 
there, and the morning at that early hour was quite frosty, 
the doctor and myself found it difficult to keep warm. But 
the Indians did not seem to mind it at all ; for, excited 
with the desire to outvie each other in their attempts to 
be first to camp, they paddled, and screamed, and shout- 
ed, and laughed, and cut up aU sorts of antics, which 
served to keep them in a glow. As we approached the 
camp we all stopped at a bend in the river, about three 
quarters of a mile distant, when all began to wash their 
faces, comb their hair, and put on their best clothes. The 
women got out their bright shawls and dresses, and 
painted their faces with vermilion, or red ochre, and 
grease, and decked themselves out with their beads and 
trinkets, and in about ten minutes we were a gay-look- 
ing set ; and certainly the appearance of the canoes filled 
with Indians dressed in their brightest colors was very 
picturesque, but I should have enjoyed it better had the 
weather been a little warmer. 



I 



c 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 337 \"-^ 

About 9 o'clock we reached the camp, very cold and -^ 

hungry. Governor Stevens gave us a cordial welcome, 
and, after expressing the gratification he felt at the sight 
of so many canoes filled with well-dressed Indians, told 
us to go to the camp-fire, where he had ordered a break- 
fast to be ready for us, and we soon had a hearty meal 
of beefsteak, hot biscuit, and cofi*ee, and were then shown 
the tent which had been assigned to us, where we pro- 
ceeded to put ourselves to rights, and then took a look 
around to see the lay of the land. 

The camp-ground was situated on a bluff bank of the 
river, on its south side, about ten miles from Gray's 
Harbor, on the claim of Mr, James Pilkington. A space 
of two or three acres had been cleared from logs and 
brushwood, which had been piled up so as to form an 
oblong square. One great tree, which formed the south- - 
ern side to the camp, served also as an immense back- 
log, against which our great camp-fire, and sundry other 
smaller ones, were kindled, both to cook by and to warm 
us. In the centre of the square, and next the river, was 
the governor's tent, and between it and the south side 
of the ground were the commissary's and other tents, all 
ranged in proper order. Rude tables, laid in open air, 
and a huge frame- work of poles, from which hung car- 
casses of beef, mutton, deer, elk, and salmon, with a 
cloud of wild geese, ducks, and other small game, gave 
evidence that the austerities of Lent were not to form 
any part of our services. 

Around the sides of the square were ranged the tents 
and wigwams of the Indians, each tribe having a space ' 
allotted to it. The Coast Indians were placed at the 
lower part of the camp ; first the Chenooks, then the 
i \ Chehalis, Queniult and Quaitso, Satsop or Satchap, Up- 
per Chehalis, and Cowlitz. These different tribes had 
sent representatives to the council, and there were pres- 

P 



338 ^ THE NORTHWEST COAST ; OE, 

ent about three hundred and fifty of them, and the best 
feelings prevailed among all. 

The white persons present consisted of only fourteen, 
viz., Governor Stevens, General George Gibbs (who offi- 
ciated as secretary to the commission), Judge Ford, with 
his two sons, who were assistant interpreters. Lieutenant- 
colonel B. F. Shaw, the chief interpreter, Colonel Sim- 
mons and Mr. Tappan, Indian agents. Dr. Cooper, Mr. 
Pilkington, the owner of *the claim, Colonel Cocke, my- 
self, and last, though by no means the least, Cushman, 
our commissary, orderly sergeant, provost marshal, chief 
story-teller, factotum, and life of the party — " Long may 
he wave." Nor must I omit Green M'Cafferty, the cook, 
whose name had become famous for his exploits in an 
expedition to Queen Charlotte's Island to rescue some 
sailors from the Indians. He was a good cook, and 
kept us well supplied with hot biscuit and roasted pota- 
toes, y 

The chief interpreter. Colonel Shaw, had not arrived, 
and the governor concluded to defer the treaty till he- 
came, as he was not only the principal means of com- 
munication with the Indians, but was to bring some 
chiefs with him. Colonel Cocke and a party therefore 
went down the river to Armstrong's Point to meet him, 
while we passed the day telling stories and preparing 
for the morrow. 

^Our table was spread in the open air, and at break- 
fast and supper was pretty sure to be covered with frost, 
but the hot dishes soon cleared that oif, and we found 
the clear fresh breeze very conducive to a good appetite. 

After supper we all gathered round the fire to smoke 
our pipes, toast our feet, and tell storiesTy' While thus 
engaged, we heard a gun fired down the river, and short- 
ly the party arrived, having Colonel Shaw with them. 
He had brought a few Cowlitz Indians and a couple of 



THREE TEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 341 

Chenooks ; but, as he was very tired, he had not much 
to say that evening, so we shortly went to bed, the doc- 
tor, Mr. Tappan, and myself occupying one tent. 
(^The next morning the council was commenced. The 
Indians were all drawn up in a large circle in front of 
the governor's tent and around a table on which were 
placed the articles of treaty and other papers. The gov- 
ernor. General Gibbs, and Colonel Shaw sat at the table, 
and the rest of the whites were honored with camp-stools, 
to sit around as a sort of guard, or as a small cloud of 
witnesses.. ^ 

Although we had no regimentals on, we were dressed 
pretty uniform. His excellency the governor was dress- 
ed in a red flannel shirt, dark frock-coat and pants, and 
these last tucked in his boots California fashion ; a black 
felt hat, with, I think, a pipe stuck through the band, 
and a paper of fine-cut tobacco in his coat pocket. 
- The pipe being from time immemorial an emblem of 
peace among savages, we all had ours, not, however, in 
our hat-bands ; but, as we were not expected to speak 
on the occasion, we preferred them in our mouths. We 
also were dressed, like the governor, not in ball-room or 
dress-parade uniform, but in good, warm, serviceable 
<jlothes. 

After Colonel Mike Simmons, the agent, and, as he 
has been termed, the Daniel Boone of the Territory, had 
marshaled the savages into order, an Indian interpreter 
was selected from each tribe to interpret the Jargon of 
Shaw into such language as their tribes could under- 
stand. The governor then made a speech, which was 
translated by Colonel Shaw into Jargon, and spoken to 
the Indians, in the same manner the good old elders of 
ancient times were accustomed to deacon out the hymns 
to the congregation. First the governor spoke a few 
words, then the colonel interpreted, then the Indians ; so 



342 THE NORTHWEST coast; OE, 

that this threefold repetition made it rather a lengthy 
-operation. After this speech the Indians were dismiss- 
ed till the following day, when the treaty was to be read. 
We were then requested by the governor to explain to 
those Indians we were acquainted with what he had said, 
and they seemed very well satisfied. The governor had 
purchased of Mr. Pilkington a large pile of potatoes, 
about a hundred bushels, and he told the Indians to help 
themselves. They made the heap grow small in a short 
time, each one taking what he required for food ; but, 
lest any one should get an undue share, Commissary 
Cushman and Colonel Simmons were detailed to stand 
guard on the potato pile, which they did with the utmost 
good feeling, keeping the savages in a roar of laughter 
by their humorous ways. 

(^At night we again gathered round the fire, and the 
governor requested that we should enliven the time by 
telling anecdotes, himself setting the example. Gov- 
ernor Stevens has a rich fund of interesting and amus- 
ing incidents that he has picked up in his camp life, and 
a, Very happy way of relating thern^ We all were called 
upon in turn, and when it came mine, I related tales 
that I supposed none of the party ever had heard ; and 
as I was particular about place and date, some were in- 
clined to think I had actually made them up as I went 
along ; but it appeared that the governor knew some of 
the parties I was speaking of, and, to my great aston- 
ishment, told the doubters that he would vouch for the 
truth of whatever I had related. That served very well 
for me; for, no matter how improbable a joke I afterward 
told, the remark was, " That must be true, for the gov- 
ernor will vouch for it." 

There were some tales told of a wild and romantic na- 
ture at that camp, and Judge Ford and Colonel Mike 
did their part. Old frontiersmen and early settlers, they 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 343 

had many a legend to relate of toil, privation, fun, and 
frolic ; but the palm was conceded to Cushman, who cer- 
tainly could vie with Baron Munchausen or Sinbad the 
Sailor in his wonderful romances. His imitative pow- 
ers were great, and he would take off some speaker at a 
political gathering or a camp-meeting in so ludicrous a 
style, that even the governor could not preserve his grav- 
ity, but would be obliged to join the rest in a general 
laughing chorus. Whenever Cushman began one of his 
harangues, he was sure to draw up a crowd of Indians, 
who seemed to enjoy the fun as much as we, although 
they could not understand a word he said. He usually 
wound up by stirring up the fire ; and this, blazing up 
brightly and throwing off a shower of sparks, would light 
the old forest, making the night look blacker in the dis- 
tance, and showing out in full relief the dusky, grinning 
faces of the Indians, with their blankets drawn around 
them, standing up just outside the circle where we were 
sitting. Cushman was a most capital man for a camp 
expedition, always ready, always prompt and good-na- 
tured. He said he came from Maine ; whether he did 
or not, he was certainly the main man among us. 

General Gibbs, Mr. Tappan, and Dr. Cooper also fur- 
nished their share in the entertainment, and a report of 
the anecdotes told in that camp would make as good a 
book as Joe Miller's. 

C^e second morning after our arrival the terms of the 
treaty were made known. This was read line by line 
by General Gibbs, and then interpreted by Colonel Shaw 
to the Indians. 

The features and provisions of the treaty were these : 
The Indians were to cede all the territory, commencing 
on the Pacific coast, at the divide of the Quaitso and 
Hooch Eivers, thence east between the same, along the 
line of the Quillahyute tribe, to the summit of the coast 



344 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OE, 

range ; thence south, along the line of the Chemakum 
and Skokomish tribes, to the forks of the Satsop River ; 
thence southeasterly, along the lands ceded by the Nis- 
qually Indians, to the summit of the Black Hills, and 
across the same to the banks of the Skookumchuck 
Creek ; thence up said creek to the summit of the Cas- 
cade range ; south, along the range, to the divide be- 
tween the waters of the Cowlitz and Cathlapoodl Riv- 
ers ; thence southwestwardly to the land of the Upper 
Chenooks, to the Columbia River, and down that river 
to the sea. The Indians were to be placed on a reser- 
vation between Gray's Harbor and Cape Flattery, and 
were to be paid for this tract of land forty thousand dol- 
lars in different installments. Four thousand dollars in 
addition was also to be paid them, to enable them to 
clear and fence in land and cultivate. No spirituous 
liquors were to be allowed on the reservation ; and any 
Indian who should be guilty of drinking liquor would 
have his or her annuity withheld. 

Schools, carpenters' and blacksmiths' shops were to 
be furnished by the United States ; also a saw-mill, ag- 
ricultural implements, teachers, and a doctorj All their 
slaves were to be free, and none afterward to be bought 
or sold. The Indians, however, were not to be restrict- 
ed to the reservation, but were to be allowed to procure 
their food as they had always done, and were at liberty 
at any time to leave the reservation to trade witl> or 
work for the whites. 

After this had all been interpreted to them, they were 
dismissed till the next day, in order that they might talk 
the matter over together, and have any part explained to 
them which they did not understand. The following 
morning the treaty was again read to them after a speech 
from the governor, but, although they seemed satisfied, 
they did not perfectly comprehend. The difficulty was 



I 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 345 

in having so many different tribes to talk to at the same 
time, and being obliged to use the Jargon, which at best 
is but a poor medium of conveying intelligence. The 
governor requested any one of them that wished to reply 
to him. Several of the chiefs spoke, some in Jargon 
and some in their own tribal language, which would be 
interpreted into Jargon by one of their people who was 
conversant with it ; so that, what with this diversity of 
tongues, it was difficult to have the subject properly un- 
derstood by all. But their speeches finally resulted in 
one and the same thing, which was that they felt proud 
to have the governor talk with them ; they liked his 
proposition to buy their land, but they did not want to 
go on to the reservation. The speech of Narkarty, one 
of the Chenook chiefs, will convey the idea they all had. 
"When you first began to speak," said he to the gov- 
ernor, " we did not understand you ; it was all dark to 
us as the night ; but now our hearts are enlightened, 
and what you say is clear to us as the sun. 

'* We are proud that our great father in Washington 
thinks of us. We are poor, and can see how much bet- 
ter off the white men are than we are. We are willing 
to sell our land, but we do not want to go away fi:om our 
homes. 

" Our fathers, and mothers, and ancestors are buried 
there, and by them we wish to bury our dead and be 
buried ourselves. We wish, therefore, each to have a 
place on our own land where we can live, and you may 
have the rest ; but we can't go to the north among the 
other tribes. We are not friends, and if we went to- 
gether we should fight, and soon we would all be killed." 

This same idea was expressed by all, and repeated ev- 
ery day. The Indians from the interior did not want to 
go on a reservation with the Coast or Canoe Indians. 

The governor certainly erred in judgment in attempt- 
P2 



346 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

ing to place these five different tribes on the same res- 
ervation ; but his motive v^as, that as they were so 
few, being mere remnants of once powerful bands, it 
would be better to liave them concentrated at one point. 
They, however," did not think so ; their ancient prejudices 
were as strong as ever, and they well knew that they 
never could agree to live together. They were willing 
to concentrate at a given place on their own lands, and 
it is a pity the governor did not see the benefit that 
would arise to them by so doing. A hundred Indians, 
all that remained of the Chenook tribe, if located at any 
one point, would be in nobody's way, and certainly there 
is plenty of room in their possessions. So of each of the 
other tribes. 

^^^he whole together only numbered 843 all told, as 
may be seen by the following census, which was taken on 
the ground : 

Lower Chehalis 217 

Upper do 216 

Queniults 158 * 

Chenooks 112 

Cowlitz 140 

843 

But, though few in numbers, there were men among them 
possessed of shrewdness, sense, and great influence. 
They felt that, although they were few, they were as 
fully entitled to a separate treaty as the more powerful 
tribes in the interior. We all reasoned with them to 
show the kind intentions of the governor, and how much 
better off they would be if they could content themselves 
to live in one community ; and our appeals were not al- 
together in vain ; several of the tribes consented, and 
were ready to sign the treaty ; and of these the Queni- 
ults were the most prompt, evidently, however, from the 
fact that the proposed reservation included their land, 
and they would, consequently, remain at home. 



THREP Y^AES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 347 

■ I tliink tlie governor would have eventually succeeded 
in inducing them all to sign had it not been for the son 
of Carcowan, the old Chehalis chief. This young sav- 
age, whose name is Tleyuk, and who was the recognized 
chief of his tribe, had obtained great influence among all 
the Coast Indians. He was very willing at first to sign 
the treaty, provided the governor would select his land 
for the reservation, and make him grand Tyee, or chief, 
over the whole five tribes ; but when he found he could 
not effect his purpose, he changed his behavior, and we 
soon found his bad influence among the other Indians, 
and the meeting broke up that day with marked symp- 
toms of dissatisfaction. ; This ill feeling was increased 
by old Carcowan, who smuggled some whisky into the 
camp, and made his appearance before the governor quite 
intoxicated. He was handed over to Provost-marshal 
Cushman, with orders to keep him quiet till he got sober. 
The governor was very much incensed at this breach of 
his orders, for he had expressly forbidden either whites 
or Indians bringing one drop of liquor into the camp. 

The following day Tlejruk stated that he had no faith 
in any thing the governor said, for he had been told that 
it was the intention of the United States government to 
put them all on board steamers, and send them away 
out of the country, and that the Americans were not 
their friends. He gave the names of several white per- 
sons who had been industrious in circulating these re- 
ports to thwart the governor in his plans, and most all 
of them had been in the employ of the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany. He was assured that there was no truth in the 
report, and pretended to be satisfied, but, in reality, was 
doing all in his power to break up the meeting. That 
evening the governor called the chiefs into his tent, but 
to no purpose, for Tleyuk made some insolent remarks, 
and peremptorily refused to sign the treaty, and, with 



348 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

his people, refused to have any thing to do with it. That 
night, in his camp, they behaved in a very disorderly 
manner, firing off guns, shouting, and making a great up- 
roar. 

We did not care a pin for their braggadocio, but the 
governor did ; and the next morning, when the camp 
was called, he gave Tleyuk a severe reprimand, and tak- 
ing from him his paper which had been given to show 
that the government recognized him as chief, he tore it 
to pieces before the assemblage. Tleyuk felt this dis- 
grace very keenly, but said nothing. The paper was to 
him of great importance, for they all look on a printed or 
written document as possessing some wonderful charm. 
The governor then informed them that, as all would not 
sign the treaty, it was of no effect, and the camp was 
then broke up. 

Throughout the whole of the conference Governor Ste- 
vens evinced a degree of forbearance, and a desire to do 
every thing he could for the benefit of the Indians. 
Nothing was done in a hurry. We remained in the 
camp a week, and ample time was given them each day 
to perfectly understand the views of the governor. The 
utmost good feeling prevailed, and every day they were 
induced to some games of sport to keep them good- 
humored. Some would have races on the river in their 
canoes, others danced, and others gambled; all was 
fidendly tiU the last day, when Tleyuk's bad conduct 
spoiled the whole. 

But, although the alleged reason of their refusing to 
sign the treaty was that they did not want to leave their 
homes and live on one reservation, yet there were other 
causes which operated badly. Our whole system of 
treaty -making is wrong with these frontier Indians. 
They can not be made to understand why the agents 
V sent to them to make treaties are not empowered to close 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATEE BAY. 349 

the bargain at once, instead of referring the matter back 
to Washington, and waiting the tardy action of govern- 
ment. Many of them had been at the treaty-making 
a few years before at the mouth of the Columbia, where 
Dr. Dart attempted to make a purchase of their lands ; 
but he was so totally unfitted for the duties of the office 
that his treaty was instantly repudiated at Washington, 
and himself removed. But the Indians had acted in 
good faith. They told me that they did not offer their 
lands to Dr. Dart, but he told them he would give them 
a certain price, which they agreed to, and they could not 
understand why they did not get what they were told 
they should receive. Consequently, they regarded Dr. 
Dart and his treaties as humbugs, and placed no more 
credit on what Governor Stevens told them than they 
had on Dr. Dart, when they found that the governor was 
also obliged to refer his treaties back to Washington, 
and that it might be possibly two years before they 
would be finally placed on the reservation. 

They contrasted this dilatory policy of the American 
government with the prompt and decided course of the 
Hudson Bay Company, and, as a natural conclusion, were 
led to look upon the governors and factors of the Com- 
pany as of vastly more importance than either the gov- 
ernor of the Territory or their Great Father at Wash- 
ington, who is regarded by them as a sort of a myth. 
They knew, in all their dealings with the Hudson Bay 
Company officers, that whatever was agreed upon was 
promptly executed in good faith, whether it was the pur- 
chase of a pack of beaver-skins, or a tract of country, or 
a treaty of peace and friendship. And it is this fact, 
more than any thing else, that the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany have had the power to make and execute treaties, 
without having to refer the matter to the home govern- 
ment of England, or even the provincial government of 



350 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

Canada, that has enabled them to live for so many years 
among these Indians in peace and harmony, and to ac- 
quire so great an influence over them. 

This wise policy should be imitated by our own gov- 
ernment so far as to empower the governors and Indian 
agents to make treaties with Indians that shall take ef- 
fect at the time of the agreement, and this can easily 
be done. Let Congress ascertain what the Territory is 
worth, and then appropriate a sum of money to be ex- 
pended in its purchase, and allow the agents to have the 
same judgment in the expenditure as is now done to 
commissioners, either for purchasing a site for a light- 
house, custom-house, or post-office, or for constructing a 
military road. It is folly to think of treating with those 
wild Indians of the Northwest with the same formality 
we are wont to adopt toward a foreign nation. They 
know nothing of law or law terms : all they want is to 
have matters as simple as possible. If they agree to 
take a stated sum for their lands, they consider the trade 
the same as to sell a horse, or canoe, or peltry ; it is to 
them nothing more or less than a trade, and they want 
their money, or blankets, or whatever equivalent that 
may be agreed upon paid, and the trade closed. This 
referring back treaties for alteration is particularly dis- 
gusting to them, for it never has been known that the 
Home Department ever have proposed to pay them any 
more than the agent first agreed to ; and I have no hes- 
itation in asserting that, had Congress agreed upon a 
certain sum to have been paid to extinguish the Indian 
titles in Washington Territory, and had empowered Gov- 
ernor Stevens, when he first went to the Territory, to 
have closed all the treaties as soon as he should have 
made them, he would not only have efiected a final 
settlement with the whole body of Indians in that sec- 
tion of our country amicably, but have made a saving 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 351 

of millions to the Treasury, which, will have been ex- 
pended before the present war is brought to a close. I 
think Governor Stevens's course admirably adapted to 
conciliate the Indians, and, although I have asserted that 
he erred in judgment in wishing to place the five tribes 
on one reservation, yet his whole thought and object was 
for their good, and there can be no doubt that, had they 
acceded to his views, they would have been benefited.. 
And I firmly believe, from what I saw of Governor 
Stevens during the week we remained at that camp, and 
from his general feeling toward the Indians, that, had he 
been allowed to have carried out his plans unmolested 
or thwarted by any one, there would not have been a 
hostile blow struck in the Territory. It is to be regret- 
ted that men of intelligence and influence should have 
been found in the Territory willing, rather than side with 
the governor and assist him, to countenance certain "lewd 
fellows of the baser sort" to defame, detract, and throw 
every obstacle in his way. 

When it was determined to break up the camp, we 
prepared ourselves for the journey home. As Dr. Cooper 
concluded to go up the river, Mr. Tappan and myself 
were the only white persons of the party who intended 
returning to Shoal- water Bay. The governor directed 

Mr. T to pay Caslah^han for bringing us up, and to 

make a new bargain with him for our return. The one- 
eyed savage, who had been making his calculations on 
receiving sundry blankets and sacks of flour, found him- 
self more than paid by two calico shirts that Mr. Tappan 
gave him ; but, as he had agreed to take what the gov- 
ernor thought proper, he could not complain. 

The weather, which had been rainy for the last two 
days, now gave indications, by the quick-flying scud, 
and sighing, moaning sound of wind in the tops of the 
lofty firs, that a southeast storm was fast approaching, 



k 



352 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

but there was no help for us except to start for home ; 
so, taking with us the Chenook and Shoal-water Bay 
Indians, we filled Caslah^han's big canoe, and proceeded 
on our course down the river. 

The Chehalis River is a fine stream, and navigable for 
vessels of three or four hundred tons as far as where we 
had camped, which was called ten miles. The water 
appears to be quite deep, and at a bend of the river near 
the camp a perpendicular hill rises very abruptly from 
the stream, and at its base the water, as I was informed 
by the Indians, is upward of fifty feet deep. The river 
widens as it approaches Gray's Harbor, with frequent 
shoals, and is much obstructed by drift-logs, which, I be- 
lieve, could very easily be cleared away, rendering the 
navigation quite easy and safe. Some ten or fifteen 
miles above our camp are the excellent saw-mills of Mr. 
Armstrong, where timber of all kinds is sawed in the 
best manner. The cedar and ash plank, and boat-stuff 
I have seen from Armstrong's, was equal to any I ever 
met with, while the fir and spruce lumber can not be 
surpassed by any mill in the Union. Some of our East- 
ern mill men would be doubtful about attempting to cut 
a log of spruce measuring six feet through the centre, 
but Mr. Armstrong informed me that he had saws capa- 
ble of performing such work, although, he confessed, he 
preferred operating on three and four feet logs, as he 
could handle them easier. 

The country along the river toward its mouth is cov- 
ered with a dense forest of spruce and fir, with here and 
there little prairie patches of fertile and easily-cultivated 
land. We passed two or three houses of the white set- 
tlers, but they were absent from home, and we hurried 
along, as we were anxious to get across the Bay before 
dark, so as to remain at Carcowan's lodge over night, for 
there was no other place of shelter till we reached Shoal- 



THREE TEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAT. 353 

water Bay ; but when we reached the mouth of the river 
we felt the full force of the southeast wind, which was 
blowing so strong as to render it extremely hazardous 
to attempt crossing the Bay. Some of the Indians who 
came down at the same time we did went to a little isl- 
and near the mouth of the river, on the north side, where 
they camped ; but it being out of the way, we crept along 
the shore toward the south, hoping to find some good 
place of shelter for the night. But we were not very 
fortunate, for we were obliged at last to go ashore on a 
low, sandy beach, where there were a few stunted pines 
and low bushes. We built a fire with difficulty, and, 
having found some fresh water, managed to get some- 
thing to eat for supper. 

Mr. Tappan had fortunately brought from the camp 
two or three cans of preserved meat, and the Indians had 
with them some potatoes and a few dried salmon. We 
made a sort of shelter with the canoe sail, and tried to 
get some sleep ; but we had scarcely lain down when a 
violent squall of wind and rain came up, which demolish- 
ed our tent, aud it was with the greatest difficulty we 
could keep our blankets around us ; so we were obliged 
to remain all night exposed to the fury of the elements, 
wet, cold, and miserable. 

As soon as the day began to dawn the wind abated, 
and, although it was still raining, we at once bundled 
into the canoe and paddled across the Bay, and landed 
at a marsh, through which we waded, and at last, having 
reached a piece of upland, stopped to get some breakfast. 
We had then to walk eighteen miles to reach Shoal-wa- 
ter Bay, and, the tide being up, could not take the beach, 
but had to keep on the plains, with the full blast of the 
wind and rain, which had now again commenced with 
fury, directly in our faces. We here met some Indians 
who had camped the previous night on the island at the 



354 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

mouth of the Chehalis River, and learned from them that 
a doctor of the Chehalis tribe had shot a young chief of 
the Quaitso Indians out of mere bravado, and because 
the Quaitso and Queniults had been in favor of the trea- 
ty. This piece of intelligence did not tend to exhilarate 
the feelings of the Indians in our party, so we all moved 
on, very ill at ease, through the wet grass and bushes. At 
noon we reached the little brook where we had stopped 
when we went up, and near it found a rude hovel, which 
had been put up by some Indians while they were boil- 
ing out the blubber of a whale which had been thrown 
ashore by the waves. Into this miserable old shanty we 
crept, and, having built a fire, made a hearty dinner on 
our preserved meats. We remained here much longer 
than we should have done, for, when we reached the 
creek where the Indians had left their canoes, it was 
nearly dark. Here the Indians were determined to re- 
main all night and sleep under their canoes ; for, although 
it was only a couple of miles farther to the lodge, they 
were too tired, and preferred to remain till morning, and 
then take their canoes home with them. 

Tappan and myself had no idea of stopping at that 
place, and as we knew of a path which Mr. Barrows had 
made from the beach through the woods to his house, we 
preferred to go on and get into good quarters. But it 
soon grew very dark, and, although we could discern 
the white line of the beach, yet we failed to discover the 
path, and, consequently, kept on till we reached the end 
of the point, about a mile out of our course. The route 
to Mr. Barrows's house was now across a marsh, and 
through a clump of pines, and we went stumbling along, 
like the babes in the wood, and, after falling into a couple 
of ditches, at last reached the pines. Here we shout- 
ed and hallooed, but received no answer, and concluded 
that we had best make a night of it under the trees. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. ^355 

when we discovered the glimmer of a light, and soon aft- 
er reached the house, where we were most hospitably re- 
ceived. It was quite evident why our shouting had not 
been heard, for, with the aid of a violin and trombone, 
the family were raising their voices in melody, chanting 
some pious anthems, for it was Sunday night. It is 
needless to add how, in that hospitable house, we were 
speedily made comfortable, and how, after we had con- 
gratulated each other on our change of fortune in not 
having to pass the night in our wet clothes under the 
bushes, we retired early and were soon asleep. 

When Colonel Shaw passed through the Bay on his 
way to the camp, he had hired a whale-boat at Wilson's 
portage, which he had hauled up on the beach near the 
mouth of the Bay. It was Mr. Tappan's intention to 
have taken the boat back, and carried with him the In- 
dians bound for Chenook; so, the next morning, he 
started out in search for her, and, after having been ab- 
sent nearly all day, returned with the report that she was 
stove to atoms by the waves. The gale now seemed to 
increase in fury, and for three days we were obliged to 
remain, without daring to venture across the Bay, till at 
length we managed to get over in one of the canoes, and 
I reached home entirely satisfied with my experience, 
and with no further inclination to go out on another 
treaty-making expedition during the rainy season. 

The travelers about that section of the country fre- 
quently had as bad or worse times than I had. Colonel 
Anderson, the United States marshal, while taking the 
census of Washington Territory in 1853, related to me 
his adventures to Shoal-water Bay from the Chehalis 
Eiver. It was during the last of September that he ar- 
rived at the house of Judge Sidney Ford, on the Che- 
halis River, near the Skookum Chuck Creek. The 
judge, or, as he was more familiarly called, Uncle Sid, 



356 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

kept a public house on the Cowlitz road, which was the 
regular mail-route from Olympia to the Columbia River. 
Uncle Sid is well known throughout the whole Territory 
as one of the most hospitable men that ever received a 
weary traveler to his fireside; and many a poor, half- 
starved emigrant can testify to the kind and generous 
sympathy with which their wants and sufferings were 
relieved, with the usual parting remark of the good old 
judge, " Never mind any pay ; I know what it is to be 
hard up on a journey. Good-by ; keep a bright look- 
out, and good luck to you ! " 

Judge Ford's universal kind treatment of the Indians 
won for him their entire confidence, and, during the late 
disturbances, he has been of great service in maintaining 
quiet among the turbulent vagabonds that live in the re- 
gion about him. 

When Colonel Anderson had reached Uncle Sid's 
house, he procured an Indian and a canoe to take him 
down the river to Gray's Harbor, and as neither himself 
nor the judge knew much about the route, he concluded 
it was best to take some provisions, although he was in- 
formed that there were settlers near the Bay. However, 
the judge insisted on giving him some bread and a pair 
of roast chickens, and with this the colonel left and pro- 
ceeded to the mouth of the river, where he stopped at 
the house of a settler ; but he found the family almost 
entirely destitute of provisions ; so, sharing his chickens 
among the children, he started on, taking with him, be- 
sides the Indian, a white man, who wished to go to Shoal- 
water Bay to try and purchase some stores. This man 
informed the colonel that it was but a short walk to 
Shoal-water Bay, and that they could easily get across 
to the settlement, and that there was a house on the 
beach, near Toke's Point, where they could stop over 
night. 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 357 

It was nearly dark when they reached the house, but 
it was empty ; however, they stopped there over night, 
having nothing for supper but the recollections of the 
nice chickens they had left with the children ; " but," 
said the colonel, " I felt that I was much more able to 
go without my supper than the children were, so I went 
to sleep." The next morning they walked around the 
beach till they came in sight of the houses on the oppo- 
site shore of the Bay, and, building a great fire to attract 
the attention of the settlers, set off in different directions 
to procure something to eat. 

The colonel tried to find some crabs, but it was too 
late in the season for them ; and, as the Indian was a 
stranger, he did not know where to look for clams. 
They found a few berries, with which they kept off the 
cravings of hunger, and waited all that day, not patient- 
ly, but anxiously, for some signs of recognition from the 
other shore ; but no notice was taken of the signals, and 
they had to pass another night without any thing to eat 
but berries. 

The next morning they began to feel quite anxious, 
and started off to find something to appease their raven- 
ous appetites. At last the colonel saw a " butter-duck" 
in a shallow creek, and immediately gave chase to it. 
These ducks are the black surf-duck {Fuligula jpers^i- 
cillatd). They rise from the water at all times with 
difficulty, but in the fall of the year they get so fat that 
they at times can not fly at all, hence the common name 
of butter-duck. They are hard to shoot, being expert 
divers, nor are they good for much when killed, as their 
flesh is coarse and fishy. The colonel's hunger gave 
him speed, and knowing if he got the duck ashore it 
could not fly, he at once rushed into the creek between 
the bird and deep water. Here a most exciting chase 
commenced, the duck firequently diving, and the colonel 



358 THE NORTHWEST COAST ; OR, 

frequently getting ducked by stepping into some unseen 
hole ; but perseverance and hunger enabled him to over- 
come all obstacles, and he finally got the duck ashore 
and killed it with a stick. Puffing and blowing, he re- 
turned to the fire, when the Indian ofiered to pick the 
feathers ofi"; but that was too slow a process for a hun- 
gry man, and the quicker method of singeing them in the 
blaze was adopted. The colonel was so hungry that he 
could scarcely wait to have it cooked ; but, hastily di- 
viding it, they devoured the ^half-raw meat with great 
satisfaction. While thus engaged they saw a boat ap- 
proaching ; but the colonel was determined to eat his 
hutter-duck after the race he had for it, and when the 
boat reached the shore he presented a very greasy ap- 
pearance to the party, who, it appeared, had come over 
for a few days' shooting. They said they had seen the 
fire, but supposed it was only Indians, and took no no- 
tice of it. 

They soon furnished the colonel and his two men with 
something to eat and drink, and then carried them 
across the Bay, where, after taking the census, the colo- 
nel started for the Columbia ; but a southeast rain-storm 
coming on, he concluded to go as far as the Palux River, 
and stop with Mr. Brown till fair weather. Here he 
met with another adventure, which was a common occur- 
rence at that time, and I will let the colonel relate his 
own story. 

" After I had passed three days with the oyster-boys," 
said he, " where each one tried to outdo the others in 
hospitalities, I left with Steve Marshall and Big Char- 
ley, who were to take me to the portage. As we round- 
ed Goose Point, the wind blew so strong against us that 
we thought best to run up the Palux to Brown's house, 
and stop over night. Brown had recently put up a little 
eight by ten zinc house, and when we reached there he 



THEEE TEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 359 

had just finished eating his supper. It was raining vi- 
olently, and all our clotlies and blankets were wet. 

" Brown and his men went to work and cooked us up 
some supper, while we tried to dry ourselves a little. It 
was near nine o'clock when we had finished eating, and 
while we were preparing to go to sleep we heard through 
the din of the stonn, which was now furious, the sound 
of voices, and directly a party of four men came in, half 
famished, and drenched through. Brown immediately 
went to work and cooked them a supper, and when we 
were all again ready to turn in for the night it was near- 
ly twelve o'clock, for we had been talking and smoking 
with the new-comers. "Well, we had not lain down 
when another halloo outside announced the arrival of 
more travelers. Who can that be, this time of night ? 
The door opened, and in came old Captain Crocker and 
Captain Gardiner, who had just arrived from the Co- 
lumbia, wet through and half starved. By the time 
they had eaten and were ready for sleep it was half past 
two o'clock, and when we did lie down it was pretty 
close packing, and the heat of the stove, with the steam 
from our wet clothes, nearly suffocated us. Sleep was 
Rnpossible, for Captain Crocker began to relate sea-sto- 
ries, which that ancient mariner was always ready to do, 
and kept us awake all the rest of the night. The howl- 
ing of the tempest, the rattle of the rain on the zinc 
house, and the captain's grufi* voice, reminded me of 
Dante's Inferno. But we survived, and the next after- 
noon, the weather having cleared ofi^, we took the flood 
tide and went to the portage, and in a couple of days 
more, having finished my census-taking, I reached As- 
toria, where I was glad to lie by a little to get rested." 

During the time Colonel Anderson held the office of 
United States marshal, he probably traveled through 
Washington Territory more than any other individual, 



360 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

and the anecdotes just related are to show how he, as 
well as the rest of us, had some rough times during the 
early settlement of the countr j. 



CHAPTER XX. 

The Whale.— Toke in the Whale's Belly.— Blubber Feast.— Doctor 
Johnson and myself as Counsel. — Higher Law.— Champ's Decision. 
— Loss of Schooner Empire. — Captain Davis. — Captain Ebon P. Ba- 
ker. — M'Cart/s Child among the Indians. — Her Rescue. — Feelings 
of the Indians toward Whites. — Remarks on the Indian Character. — 
They can live peaceably with Whites. — Course adopted by the Hud- 
son Bay Company toward Indians. — Suggestions about a System of 
Sub-agencies. — Correct Views of the Hudson Bay Company respect- 
ing Indians. — The Conduct of the Company toward Americans. — 
They do not wish Americans among them. — Histoiy of the Hudson 
Bay Company and their Proceedings toward Americans. — Cause of 
the Outbreak among the Indians. — Grold Mines. — General Palmer. — 
General Wool. — Remarks, &c. 

About a month after my return from the treaty, a 
whale was washed ashore on the beach between Toke's 
Point and Gray's Harbor, and all the Indians about the 
Bay went to get their share. I had a curiosity to see 
their method of proceeding, and, accordingly, went to the 
scene of operations. The whale was a small one, of the 
humpback species, and had come ashore at the top of 
high water, and was pretty high up on the beach. The 
Indians were camped near by, out of the reach of the 
tide, and were all very busy on my arrival, securing the 
blubber, either to carry home to their lodges, or boiling 
it out on the spot, provided they happened to have blad- 
ders or barrels to put the oil in. Those who were in- 
tending to transport the blubber were hiding it by bury- 
ing it in the sand till they were ready to go to their 
homes. This capped the climax of all dirty, greasy, 
filthy sights I ever saw among Indians. Toke, who was 



i 




k 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAT. 363 

on the ground early, had taken up a claim near the 
whale's fore fin, and, having carved out a space to stand 
in, was securely housed, like Jonah of old, in the whale's 
belly, his head and arms projecting out between the 
fish's ribs, while the remainder of the body was hidden in 
the whale's carcass. There he was, entirely naked, be- 
smeared with blood and grease, and as happy as possi- 
ble. Other Indians were cutting and carving away at 
the blubber, which they would pack on the backs of their 
slaves and retainers in pieces of about fifty pounds each, 
to be carried by them to their respective tents. 

Those who were trying out the blubber cut it into 
strips about two inches wide, one and a half inches thick, 
and a foot long. These strips were then thrown into a 
kettle of boiling water, and as the grease tried out it was 
skimmed oif with clam-shells and thrown into a tub to 
cool and settle. It was then carefully skimmed off 
again, and put into the barrels or bladders for use. After 
the strips of blubber have been boiled, they are hung up 
in the smoke to dry, and are then eaten. I have tried 
this sort of food, but must confess that, like crow-meat, 
"I didn't hanker arter it." I should as soon attempt 
making a meal off an old India-rubber shoe, dipped in 
train oil, as to attempt masticating dried whale's blub- 
ber ; but the Indians like it, and the whole party, chil- 
dren and all, were besmeared with grease from head to 
foot, and had a most ancient and fish-like smell about 
them. 

Carcowan's people were present, and Tleyuk had a 
deal to say about the treaty. He was very valiant, and 
assured me that the Indians did not care for the Bos- 
tons, and meant to have a fight with them. I paid no 
attention to his conversation, as I considered it a mere 
ebuUition of his wrath at the governor for taking away 
his recognition as chief. 



364 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

I did not remain many hours about the whale ; the 
sight and smell for about fifteen minutes satisfied me that 
I had learned all that was worth knowing about the In- 
dian method of procuring whale oil. 

Doctor Johnson and myself had, about this time, our 
fiercest legal conflict before 'Squire Champ. The case 
was that of ' ' Weldon versus Watkins." The doctor con- 
sidered himself the legal representative of Captain Wel- 
don, who had gone to San Francisco, and Mr. Watkins, 
who was present, had asked me to aid him in sustaining 
his case before the learned court. The facts were these: 
Weldon and Watkins were connected in business so far 
as related to a saw-mill which Watkins had built and 
had in operation, but refused to account for, or settle with 
Weldon. An injunction had been prayed for in the 
United States Court, but, for some reason unknown to 
me, had not been granted. Watkins continued to make 
and sell boards, and Weldon, like Giant Despair in Pil- 
grim's ProgTCSs, bit his nails and gnashed his teeth when 
he saw the rafts of boards float by his residence without 
the power either of getting his just dues or of converting 
the boards to his own use. But soon the fall came, and 
with it the "latter rain." The higher law prevailed; for, 
owing to an interposition of Providence and a rise in the 
creek, the mill was raised from its foundations and float- 
ed bodily down the river till it reached the Bay, where 
it was seized upon by Fiddler Smith and John Green, 
two men in Weldon's employ, and by them towed to the 
beach at Weldon's store, and safely made fast. Weldon 
now had the mill, and Watkins had a pile of lumber. 
So far, so good. But, at length, Watkins, desirous to 
move from the Bay, swapped ofi" his boards for oxen, and . 
it was when the raft of boards came down the river that 
Doctor Johnson and myself were called upon to lay the 
claims of the several parties before 'Squire Champ. 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 365 

Every thing had prospered until the raft had nearly 
crossed the Bay, when, an adverse wind coming up, it 
was drifted ashore almost in front of the doctor's house, 
who immediately seized it in the name of his client. 

I was requested to appear for the defense, and accord- 
ingly met the doctor at old Champ's the next day, when 
Watkins and all interested were requested to make their 
plea. 

The doctor appeared with his old volume of Iowa 
statutes, which he read off with a marked emphasis and 
good punctuation ; but Watkins, who had just returned 
from Olympia, where he had been as our representative 
to the Territorial Legislature, had brought with him the 
Laws of the Territory, which we considered of more im- 
portance than the Iowa statutes. 

Champ heard both sides, and, after taking an hour to 
consult with himself, announced his decision that he had 
nothing to do with the case ; so Watkins won the boards 
and paid me. But the doctor was not so well off; for 
he not only lost his case, but Weldon, on his return, re- 
fused to recognize him as counsel, and he got no pay for 
his trouble. 

That made no difference, however, in our friendship, 
for we were always on the best of terms ; and that fall 
we chose the doctor for our representative to the Terri- 
torial Legislature, a post which he filled to the satisfac- 
tion of all. 

On the third of August, as the schooner Empire was 
going out of the harbor, on her way to San Francisco, 
with a load of oysters, she struck on the spit at the north 
side of the entrance, where she remained fast. It was 
nearly calm at the time, and the captain, who had traded 
in the Bay for many voyages, and was a good pilot, 
thought he could drop out with the tide ; but the swell 
set him on the point, and the schooner was finally lost 



L 



S66 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

This wreck, and that of the brig Palos, before men- 
tioned, were the only two vessels ever lost in going in or 
out of the harbor, and both were wrecked in a calm, 
smooth time, simply because their captains thought there 
was no danger. Captain Davis, the master of the Em- 
pire, then went to San Francisco, and returned on the 
13th of September in the schooner Maryland, belonging 
to the same owners ; but he betrayed the trust reposed 
in him, and on the 20th, after the schooner had her car- 
go on board, he absconded, taking with him the money 
he should have used to pay for his cargo. Those per- 
sons who had put the oysters on board the vessel then 
called a meeting, and appointed Captain Eben P. Baker 
to take the schooner to San Francisco, which he did, 
and afterward made several successful voyages ; but at 
length, on a voyage from San Francisco to Shoal-water 
Bay in December, was washed overboard during a gale 
of wind, and drowned. 

I have before remarked on the great value these In- 
dians place in any document, either printed or written, 
and in one instance I made it of service. M*Carty's lit- 
tle girl, who had been at school with the children of Mr. 
Holman, and had acquired some knowledge of books, 
was, on the death of her father, placed with the family 
of Judge Weston, the probate judge of the county. Her 
mother did not like to have her there, and managed to 
get her away, and for many months she had been living 
with her grandfather's people at Gray's Harbor, and had 
become in all respects a perfect little squaw. The judge 
had offered rewards, and had sent people for her several 
times without effecting any thing. We all thought it a 
shame that the child should be left with the Indians, 
but could not do any thing except by force, which we 
did not feel authorized to attempt. A few days before 
my leaving the Bay for San Francisco, I found the fam- 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 367 

Hy of old Carcowan, the grandfather of the child, camped 
near Russell's house, and the little girl herself playing 
with some Indian children in a brook near by. I then 
saw the mother, and asked her why she kept the child 
away from Mr. Weston, for she would never get any of 
her father's property if she was always with the Indians, 
for white people would steal all they could get. She 
told me that she was ashamed to have her child live with 
the whites unless she could pay them, but that she had 
nothing, and therefore kept the child. " The only way," 
said I, '* for you ever to get any thing for the child is to 
send her back." This she promised to do if I would 
give her Si paper or letter to the judge. I promised her 
I would ; but, supposing she had no intention of doing 
any such thing, I did not write the note, neither did I 
see them for several days. But it appeared they had 
been talking the matter over ; for when I next met them 
they asked for the letter, and informed me that they were 
all going with the child. Finding they were really in 
earnest, I wrote a letter to the judge stating the facts, 
and the next day they all went to Chenook. Colonel 
Stevens, who was going to Astoria, accompanied them, 
and afterward wrote me that they had given up the child 
as they had agreed to, and she had been sent to school 
somewhere up the river. She was a bright, intelligent 
little girl, and I was glad to learn that she was placed 
away from the influence of her Indian relatives. 

The provisions of Governor Stevens's treaty which 
he wished to make with the Indians at Chehalis were 
good, if they could be carried out with the same views 
with which they were originated. They would have an- 
swered exceedingly well for a colony of white emigrants, 
and, with the intention of civilizing and Christianizing 
the Indians, they had a most laudable aim; but one 
great difficulty is, that an Indian is essentially different 



368 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

from a white man in all his habits, customs, feelings, and 
desires. 

They like to have the white men come among them 
and cultivate lands, and thej like to trade with the whites 
for their commodities, but farther than this thej do not 
want. They neither wish to adopt the white man's style 
of living, or his language, or religion. 

They feel as we would if a foreign people came among 
us, and attempted to force their customs on us whether 
we liked them or not. We are willing the foreigners 
should come, and settle, and live with us ; but if they 
attempted to force upon us their language and religion, 
and make us leave our old homes and take up new ones, 
we would certainly rebel ; and it would only be by a 
long intercourse of years that our manners could be made 
to approximate. 

Because we always live in houses, and do our cook- 
ing and make our fires where a chimney will carry off 
the smoke, and always keep our feet and heads protect- 
ed and our bodies well clothed, and believe in the Chris- 
tian religion, we think that it is right and proper to 
teach the Indians to do the same, simply for the reason 
that we think it for their good. 

But they have been educated differently, and believe 
in building their fires in the centre of their lodges, where 
the smoke can be of benefit to dry their provisions for 
the winter. And they think it best at times to go half 
naked, and for nearly half the year to live in the open 
air, protected only by rush mats, and to look upon the 
Christian religion, as taught them by the priest, with its 
images, and pictures, and symbols, as something very 
nearly resembling their own Tomanawos style of relig- 
ion ; and to the Protestant form of worship, with its ap- 
peals to the intellect, instead of graven images of men, 
and birds, and beasts, as something they can not com- 
prehend, and do not wish to understand. 



L 



THREE YE^S AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 369 

Take the whole body of American Indians, and con- 
sider the immense amount of treasure and blood that has 
been expended to civilize, to say nothing of Christian- 
izing them, then see how few, how very few have be- 
come actually benefited compared with what was to have 
been expected. The whole nature of the man must un- 
dergo a radical change before he can be made even to ap- 
proximate in his feelings and views with those of the 
white man. That the Indian can be absorbed into the 
white race with advantage to the Indian can be shown 
by the present condition of the Creeks, the Choctaws, 
and Chickasaws, but it has been brought about by a 
long series of years, and by a large admixture of white 
blood with the Indian stock; and they always have 
been more or less accustomed to agriculture, from hav- 
ing depended upon their corn as a principal means of 
subsistence ; and a change in those tribes to a sort of 
demi-civilization was much more easily effected than it 
can be with the buffalo-hunting, salmon-catching, or blub- 
ber-eating natives of the Northwest. 

It has been supposed by many that the whites and 
Red Men of the western frontier can not live together in 
one community in peace ; but this is not so, as the course 
of the Hudson Bay Company will tend to show. That 
immense monopoly has spread itself all over that great 
region of the north, from the Pacific to the Atlantic, and 
for many years has been in constant intercourse with the 
savage tribes throughout that country, a territory larger 
than the whole of the United States, and, instead of wars 
of extermination or constant border raids and feuds, a 
lasting friendship has been maintained, which appears to 
grow stronger every day. And the cause of this is very 
evident, and seems to me to point out a way by which 
the Americans can live in peace with these tribes, for we 
must recollect that we are now on the Pacific shore, and 

Q2 



370 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

there is no farther retreat to the west to which the In- 
dian can be removed. The secret of the success of the 
Hudson Bay Company in its friendly attempts with the 
Indian is that they have always impressed him with 
the belief that he is of some importance to them. He 
procures for them their furs, and they, in return, give him 
such articles of barter as he may wish, and each, feeling 
the benefit the other is to him, wishes to be at peace. 
It is undoubtedly a very selfish kind of friendship, but 
it is no less a true one. We, of course, can not expect 
every American settler to be a fur-trader or a shopkeep- 
er, for the great body of emigrants across the Rocky 
Mountains are farmers ; but the idea of making the In- 
dians useful can be carried out, I think, with success. 

It is erroneously supposed by some that an Indian is 
only fit to labor, and that labor to be agricultural ; but 
constant labor of any kind is entirely repugnant to his 
nature ; and, although I have always found them ready 
to work for the whites when they are paid, yet they can 
not and will not work like a white man ; every thing 
they do, from paddling a canoe to hunting an elk or build- 
ing a canoe, is done by sudden fits and starts. An In- 
dian, if put in a field to work, will do so with the great- 
est energy for ten or fifteen minutes, and then must sit 
still an hour to rest himself. White men, who do not 
understand them, call them lazy, and wish nothing to do 
with them ; say they are of no account, and not worth 
keeping. 

Still, much work can be got out of an Indian by en- 
couragement and praise. Show them how you wish a 
piece of work done, and praise them when they have fin- 
ished, and they are, just like children, very easily in- 
duced to try again ; but scold, find fault, or blame an 
Indian, and he is done ; you get no more work from him 
tUl his temper is sweetened. 



THKEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAT. 371 

Agricultural labor is not that kind best suited for an 
Indian ; he likes something which taxes his ingenuity. 
He will spend whole days in fashioning a paddle or a 
spear, or taking the lock of his gun to pieces, just for 
the amusement of cleaning it and screwing it together 
again. Those that I have seen were fond of using tools, 
and readily learned the use of axe, and saw, and plane ; 
and, whenever they had an opportunity, were fond of 
forging knives and daggers from files and rasps, and 
could easily do many simple kinds of blacksmith work.* 
But, although they are ready to work for the whites, I 
never saw them willing to work for themselves, and it is 
folly to place a body of Indians on a reservation with 
the expectation that they are going immediately to work 
as white men. They do not seem to appreciate the ben- 
efit of a division of labor. Each one works by himself 
and for himself. If he is making a canoe, no one but 
his slaves will help him, unless he pays them ; so if he 
wishes to plant potatoes or make a net. This peculiar 
feeling was exhibited to us in their method of dealing 
for their oysters. Instead of several joining together 
and filling a canoe, and equally dividing the proceeds, 
each one works for himself, and must be paid for what 
he may have procured; so with their salmon. I have 
frequently had a canoe containing three or four Indians, 
and perhaps a hundred salmon in one pile : and when 
they were taken out, each man knew his own by some 
mark he had put upon it, and they would first have to 

* I have noticed one peculiarity in an Indian's method of using tools. 
They never cut from them while using a knife, as we do while whit- 
tling, but invariably cut toward themselves, holding a stick as we would 
a quill while making a pen ; or, when the wood is too large to hold in 
that manner, they will work with a knife as we would with a draw- 
shave. They also prefer to sit upon the ground while at work rather 
than stand up, and invariably do so when engaged in any kind of work 
which will permit them to be seated. - 



372 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

be assorted into separate heaps, and a trade made with 
each owner for his respective share. They would not, 
if placed in villages or communities by themselves, be 
any other than what they now are, without the presence 
of whites among them to give encouragement to their la- 
bors. 

The Hudson Bay Company, in their treatment of the 
Indians, have combined and reconciled policy with hu- 
manity. Their prohibition to supply them with ardent 
spirits appears to have been in all cases rigidly enforced ; 
and, although many of the employes of the company 
have furnished the Indians at times with spirits, yet 
such servants have invariably been dismissed or de- 
graded when found out. Encouragement is also held 
out by the Company to induce their people, who are 
mostly French Canadians, to intermarry with the native 
women, as a means of securing the friendship and trade 
of the different tribes. 

As there are, or rather were, few or no white women 
in those Territories, it will be easily seen that a great 
many half breeds are now growing up, who will in time 
form an important part of the population. The Compa- 
ny afford means for the education of these half-breed 
children, and, as far as possible, retain them among the 
whites ; and, wherever found capable, give them employ 
in the service of the Company. 

Many of the former employes of the Company, who 
have retired from service, have taken farms, where they 
have successfully reared the half-breed children, and 
some of them have good educations and are well accom- 
plished. These people are generally surrounded by the 
Indian relatives of their wives, and the force of their 
example is seen gradually to operate on the savages. 
Their natural shyness and distrust of the white man has 
been in a great degree removed. They have abandoned 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 373 

the use of all their former arras, hunting and fishing im- 
plements, and the use of skins and furs for articles of 
dress, and now depend entirely upon the guns and am- 
munition, fish-hooks, blankets, and calico which they re- 
ceive in trade with the whites. They have all been ed- 
ucated to look upon the Hudson Bay Company and its 
oflScials as a great and powerful people, who are their 
best friends, who treat them the best, pay them the best 
prices for their furs, and who give them the best articles 
in return ; and the long intercourse they have had with 
the Company, and the constant use of fire-arms, have 
made them, what they really are, a formidable foe. It 
might be supposed that these Indians, who have ac- 
quired some habits of industry from their intercourse 
with the whites, would be inclined to do something for 
themselves ; but I have always remarked that, when 
they are removed from the white people and get togeth- 
er, they invariably return to their vagabond, wandering 
life. 

The conduct of the Hudson Bay people, in their treat- 
ment of the Indians, is certainly worthy of commenda- 
tion. But it should be remembered that their object is 
not one of a missionary nature, and that, of the immense 
territory placed under their authority, they care to devote 
but a small portion to agriculture. What they desire 
to obtain are the furs ; and as those articles can be pro- 
cured in greater quantities and at a less cost by the In- 
dians than by any other means, there is a direct and ev- 
ident motive of interest to preserve and concihate them, 
and they certainly have employed the best methods to 
attain those ends. It is neither the policy or object of 
our government to encourage a monopoly like the Hud- 
son Bay Company, or to make a trade themselves, but I 
think a system could be introduced by which the evi- 
dently excellent method of the Hudson Bay Company 



i 



374 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OB, 

and the Indian sub-agency, could Ibe so combined as to 
produce the same effect. If the Indians are to be placed 
on a reservation, with the mill and blacksmith shop, and 
other adjuncts of civilization, as proposed by Governor 
Stevens, let there be a resident sub-agent at every res- 
ervation, and let that agent be allowed to keep a stock 
of such articles as the Indians need, and encourage them 
to bring in furs, or perform work, or learn to be mechan- 
ics, and always be ready to pay them for any work done. 
The mere paying the Indians an annuity, either in mon- 
ey or merchandise, amounts to nothing, so far as any 
good is expected to be derived toward civilizing them. 
In fact, it rather encourages idleness among them, and 
they are almost certain to barter off their annuities for 
such articles as they may prefer. 

It is of little use to place Indians on reservations, and 
commence to civilize them by means of schoolmasters 
and missionaries, unless they can find that they are gain- 
ing something. Tell an Indian that he must go to work 
for himself, and it will be a good thing, and he simply 
will not believe a word about it ; but if he knows that 
with the product of his labor he can go to the store and 
procure what he desires, he will not only go to work, but 
will then be ready to be taught some new ideas, with the 
hope that he can get more articles in trade. What he 
considers a good thing is something real, tangible, that 
he can take hold of and call his own. A good heart the 
missionary teUs him of is very well, but a good blanket 
or a gun is better. 

Some persons, and even members of Congress, think 
that whipping is a very good remedial means to apply 
to civilize the Indians ; others, that the Indian is only 
fit for whisky-drinking. But there seems to be no par- 
ticular necessity either for exterminating them by war or 
whisky just at present. 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 375 

The course pursued by the Hudson Bay Company 
shows that they understand the Indian character to per- 
fection ; and if, by adopting some of their views, our 
government can bring about a state of feeling among our 
own Indians similar to those of the tribes in British 
North America toward the Hudson Bay Company, it 
would seem to be worthy the trial, an-d would be pro- 
ductive of good both to the Indian and our own people. 

The Hudson Bay Company have no false, romantic 
ideas of Indians, or that bogus species of philanthropy 
which, looking upon an Indian or a negro as the brother 
and equal of a white man, thinks that he is capable of 
being treated in all respects like one, and thereupon wish- 
es to teach him views and place him in positions for which 
he is not qualified. They look upon an Indian simply 
as he is — a wild savage, but a man who has rights which 
they take care to respect. That they do this for motives 
of gain is unquestionable ; but the results have shown 
that they were correct, and that much good has been ac- 
complished by their means. 

But, though the course of the Hudson Bay Company 
toward the Indians has been commendable, their treat- 
ment of American citizens in the territory west of the 
Kocky Mountains, although equally politic, has not been 
equally unexceptionable. The British, represented first 
by the Northwest Company, and afterward by the Hud- 
son Bay Company, have enjoyed the quiet and almost 
exclusive use of the Columbia regions fi:om 1814 to 
1840. 

That the people of the United States did not partici- 
pate in those advantages, doubtless arose from the cir- 
cumstance that they could render their exertions more 
productive elsewhere, and also, probably, because their 
government, from its nature, could not afford them as- 
surances and facilities for organization similar to those 



376 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

which have imparted so much vigor and efficiency to the 
operations of the British. 

But when the tide of emigration began to turn toward 
the Columbia, it was viewed bj the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany with no very favorable eye. True, all the mission- 
aries, and those who wished to settle for farming pur- 
poses, were hospitably received, and aided so far and so 
long as their objects were not of a commercial nature. 
Yet, if any one not connected with the Company at- 
tempted to hunt, or trap, or trade with the natives, then 
all the force of that body was turned toward him. Vio- 
lent means were not used, for it was unnecessary on the 
part of the Company, from its great advantages of wealth 
and knowledge of the country by its agents. But, wher-^ 
ever the Americans attempted to estabHsh a post or to 
engage in trade on the Columbia, an agent of the Hud- 
son Bay has soon appeared in that quarter with a party 
of hunters, or with specie or merchandise to be given to 
the Indians in exchange for furs at rates so much less 
than the Americans could sell at, that they were soon 
driven off the field. 

The Columbia River and its tributaries, and the rich 
country it drains, has always been regarded by this 
grasping monopoly as a country peculiarly their own, 
and, when the treaty between the United States and 
Great Britain, fixing the noi-thwestern boundary, was 
concluded (June 15th, 1846), instead of retiring as they 
should, and as they have announced they intended do- 
ing, to their possessions north of the boundary-line, they 
are still remaining as an incubus on the prosperity of the 
Territory, waiting to extort from the American govern- 
ment a fabulous price for their old log forts and rotten 
trading - houses, and, through their employes, or those 
formerly in their employ, seeking to poison the minds of 
the Indians against the Americans, and with what suc- 
cess can be read in the annals of the Indian war. 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATEE BAY. 377 

Greenhow remarks that " the publications of the di- 
rectors and agents of the Hudson Bay Company evince 
the most hostile feelings toward citizens of the United 
States, against whom every species of calumny is leveled 
in those works, as may be evinced in a History of the 
Oregon Territory and British American Fur Trade, by 
John Dunn (8vo, London, 1844) ; a compound of ridicu- 
lous blunders, vulgar ribaldry, and infamous calumnies. 
In blind and ferocious hatred of the Americans, ^Ir.Dunn, 
ex-storekeeper at Fort Vancouver, may claim equality 
with Lord Sydenham, formerly Captain General of Can- 
ada." 

The governors and factors of the company are very 
ready to extend their hospitalities to any gentlemen vis- 
iting them, and are particular in their attentions to offi- 
cials. 

Wilkes, during his visit to Oregon, while on his ex- 
ploring expedition, was very courteously received, and 
expresses his great astonishment how such generous peo- 
ple should be so unpopular among the settlers. 

The principal objection against this Company remain- 
ing in Washington Territory is not that they are English 
or Scotch men, for any foreigner has the right to enter 
and trade in any part of the United States or its Territo- 
ries, provided they obey our laws ; but it is from the fact 
that this powerful company of British subjects should 
be able, by an English charter, to monopolize the whole 
Northwest trade ; and that, while they are ostensibly 
American citizens, and take an interest in our political 
affairs in the Territory, they are, de facto, the subjects 
of the English government, considering themselves at all 
times responsible and amenable to the British laws, 
which are administered by their own officers either at 
their head-quarters in Montreal or London. 

The Hudson Bay Company was first chartered by 



378 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

Charles II., King of England, on the 16th of May, 1669, 
who granted to Prince Rupert and seventeen others, who 
were incorporated as The Governor and Comjpany of 
Adventurers of England trading into Hudson's Bay, 
" the exclusive right and privilege of the whole trade and 
commerce of all those seas, straits, lakes, creeks, and 
sounds, in whatsoever latitude they shall be, that lie 
within the straits commonly called Hudson's Straits, to- 
gether with all the lands, countries, and territories upon 
the coasts and confines of the seas, straits, lakes, bays, 
&c., &c., which are not now in possession of any of our 
subjects, or of the subjects of any other Christian prince 
or state." And the company were empowered to " send 
ships and to build fortifications for the defense of its pos- 
sessions, as well as to make war or peace with all na- 
tions or people, not Christian, inhabiting those territories, 
which are declared henceforth "to be reckoned and re- 
puted as one of his majesty's plantations or colonies in 
America called Rupert's Land." 

This charter, it will be seen, gave the Hudson Bay 
Company almost sovereign powers over the vast portion 
of America drained by streams entering Hudson's Bay. 

In July, 1821, an act was passed in Parliament "for 
regulating the fur-trade, and establishing civil and crim- 
inal jurisdiction within certain parts of North America." 
Shortly after the passage of this act, and in December of 
the same year, the king made a "grant of the exclusive 
trade with the Indians of North America to the Hudson 
Bay Company ;" and about this time the Northwest Com- 
pany had been merged into the Hudson Bay Company, 
and both were afterward known by the latter title. 

In 1838 the company relinquished their charter and 
received a new one, entitled " Crown grant to the Hud- 
son Bay Company for the exclusive trade with the In- 
dians in certain parts of North America for a term of 



U 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 379 

twenty-one years, and upon surrender of a former grant." 
This charter is the one under which the Hudson Bay 
Company at present are operating, and which, it will be 
seen, expires by limitation in 1858. It is a source of 
gratification to the people of Washington Territory to 
know that the Canadian government are taking an active 
part to have this odious monopoly broken up, and it is 
to be hoped that, at the expiration of its present charter, 
the English government will have the wisdom to throw 
open the trade of that vast region to every one disposed 
to enter into it. 

I have before remarked on the influence this Company 
have over the Indians, and I will now proceed to show 
what were the causes of the Indian outbreak, and how 
far the Hudson Bay Company may be said to have been 
connected with it.* 

It has been shown that, at the time of the commence- 
ment of the emigration of 1840, and for many years pri- 
or, the almost sole occupants of the Columbia regions, 
besides the Indians, were the Hudson Bay Company's 
people, either those in actual service or their retired serv- 
ants, who had made settlements in various places, but 
principally in the Willamette Yalley. All these people, 
and also the Indians, had been brought up in the belief 
that the Hudson Bay Company was an actual independ- 
ent government, as much so as the American govern- 
ment, and that the English were their powerful allies, to 
whom at all times they could look for assistance in times 
of need. That they had powers over lands, and juris- 
diction in civil and criminal cases, they knew from their 
own experience; and, in fact, these people all looked up 

* The reader is referred to the letter of General Gibbs, in the Ap- 
pendix, for an exposition of his views on the subject of the Indian war. 
General Gibbs's letter was addressed to me, but was not received in tim© 
to be inserted in the text. 



380 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

to the Company as their friends and protectors. On the 
other hand, the officers of the company looked upon the 
many advantages to be derived from the occupancy of 
the Columbia country, with a just appreciation of their 
merits, and were not at all anxious to have such rich 
possessions pass out of their hands. The treaty between 
Great Britain and the United States, by which all this 
territory was ceded to the latter, they cared nothing about 
so long as the United States assumed no jurisdiction 
over them, and they had seen how easy it had been for 
them to keep away American traders. The early emi- 
grants across the Rocky Mountains were not of a charac- 
ter to impress them with any fear gf opposition on their 
part, nor were they of a class calculated to inspire con- 
fidence or respect among the Indians. They were either 
farmers from the frontiers of Missouri, Iowa, or Wiscon- 
sin, who had no use for an Indian and never wished to see 
one, or else they were a set of lawless vagabond trappers 
and hunters, who, from their childhood, had been taught 
to look upon a savage as a wild beast to be shot down on 
every opportunity, and they were never slow to express 
their views on every occasion where their feelings were 
roused, both by words and action. It is very true that 
the colonies founded in 1834, in the Willamette Valley, 
and those afterward founded in the Walla WaUa and 
Spokan countries, were composed of people who formed 
schools and churches, and tried to induce the Indian to 
become civilized and Christianized, and undoubtedly with 
many good results ; but the Company did not care for 
these Christian emigrants, for they did not come to trade 
with the natives ; the objection was not against them ; 
but they came with the other emigrants who crossed the 
plains, and were classed by the Indians as belonging to 
them, and were all looked upon as Bostons in contradis- 
tinction to the Hudson Bay or King George people. 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 381 

As the country became more settled, another class of 
men arrived, the trading, swapping representatives of the 
universal Yankee nation. These men had an entirely 
different style of trading from that of the Company's 
agents ; for, v^hile the latter have a regular, uniform price 
for their commodities, the former were accustomed to 
trade on the peddler system of each man for himself, and, 
of course, no two could be found to trade alike. Still, 
the Indians liked to trade with them, for they kept one 
article, in great demand, which the Hudson Bay people 
did not sell, and that was whisky. Reckless, worthless 
men, who are always to be found in a new settlement, 
would give or sell whisky to the Indians, and then, 
when drunk, abuse them. If the injury was of a serious 
nature, the Indian Would be sure to have revenge, and, 
should he kill a white man, would be certainly hanged 
if caught ; but, although the same law operated on the 
whites, I have never known an instance where a white 
man has been hanged for killing an Indian. The ill 
feeling thus engendered against the Americans by this 
and other causes was continually fanned and kept alive 
by the half-breeds and old servants of the Company, 
whose feelings were irritated at what they considered an 
unwarrantable assumption on the part of these settlers 
in coming across the mountains to squat upon lands they 
considered theirs by right of prior occupancy. The offi- 
cers of the Company also sympathized with their old 
servants in this respect, and a deadly feeling of hatred 
has existed between these officers and the American em- 
igrants for their course in taking possession of the lands 
'claimed by the Puget Sound Agricultural Company, and 
other places on the Sound and the Columbia River; and 
there is not a man of influence among them who would 
not be glad to have had every American emigrant driven 
out of the country. Although they had too much poll- 



i 



382 



THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 






cy to openly avow their sentiments in sucli a manner as 
to be traced home to them, their mouth-pieces, their 
servants and menials, but too well sounded forth the 
sentiments of their masters. 

This state of angry feeling has been the occasion of 
speeches in Congress, violent denunciation by the Terri- 
torial press, and tedious and vexatious lawsuits.* Ev- 
ery man among the Company's people has looked upon 
the advent of the Americans as a horde of barbarians 

* The following extract from the proceedings of the Legislature of 
Washington Territory in 1855, will show the state of feeling to which 
reference has been made : 

"Memorial of the Legislature of Washington Territory to Congress, 
in r&lation to the Hudson Bay and Puget Sound Agricultural Compa- 
nies, passed January 19th, 1855. 

" To the Honorable the Senate and House of Representatives of the United 
States, in Congress assembled: 

"Your memorialists, the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of 
Washington, respectfully represent, that the claims to portions of our 
Territory set up by the Hudson Bay and Puget Sound Agricultural 
Companies, under the treaty of 1846, are seriously retarding the growth 
and prospects of our Territory, and doing great injustice to our citizens. 

" Your memorialists do not desire to argue the validity of the claims 
of either of these companies ; all they are entitled to they wish them 
to have. But they most earnestly desire that their claims shall be set- 
tled, rendered definite and certain ; for, as they now stand, with their 
claims extending over an indefinite extent of country, unmarked by 
any boundary, and those claims not asserted until some emigrant locates 
and improves, they hang like an incubus upon the best interests of the 
Territory. Your memorialists would therefore most respectfully pray 
that some steps may be taken, and that speedily, by which our Territory 
shall be freed from this deadly Upas, beneath whose branches every 
thing in our midst withers and dies. * * * * 

" The best interests of the Territory, as well as the peace and quie- 
tude of the citizens, demand that something should be done upon this 
subject. Suits are now pending, and more in readiness to be brought in 
our courts, for trespasses by the citizens upon the unmarked, undefined, 
and unoccupied lands of these companies. Thus they prevent the val- 
uable improvement of the country by others, and fail and refuse to 
make it by themselves. 

" Your memorialists might cite numerous private and individual inr 
stances of injury and haidship caused by the uncertainty of the claims 
of these companies among us, but they deem it unnecessary." 



I 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 383 

who have come to rob them of their just rights ; for it 
must be observed that almost all the Company's em- 
ployes are ignorant men, who do not or will not under- 
stand by what right the Americans can settle in their 
territory and drive them away, or else make them be- 
come American citizens. Hence the feeling evinced by 
such men as Captain Scarborough, and others of influ- 
ence among the Indians and lower order of whites. 

The constant comparison was made that the Bostons, 
as the Americans are called, were cultus tillicums, mean, 
common, or trifling people ; while the King George^ or 
English, were hyas tyee, or great chief people, or persons 
of importance. Even articles of trade, blankets, calicoes, 
and other things, were the objects of invidious compari- 
son. Whoever has traded with an Indian in the Terri- 
tory must have often heard the remark, ^'WaJce close 
cikoke Boston mdmoke, wake car^giia King George^ qud- 
nisum close kon^away icktas King George mdmoke — 
This is not good, this American manufacture ; it is not 
' like the English ; that is always good." 

But, although these people took good care to talk civ- 
illy to the Americans, they seldom failed, when by them- 
selves, to curse the Yankees, and compare the state of 
things with the good old times when the Company held 
absolute control. 

Some of them were active in advising the Indians not 
to make treaties with Governor Stevens, telling them 
the most fabulous tales of the designs of the Americans 
to drive them all out of the country. Although there 
was no positive proof that could be had against such 
persons (for an Indian's evidence is not taken), yet there 
exists no doubt upon the minds of all weU-informed per- 
sons of the fact that the advice of these people to the In- 
dians has operated very unfavorably toward the treaties 
of Governor Stevens. 



384 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

It soon became apparent to the Hudson Bay Compa- 
ny tliat it was useless for them to attempt to withstand 
the tide of American emigration. They saw that, with 
the advent of the Americans, their trade with the In- 
dians was interfered with, and that themselves were in 
very bad odor with a majority of the settlers. Many of 
their servants also deserted to get higher wages, which 
were readily obtained in aU the American towns and set- 
tlements ; so it was concluded to sell out to the United 
States, and retire north of the boundary-line so soon as 
a settlement could be effected. The fact that the Com- 
pany were about to remove from the Territory, and in- 
tended closing up their affairs there, was well known and 
talked about by the Indians and by those of the former 
servants who had permanently settled themselves on 
farms. To all these people, the idea of the Company's 
removing seemed like the breaking up of old associations, 
and the severing the bonds of an ancient friendship. Nor 
did they like the idea of having the Indians placed on 
reservations. They wanted the Indians to remain with 
them, and consequently were busy in circulating their 
reports unfavorable to the Americans and favoring the 
English. The Indians also were, as a general thing, 
opposed to going on the reservations, both from a natu- 
ral repugnance and from the advice of those who wished 
them to remain in their old homes. 

Neither had they any faith in the treaties, as they had 
seen how little reliance was placed on all that had been 
before attempted to be concluded with them, a fact also 
constantly brought up by these servants of the Com- 
pany in drawing their comparisons between the actions 
of the "Bostons" and "King George" people. They 
were undoubtedly correct in that respect, for all for- 
mer treaties had been repudiated by Congress, the stu- 
pidity of the agents rendering them incompetent either 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WAT E^ BAY. 385 

to draw up a proper document or to negotiate one when 
drawn. 

After my ^-eturn from the treaty on the Chehalis, in 
February (1855), I was constantly hearing these tales 
from the Indians. Carcowan and his people always had 
plenty of them to tell, and frequently that old savage 
has remarked that the King George people would help 
tliem to drive off the Bostons. 

That the Company did furnish them with guns and 
ammunition is notorious to every one ; but, in justice to 
them, I must add, that after the war actually commenced 
they stopped the sale of fire-arms and powder to the In- 
dians within the limits of the Territory. 

I was astonished at the regularity with which the 
Coast Indians received information of the occurrences 
taking place in the interior ; but, as I placed no depend- 
ence on what the Indians reported (for we had not heard, 
except by them, of any trouble among the miners), I took 
but little notice. But after my leaving the Bay, in Oc- 
tober, 1855, 1 learned that all the stories told me by the 
Indians were true, and I was satisfied that a regular com- 
,inunication had been kept up by all the tribes of the Ter- 
|ritory for a long time. This state of feeling between the 
! Hudson Bay servants, half-breeds, and Indians, and the 
Americans, had existed, as I have shown, for several 
years, but the immediate cause of the outbreak was the 
discovery of the gold at Fort Colville, and the conse- 
quent rush of the miners to that point. Fort Colville is 
near the forty-ninth parallel, and consequently close to 
the Company's territorial possessions north of that 
boundary. 

The news of this discovery was brought by some Nez 
Perce Indians, who every year visit the Dalles and 
Lower Columbia to sell horses. A number of the re- 
tired servants of the Hudson Bay Company who had 

R 



386 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

intermarried with this tribe had settled in the Willa- 
mette Valley, and to these persons the Indians commu- 
nicated the intelligence of the gold discovery. These 
settlers, who were mostly French Canadians, immedi- 
ately left their farms and stock, and went oiF for the 
mines. The news soon spread, and a general rush took 
place. Thousands — some with tools and provisions, and 
some without either — left for the new El Dorado, and at 
one time it seemed as if there was a new California about 
being established. 

The Hudson Bay Company did not at all like this 
movement on the part of the Americans. They did not 
object to French or English people, but the trading, 
swapping Yankee, who has always a stock of goods with 
him to " operate" with, was what they could not brook. 
They had always, before this, found no difficulty in keep- 
ing the Yankee traders at bay, but they now came like a 
swarm of locusts, and, instead of wishing to trade at the 
fort, almost every man was a trader. It is folly for any 
one to say that the Company did not want the trade and 
consequent gold of that multitude of miners ; for, if they 
did not wish for trade, why do they remain in the Terri- 
tory, like the dog in the manger, and prevent those from 
trading who wish ? 

Therefore what few expressions they did let fall served 
as sparks to powder, to induce the Indians, who were all 
ready to commence for themselves, to begin hostilities. 

" The first blood that was shed in Washington Terri- 
tory," says Colonel Anderson, in his speech before the 
House of Eepresentatives, in Congress, on the 6th of 
August, 1856, " was that of a miner, who, in August, 
1855, was on his way from Puget Sound to Fort Col- 
ville, having with him a good deal of money, provisions, 
etc. Soon after passing beyond the limits of the Yaka- 
mas, he was pursued by a party of Indians, massacred, 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATE;^ BAY. 387 

and robbed of every thing he had with him. Shortly 
after, other murders were reported to have been commit- 
ted in the Yakama country. In September, Indian 
Agent Bolon went into that country to ascertain some- 
thing about these outrages, and he too was not permit- 
ted to return. He was murdered in the most cruel 
manner. When this occurred, there was no escaping 
the conviction that a general outbreak had been determ- 
ined on by the Indians." 

General Palmer, Superintendent of Indian affairs for 
Oregon, who went to the Dalles shortly after the death 
of Bolon for the express purpose of collecting reliable 
information in relation to the causes of the outbreak, 
Says, in an official communication to the Indian Depart- 
ment, on the 25th of October, 1855, " The evidences of 
a deep-rooted prejudice against our citizens prevail among 
all our tribes . in Middle and Upper Oregon, the Nez 
Perces excepted. How far that feeling may be fanned 
and kept alive by aliens from other countries and their 
descendants, we are not able to judge, but that it does 
extend to the entire exclusion and occupancy of the 
country by our own citizens is a fact undeniable.^^ 
Captain Cain also wrote to the Commissioner for Indian 
Affairs, on the 22d of November, " There is abundant 
evidence to my mind that this war has been contem- 
plated by the Indians for the last three or four years, 
and I will take the proper steps to obtain the testimony, 
and submit it to your consideration at the earliest mo- 
ment." 

I think I have shown the causes that have produced 
a state of feeling that would prompt the Indians to take 
the field against us ; and I think the officers of the Hud- 
son Bay Company in the Territory, although no proof 
can be adduced to show that they, as a Company^ have 
induced this state of things, yet they knew the feelings 



388 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

of the Indians toward the Americans, and they are mor- 
ally responsible for not using the great influence they 
possess over the savages not only to have prevented this 
trouble at its incipiency, but to have advised the Indians 
to agree to Governor Stevens's propositions for treaties. 
It is a very significant fact that not a single English or 
Frenchman, or any one having to do with the Company, 
was murdered ; it was invariably the Americans ; and 
a party, on their way from the mines, were saved from 
massacre by having with them a couple of French half- 
breeds, who passed them off as English or King George 
people.* 

My conclusions as to the existence of the bad feeling 
toward the Americans have been drawn from my own 
observations during my residence at Shoal-water Bay for 
three years. All the Indians I met with there had been 
accustomed to trade with the Company's agents until the 
oystermen of the Bay wished their services ; and the con- 
versations I have had with them at various times inva- 
riably showed a preference for the Company's people. 
There were also, at the mouth of the Columbia and 
about the Bay, persons who had been in the employ of 
the Hudson Bay Company in various capacities, and who 
were always ready to draw comparisons favorable to their 
former employers. It is perfectly natural such feelings 
should exist, and it is to be wondered at why this pri- 
mary cause of difficulty should have been overlooked by 
General Wool, the commander of the forces on the Pacif- 
ic, and the whole trouble be charged to a rapacious spir- 
it of the settlers, who were accused by him of bringing 
about the war for the purpose of supplying forage to the 

* It should be remembered that the exemption of the French and 
English from attack by the Indians was at the beginning of the Indian 
troubles. Since that time the Indians do not appear to be very par- 
ticular whose scalp they get, provided it is a white man's. 



i 



I 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 389 

United States troops. Had he "been as ready to search 
into facts as he was to become a " swift witness" against 
a whole community, far different results might have en- 
sued. 

At the time of the commencement of hostilities, Gov- 
ernor Stevens, with his party, was among the Black 
Feet Indians, east of the Rocky Mountains, and by the 
outbreak was cut off from all communication with Olym- 
pia, the seat of government. The duty then devolved on 
Mr. Mason, the Secretary of the Territory, who was offi- 
ciating as acting governor. Mr. Mason informed the gov- 
ernment at Washington of the existing state of affairs, 
and of his want of men and means, and orders were im- 
mediately issued to General Wool, then at San Francis- 
co, to proceed at once to the scene of difficulties. 

General Wool, with a lamentable ignorance of the to- 
pography of the country, issued a proclamation, in which 
he states that he intends " making his saddle his head- 
quarters," and at once set off with a most commendable 
zeal for Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia Eiver. But 
on his arrival he found matters far different from his ex- 
pectations. A very severe winter had set in — in fact, the 
coldest that had been known for years, and the commu- 
nication with the interior of the Territory and its more 
remote borders was for a time suspended. There was 
no trouble in the immediate vicinity of Fort Vancouver, 
and but very few Indians, and those friendly, were to be 
seen. 

General Wool now took the advice of parties who did 
not state to him the real condition of affairs ; but he saw 
that he could be of no service by camping out on his 
saddle, so he returned to San Francisco, where he com- 
menced writing his letters against the governors and peo- 
ple of both Oregon and Washington Territories. 

The fact seemed to be entirely lost sight of that this 



390 



THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 



Indian trouWe was commenced on the "border between 
ourselves and a foreign state, and that the same influ- 
ences were brought to bear that were used in all our 
border trouble with our northern neighbors — that of in- 
citing a feeling among the Indians invidious to the Amer- 
icans. It would have been possibly a part of wisdom to 
have secured the good feeling and hearty co-operation of 
the Hudson Bay officials, who, by their influence, would 
have been far more efiective than the troops which were 
kept quartered at Fort Vancouver. It certainly is un- 
fortunate that General Wool did not consult and advise 
with Governors Curry and Stevens, who, from their of- 
ficial positions and vastly superior knowledge, both of 
the country and the character of the Indians, could have 
given him sound and sensible advice. Be that as it may, 
one thing is now certain: that no lasting, permanent 
peace can be maintained with those Indians until they 
are thoroughly subdued. What was intended to have 
been effected by treaties must now be done by force ; 
nor am I alone in this opinion. 

General Gibbs, in a letter to me dated at Fort Stei- 
lacoom, Washington Territory, July 31, 1856, writes : 
" There is still no hope of a permanent peace here till 
one is concluded on the other (eastern) side the Cascade 
Mountains, and you know enough of Indians to know 
that a peace can not be made permanent till they are 
subdued. * * * The incompetency, or willful and 
obstinate inefficiency of General Wool paralyzed all op- 
erations in the country east of the Mountains during the 
past winter." General Lane, of Oregon, in his remarks 
before Congress on the 7th of May, 1856, says : " The 
general (Wool) is mistaken in his information. He has 
not examined the geography of the country. He has 
been grossly deceived." 

It is not my purpose to enter into a dissertation of 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 391 

occurrences of this war since its commencement, but to 
record my own belief that the charges brought against 
the Oregon and Washington people having originated 
this war for their own selfish ends are wholly and un- 
qualifiedly false ; and that, as Colonel Anderson remark- 
ed in Congress (Augnist 6th, 1856), " there is not the 
first shadow of a foundation or the first scintilla of evi- 
dence to substantiate them." 

But while I thus record my views in the one case, I 
am no apologist, on the other hand, for any acts commit- 
ted by settlers which have served to widen the breach 
between the Americans and Indians. That such acts 
have been committed does not admit of doubt ; neither 
is it untrue that many persons have been glad of the 
war, that they " might furnish forage to the troops, and 
looked upon such an opportunity as a God-send." There 
always are people in every country glad of such chances 
to enrich themselves, but such things are an eficct, not 
the cause, of the war ; and General Wool has certainly 
been very much mistaken when he denounces a whole 
people as originating the unhappy state of affairs in 
Oregon and Washington for the purpose of plundering 
the Treasury of the United States. 

These disturbances have been very prejudicial to the 
interests of the Territory, and have set back the im- 
provements for years ; but with the coming season and 
active operations, it is to be hoped that a solid and last- 
ing peace will be established.* 

* See General Gibbs's letter to me on the Indian War, in the Ap- 
pendix. 



392 



THE NOETHWEST COAST; OE, 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Description of Washington Territory. — Face of the Country. — Mount- 
ains, Minerals, Eivers, Bays, and Lakes. — Objects of Interest to the 
Tourist. — Falls of the Snoqualmie. — Colonel Anderson's Description. 
— Anecdote of Patkanira. — He forms an Alliance with Colonel Mike 
Simmons. — Constructive Presence of Colonel Simmons at a Fight. — 
Productions of the Territory. — Governor Stevens's Remarks. — North- 
em Pacific Rail-road. — Mihtary Roads. — Public Spirit. — Appropria- 
tions by Congress. — Judge Lancaster. — Population. — Advantages to 
Emigrants. — Whale Fishery. — Russian Trade. — Amoor River. — Van- 
couver's Views on Climate. — Winter of 1806 in Latitude 56° North. — 
Salmon, 1807. — Closing Remarks. — ^Letter from Colonel Anderson. 
— Advice to Emigrants. 

Washington Territory is the extreme northwest 
domain of the United States, and is bounded by the 
Straits of Fuca and the 49th parallel of latitude on the 
north, the Pacific on the west, the Eocky Mountains on 
the east, and by Oregon on the south, from which it is 
separated by the Columbia Eiver to near Fort Walla 
Walla, and from thence by the 46th parallel. Its form 
is nearly that of a parallelogram, with an area of some 
123,022 square miles. 

The approach to Washington Territory from the Pa- 
cific is not so abruptly mountainous as that of Oregon. 
The coast from Cape Disappointment to Cape Flattery 
is nearly north and south, and can be traveled almost its 
entire length on a beautiful sand-beach, with the excep- 
tions of the openings of Shoal-water Bay, Gray's Har- 
bor, the Copalis, Queniult, and one or two other small 
rivers. Only a few points jutting into the sea render a 
portage over them necessary, but the whole distance is 
easily traversed with the occasional aid of a canoe. 

Vancouver noticed the difference of the appearance of 



I 



THKEE YEAES AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 393 

the coast north of the Columbia, and writes (April, 1792), 
while about two leagues off shore, Cape Disappointment 
bearing north. 32° east: "The country now before us 
(Shoal-water Bay) presented a most luxuriant landscape, 
and was probably not a little heightened in beauty by 
the weather that prevailed. The more interior parts 
were somewhat elevated, and agreeably diversified with 
hills, from which it gradually descended to the shore, 
and terminated in a sandy beach. The whole had the 
appearance of a continued forest, extending north as far 
as the eye could reach, which made me very solicitous 
to find a port in the vicinity of a country presenting so 
delightful a prospect of fertility." 

It is emphatically a mountainous country, and con- 
tains within its limits some of the highest mountains of 
the Coast range. The principal peaks of the Cascade 
range are Mount St. Helen's, Mount Adams, Mount Ra- 
nier, and IMount Baker. Mount Olympus, which is the 
highest of the Coast range, has an elevation of 8197 
feet. Mount St. Helen's 13,300, and Mount Eanier 
12,000. These peaks are clothed with perpetual snow. 

The Indian disturbances have, in a great measure, re- 
tarded the developing of the resources of the Territory ; 
and, with the exception of the operations in the coal 
mines at Bellingham's Bay, and the sandstone quarries 
on the Cowlitz, and the gold mines at Fort Colville, but 
few minerals have been worked. 

Dr. Evans, the geologist of Oregon, who has obtained 
from personal experience more reliable information than 
any one else, states that there is coal in abundance, gold 
in rich diggings, marble in vast quarries, and an inex- 
haustible supply of lead. 

The Columbia River, which separates the two Terri- 
tories of Oregon and Washington, is the principal stream, 
and from Fort Walla Walla continues wholly within 

R2 



394 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

Washington Territory till it enters the British territory 
near the junction of the Eocky Mountains and the 49th 
parallel. There are numerous and valuable tributaries 
to the Columbia in Washington, of which the princi- 
pal are the Okinakane, Yakama, Snake, Walla Walla, 
Cathlapoodl, and Cowlitz. Shoal-water Bay, which is 
directly north of the Columbia, and which is a most 
excellent harbor, receives the waters of several small 
streams, of which the Whil-a-pah, Palux, and Nasal are 
the principal. 

Gray's Harbor, eighteen miles north of Shoal-water 
Bay, receives the waters of the Chehalis, a fine stream 
of 130 miles in length, and also the Satsop, and other 
smaller rivers. The Queniult Biver, which runs into 
the Pacific five miles north of Point Grenville, has its 
rise in a fine lake of the same name, about twenty miles 
from the ocean, but can not be entered from its mouth, 
and is, consequently, of no commercial use. There are 
many streams running into Fuca Straits, and into the 
waters of Bellingham's Bay, Admiralty Inlet, Hood's 
Canal, and Puget Sound, and of these the Dungeness, 
Skokomish, Nisqually, Duwamsh, Snoqualmie, and 
Nooksahk are the principal. 

Besides the Queniult Lake, there are several others 
of importance, as the Duwamsh, Sammamish, Whatcom, 
and Cushman, to the west of the Cascade range ; and to 
the east are Lake Pend'oreilles, Chelan, Kullerspelm, 
Osoyoos, Okinakane, Grand Coulee, Lake Elias, Salt 
Lake, and many others of smaller size. 

The only island of note on the Coast is Destruction 
Island, but in the waters of the Straits of Fuca and Ad- 
miralty Inlet are many of importance. The principal 
ones are Whidbey's Island in Admiralty Inlet, which is 
about forty miles long, and noted for its deer. East of 
Whidbey's Island is M'Donough's, and south are Bain- 



t 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 395 

bridge, Yashons ; and in Puget Sound are Fox, M'Neil, 
Anderson's, and Hart stein's ; and in Bellingliam's Baj 
and the Rosario Straits are others of less importance. 

Washington Territory shares with Oregon the grand 
scenery of the Columbia, the Cascades, the Dalles, and 
other interesting points. The lofty peaks of St. Helen's, 
E-anier, Adams, and Baker, of the Cascade range, and 
Mount Olympus on the Coast, rear their snowy heads. 
Mount St. Helen's is a volcano, and has been in active 
operation as late as 1842 ; and the appearance of many 
parts of the Territory shows that the volcanic action has 
not been uncommon. 

The rivers of Washington, having their rise in the 
mountains, have magnificent scenery, and on many of 
them falls of magnitude may be found. Colonel Ander- 
son, while marshal of the Territory, visited many of them 
while traversing the country taking the census. He 
writes me from Washington City, January 25th, 1857, 
^ as -follows : 

" During the month of July, 1852, 1 visited the cele- 
brated Snoqualmie Falls, the second white party that 
had ever visited them. Lieutenant Floyd Jones, of the 
4th Infantry, United States Army, was with me. We 
measured the falls with a thread, and found them to be 
260 feet high jperjpendicular. They are truly grand. 
The Snoqualmie Falls are in about 47° 40^ north, and 
121° 30^ west. The Snoqualmie Eiver is the south 
branch and main tributary to the Snohomish, and emp- 
ties into the latter about twenty miles below and west 
of the falls, and about thirty miles above and east of the 
mouth of the Snohomish, which makes it about fifty 
miles from the falls to the mouth of the Snohomish, 
which is nearly opposite the south end of M'Donough's 
Island, in what Vancouver called 'Possession Sound' 
(for there he took joossession of the country in the name 
of his sovereign). 



396 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OE, 

" The Snohomish is navigable by small steamers as far 
Tip as the mouth of the Snoqualmie, which is about the 
head of tide-water. Canoes ascend within a mile of the 
falls at all seasons. About ten miles below the falls," 
adds the colonel, "is the residence and head-quarters 
of the celebrated chief Patkanim, who had a brother 
hung at Fort Steilacoom in 1850 (by order of the court, 
Judge Strong) for murdering a soldier. Since that time 
Pat was supposed to harbor feelings of revenge against 
t\iQ Bostons, and, in consequence, was narrowly watched. 
He was known to be shrewd, designing, cunning, and 
crafty. But in 1852 he took a trip on a lumber vessel 
to San Francisco, and when he returned he said his tuin- 
turn had killajpied^ or his heart had changed ; that the 
Bostons were too strong for the Indians to contend with ; 
they had too many ships, houses, men, &c. So, in this 
last war, he tendered the services of himself and a com- 
pany of braves to the governor to assist in whipping 
Leschi, Nelson, and other Indians on White Eiver. At 
first he was repulsed, but he importuned the governor, 
and protested the strongest friendship for the Bostons, 
At the solicitation of old Mike Simmons (the Daniel 
Boone of Washington Territory), the governor consent- 
ed, and accepted Pat and his braves as allies, 

" Simmons and a young man named Fuller accompa- 
nied Pat on his first and only expedition. They sur- 
prised the enemy on White River, routed them, killing- 
nine and losing five braves, Pat brought the heads of 
his slain as trophies to Colonel Simmons, who did not 
participate personally in the fight, except by being con- 
structively present, that is, in his tent near by. Of 
course, this was a feather in Pat's cap. He returned to 
Olympia with his braves to receive the crown of laurel 
that always awaits the conqueror, which in this case took 
the form of the hhju ickters — many things in the shape 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATEE BAT. 397 

of presents which the governor had promised him if he 
should be successful. Pat and his company are the 
only ones icho have ever yet received a dime for their 
sei'vices hi this disastrous vjar.^"* 

Besides the Snoqualmie Falls, there are hundreds of 
others of various heights, and all worthy the attention 
of the tourist ; but, as I have not received any descrip- 
tion except the one just related by Captain Anderson, I 
am unable to give any more particular account. 

The climate, which has already been alluded to, is sim- 
ilar to that of Oregon, with some variations caused by 
difference of latitude and local peculiarities. It is, how- 
ever, in all parts of the Territory, much milder than in the 
same parallels of latitude east of the Eocky Mountains. 

The soil of all the prairie lands, with the exception of 
those directly around Puget Sound, is exceedingly fer- 
tile. Those of the Sound are of a sandy, gravelly na- 
ture, not readily cultivated, but producing enormous fir 
and cedar trees. The soil on the mountains, wherever I 
have seen any attempt at a clearing, is generally very 
rich ; but the dense growth of forest deters the emigrant 
from attempting clearings on a large extent, as the fine, 
fertile plains and prairie offer far greater inducements. 
Fruit of various kinds, particularly apples, can be culti- 
vated very readily, and in the greatest perfection. In- 
dian-corn does not thrive weU, as the seasons are not hot 
enough ; but wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes yield the 
most abundant crops, of the finest quality. The pota- 
toes, in particular, are the best I have ever met with in 
any part of the world. The wheat grown on the Colum- 
bia, called Oregon wheat, is too well known for its supe- 
rior excellence to need further remark at this time. 

Although the Territory is a very mountainous country, 
yet there are many immense plains and prairies ; and, by 
reference to the map, it will be seen that innumerable 



398 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

streams, like veins, permeate the whole region, and each 
of them, from the largest to the smallest, flows in its 
course through rich and fertile plains, of various sizes, 
lying between the mountains. Governor Stevens, in 
January, 1854, writing of the Territory, says of the wa- 
ters of Puget Sound, and the adjacent ones of Hood's 
Canal, Admiralty Inlet, and Fuca Straits, "that their 
maritime advantages are very great, in affording a series 
of harbors almost unequaled in the world for capacity, 
safety, and facility of access, and they are in the im- 
mediate neighborhood to what are now the best whaling 
grounds of the Pacific. That portion of Wasliington 
Territory lying between the Cascade Mountains and the 
ocean, although equaling, in richness of soil and ease 
of transportation, the best lands of Oregon, is heavily 
timbered, and time and labor are required for clearing its 
forests and opening the earth to the production of its 
fruits. The great body of the country, on the other 
hand, stretching eastward from that range to the Rocky 
Mountains, while it contains many fertile valleys and 
much land suitable to the farmer, is yet more especially 
a grazing country — one which, as its population increases, 
promises, in its cattle, its horses, and, above all, its wool, 
to open a vast field to American enterprise. But, in the 
mean time, the staple of the land must continue to be the 
one which Nature herself has planted, in the inexhaustible 
forests of fir, of spruce, and of cedar. Either in furnish- 
ing manufactured timber, or spars of the first description 
for vessels, Washington Territory is unsurpassed by any 
portion of the Pacific coast." 

Washington Territory abounds in fine timber, and the 
enormous growth of its spruce and fir excites the admi- 
ration of every one who sees them. The trees in the 
region about Puget Sound are especially large, compris- 
ing the spruce, hemlock^ yew, cedar, fir, oak, ash, maple, 



THREE TEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 399 

and alder. There are now about thirty-seven saw-mills 
in the Territory, the largest of which is that of Pope, 
Talbot & Co., under charge of Captain J. P. Kellar, at 
Teekalet (Port Gamble), on Hood's Canal. The inter- 
nal improvements of Washington Territory are progress- 
ing as fast as can be expected in a new and sparsely- 
populated country, situate so remote from the general 
government. In 1853, Governor Isaac I. Stevens, the 
first governor of the Territory, surveyed a route for a 
Northern Pacific Rail-road, and discovered a pass near 
the sources of Maria's River suitable for a rail-road, 
estimated to be 2500 feet lower than the south pass of 
Fremont. It is generally admitted that Governor Ste- 
vens's route is the best one for a rail-road that has yet 
been discovered, although the great, and, in fact, the prin- 
cipal objection urged against it is that it is too far north, 
and, consequently, will not suit the views nor accommo- 
date the inhabitants of the more southern states and 
California. 

Colonel J. P. Anderson, to whom I am under great ob- 
ligation for valuable information, writes me from Wash- 
ington City, January 30th, 1857, as follows : "In Feb- 
ruary or March, 1853, Congress made an appropriation 
of $25,000 to construct a military road from Fort Stei- 
lacoom to Walla WaUa, over and across the Cascade 
Mountains. Captain George B. M'Clellan (late of the 
Crimean Commission, now resigned) was charged with 
the work, in connection with the survey of that region 
for the Northern Pacific Rail-road. 

"He assigned Lieutenant Arnold to the immediate 
duty of superintending in person the construction of the 
road. However, before the government officers com- 
menced this work, while they were getting ready, the 
citizens of Thurston and Pierce Counties, knowing the 
necessity of getting a road over the mountains that 



400 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OE, 

summer (1853), in order to accommodate the expected 
emigrants in the fall, set to work, raised private sub- 
scriptions, and put on a strong force to look out a prac- 
ticable pass and make a wagon-road. 

"This company of citizens marked out the road, and so 
opened it as to admit of travel by pack-animals all the 
way, and wagons a great part of the way, before the gov- 
ernment officers arrived. Then Captain M'Clellan, with 
that good judgment and liberality for which he was dis- 
tinguished, adopted the citizens' road almost entirely, 
reimbursed them out of the appropriation for much of 
the work they had done, and spent the balance of the 
$25,000 very judiciously in making a good wagon-road 
over the nnountains, 

"There was about $8000 worth of work done by the 
citizens which Captain M'Clellan could not pay for, but for 
which I have at this Congress (January, 1857) procured 
an appropriation (on his recommendation) ; also $10,000 
more to finish the road. I have also an appropriation 
of $45,000 for a road from Fort Steilacoom to Belling- 
ham's Bay ; also $35,000 for one from the mouth of the 
Columbia Eiver to Fort Steilacoom, both of which have 
passed the House, and only wait the action of the Sen- 
ate, which, I doubt not, will be favorable ; also an addi- 
tional appropriation to complete the road from Fort Van- 
couver to Steilacoom. When these are completed, you 
will be able to see their importance, all radiating from 
Fort Steilacoom, which is about the centre of the popu- 
lation." 

During the Congress of 1854, the Honorable Colum- 
bia Lancaster, the then delegate from Washington Terri- 
tory, procured, among other appropriations, one for plac- 
ing buoys to mark the channel to Shoal- water Bay, and 
another to erect a light-house at Cape Shoal- water, which, 
however, has not, as yet, been done. There is a light- 



THREE YEARS AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 401 

house on Cape Disappointment in operation, but, with 
this exception, there is no other one at present in the 
Territory, though many are needed. 

^' Besides the military road already mentioned, there are 
various county and Territorial roads, the principal of 
which is the Cowlitz, leading from the Cowlitz Landing 
to Olympia, a distance of about fifty miles. This road 
is the principal mail-route. * 

The population of the Territory is composed of whites 
and Indians, and of the latter, the census taken by Gov- 
ernor Stevens in 1854 gives a total of 7559. Of the 
whites I have no recent reliable statistics. 

Colonel Anderson, while Marshal of the Territory, took 
the first census, and finished in November, 1853, at which 
time he reported to the governor that the white popula- 
tion of the Territory was 3965, which would make the 
whole number of whites and Indians 11,524. Since 
that time there has been no official census taken, but the 
present white population has been estimated at about 
8000, and the Indian at about 7400, which estimate is 
probably nearly correct. 

The first Federal officer who reached the Territory 
after its separation from Oregon was the United States 
Marshal, Colonel J. Patton Anderson, who arrived at 
Olympia on the evening of the 3d of July, 1853, and 
proceeded at once to take the census. Governor Ste- 
vens arrived in the Territory about November of the 
same year, and immediately issued his proclamation for 
an election of members of both houses of the Legisla- 
ture, and assigned the three judges. Lander, Munroe, and 
M'Fadden, their several districts. 

The first court was held at Cowlitz Landing, in Lewis 
County, on the first Monday in January, 1854, and the 
first Legislature met the last of the same month at Olym- 
pia, and elected Seth Catlin President of the Council, 



402 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

and F. A. Chenowith Speaker of the House. The Hon- 
orable Columbia Lancaster was the first delegate sent 
from the Territory to Congress, and was succeeded by 
Honorable J. Patton Anderson. Both these gentlemen 
have exerted themselves with success for the good of 
their constituents while in Congress, and have ably as- 
sisted the governor in all his measures for the good of 
the Territory ; and the present rapid increase of Wash- 
ington, and its many inducements to encourage emigra- 
tion, contrasting so favorably with some of our other ter- 
ritories, show skill and good management on the part of 
the executive and delegates, and the good sense of the 
local population. 

To the emigrant Washington Territory presents great 
attraction. The great diversity of its surface, whether 
mountain, valley, or plain, gives prospect of success tg the 
farmer, the grazier, and the lumberman ; and its numer- 
ous and inexhaustible mines of bituminous coal, its quar*- 
ries of marble and sandstone, its rich gold and lead depos- 
its, and its unrivaled water privileges offer great induce- 
ments to the capitalist, whether as manufacturer, trader, 
or ship-owner. 

There is no state in the Union that has so vast a com- 
munication by water as Washington Temtory — the Co- 
lumbia River on its south, the Pacific on the west, and 
the Straits of Fuca, Hood's Canal, Admiralty Inlet, and 
Puget Sound on the north. There is not a safer en- 
trance from the ocean in the world than Fuca Straits ; 
and the deep waters that flow through the whole of the 
inlets, bays, and sounds enable ships of the largest class 
readily to approach Olympia, the seat of government, at 
the head of Budd's Inlet, Puget Sound. For a whaling 
station, the harbors and bays of the Straits of Fuca pre- 
sent remarkable advantages for ships, while for vessels 
of smaller size Shoal-water Bay can not be surpassed. 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 403 

By reference to Maury's Whaling Chart of the Pacific, 
it will be seen that Washington Territory lies directly in 
the latitude of the present whaling grounds, and vessels 
can be sent to sea either from Shoal-water Bay or Fuca 
Straits, and reach the cruising ground easier and quick- 
er than from any other place. All that the Territory 
now wants are men and means. To bring the first will 
be easy when we have the wagon-road completed for 
which an appropriation has just been made by Congress. 
We do not ask for, neither do we require, a rail-road at 
present. Let the wagon-road first be built, with a view 
of hereafter being used, as far as practicable, as a rail- 
road, and as soon as the population increases enough to 
demand it, there will be no difficulty in laying down rails 
and running engines.* The present difficulties in China 
between the authorities of that country and the English, 
Americans, and French, and the recent commercial ad- 

* Wagon-road from Fort Kearney to California. — The following is a 
copy of the act passed at the late session of Congress to construct a 
wagon-road from Fort Kearney to California : 

'■'■Be it enacted^ That the sum of $300,000, or as much thereof as may 
be necessary, be, and the same is hereby appropriated, out of any mon- 
eys not otherwise appropriated, for the construction of a wagon-road 
from Fort Kearney, in the Territory of Nebraska, via the South Pass of 
the Rocky Mountains, to the eastern boundary of the State of Califor- 
nia, near Honey Lake ; to be expended under the direction of the Sec- 
retary of the Interior, pursuant to contracts to be made by him ; said 
road to connect with and form an extension of the road already author- 
ized from Fort Ridgely to the aforesaid South Pass. 

Sec. 2. That the sum of $200,000, or as much thereof as may be 
necessary, be, and the same is hereby appropriated, out of any moneys 
in the treasury not otherwise appropriated, for the construction of a 
wagon-road from El Paso, on the Rio Grande, to Fort Yuma, on the 
mouth of the Gila River ; to be expended by the Secretary of the Inte- 
rior, pursuant to contracts to be made by him. 

Sec. 3. That the sum of $50,000 be, and the same is hereby appro- 
priated, out of any moneys in the treasury not otherwise appropriated, 
for the construction of a wagon-road from Fort Defiance, in the Terri- 
tory of New Mexico, to the Colorado River, near the mouth of the Mo- 
hane River. 



404 THE NOETHWEST COAST; OR, 

vantages, obtained in China Iby the Russians, seem to in- 
dicate that, unless some speedy reconciliation takes place, 
Russia will obtain control of a large portion of the tea 
trade. Already tea has been shipped to England from 
St. Petersburg, and we may expect that it wiU not be 
long before an export trade will be opened between the 
Russians and Americans from the River Amoor. A trade 
between San Francisco and that river has already open- 
ed ; but it will be seen, by reference to any chart of the 
Pacific, what great advantages Washington Territory and 
the Columbia River possess over all other places for that 
trade. 

The mouth of the Amoor is at the head of the Gulf 
of Tartary, and lies in about lat. 53° north, and Ion. 140° 
east. The entrance to Fuca Straits lies in lat. 48° 30^ 
north, and Ion. 124° 30^ west — a difference in latitude of 
only 270 miles, and distant 4000 miles. This shows the 
great advantage in point of distance ; for, while the Straits 
of Fuca are about 10 degrees farther north than San Fran- 
cisco, they have a still farther advantage of being to the 
windward ; and when it is recollected that for the prin- 
cipal part of the year the prevailing wind is from the 
northwest, the point of advantage can readily be seen. 
The Amoor River is the largest stream flowing into the 
Pacific from the western side ; it is navigable for boats 
to Nertchinsk, which is said to be 1700 miles from its 
mouth. Already the Russians have strongly fortified 
the entrance, and there is no doubt that a large city will 
soon be built upon its shores. 

One great objection urged against Washington Terri- 
tory by persons desirous to emigrate is, that it must, 
from its high latitude, be excessively cold ; that it is as 
bleak and barren as the shores of the Atlantic in the 
same parallel. But such is not the fact. It has already 
been shown that the whole Pacific region is much warm- 



THEEE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 405 

er than coiTesponding points on the Atlantic, and that 
there are never the sudden and excessive changes of cli- 
mate so often experienced east of the Kocky Mountains. 
In addition to instances already cited of its mildness and 
the early spring, Vancouver writes that in May, 1792, 
on landing near New Dungeness, " our attention was im- 
mediately called to a landscape almost as enchantingly 
beautiful as the most elegant finished pleasure-grounds 
in Europe. The country presented nearly a horizontal 
surface, interspersed with some inequalities of ground, 
which produced a beautiful variety of extensive lawn, 
covered with luxuriant grass, and diversified with an 
abundance of flowers. While we stopped to contem- 
plate these several beauties of nature in a prospect no 
less pleasing than unexpected, we gathered some goose- 
berries and roses in a considerable state of forwardness." 
At another point, farther along the Strait, he remarks, 
" The ground was covered with a coarse spiry grass, in- 
terspersed with strawberries, two or three species of clo- 
ver, samphire, and a great variety of other plants, some 
of which bore the most beautiful flowers. On a few of 
the points were shrubs that seemed to thrive excessive- 
ly, such as roses, a species of sweetbrier, gooseberries, 
raspberries, currants, and several other smaller bushes, 
which, in their respective seasons, produce, most proba- 
bly, the several fruits common to this and the opposite 
side of America. These all appeared to grow very lux- 
uriantly, and, from the quantity of blossoms with which 
they were loaded, there was great reason to believe them 
very productive." 

That Vancouver was correct in his belief as to the pro- 
duction of fruit I can testify from personal experience. 
I never have seen any where such great quantities of the 
fruits he has enumerated, or of so excellent a quality, as 
in Washington Territory. WiUiam Tufts, Esq., of Bos- 



406 THE NORTHWEST COAST; OR, 

ton, to whom I am indebted for compiling the interest- 
ing and very valuable list of vessels trading on the North- 
west Coast, which may be found in the Appendix, and 
who was on the Coast as supercargo of the ship Guati- 
mozin, of Boston, in 1807-8, writes me from Boston, 
February 6th, 1857, that he was on the Coast for eight- 
een months, from the 20th of March, 1806, to the 24th 
of September, 1808. During that time their trading ex- 
tended from the Columbia, in latitude 46° north, to about 
59° 30^ south, but most of the time was passed between 
latitude 54° to 57°. The weather during the eighteen 
months was mild, but with abundance of rain during the 
winter months, and but little snow. While in the lati- 
tude of 56° north, during the winter, they experienced 
the coldest weather, which lasted but a few days^ and 
during that time the wind was north-northeast. 

Mr. Tufts also adds, what may be here inserted as 
corroborating my former statement of the size of the 
salmon in the Columbia, " I was in the Columbia Biver 
from about the first to the middle of July, 1807. Our 
dinner on the 4th of July was roast moose and boiled 
salmon. We attempted to smoke a dozen or two of the 
salmon purchased at that time. The largest weighed 
about 75 pounds, and the whole averaged not far from 
60 pounds each." 

Mr. Tufts also procured, at the same time, a medal 
given to the Indians by Lewis and Clarke. It was of 
pewter, and with the inscriptions upon it shown in the 
following cut. 

But enough has been already adduced from the writ- 
ings of the early navigators on the Pacific coast, from 
the times of Meares, Vancouver, and Gray, in 1789 and 
1792, to the time of my personal experience, from 1852 
to 1855, to show that not only is the climate far prefer- 
able to that of the Northeast Coast of America, but that 



THEEE YEARS AT SHOAL- WATER BAY. 407 




the natural products of the country are in such profusion 
as to render the Territory a desirable place of abode. 

For persons desirous of emigrating to Washington Ter- 
ritory, the routes either by land or water can be select- 
ed. By water, the most expeditious is to cros» the Isth- 
mus of Panama, and proceed to San Francisco, where 
passage can be obtained for the Columbia Eiver direct, 
either in the regular mail steamers, or by the numerous 
sailing vessels constantly plying between the two ports, 
or by sailing vessels bound either to Shoal-water Bay, 
or any of the numerous ports on Fuca Straits, or the 
other waters bounding the northwest section of the Ter- 
ritory. 

The overland route would be to take any of the old 
and approved roads till the Columbia is reached at Fort 
Walla Walla, and from thence the military road can be 
taken either to Fort Steilacoom or Olympia, the seat of 
government, or the various settlements about Puget 
Sound. The Territory only needs men and capital to 
insure its being one of the most thrifty of our posses- 
sions, and when its value is more generally appreciated, 
we may expect to see as rapid an increase in the popu- 
lation as ever California, had in its palmiest days. 



408 THE NORTHWEST COAST ; OR, 



NOTE. 

The following letter from Hon. J. P. Anderson rela- 
tive to the overland route to Washington Territory may 
be considered as giving the most reliable information to 
emigrants. Colonel Anderson writes from personal ex- 
perience. 

"Washington City, Feb. 19, 1857. 

" Dear Swan, — Yours of the 16th reached me in due 
time. 

"Emigrants to Puget Sound ought to leave Fort 
Leavenworth or Council Bluffs between the 20th of April 
and the 15th of May, cross the Rocky Mountains at the 
South Pass, proceed by Forts Hall and Boise to the 
Grand Eonde, thence on to Walla Walla. There is S 
road all the way. The distance to Walla Walla is some- 
thing like 2200 miles. Thence to the Sound, by the 
military road over the Cascade Mountains, through the 
Wachess Pass, is 210 miles. From Walla Walla, or, 
rather. Whitman's Old Mission, thirty miles this side 
(east) of Walla Walla, those who desire to go down the 
Columbia River, say to Vancouver, Portland, Astoria, 
etc., should turn off to the left^ taking the Indian Agency 
on the Umatilla and Fort Henrietta in their way to the 
Dalles. 

" This is on the old established emigrant road. It 
is a plain wagon-way from Missouri to Walla Walla. 
It leaves the California road in the vicinity of the Soda 
Springs, on the west side of the Rocky Mountains. 
Emigrants ought to buy Walker's (or some other) Guide- 



THREE YEAES AT SHOAL-WATER BAY. 409 

book before leaving the Missouri Eiver, for the purpose 
of learning where the best water and grass are to be 
found. Dozens of these Guide-books are to be bought 
any where on the frontier. After the first few days out, 
they ought to guard their stock every night Indians 
loill steal them unless they are watched closely. As 
soon as the novelty wears off, emigrants are too apt to 
become careless, thinking there is no danger, and just 
then their cattle are stolen, and they are left afoot. 
Hence nearly aU of the suffering on the Plains. They 
are always in too great a hurry. If an ox gets lame or 
a little sick, they will turn him out and leave him rather 
than be detained half a day. This should not be done. 
They ought to wait and watch him till he gets well. 
Stop the whole train ; let no one stay behind to bring 
him up. 

" In haste, yours truly, 

" J. Patton Anderson." 
S 



APPENDIX. 



The following extracts from the treaty between the United States 
and Great Britain, relative to the limits of the territory west of the 
Eocky Mountains, and in reference to the rights of the Hudson Bay 
Company, will show that, while the United States government recognize 
the claims of the Hudson Bay Company as actual settlers, they do not 
agree to pay the Company any sum to extinguish their title to lands, 
except in case any of such land should become of pubhc and political 
importance. 

^ The extracts from the Donation law, and also of the present law of 
the Territory relative to the purchase of land, will show the inducements 
lield out to emigrants by the government, and also the method to be 
adopted at present to purchase land. It will be seen that at present 
the donation law has ceased, but any person can purchase surveyed 
lands for one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre. 

Extract from Treaty between the United States and Great Britain of 
Lands westward of the Rocky Mountains. Concluded Jime 15^^,1846. 

Aet. m. In the future appropriation of the territory south of the 
forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, as provided in the first article of 
this treaty, the possessory rights of the Hudson Bay Company, and of 
all British subjects who may be already in occupation of land or other 
property lawfully acquired within said territory, shall be respected. 

Aet. rV. The farms, lands, and other property of every description, 
belonging to the Puget Sound Agricultural Company, on the north side 
of the Columbia Eiver, shall be confirmed to the said Company. In 
case, however, the situation of those farms and lands should be consid- 
ered by the United States to be of public and political importance, and 
the United States government should signify a desire to obtain posses- 
sion of the whole or any part thereof, the property so required shall 
be transferred to the said goveiimient at a proper valuation, to be agreed 
upon between the parties. 

Donation Act of September 27^^,1850. 

Sec. 4. And be it further enacted. That there shall be, and hereby is, 
granted to every white settler or occupant of public lands, American 
half-breeds included, above the age of eighteen years, being a citizen of 
the United States, or ha-ving made a declaration on or before the first 
day of December, eighteen hundred and fifty-one, now residing in the 



412 



APPENDIX. 



Territory, or who shalUbecome a resident before the said first of De- 
cember, 1851, and who shall have resided on and cultivated the same 
for four consecutive years, and shall otherwise conform to the provisions 
of this act, the quantity of one half section, or three hundred and twen- 
ty acres of land, if a single man ; and if a married man, or if he shall 
become married within one year from the first day of December, 1850, 
the quantity of one section, or six hundred and forty acres, one half to 
himself and the other half to his wife, to be held by her in her own 
right ; and the surveyor shall designate the part enuring to the husband 
and that to the wife, and enter the same on the records of his ofiice. 

Sec. 5. Grants to all persons, as mentioned in the previous act, who 
arrive in the Territory to settle between December 1st, 1850, and De- 
cember, 1853, to a single man, one quarter section, or 120 acres of land; 



Donation Act of February l^th^ 1853. 

Sec. 1. Provides that persons may be permitted, after occupation for 
two years of land, to purchase the same at one dollar and twenty-five 
cents per acre. 

Sec. 3. Limits the Donation Act to December 1st, 1855, at which 
time all persons must file notices of claims. 

Since that period, any actual settler can purchase the land on which his 
claim is located, provided the land has been surveyed^ at the rates mentioned 
in Section First. 

The organic act by which Washington was created a separate Terri- 
tory from Oregon was passed March 2, 1853. Among the first acts 
passed by the Territory of Washington was one for the preservation of 
oysters and other shell-fish^ as Washington Territory is the only place 
from whence the supply of oysters is procured for the California market. 

Another early act was to appoint pilot commissioners to select pilots 
for the Columbia River and Shoal-water Bay. 



A VOCABIJLAET OF THE ChEHALIS AND CheNOOK OR JarGON LAN- 
GUAGES, WITH THE Derivation of the Words used in the 

LATTER. 

Chehalis. 
A. 
Aiilsh, to-morrow. 
AJt'chote, a bear. 
A-quail'shiltl, north wind. 
Ar'yuk, small clams. 



Aas'ah-wah, give it. 
Aas'ah-wah kahl', get water. 
Aas-er, come. 
Aas-er-le, come quickly. 



Cam'mass, the edible root of the Car'kar, girl. 

Cammassia esculenta. Carlioo, female infant. 



APPENDIX. 



413 



Car'mox, dog. 
Che-cose', mussels. 
Che-poo'chucks, beard. 
Chett'low, oysters. 
Chesp, neck. 
Chutl, three. 

Cla-ath'a-lum, east wind. 
Cla'koo, snow. 
Cla'koon, good. 
Cla-wilmsh', Indian. 



Clolum, quahaug clam. 

Clunge, mouth. 

Co'lish, how are you — a salutation 

on meeting. 
Co-mailth', daughter. 
Con-nath in-nis-ku, an expression 

of derision. 
Cucklio, a small viviparous fish like 

the perch. 
Cu-shu', hog. 



D. 



Der-chee'to-che-ny, humming-bird. 



Eath'wil-ly, flesh. 
E-kap'pa, haiL 



E. 

E-lip, first. 
El-le-caid', slave. 



H. 

Haslitch, liver. Hu-litn', make. 

Hone'gin, an expression of impa- Hur-leit'za, stop, be quiet, 
tience. Hur-sache', bad. 

J. 

Jo'quitl, get up. Jo'quitl po-ko'ge-pah whid'tuck, get 

Jo'quitl omtz ta kahl, get up and up and make a fire, quick. 
give me water. 



Kae'poor, needle. 
Kaer'huch, crab. 
Kaer-ux'o, crooked nose. 



K. 

Kahl, water. 
Klalcoon, good. 



L. 

Le-vorelitch, bottle. 

M. 

Mailte, no. Mitch-ip, fire. 

Me-tar' or sme-tar', large sea- Mock'sa, nose, 
clams. Moo'ser, eyes. 

Mis'chin, lice. Mose, four. 



Nar-whatl', yes. 



N. 
Nookh', you. 



414 



APPENDIX. 



O. 



Oh-whitr, another. 
Omtz, give. 



Par'nich, ten. 
Pe'cose, freckled. 



^Quac'a-cliose, forehead. 
Qua-ho'no-ish, finger. 
Queerlios, to strike, to wound. 
Quer-lo'e-chintl, bear-berry (Ar- 
butus uva ursi). 



Omtz ta kahl, give me water. 

P. 

Pow, one. 



Q. 

Quer'que-lin, mouse. 
Que'tark, elk. 
Que-tone', son. 
Qui-natch', get. 
Quin'ish, brother. 



Saer'tich, six. 

Sak-tolm, paddle. 

Sarctl, the reply to Colish, as 

Co'lish te, How do you do ? 

Sarctl, Thank you, very well. 
Sartl, two. 
Schoh, old man. 
Schoue, ice. 
Se-cartr, spruce-tree. 
She-ee'sinch, shrimp. 
She-o'quintl, cedar. 
Shooks'quitl, to-day. 
Shug'war, get out of the way, move 

along. 
Skaer'kut-tle, woman. 
Ske'poor, rabbit. 



Taerkh, bone. 
Tah-lass', foot. 
Tah'ness, knee. 
Ta'hun-er, king-fisher. 
Tarn, what. 
Tar-mo'hoks, beads. 
Ta-squilms', heart. 
Tat-kloke'tat-arles, God. 
Teh'a-ner, blue jay. 
Ten- a -man' chathl', my little 
daughter. 



Sme-tar', bowl. 

Sme-tarx' or me-tarx', large sea- 
clam. 

Smo'o-lum, carrots or parsnips. 

Snatchm', old woman. 

Soil'me, cranberries. 

Squeo, squirrel. 

Squillim, heart. 

Squin-too', poultry/ partridges. 

Squin'tum, white man. 

Squin'tum sme-tar', earthen or 
crockery bowl. 

Stay-a-ough', man. 

Sus'per-ter, hip. 

Swin-ailsh', a large viviparous fish 
like the menhaden. 

T. 

Ten- a -man' que -tone', my little 

son. 
Ten-a-mart', head. 
Ten-a-mose', eye. 
Ten-a-muck'um, throat. 
Ten-a-mux', nose. 
Ten-a-quel-ah'koo, my wife. 
Ten-arts'lits, veins. 
Ten-chait', elder brother. 
Tene-ai', elder sister. 
Ten-kaer', my mother. 



I 





APPENDIX. 


415 


Ten-kah', my father. 


Ten-tseulth, leg. 




Ten-kahmtn', breast. 


Tents-ho'mish, arm. 




Ten-kunge, mouth. 


Ten-yan-ness', tooth. 




Ten-la-houtch', windpipe. 


Thluck'nist, shoulder. 




Ten-mo'qua, face. 


Tole, boy. 




Ten-nisch', younger brother 


Tol-neuch', west wind. 




Ten-pake', back. 


Tolo, infant boy. 




Ten-pa-pa-ar'ich, nail. 


Too'lux, south wind. 




Ten-pesch, younger sister. 


Tsa'ilich, five. 




Ten-quel-lan', ear. 


Tsa'kuns, stick. 




Ten-sarst', stomach. 


Tsa'mose, eight. 




Ten-shen', my husband. 


Tsoo'itl, feet. 




Ten-squails', blood. 


Tsopes, seven. 




Ten-sta'ko-noVeesh, hand. 


Tsuck'oke, hip-joint. 




Ten-taok'-tse, tongue. 


Tsum, writing, printing, or 


pic- 


Ten-thle-quart', hair. 


tures. 




Ten-tome', navel. 


Tuck, salmon eggs. 




Ten-tsa'whait, bladder. 


Tuckh, shut. 




Ten-tse-kwok', thigh. 


Tuck'ho, nine. 

U. 

Unz, I. 

W. 




Wap'pa-loot'za, owl. 


Whid'tuk, hurry. 




War'tich, who. ' 


Wohk'sa, go. 




Wee'a-hun, turn round. 


Wohk'sa cla-ag'e-pah, go get wood. 


Whe'ark, eagle. 






Yan-jan'ka, necklace. 


Y. 

Yel-loh', whale. 





ChenooTc or Jargon. 

The abbreviations are Che. for Chenook, Fr. for French, Eng. for English. 

A. 



Ab'bah, Che.^ well then. 
Ae'kik, Che., fish-hook. 
Aet'-choot or a'chote, Che., a bear. 
Al'ki, Che., by-and-by. . 
Al-loy'ma, Che., another. 
Al'ta, Che., now. 



An-nah', Che., exclamation of as- 
tonishment. 
Ap'pola, Che., any thing roasted. 
Ar-hue'yo, Che., a chest. 
Arts, Che., sister. 
Arts'poe, Che., fleas. 



An'kar-ty, Che., of old time, or A-to'ke-te-ni-ka ait'semar, CAe., 
- time past. have a good.heart. 



416 



APPENDIX. 



B. 

Bos-ton, Eiig.f American. 



Cab, Che.^ where. 

Cah'tah, Che.^ how, why. 

C aim-tux or Kaim-tux, Che.^ I 

have or did understand. 
Ca-nim', Che.^ canoe. 
Ca'pote, Fr., coat. 
Cap-swa'la, Che., to steal. 
Car-de'na, Che., fight. 
Car-mo'sah, Che., beads. 
Car'mox, Che., dog. 
Car'qua, Che., thus, the same. 
Cha-ko, Che., to come. 
Chee, Che., new. 

Chin'ka-min, Che., iron or silver. 
Chitch, Che., grandmother. 
Chupe, CJie., grandfather. 
Cla'il, Che., black, dark colored. 
Clap or Klap, Che., to find. 
Clat'ta-wah, Che., to go. 
Clax'ta, Che., who. 



Cle-men'ti-kote, Che., to lie. 

Clo-clo, Che., oysters. 

Clo-nas', Che., don't know; per- 
haps. 

Clone, Che., three. 

Close or Klosh, Che., good. 

Co-cumb', Che., a swan. 

Cok'shut, Che., break, hurt, or de- 
stroy. 

Cold Il'lihe, winter. 

Cole'ly, Che., lively, sprightly, frol- 
icksome. 

Comb, Eng., comb. 

Co'pah, Che., for, to, with, &c. 

Cul'la-cul'la, Che., birds. 

Cul'tus, Che., trifling, common. 

Cum'tux, Che., to know, to under=- 
stand. 

Cu'shu, Che.^ hog. 



D. 

Da-go, Gie., gnats or musquitoes. Dly, Eng., dry. 
De-late' or Tlaite, Eng., straight. Dly tup'soe, Che., hay. 



Ea'suk, Che., paddle. 
Eat-in-will, Che., ribs. 
E-li-ar-ty, Che., slave. 
En-ah, Che., a beaver. 



Glass, Eng., glass. 
Gleece, Eng., grease. 



E. 

En-a'poe,C%c., lice. 
E'na-tie, Che., the other side. 
En-si 'ka, Che., our or we. 



G. 

Gleece-pire, ^w^., candles. 



H. 



'i 



Hachr or house, Che., house. Hee-hee la'mar, Che., to gamble. 

Hah'lick-ly, Che., open. Hi-ack, Che., make haste, hurry. 

Halo, Che., there is none. Hi-as Cul'tus, Che., worthless. 

Han 'ker-chim,^ri5r., handkerchief. Hi-yu', Che., plenty. 

Hee-hee, Che., laugh. Ho'ey-ho-ey, Che., to exchange. 



APPENDIX. 



417 



How, Che., look here. instance, Hy-as' ca-nim', great 

Hrowl'kult, Che., stubborn. canoe; Hy-as' close, very good.. 

Hy-as', Che., great, very ; as, for Hy-as' Sunday, Che., Christmas. 

I. 

Icht, Che., one. Ick'poee, Che., to shut. 

Icht stick, Che., one yard. H'lihe, Che., earth. 

Ick'ta, Che., what, or thing; as. In-nude, Qhe., across. 

Ick'ta mirka tik-ke, what do you- Ip'soot, Che., to hide. 

want? Cah mi-ka ick'tas, where Is'cum, Che., to get or to receive. 

are your things ? 



K. 



Kae'poor, Che., needle. 

Ka-li'ten, Che., lead, shot. 

Ka'po, Che., a relative older, as an 
older brother, sister, or cousin. 

Kat'suck, Che., midway. 

Kee'quil-ly, Che., down, under. 

Kettle, Eng., a pot or kettle. 

Ke-whap', Che., a hole. 

Ke'yn-tan, Che., a horse. 

Kil'la-pie, Che., to overturn, or to 
return. 

Kil-lic'soe, Che., bottle. 

Kim'ta, Che., behind. 

Ki-noose, Che., tobacco. 

Kla-ceece, Che., stars. 

Klack'han, Che., a fence. 

Kla'hai-yam, Che., poor or unfor- 
tunate. 

Kla-how'ya, Che., how are you. 

Kla-pote, Che., thread. 



Klas'ka, Clie., they. 
Kla-wa', Che., slow. 
Klax'ta, Che., who. 
Kle'men, Che., any thing ground to 

powder. 
Kle'men-saplel, Che., flour. 
Klem'men - kle'mem il-lihe, Che., 

sand. 
Kleutch'man, Che., woman. 
Klip, Che., deep. 
Klock, Che., untie. Mamoke klock- 

lope, untie that rope. 
Kole-ko'le, Che., mouse. 
Kon'a-way, Che., all. 
Kon'sick, Che., how much or how 

many. 
Kow, Che., to tie. 
Kull, Che., hard, tough. 
KuU-kull stick, Che., oak. 



L. 

La bis'cuit,i<V., biscuit, hard bread. Lagomme stick, Fr., pitch knots. 

La blee', Fr. (ble), Avheat. Lake, Eng., lake. 

La bottaile', Fr. (bottaile), bottle. La leem , Fr. (lime), file. 

La bouche', Fr. ( bouche ), the La'ley, Che., long time. 



mouth. 
La breed', Fr. (bride), bridle. 
La cas-sette', Fr. (cassette), trunk 

or chest. 
La chan-delle, Fr., candle. 
Lack'et, Che., four. 
La gomme, Fr., pitch or gum. 



La lupan, Fr. (ruban), ribbon. 
La'mai, Fr. (la mere), old woman 

or the mother. 
La mar', Fr. (main), hand. 
La mo'lu, Fr., wild or Uke a young 

colt.. 
La mon-taigne', Fr., mountain. 

S2 



418 



APPENDIX. 



La mu-ton', Fr. (mouton), sheep. 

La pash-ma', Fr. (blanchet), sad- 
dle blanket. 

La peep', Fr. (pipe), pipe. 

La peir, Fr. (pelle), spade, shovel. 

La pia'ge, Fr. (piege), trap or 
snare. 

La pio'sge, Fr. (pioche), hoe. 

La plash', Fr. (planche), boards. 

La porte', Fr., door. 

La pou'ille, Fr. (poele), fry-pan. 

La queen, uncertain, a saw. 

Larch, Fr. (Forge), barley. 

La selle', Fr. (selle), saddle. 

La sou'ille, Fr. (soie), silk. 

La tamle', Fr. (table), table. 

La ween, Fr. (avoine), oats. 

Lazy, Eng., slow or lazy. 

Le chaise', Fr. (chaise), chain. 

Le coque, Fr., cock. 

Le creme, Fr., cream. 

Le dar, Fr. (dents), teeth. 

Le glow, Fr. (clou), nails. 



Le hache', Fr. (hache), the hatchet. 

Le job, Che., the devil. 

Le kallot, Eiig., carrots. 

Le klee, Eng., key. 

Lek'y, Che., spotted. 

Le lame', Fr. (rame), oar. 

Le lang', Fr. (langue), tongue. 

Le loo', Fr. (loup), wolf. 

Le nez', Fr. (nez), the nose. 

Le pied', Fr. (pied), foot. 

Le plate', Fr. (pretre), priest. 

Le poor', Fr. (pois), peas. 

Le poulet, Fr., hen. 

Le saik', Fr. (sac), bag or sack. 

Le tete', Fr. (tete), the head. 

Lice, Eng., rice. 

Lip-a-lip, Che., to boil. 

Lis'quis, Che., mat. 

Lo'lo, Che., bring or carry. 

Lope, Eng., rope. 

Luck-wul'la, Che., nut. 

Lum, Eng., rum. 

Lu'pul-la, Che., back. 



M. 



Ma'moke, Che., work. 

Ma-moke la pou'ille, to fry any 

thing. 
Man, Eng., man. 
Mar'koke, Che., trade. 
Marsh, Che., put off until, &c., as. 

Marsh mi-ka ca'pote, put off 

your coat. 
Mar'tin-ly, Che., at a distance off 

shore. 
Mart'quil-ly, Che., toward the 

shore or on shore. 
Mem'e-lose, Che., dead. 
Mer'cie, Fr. (je vous remercie), 

thanks. 



Me-si'ka, Che., yours. 
Mia'mi, Che., down stream. 
Mid'lait, Che., stop, put, &c. 
Mi'ka, Che., you. 
Mit'quit, Che., stand up. 
Mo'lack, Che., elk. 
Moo'la, Fr. (moulin), mill. 
Moos-a-moos, Che., beef. 
Moo'sum, Che., sleep. 
Mo'wich, Che., deer. 
Mox, Che., two. 

Mox-poh, Che., double barrel gun. 
Muck'a-muck, Che., food, to eat. 
Mu-sa'chee, Che., bad. 



Na-nar'mox, Che., otter. 
Nar'nitch, Che., see. 
Nar'tle-ly, Che., is it not so ? 



N. 

Nar-wifka, Che., yes. 
Ne'whar, Che., how is it ? 
Ni'ka or Nai'ka, Che., 1, 



APPENDIX. 



419 



I 



Oi'cut, Che., road. 
Oiee, Che., small clams. 
Ois'kin, Che., cup. 
Oke, Che., those or that. 
O'koke, Che., this. 
Oli-kai'yu, Che., seal. 
O'lil-lies, Che., berries. 
O'lo, Che., hungry. 



Par'tle, Che., full. 

Par'tle lum, Che., full of mm, or 

drunk. 
Pay or pee, Che., but, with, and. 
Pe-chuck', Che., green. 
Pel'ton, Che., drunk or foolish. 
Pe-sioux', Che., French. 
Pil, Che., red. 
Pil'pil, Che., blood. 
Pire, Ung., fire. 



Qua'nice, Clie., whale. 
Qua'ni-sum, Che., 
Quass, Che., afraid. 
Queo'queo, Che., finger-ring. 
Qui'cer, Che., porpoise. 
Qui'etz, Che., nine. 



0-luck', Che., snake. 
Oo'moor, Che., large sea clams. 
Ope'cher, Che., knife. 
Ope'quin, Che., basket. 
O'pooche, Che., tail. 
Ote'quei-mar, mussels. 
Ow, Che., brother. 

P. 

Pire olil-lies, Che., ripe berries. 
Pi-she-ak', Che., exhausted. 
Pish-pish, Ung. (puss), cat. 
Pi-thik', Che., thick. 
Po, Che., gun. 
Po'lak-a-ly, Che., night. 
Po'lal-]y, Che., powder. 
Po'lal-ly iriihe, Che., sand. 
Pos-sis'see, Che., blanket. 
Pot'latch, Che., give or gift. 

Q. 

Quirian, Che., ear. 

Qui'nim, Che., five. 

Qui'pet, Che., stop, finish, done. 

Quit-chad'dy, Che., rabbit. 

Quit'tle, Che., shoot, hunt, kill. 



Saliil-li, Che., up. 

Sail, Eng., calico, cotton cloth. 

Sal-mon, Sng., salmon. 

Sap'pe-lail, Che., flour. 

Scal'la-been, Eng. (carabine), rifle. 

Se-ar'host, Che., eye, face, coun- 
tenance. 

Sear'portl, Che., cap, hat. 

See'py, Che., crooked. 

Seix, Che., friend. 

Se-kar'lox, Che., pantaloons, leg- 
gins. 

Sen'na-mox, Che., 

Shar'ty, Che., sing. 



S. 

Shet'sam, Che., swim. 
Si-ah', Che., far ofi: 
Sick-tum-tum, Che., sorrow. 
Si'lix, Che., angry. 
Sil-sil, Che., buttons. 
Sit'kum, Che., half. 
Sit'kum-sun, Che., noon. 
Si-wash', jPr. (sauvage), Indian. 
Skad, Che., a mole. 
Ska-kairk, Che., hawk. 
Skoo'kum, Che., strong. 
Skoo-kum' or Sku-kum', Che., evil 

spirits. 
Skub^by-you, Che., skunk. 



420 



APPENDIX, 



Skud'so, Che.y squirrel. 
Smock-smock, Che., grouse. 
Snass, Che,, rain. 
Soil'me, Che.^ cranberries. 



Soo'tie, Che., mouse. 
Stopeliin, Che., eight. 
Swaa'wa, Che., panther. 



Ta-co-mo'nak, Che., one hundred. 
Ta-hum', Che., six. 
Ta-mo'lich, Che., bar^l. 
Tant'ki, Che., yesterday. 
Tat-te'lum, Che., ten. 
Te-ar'wit, Che., foot, leg. 
Te-cope', Che., white. 
Tee-he or hee-hee, Che., laugh. 
Te-nas, Che., small. 
Tick-air'chy, Che., although. 
Ti-ki, Che., want. 
Til-li-cum, Che., man. 
Tin-tin, Che., music, bells. 
Tlcul', Che., still. 
Tli-cup', Che., to cut. 



To'lo, Che., to win. 

To-man'a-wos or To-mah'na-wos, 

Che., medicine, or medicine-man, 

magic. 
Too-tooche' Che., breasts, milk. 
Too-tooche' gleece, Che., butter. 
Tsick-tsick, Che., wagon. 
Tsuck, Che., water. 
Tul or Til, Che., heavy, tired. 
Tum-tsuck, Che., waterfall. 
Tum'tum, Che., heart, soul, mind. 
Tup 'so, Che., grass, hair, leaves. 
Ty-ee', Che., chief. 
Tzae, Che., sweet. 

U. 



Ul'ti-cut, Che., long. 

W. 

Wagh, Che., spill. Wap'pa-too, Che., potatoes. 

Wake, Che., no. Warm illihe, Che., summer. 

Wake-kon'sick, Che., never. Waugh-waugh, Che., ow. 

Wap'pa-too, Che., the bulb of the Wa'wa, Che., talk. 

saggittafolia or arrow-head, an Wha'ah, Che., an exclamation. 



edible root. 



Ya-chost', Che., belly. 
Ya-ka, Che., he, she, or it. 
Ya'kol-la, Che., eagle. 
Yak'soot, Che., hair. 



Wicht Che., also, then, after. 



Y. 



Ya-qua', Che., here. 

Ya'wa, Che., there. 

Youl'ti-cut or ul-ti-cut, CAc, long. 







NUMEEALS. 






Chehalis. 




Chenook. 


One, 


pow, 




icht. 


Two, 


sartl, 




mox. 


Three, 


chutl, 




clone. 


Four, 


mose. 




lack'it. 


Five, 


tsai-litch, 




qui'nim. 



APPENDIX. 



421 



SLx, 

Seven, 

Eight, 

Nine, 

Ten, 

Eleven, 

Twelve, 

Thirteen, 

Fourteen, 

Fifteen, 

Sixteen, 

Seventeen, 

Eighteen, 

Nineteen, 

Twenty, 

Thirty, 

Forty, 

Fifty, 

Sixty, 

Seventy, 

Eighty, 

Ninety, 

One hundred, 

One thousand, 



Chehalis. 
saer-tich, 
tsopes, 
tsa-mose, 
tuck-ho, 
par-nich, 
par-nich-ten-pow, 
par-nich-ten-sartl, 
par-nieh-ten-chutl, 
par-nich-ten-mose, 
par-nich-ten-tsai-litch', 
par-nich-ten-saer-tich', 
par-nich-ten-tsopes, 
par-nich-t en-ts a-mose, 
par-nich-ten-tuck-ho, 
par-nich-ten-par-nich, 
chutl-par-nich, 
mose-par-nich, 
tsai-litch-ten-par-nich, 
saer-tich-ten-par-nich, 
tsopes-tat-par-nich , 
tsa-mose-ten-par-nich, 
tuck-ho-par-nich, 
ten par-nich-tat-par-nich. 



Chenook. 
ta-hum. 
sin'na-mox. 
stope'kin. 
qui'etz. 
tat-te-lum. 
tat-te-lum pe icht. 
tat-te-lum pe mox. 
tat-te-lum pe clone, 
tat-te-lum pe lack'it. 
tat-te-lum pe qui'nim. 
tat-te-lum pe ta'hum. 
tat-te-lum pe sin'na-mox, 
tat-te-lum pe stope'kin. 
tat-te-lum pe qui'etz. 
mox tat-te-lum. 
clone tat-te-lum. 
lack'it tat-te-lum. 
qui'nim tat-te-lum. 
ta'hum tat-te-lum. 
sin'na-mox tat-te-lum. 
stope'kin tat-te-lum. 
qui'etz tat-te-lum. 
icht ta-co-mo-nack. 
icht hy-as-ta-co-mo-nack. 



List of Words in the Nootkan Language the most in use, from John R. 
JewetVs Narrative of the Massacre of the Crew of the Ship Boston by 
the Savages of Queen Charlotte's Sound, 1803. 

Ar-smoo-tish check-up, a warrior. Coo-coo-ho-sa, seal. 

Ar-teese, to bathe. Een-a-qui-shit-tle, to kindle a fire. 

Cha-alt-see-klat-tm-wah, go off or Ein-nuk-see, fire or fuel. 

away. Em-me-chap, to play. 

Cha-hak, fresh water. Hah-welhs, hungry. 

Cham-mass, fruit. Hap-se-up, hair. 

Cham-mass-ish, sweet or pleasant He-ho, yes. 



to the taste. 
Chap-atz, canoe. 
Check-up, man. 
Chee-chee, teeth. 
Chee-me-na, a fish-hook. 
Chee-poke, copper. 
Che-men, fish-hooks. 
Chit-ta-yek, knife or dagger. 
Choop, tongue. 



Hoo-ma-hex-a, mother, 
I-yah-ish, much. 

I-yer-ma-hah, I do not understand. 
Kah-ah-coh, bring it. 
Kah-ah-pah-chilt, give me some- 
thing. 
Kak-koelth, slave. 
Kas-see, eyes. 
Kat-lah-tik, brother. 



422 



APPENDIX. 



Klack-e-miss, oil. 
Klack-ko ty-ee, thank ye, chief. 
Klat-tur-miss, earth. 
Kle-war, to laugh. 
Klick-er-yek, rings. 
Klish-klin, feet. 
Kloos-a-mit, herring. 
Kloot-chem-up, sister. 
Klootz-mah, woman. 
Klu-shish, good. 
Kom-me-tak, I understand. 
Kook-a-nik-sa, hands. 
Mac-kam-mah-shish, do you want 

to buy ? 
Mah-hack, whale. 
Ma-mook, to sell. 
Ma-mook su-mah, to go to fish. 
Mar-met-ta, goose or duck. 
Meit-la, rain. 
Mook-see, rock. 
Moot-sus, powder. 
Moo-watch, bear. 
Muk-ka-tee, house. 
Naet-sa, nose. 
Nee-sim-mer-hiss, enough. 
Noot-che, mountain or hill. 



Noo-wex-a, father. 

Oo-nah, how many ? 

Oo-phelth, sun or moon. 

Oo-wha-pa, paddle. 

Par-pee, ears. 

Pook-shit-tle, to blow. 

Po-shak, bad. 

Pow or po, the report of a gun. 

Pow-ee, halibut. 

Quart-lah, sea-otter. 

Queece, snow. 

Quish-ar, smoke. 

See-ya-poks, cap or hat. 

Sick-a-min-ny, iron. 

Sie-yah, sky. 

So-har, salmon. 

Tan-as-sis, child. 

Tan-as-sis check-up, son. 

Tan-as-sis kloots-mah, daughter. 

Tar-toose, stars. 

Taw-hat-se-tee, head. 

Toop-elth, sea. 

Toop-helth, cloth. 

Toosch-qua, cod. 

Ty-ee, chief. 

Wik, no. 



Comparative Words in the Nootka and Chenooh or Jargon, 



Nootka. 
Klootz-mah, 
Tan-as-sis, 
Sick-a-min-ny, 
Ma-mook, 
Kom-me-tak, 
Klu-shish, or, asMeares) 
writes, Cloosh, ) 

Ty-ee, 
See-ya-poks, 
Klack-ko, 
Pow, 

Klat-tur-wah, 
Wik, 



Chenook. 
klooch-man, 
ta-nas, 
chink-a-min, 
ma-mook, 
kum-tux, 

klose, 

ty-ee, 

sear-portl, 

klac-koon, 

pow or po, 

clat-te-wah, 

wake, 



woman. 

child or any thing small. 

iron. 

work. 

understand. 

good. 

chief. 

cap or hat. 

good. 

report of a gun or cannon. 

go off or go away. 

no. 



APPENDIX. 



423 



Account of the Vessels engaged in the Sea-otter Fur-trade 
ON THE Northwest Coast prior to 1808. 

In the following account of American vessels, it will be perceived 
that the latest date is 1807. From that time to the close of the War 
of 1812 the fur-trade was rather to be considered as the Columbia 
River trade, and the names of such vessels can be found in the text up 
to the time when Astoria was sold to the Northwest Company. I 
should have published a full list of the early traders to the Columbia, 
but could get no authentic statement. \ 

List of American Vessels engaged in the Trade of the Northwest Coast 
of America for Sea-otter Skins from 1787 to 1809, compiled by William 



Tufts, Esq., from his 


own Memoranda, 


ind from the very valuable 


Notes kindly furnished by Captain 


William 


Sturgis, of Boston. 


Time of 
sailing. 


Vessels' Names. 


Masters. 


Where 
owned. 


Owners. 


What Years 
on the Coast. 


1787 


Ship Columbia. 


Kendrick. 


Boston. 


Barrel!, Bulfinch 
&Co. 


1788, 1789. 


1787 


Sloop Washington. 


Gray. 


do. 


do. do. 


1788.* 


1788 
1789 


None. 










1790 


Ship Columbia. 


Gray. 


do," 


do. do. 


1791, 1792. t 


1792 


Sloop Union. 


Boyd. 


do. 


Not known. 


1793. 


1792 


Ship Jefferson. 


Roberts. 


do. 




■ 


1792 


Brig Hancock. 


Crowell. 


do. 




■t 


1792 


Ship Margaret. 


Magee. 


do. 




1792 


Brig Hope. 


Ingraham.5 


do. 






17t!5 


Snow Sea Otter. 


Hill. 


do' 




1796, 1T97.1I 


1795 


Schr. 


Newbury. 


do. 




1796. 


1796 


Ship Dispatch. 


Bowers. 


do. 


Dorr and Sons. 


1797. 


1796 ■ 


Ship Indian Packet. 


Rogers. 


do. 


do. 


1797. 


1796 


Ship Hazard. 


Swift. 


do. 


Perkins, Lamb & 
Co. 


1797, 1798. 


1797 


Not known. 










1798 


Ship Eliza. 


Rowan. 


do. 


Perkins, T.amb & 
Co. 


1799. 


1798 


Ship Ulysses. 


T.amb. 


do. 


Lamb and others. 


1799. 


1798 


Ship Hancock. 


Crocker. 


do. 


Dorr and Sons. 


1799. 


1798 


Ship Dispatch. 


Breck. 


do. 


do. 


1799. 


1798 


Ship Dove. 


Duffin. 


Canton. 


Not known. 


1799. 


1798 


Ship Cheerful. 


Beck. 


do. 


do. 


1799. 


1T98 


Sloop Dragon. 


Cleaveland. 


do. 


Cleaveland and 
others. 


1799. 


1799 


Ship Alert. 


Bowles. 


Boston. 


Lamb and others. 


180a 


1799 


Ship Jenny. 


Bowers. 


do. 


Dorr and Sons. 


1800. 


1799 


Ship Alexander. 


Dodd. 


do. 


Bass and others. 


1800. 


1799 


Schr. Rover. 


Davidson. 


do. 


Dorr and Sons. 


1800. 


1799 


Ship Dove. 


Duffin. 


Canton. 




1800. 


1799 


Ship Hazard. 


Swift. 


Boston, 


Perkins & others. 


1800, 1801. 


1800 


Ship Charlotte. 


Ingersoll. 


do. 




1801. 



• Remained on the Coast under Captain Kendrick for many years. Gray went 
home in the Columbia ; Kendrick was accidentally killed at the Sandwich Islands, 
t Discovered Columbia River. 

t Time of sailing, time on the coast, and owners not known. 
§ Discovered the Washington Islands, South Pacific. || Captain killed. 



424 



APPENDIX. 



Time of 

Bailing. 


Vessels' Names. 


'- Masters. 


Where 
owned. 


Owners, 


What Years 
on the Coast. 


1800 


Ship Guatimozln. 


Bumstead. 


Boston. 


T. Lyman and 
others. 


1801. 


1800 


Ship Atahualpa. 


Wildes. 


do. 


do. 


1801. 


1800 


Ship Glohe. 


Magee. 


do. 


Perkins, Lamb 
and others. 


1801, 1802.' 


1800 


Ship Carolina. 


Derby. 


do. 


do. do. 


1801, 1802. t 


1800 


Ship Manchester. 


Brice. 


Philadel'a. 




1801, 1802. 


1800 


Ship Lucy. 


Pierpont. 


Boston. 


Cobb and others. 


1801. 


1800 


Ship Dispatch. 


Dorr. 


do. 


Dorr and Sons. 


180L 


1800 


Ship Belle Savage. 


Ockington. 


do. 


J. Cooledge. 


1801. 


1800 


Ship Enterprise. 


Hubbell. 


New York. 


Hoy and Thorn. 


1801. 


1800 


Brig Lavinia. 


Hubbard. 


Bristol,R.I. 


R. J. De Wolf. 


1801. 


1800 


Brig Littiler. 


Dorr. 


Boston. 


Dorr and Sons. 


1801. 


1800 


Brig Polly. 


Kelly. 


do. 


Thomas Parish. 


1801. 


ISOl 


Ship Alert 


Ebbetts, 


do. 


Lamb and others. 


1802, 1803. 


1801 


Ship Catharine. 


Worth. 


do. 


J. Cooledge. 


1802. 


1801 


Ship Jenny. 


Crocker. 


do. 


Dorr and Sons. 


1802. 


1801 


Schr. Hetty. 
Ship Vancouver. 


Briggs. 
Brown. 


Philadel'a. 




1802. 


1801 


Boston. 


Lyman & others. 


1802, 1803. 


ISOl 


Ship Juno. 


Kendrick. 


Bristol, R. I. 


De Wolf. 


1802, 1803. 


1802 


Ship Mary. 


Bowles. 


Boston. 


J. Gray. 


lS03.t 


1802 


Ship Guatimozin. 


Bumstead. 


do. 


Lyman & others. 


1803, 1804. 


18112 


Ship Hazard. 


Swift. 


do. 


Perkins & others. 


1803, 1804 


1802 


Ship Boston. 


Salter. 


do. 


T. Amory. 


1803.§ 


1803 


Ship Atahualpa. 


0. Porter. 


do. 


T. Lj-man and 
others. 


1804, 1805.11 


1803 


Ship Caroline. 


Sturgis. 


do. 


Lamb and others. 


1804, 1805. 


180-4 


Ship Mary. 


Trescott. 


do. 


J. Gray. 


1805.11 


1-04 


Ship Vancouver. 


Brown. 


do. 


Thomas Lyman. 


1S05, 1806. 


1804 


Ship Pearl. 


Ebbetts. 


do. 


Lamb and others. 


1805, 1806. 


1804 


Ship Juno. 


De Wolf. 


Bristol. 


De AVolf. 


1805. 


1804 


Brig Lydia. 


Hill. 


Boston. 


T. Lyman. 


1805, 1806. 


1S05 1 Ship Hamilton. 


L. Porter. 


do. 


do. 


1806, 1807. 


18' 5 jShip Hazard. 


Smith. 


do. 


Perkins & others. 


1806, 1807. 


1806 i Ship Derby. 


Swift 


do. 


do. do. 


1807, 1808. 


1806 


Ship Guatimozin. 


Glanville. 


do. 


T. Lyman. 


1807,1808.** 


1806 


Ship Atahualpa. 


Sturgis. 


do. 


do. 


1807. 


1807 


Ship Pearl. 


Suter. 


do. 


Perkins & others. 


1S08, 1809. 


18:!T 


Ship Vancouver. 


^^^littemo^e. 


do. 


do. do. 


1808, 1809. 



The number of sea-otter skins shipped from the Northwest Coast to 
Canton in 1799 were 11,000 

1800 9,500 

1801 14,000 

1802 14,000—48,500. 

Mr. Tufts writes, under date of Bost6n, Tebruary 3d, 1857, 
"The foregoing list is nearly correct as it regards the vessels en- 
gaged in the early trade in sea-otter skins by American enterprise. The 
owners in all cases are not known. There may have been other ves- 
sels on the Coast during the time who were engaged in collecting the 
smaller skins and less valuable furs, but the above are the regular 
Northwest traders for sea-otter skins. 

* Captain killed. t Captain died. t Captain died. 

§ All the crew killed by the natives at Nootka Sound except two men, and the 
vessel afterward accidentally burned. 

y The captain, officers, and many of the men killed by Indians at Millbank ^ound. 
IT Wrecked on her passage home. 
** Wrecked on the coast of New Jersey, Feb. 3, 1810. 



APPENDIX. 425 

" I have obtained the most of my information from Captain Stnrgis, 
who very kindly gave me the information which his experience and 
notes rendered extremely valuable. 

" We sailed from Boston (ship Guatimozin, Glanville) July 7th, 1806, 
arrived on the Coast March 20th, 1807, left the Coast September 2-tth, 
1808, and were wrecked on the coast of New Jersey (on Seven-mile 
Beach) the 3d of February, 1810." 

Mr. Tufts was supercargo of the ship. 

^' It is a rather singular fact that some of the first furs ever carried to 
Canton direct from the Northwest Coast should have been by an Amer- 
ican. Lieutenant John Gore, a native of Virginia, who was with Cap- 
tain Cook, took charge of the expedition after the death of the cap- 
tain at Karakoor Bay, Sandwich Islands, and Captain Clerke, who suc- 
ceeded him, and who died at the Eussian settlement of Peter and Paul, 
or Petropawlowsk. Gore sailed from Petropawlowsk, or, as the sailors 
call it at present, Peterpulaski, in October, 1779, and reached Canton 
in the beginning of December. While the ships had been on the 
Northwest Coast, the officers and men had purchased a quantity of furs 
from the natives in exchange for knives, old clothes, buttons, and other 
trifles, not, however, \nth any reference to their value as merchandise, 
but to be used on board ship as clothes or bedding. On their arrival 
at Peterpulaski, they found the Russians anxious to buy all these furs ; 
but, having learned that they were of great value in Canton, concluded 
to take them there, where they sold for money and goods for more than 
ten thousand dollars. 

These furs, and a few carried by Benyowsky in 1770, were the only 
ones that had ever arrived at Canton direct from the Northwest Coast. 



GiavEBAL GiBBS's LETTER ON THE CaUSE OF THE ISDIAN TROUBLES 

Df Washington Tebritoet. 

The following extracts from a letter received from General George 
Gibbs, dated "Port Vose, on Port Townsend, W. T., Jan. 7, 1857," 
give the most reliable information on the subject of the Indian War 
that has been received. 

General Gibbs, who was with Governor Stevens, as secretary to the 
commission, during the making of treaties with the Indians of Wash- 
ington Territory in 1855, and who was afterward chosen as the Briga- 
dier General of the Territory, has throughout the war been so situated 
as to be perfectly cognizant of every event that has transpired worthy 
of note, and his information may be relied on as entirely correct. 

Although General Gibbs does not endorse Governor Stevens's policy, 
yet he substantially takes the same view of the difficulties that I do, 
but with this exception, that, while admitting the ill feeling of the In- 
dians toward the Americans to have existed for several years — as in 



426 APPENDIX. 

the instance of Kamaiyah-kan — he does not go to the root of the diffi- 
culty, and state why the Indians should have this ill feeling toward the 
Americans, and not toward the Hudson Bay Company's people. I have 
charged this state of disaffection directly on to the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany and their employes. 

Genera! Gibbs writes : 

" As to our Indian war, I have not time to go into a proper detail of 
its causes. Of one thing you may be sure ; it did not spring out of any 
outrages on the part of the whites. Its origin was the unwillingness 
of the Indians to have their lands intruded on. Kamaiyah-kan, the 
head chief of the Yakamas, has always been opposed to the intrusion 
of the Americans, and as early as 1853 had projected a war of exter- 
mination. Father Pandory, the priest at the Atahnam mission, in the 
spring of that year WTOte to Father Mesplie, the one at the Dalles, de- 
siring him to inform Major Alvord, in command at that post, of the 
fact, and Major Alvord reported it to General Hitchcock, then in com- 
mand on this coast. Hitchcock censured him as an alarmist, and Pan- 
dory was censured by his superior, who forthwith placed a priest of 
higher rank with him. For this reason, when Captain M'Clennan's 
party passed through in the summer of that year, Pandory said nothing 
to us about it, and Major Alvord 's precautionary moves had disconcert- 
ed Kamaiyah-kan's plans. The Indians, however, were not satisfied. 
The next year, Bolon, the agent, who was afterward killed, learned that 
a council had been held in the Grande Ronde, at which several tribes 
were represented, and the question of peace or war was discussed. Ka- 
maiyah-kan did not attend, but sent his brother Sklome instead, as his 
representative. During all that summer Bolon was unable to meet 
with Kamaiyah-kan, who avoided him, but he saw Sklome on his re- 
turn, who told him that there had been such a council, that he attend- 
ed it, and spoke against war. Later still Bolon met the Lawyer, the 
.Nez Perce council chief, who also informed him of the meeting, and 
said that his tribe were divided in opinion, and that nothing had come 
of it. The project was still agitated during the whole summer of 1855, 
Kamaiyah-kan being the head of the war party, and using his great 
and deserved influence, as the ablest head in aU the tribes, to concen- 
trate them. The plan was now communicated to all the bands on this 
side of the mountains (west of them) who are connected with the Ya- 
kamas and Klikatats, that is to say, to all those lying from the Sno- 
qualmie River southward to the Columbia. The upper bands upon 
the Snoqualmie, Cedar River, Green River (or the Nooscope), "White 
River, the Puyallup, the Nisqually, and the Cowlitz, are all of Yaka- 
ma and Klikatat blood, and speak both languages. On the Cathla- 
poodl the Klikatats have superseded the original tribe, now extinct. 
Leshchi, one of the Nisqually chiefs, was a Yakama by the mother's 
side, and related, I think, to Owhai. He has always been a busy in- 
triguer and a great traveler, and was the principal agent in the matter 



APPENDIX. 427 

on the Soiind side. Considerable portions of all these tribes entered 
into the confederacy. There was a large band of Klikatats who had 
crossed the Columbia River and gone down by way of the Willamette 
to the Umpqua. These, General Palmer, the Oregon superintendent, 
unfortunately, in the course of his treaty operations, sent back to their 
own country in this territory just as the war broke out, to swell the 
ranks of the enemy. All that summer, rumors came in of the intention 
of the Indians to break out. Indian women living with white settlers 
warned their husbands to take care of themselves ; but these reports 
were disregarded, because we had so long slept on the volcano that we 
did not believe it could burn. In July, just as I was going over to Fort 
Vancouver, Patkanam, the Snoqualmie chief, came to Fort Steilacoom 
and desired me to interpret to the oflEicers what he was about to say. 
He brought with him Father D'Harborney, whom I had known at the 
Yakama mission in 1853, and stated that he would say in Klikatat to 
the father what he had to communicate ; that he would tell me in 
French, and I should translate into English, He wanted two witnesses. 
The substance of his statement was, that the Indians on the eastern 
side of the mountains were going to war, and perhaps others would join 
them ; that he would remain neutral, and keep his own people at home, 
and the whites might trust him. Patkanam kept his word through the 
war, and behaved well — better than any one expected of him. On my 
arrival at Fort Vancouver, Yah-ho-tow-it, a Klikatat sub-chief, whom 
I knew, came with Umtrets, another old EQikatat of influence and 
standing in his tribe, and desired me to make a communication to the 
oflScers there. He said there was going to be war, and that it was 
good that the whites should fill the Dalles, Vancouver, and Steilacoom 
with soldiers — not a few, as they were then, but full — many soldiers. 
They promised to remain at home on the Cathlapoodl, and keep their 
men there. Other warnings of like character were given, but we placed 
but little confidence in them, believing that a combination of tribes 
who had many of them been hostile, the one to the other, and among 
all of whom jealousies and divisions existed, was impossible. 

" It was during this summer that the gold was discovered near Fort 
Colville, and many persons went over to the mines, and the murders 
commenced upon them as they were returning. The history of the 
rest I have not time to give you. It has been stated that the first cause 
of the outbreak was an outrage committed on one of the women of 
Te-ai-yas, a chief of the upper or northern band of Yakamas, and eld- 
er brother of Owhai. That this was not so is sufficiently proved by the 
evidence of the party accused, who were men of sufficient character to 
be believed in the matter, as well as by the fact that Te-ai-yas never 
joined in the war. The story, indeed, was not stated till long after. 
But that the war was premeditated by the Indians is evidenced incon- 
trovertibly. They had laid in large stores of powder, and it is said 
that Owhai's son, Kwaltchin, bought at the Dalles 300 lbs. some time 



428 



APPENDIX. 



before the war. The whole character of their preparations, and the 
number of men from different tribes who, as it were, in an instant 
took the field, showed long and well-ai-ranged concert, but it is believed 
the trap was sprung too soon. Kamaiyah-kan wished to wait until the 
Columbia was closed with ice before he commenced the attack, when 
the whites this side the mountains could not go up to aid their friends, 
but the impatience of Kwaltchin thwarted this judicious intention. 

*' On the Sound, the Indians waited until Captain Maloney, Lieuten- 
ant Slaughter, and their men had crossed the Cascades to co-operate 
with Major Haller before they broke out, when they commenced mur- 
dering the citizens on White River. 

" That the governor's treaties had a great deal to do in fomenting 
this war there is no doubt. Those on the Sound were too much hur- 
ried, and the reserv^ations allowed them were insuflScient ; but his grand 
blunder was in bringing together the Nez Perces, WallaWallas, Yakamas, 
and others into one council, and cramming a treaty down their throats 
in a hurry. Still, the treaties were only one item in the reasons for dis- 
affection. Treaties had been made with the Willamette and Columbia 
River Indians, first by a board of commissioners, then by a superin- 
tendent, and none of them ratified, nor payments made under them. 
The Donation Law had very unjustly given to settlers the lands before 
the title was extinguished. The tribes whose country was occupied 
had visibly perished, and the bolder tribes of the prairies east of the 
mountains were determined that they would keep us out, at all events 
till they were paid. They saw that the troops were few, and scattered 
in distant and petty posts ; that they were not mounted, and only one 
station in their country, which they could easily exterminate. The 
Sound Indians, encouraged by hope of support from the Yakamas, 
whom they feared themselves, thought that they, in like manner, could 
clear the Sound, and they came pretty near doing it. But for Captain 
Maloney's fortunate return, they probably would have raised all the 
tribes, taken the unguarded post at Steilacoom, supplied themselves 
with arms and ammunition, and whipped us out. It needed only one 
great success to have enabled them to do this. As to the conduct of 
the war on this side (that is, west of the Cascade range of mountains), 
it has been well managed. Captain Keyes and Colonel Casey, who 
succeeded him in command, acted with judgment and energy ; but the 
war on the other side, directed by Colonel Wright, has been a perfect 
farce. He has proclaimed peace when it only exists because the 
whites have been driven from the country. He left his communica- 
tions behind him unguarded, suffered the Cascades to be taken and 
burned, ran back, gave up an expedition on which he started, under- 
took another, sent back for more troops, and finally, at the head of 
eleven companies of regulars, after talking and feeding the hostiles on 
sugar and flour, marched back without taking a single one of the mur- 
derers, without killing an enemy in the field, without dictating terms, 



APPENDIX. 429 

or doing any thing whatever to chastise or subdue those who were in 
arms. The result is, that all communication by way of the Plains is 
abandoned ; that other tribes, encouraged by the inefficiency of the 
troops, or, rather, of their commander, have joined ; and that the In- 
dians hold undisputed control over the country. 

" Here the principal difficulty will arise from the non-fulfillment of 
the treaties with the friendly tribes. The treaty with the Nisquallies, 
&c., who took up arms, was the only one ratified, and of course they 
will receive their annuities ; while the Lower Sound tribes, who have 
remained peaceable, and have been compelled to suffer* great though 
necessary inconvenience, remain neglected. Whether the treaties are 
good or not, they ought to be ratified, or at least provision made by law 
to pay their annuities as promised. 

"The conduct of the government has been most extraordinary. 
They have suffered a regular and a volunteer war to go on for a whole 
year, and have neither authorized nor stopped the latter. Governor 
Stevens and General Wool have been quarreling, and they have not 
decided in favor of either. In fact, the inaction or want of decision 
shown at Washington has been most culpable. ***** 

"I can not stop to correct the above, or add what may, perhaps, be 
necessary to give connection to the data. What I have meant to show 
was that the war sprung partly from ill-judged legislation, partly from 
previous unratified treaties, and partly from recent blunders. Much is 
due to the natural struggle between the hostile races for the sovereign- 
ty of the soil.""^^jrhe land is at the root of the war, Many outrages 
have been committed since it begun, it is true, but it was not private 
wrongs that led to it. The numerous outrages committed by Indians 
on whites have not been taken into account by those who bleat about 
the ' poor Ii^an.' " 



1 



INDEX 



Achaitlin, a river at Shoal-water Bay, 
page 26. 

Active, United States surveying steamer, 
263. 

Adair, Greneral John, collector at Astoria, 
243. 

Adams, Point, named by Gray, 129. 

Adventure, schooner, 132. 

Adventures with crabs, 82 ; serious adven- 
ture and narrow escape, 144; adventure 
with a bear, 257 ; capsize in the surf, 
272. 

Agassiz, Professor, 207. 

Albatross, ship, 223. 

Alden, Captain James, U. S. Coast Survey, 
reconnaissance of Shoal-water Bay, 21 ; 
his remarks about the Bay, 24 ; steamer 
Active at Point Grenville, 263. 

Aliens causing trouble among Indians, 
387. 

Amoor River, description of, 404. 

Anpeeson, Colonel J. Pattox, his adven- 
ture while taking the census, 355; his 
chase after a butter-duck, 357; speech 
in Congress, 386, 391 ; his account of 
the Falls of the Snoqualmie, 395 ; his 
account of Patkanim and Colonel Sim 
mons, 396 ; the first United States Mar- 
shal of the Territory, 401 ; second dele 
gate to Congress, 402 ; letter of advice 
to emigrants, 408. 

Animals, description of, 28. 

Antiquities of America, 207. 

Anwillik, an Indian sirl, 199 ; her skill in 
making dresses, '200. 

Armstrong's Point at Gray's Harbor, 252 

Arrival from Kodiak, 205. 

Ashley's, General William H., expedition 
across the Eocky Mountains, 233. 

Assumption Inlet, 126. 

Astor, John Jacob, 223. 

Astoria, description of, 223; when named 
225; sold to the Northwest Company, 
228 ; restored to the Americans, 232 ; its 
present appearance, 238 ; military road, 
229. 

Awilkatumar, the bloody ground, on the 
Palux River, Shoal-water Bay, 151. 

Aztec language, 313. 

Baker, captain of brig Jenny, of Bristol, 

129. 
Baker, Captain Eben P., master of schoon 

er Maryland, is drowned, 366. 
Baker's Bay, description of, 100; named 

after the captain of brig Jenny, 129. 
Baking bread, method adopted, 160. 



Baldt, William, our visit to the Columbia, 
97 ; our examination of Chenook, 109 ; 
our adventures on the Portage, 114 ; we 
make a bonfire on Pine Island, 133 ; our 
jury duty, 292; interview with Captain 
Johnson, 296; canoe adventure, 303. 

Barnes, Miss Jane, the first white woman 
who arrived at the Columbia, 230. 

Barrows, J. F., a settler at Shoal-water 
Bay, 284 ; receives me hospitably, 328 ; 
get in a ditch while endeavoring to find 
his house, 354. 

Bartlett, George G., one of the first set- 
tlers at Shoal-water Bay, 25 ; he is call- 
ed Tom by the settlers, 69; his bear- 
fight on Stony Point, 70 ; gives me some 
iron to repair my chimney, 142. 

Battle Rock at Port Orford, 219. 

Bear River, Shoal-water Bay, 26. 

Bear-fight, 69. 

Bear-shooting, 256. 

Bear-skin, 273. 

Beauties of Washington Territory, 6T. 

Beaver, description of, 93. 

Beaver, ship, 224. 

Beeswax found at Clatsop, 206. 

Berries, 88. 

Bird feast, 268. 

Birds, description of, 29. 

Black, captain of sloop of war Raccoon, 
229. 

Blodget, Lorin, quotation from, respecting 
climate, 45. 

Blossom, H. B. M. frigate, 232. 

Blubber feast, 360. 

Bolin, hotel-keeper at Astoria, 238. 

Bolon, Indian agent, 387. 

Bonfires, 54. 

Bonneville, captain of an expedition in 
1S32, 234. 

Bowman, trial of, 279. 

Brandywine, or M'Carty, 102. 

Bread, method of making, 164. 

Brown, Joel L., 64. 

Bro^vn's Point, Gray's Harbor, 253. 

Bruce Companv, 63 ; their great hospital- 
ity, 283. 

BruceviUe or Bruceport, 319. 

Bryonia Alba, 178. 

Bullard, Joel and Mark, early settlers, 64. 

Burial, form of, 185. 

Bush-taU rat, 28. 

Cabbage, method of preserving from In- 
dians, 149. 

Cain's, Captain, report on Indian troubles, 
387. 



432 



INDEX. 



Callicum, an Indian, 213; his cannibal- 
ism, 307. 

Camp at Gray's Harbor, 254; at Copalis 
255; at the treaty-ground on the Che- 
balis River, 337. 

Cannibals, Meares's account of, 213. 

Canoe Eiver, one of the head-waters of the 
Columbia, 121. 

Canoes, description of, 80; method of trav- 
eling in, 248. 

Carcowan, chief of the Chehalis Indians, 
251 ; his son, 329 ; his talk about the 
treaties, S63. 

Carcumcum, a sister of Comcomly, 55 
she tells about the first rum ever brought 
into the Columbia, 156. 

Cartumhaj's or Tomhays, visit to his 
house, 35 ; a cure for the small-pox, 57 
his goose trade, 319. 

Caslah'han, a Chehalis Indian, 252 ; takes 
me and a party to the treaty-ground, 
333 ; an adventure with him, 304. 

Caswell, second mate with Captain Gray, 
murdered at Massacre Cove, 132. 

Catlin Seth, 401. 

Cedar of Port Orford, 219. 

Celebration of 4th of July, 133. 

Champ, John W., one of the first settlers, 
25; visit to the Columbia, 97; his troub 
les on the Portage, 115; his election as 
justice of the peace, 2T»S ; the first trial 
before his court, 279 ; counsel before the 
squire's court, 320; his decision in Wat- 
kins' s case, 365. 

Charley, Big, the constable, 278. 

Chatham, brig. Lieutenant Broughton, en- 
ters the Columbia, 129. 

Chehalis — visit to Gray's Harbor among 
the Chehalis Indians, 254; visit to the 
treaty-ground on the Chehalis River, 
330 ; description of Chehalis River, 333. 

Chenook Indians, description of their vil- 
lage, 110. 

Chenowith, Honorable F. A., 402. 

Cherquel Sha, an Indian, 49. 

Chetzamokha, chief of the Clalams, 17. 

Children's games, 197; songs, 199. 

Chinese among the Indians, 163. 

Christianity as applied to Indians, 193. 

Christmas dinner on crow, 325 ; on skunk, 
326. 

Chutes of the Columbia, 123. 

Clark River, 121. 

Clearing land, 50, 

Cletheas, an Indian, 251 ; relates about the 
Klickatats, 824. 

Climate, Ross Cox's and Vancouver's re- 
marks respecting, 44; Greenhow's and 
Blodget's remarks, 46; further remarks, 
395. 

Clyoquot Bay, 226. 

Cocke, Colonel H. D., 327; at the camp, 
330. 

Colote, an Indian, 322, 

Columbia River, 18 ; visit to, 97 ; history 
and description of, 117, 124 ; cross the 
bar, 220 ; current of, 259. 

Columbia, ship, 20 ; outfit and owners' 
names, 130. 



Colville, Fort, discovery of gold at, 386. 

Comcomly, 230. 

Coon and Woodward, 319. 

Cooper, Dr., 214, 327, 

Copalis, camp at, 255; description of riv- 
er, 258. 

Counsel, argument of, at Chenook, 300. 

Cox, Ross, extracts from his writings, 44, 
53, 225, 

Cradle, description of, 168. 

Crocker, Captain, 359. 

Crows, great flocks of, 149; dinner on 
crow, 325. 

Cure for inflamed eyes, 179. 

Curry stews, 44. 

Cushman, Commissary, 340; his famous 
stories, 342. 

Dtedalus, ship, one of Vancouver's, 129. 

Dalles of the Columbia, 123. 

Dart, Dr., his treaties with the Columbia 

River Indians, 349. 
Davis, Captain George, 866. 
Dawson, George, 243, 29T. 
Debatable Ground, 292. 
Denter, Charles W., or Big Charley, 25; 

elected constable, 278 ; takes Colonel 

Anderson to the Portage, 359. 
Derby, Lieutenant, alias Phoenix, Squi- 

bob, and Butterfield, 238. 
Deserted villages, 212, 
De Smet's letters, 236. 
Destruction Island, 125, 
Devil's Walking-stick, 41, 
Digger Indians burn their dead, 153. 
Dikentra Formosa, an early flowering 

plant, 48, 
Disappointment, Cape, first named by 

Meares, 23 ; Vancouver's remarks upon, 

127, 
Discovery, Vancouver's flag-ship, 129. 
Doctors, Indian, 176. 
Domestic utensils, 163. 
Douglaf, Dr., extracts from history of, 

191, 193. 
Dowler, Dr., of New Orleans, remarks on 

antiquities, 207. 
Ducheney, Roc, Hudson Bay Company's 

agent at Chenook, 109, 313. 
Dunn, John, 377. 
Duponceau's, M., remarks on language of 

American Indians, 311. 

Ebbetts, captain of ship Enterprise, 224 
Edinburg Review's remarks respecting em- 
grants to Oregon, 237. 
Edmands, John, a settler on the Wallacut 

River, 240. 
Election, first, at the Bay, 277. 
Ellewa, a Chenook chief, and his wife, 55. 
Elsie, schooner, the first vessel built in 

the Bay, 282. 
Emigrants, remarks and advice to, 377, 

402, 407. 
Empire, schooner, wreck of, 365. 
Enterprise, ship, 224. 
Evans, Dr., state geologist, 393, 
Eyes, cure for inflammation of, 179, 



INDEX. 



433 



Falls of the Palux, 42, 

Falls of the Snoqualmie, 395. 

Feast at Point Grenville, 268. 

Feister's Portage, 240. 

Felice, ship, 20. 

Fight on the Palux River, 151. 

Fire, method of procuring, 248. 

First emigrants to the Columbia, 235. 

Fisherman's pudding, 326. 

Fishing — on the Columbia, 103; on the Na- 
sal, 135 : on the Palux, 36 ; for sturgeon, 
245. 

Fitting out ship Columbia, 130. 

Flattening hgads, method of, 16T. 

Flowers, 48. 

Ford, Judge Sidney, 330, 342, 355. 

Fort George first named, 229. 

Fort Hall, on the Snake River, 234. 

Foster, Thomas J., 25. 

Fremont, 313. 

Frondo.so, Cape, 126. 

Furs, 96, 425. 

Gales, description of one which caused 

great damage, 143. 
Gambling, description of, 15T. 
Gardiner, Captain, 359. 
Gaultheria Shallon, or Sallal, 48. 
General Warren, steamer, 259. 
George, an Indian, 49, 321. 
Gibbs, General George, 205, 210, 308, 390, 

425. 
Gliddon on languages, 312. 
Goose Point, 27. 
Grand jury at Chenook, 293. 
Gray, Captain Robert, 20, 124, 127, 138. 
Gray's Harbor, 128 ; visit to, 265 ; feast at, 

275 ; a rough place, 330 ; description of, 

394 
Green, John, 364. 
Greenhow, quotations from his work on 

California and Oregon, 44, 130. 
Grenville, Point, 125, 206. 
Grindstone, great quantities of, 259. 

Hahness, the thunder bird, 203. 

Haitlilth, an Indian, 79, 258. 

Hancock, Cape, 129. 

Hanson, Captain Alexander, 25, 283. 

Hayemar, an Indian, 284. 

Heceta, the Spanish navigator, 20. 

Herkoisk, a Copalis chief, 259. 

Heyalma, an Indian, 54. 

Hiawatha, 205. 

Hickey, captain of H. B. M. ship Blossom, 

282. 
Hill, captain of brig Oriental, 17. 
Hillyer, Captain Richard, 25, 282. 
Hinkley, 136. 

History of the Chenooks, 202. 
Holman, J. D., 242, 301. 
Hudson Bay Company, 232, 349, 369, 872. 

Imperial Eagle, ship, of Ostend, 125. 

Indians — superstitions of, 42; arrival of 
Northern tribes of, 59 ; tradition of the 
doctor respecting, 68 ; food of, 86 ; recep- 
tion of friends by, 169 ; mamage ceremo- 
nies of, 170 ; fasts of, 171 ; unbelief in 



Christianity of, 174, 192, 196 ; School- 
craft's remarks on, 152; manners and 
customs of, 154 ; gambling of, 157 ; med- 
icines of, 177, 180, 181 ; games of chil- 
dren of, 197 ; songs of, 200 ; early history 
of, 202 ; General Gibbs' s theory of, 205 ; 
other theories of, 206-210 ; deseited vil- 
lages of, 212 ; treaties of, 327, 345. 

Indian War, first blood shed, 386. 

Ingraham, Joseph, 130. 

Irish words, 310; anecdote of, 311. 

Isaac Todd, ship, 228. 

Isla de Dolores, 125. 

Islands— Pine, 27 ; Long, 27 ; Round, 28 ; 
Destruction, 125 ; other islands, 394. 

Jackson, Captain, 64. 

Jargon, 316. 

Jenny, brig, of Bristol, 129. 

Jesuits, 236. 

Jewett's, John R., narrative, 307. 

Joe, the steward, 43 ; runs away from the 

small-pox, 56. 
John, an Indian doctor, 183. 
John Adams, sloop of war, 228. 
Johnson, Captain James, 239, 296. 
Johnson, Dr. J. R., 319, 364. 
Johnson's Lake, 246. 
Judges of the U. S. District Court, 401. 
Junk, Chinese, at Clatsop, 206. 
Jury duty at Chenook, 293. 

Kaithlawilnu, an Indian, 151. 

Kape, a Queniult chief, 78 ; visit his lodge, 

264. 
Keith, superintendent of the Northwest 

Company, 232. 
Kellar, Captain J. P., 399. 
Kellogg, Dr., of San Francisco, 178. 
Kendrick, Captain John, 130. 
Klickatat Indians, 323. 
Kohpoh, an Indian, 320, 322. 

Lake, Captain William, 242. 
Lamley's, Job, trial at Chenook, 294. 
Lancaster, Honorable Columbia, 400. 
Lane, General Joseph, 390. 
Language of Indians, 306, 316 ; other lan- 
guages, 312. 
Lark, ship, 227. 
Laroque, M., 227. 
Leadbetter Point, 21. 
Leonard and Green, 238. 
Lewis and Clarke, 156, 160, 210, 406. 
Lime-kiln, 291. 
Long Island, 27, 248. 

Louisiana, great age of antiquities of, 207, 
Lyell, Sir Charles, 207. 
Lynde, Walter, 25, 68. 

Mahar, an Indian doctor, 185. 
Maquilla, an Indian chief, 213. 
Marhoo River, 26. 
Marshall, Stephen, 25, 358. 
Martindill, William, 298. 
Martyr's Point, 125. 
Mary Taylor, schooner, 283. 
Mason, Charles H., Secretary of the Ter- 
ritory, 389. 



434 



INDEX. 



Mat manufacture, 161. 

Maury, Lieutenant, 403. 

M'Carty, William, 102, 293, 366. 

M'Glellan, Captain George B., 399. 

M'Tavish, 230. 

Meares, Lieutenant John, 20, 126, 307. 

Medicine and medicine-men, 34, 176, 177, 

179. 
Memelose Tillicums, or dead people, 147. 
Mendell, Lieutenant, 238. 
Method of coloring roots and grass, 164. 
Military road from Astoria, 238 ; from 

Walla Walla, 399. 
Milward, Richard J., 25. 
Mischin or Louse Rocks, 175. 
Missionaries, 194. 
Mississippi River, great age of antiquities 

o^ 207. 
Monroe, James, Secretary of State, 231. 
Morgan, John, 25. 

Morton's, Dr., views of aborigines, 209. 
Mountains, 393, 395, 
Mount St. Helen's, 108. 
Mummy of an Indian, 73. 
Munchausen tales of old sailors, 220. 

Names, meaning of, 189; of tribes, 210. 

Narkarty, a (Jhenook chief, his speech to 
the governor, 345. 

Nasal River, 26. 

Necomancliee or Nickomin River, 26, 

Needles for making mats, 162. 

Neefus and Tichenor, 219. 

Nemar River, 26. 

Nertchinsk, a Russian city, 404. 

Nets, description of, 104. 

Nez Perco Indians, 385. 

Nichols, Captain, 241. 

Niebuhr, B. L., views of origin of man- 
kind, 209. 

Nootka language compared with the Che- 
nook, 307. 

Northwest Company, 232. 

Nott and Gliddon's Types of Mankind, 207, 
311. 

Ontario, sloop of war, 231. 

Oregon winters, 65, 67. 

Orford, Port, 219. 

Oriental, brig, 17. 

Origin of Indian tribes, 203, 207; of man- 
kind, 204. 

Ornaments, 158. 

Ossinobia, 232. 

Otter, Sea, description of, 91. 

Owners of ship Columbia, 130. 

Oyster fishery, 50; statistics of oyster trade, 
63 ; noble conduct of oystermen, 66. 

Oysterville, 241. 

Pacific Fur Company, 228. 

Palmer, General, 387. 

Pales, brig, wreck of, 141. 

Palux or Copalux River, 26; scene on, 35; 

falls of, 42. 
Patkanim, an Indian, 396. 
Paulding, Mrs., 241. 
Peddler, brig, 228. 
PsBinaula, trip across, 247. 



Pepper coffee, 146. 

Peter, or Claclals, an Indian, 137, 149, 167, 

251, 318, 323. 
Peytona, steamer, 219. 
Pilcher, journey from Council Bluffs in 

1827, 233. 
Pine Island, 27. 
Pohks, an Indian fool, 265. 
Point George, 225. 
Point Greuville, 125, 260. 
Polypodium Falcatum, 178. 
Pope, Talbot and Co., saw-mills, 399. 
Port Orford, 219. 
Potato poultice, 179. ^ 

Prescott, note, 314. 
Preservation of bodies, 73. 
Printing-press, first established at Walla 

WaUa, 236. 
Provost, J. B., U. S. Commissioner, 2S1. 
Pumpkin lantern, 149. 
Punta de Martires, 125. 
Purrington, Captain James S., 49, 141, 322, 

325, 326. 

Quadra, Lieutenant Juan Francisco de la 

Bodega y, 124, 129. 
Queaquim, an Indian lad, 54; dies of 

small-pox, 57. 
Quenainar, or strong men, 151. 
Queniult Indians, 211 ; visit to Queniult, 

251. 
Querquelin or Mouse River, 74, 242. 
Quootshooi, an ogress, 203. 

Raccoon, sloop of war, 229 

Rain, 65. 

Red River, 232. 

Religion, 196. 

Return from Chenook, 114. 

Rivers tributary to the Columbia, 121, 394. 

Roberts, Robert, goes with me to Queniult, 

251. 
Roots eaten by Indians, 90. 
Rotan, F., 97. 
Round Island, 28. 
Roundtree, Dr., 253. 
Rubus spectablis, 47. 
Russell, Charles J. W., 17, 25, 33, 144, 284. 
Russia, trade Avith China, 403. 

Sacodlye, an Indian doctor, 181. 
Sallal, or Gaultheria Shallon, 47, 87. 
Salmon-berry, Rubus spectablis, 47, 8T. 
Salmon fishing, 36, 103, 135. 
Salmon hook, description of, 264 
Salve, Indian method of making, 180. 
San Francisco, 215. 
San Roque River, 20. 

Scarborough, Captain James, 101, 298,383. 
Schoolcraft, H. R., 152, 171. 
Schools at Walla Walla, 236. 
Schooner Elsie, 282. 
Schooner Northwest America, 163. 
Sea-gull, steamer, 219. 
Seal-fishery, 83. 
Sea-otter, description of, 91. 
Semple, Governor, of Ossinobia, 232. 
Settlers in Shoal -water Bay, 25; first on 
the Columbia, 235. 



INDEX. 



435 



Shaw, Colonel B. F., 809. 

Sheriflf, Commodore, 232. 

Bhoal-water Bay, 20, 25, 30, 211, 250 

Shoal-water, Cape, 20. 

Sickness of author at Queniult, 265. 

Simmons, Colonel Mike, Indian agent, 250 
396. 

Skulls, superstition about, 214. 

Slavery among Indians, 166, 344. 

Small -pox, 55. 

Smith, captain of schooner Maryland, 215. 

Smith, captain of ship Albatifoss, 223. 

Smith, Fiddler, 239, 364 

Snohomish River, 395. 

Snoqualmie Falls, 895. 

Songs, 201. 

Sonora, schooner, attack of, 125. 

Sowles, captain of ship Beaver, 224. 

Squier, remarks on language, 310. 

Squintoo, 266. 

Squintum, or old George, an Indian, 320. 

Stevens, Colonel Henry K., 135, 242, 369. 

Stevens, Governor, 309, 367, 883, 398. 

Stewart, Charles, 64. 

St. John, Augustus E., 25. 

Stony Point, 68. 

Storm, 143. 

Strawberry frolic, 249. 

Strong, Judge, 396. 

Sturgeon fis-liing, 245. 

Sturgis, Captain William, list of Fur-trad- 
ers on the Northwest Coast, 423, 

Suis, an Indian squaw, 33, 146, 151, 181. 

Superstition, 42, 212, 214. 

Swan, Doctor, 230. 

Swing, Indian children's, 198. 

Tappan, William B., Indian agent, 32T. 

Tarlilt River, 26. 

Thome, captain of ship Tonquin, 228. 

Tichenor, Captain, 219. 

Tide — liigh tide and great storm, 142. 

Timber growth in Washington Territory, 

398. 
Tleyuk, a ChehaUs chief, 251, 847, 363. 
Toke, a Shoal-water Bay Indian, 83, 74, 

247, 328, 360. 
Tomanawos, 146, 173, 175, 246. 
Tomhays or Cartumhays, 36, 57, 319. 
Tongue Point, 22'5, 
Tonquin, ship, 224 ; massacre of her crew, 

226. 
Tower of Babel, 312. 



Traditions, 68. 

Treaties — with England, 231 ; of Ghent, 

230 ; with Indians, 327, 343-350. 
Trees, immense growth of, 53. 
Trial of Bo^v^nan, 280 ; of Joe, 281. 
Tribes, names of, 210. 
Trout-fishing, 139. 
Tufts, William, Esq., remarks on climate, 

406 ; list of vessels. Appendix. 

Uncle Ned, one of the Bruce Company of 

Shoal-water Bay, 283. 
United States District Court at Chenook, 



Vail, Captain John, 43, 244. 

Vancleave, 136. 

Vancouver, Captain George, 23, 127, 129, 

213. 
Venison pie, aversion of Indians to, 213. 
View from the ocean, 276. 
Villages, deserted, 212. 
Virgin Mary seen by an Indian lad, 236. 

Wagon road fi:om Fort Kearney, 403. 

Walla Walla settlement, 236. 

Wamalsh, a Queniult Indian, 79, 266. 

Wappalooche or Chenook River, 243. 

Wappatoo Island, 124, 234. 

Washington, sloop, 131. 

Washington Territory, 382, 392. 

Weeks, Cale, of Astoria, 165. 

Weldon, Captain David K., 64, 364. 

Weston, Judge, of Chenook, 366. 

Whil-a-pah River, 25. 

Whitcomb, Henry, 64. 

WUd-fowl, 143. 

Wilkes, 206. 

Willamet Valley, 237. 

Willemantic, schooner, wreck of, 43, 275. 

Wilson, James, 64. 

Winant, Mark, 25, 283. 

Winant, Samuel, 251, 283. 

Woodward, Samuel, 64. 

Woodward, Samuel, senior, 113. 

Wool, General, 388. 

Wreck — nearly wrecked, 216. 

Wreck of steamer General Warren, 259. 

Wyeth, Captain Nathaniel, 234. 

Wy Yellock, a Queniult Indian, 79. 

Yancumux, a Chenook Indian, 113; his 
disbelief in God, 295. 



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